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3D cameras

Hakon Soreide , Jan 03, 2007; 08:02 p.m.

I have started looking into the fascinating field og stereo photography, and although the result to be gleaned from two separate shots taken with a single camera moved to the side has its uses, it also has its obvious limitations, and so I've started doing some searches of what is out there.

I have had a glance at Loreo's 3D lens-in-a-cap which might fit my EOS 350D well, but I fear that the image quality of it might make me cringe. I have looked a bit, but have so far only seen a few sample images, and I haven't been impressed by what I've seen. Fixed focus, two aperture settings, and dubious optical qualities. It might be okay for small sizes, of course.

Has anyone tried 3D-world's tri-lens reflex medium format camera? It definitely looks like it means business and with serious lenses. When it comes to medium format, I am a bit spoiled by the razor-sharp images from my Mamiya 7, and so I fear I might get very picky about image quality if I got another medium format camera, and thus I'd like to hear more about that camera before buying.

Of course, I've also seen someone making a stereo Mamiya 7 II. Now that's a 3D camera for big boys, and it looks great too. If only I could afford that...


Stereo Mamiya 7II. I wonder what my girlfriend would say if I told her I'd spent $4.000 on something like that...

Responses


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Hakon Soreide , Jan 03, 2007; 08:06 p.m.

Mark U , Jan 04, 2007; 05:02 a.m.

More 3D stuff here:

http://www.stereoscopy.com/

Randall Ellis , Jan 04, 2007; 08:13 a.m.

You might also try the photo-3d (mainly digital stereo) and film3d Yahoo! groups, as well as the National Stereoscopic Association (http://www.stereoview.org/) and the Stereo Division of the PSA (http://www.psa-stereo.org/)

- Randy

Randall Ellis , Jan 04, 2007; 08:15 a.m.

Lastly,

Check out a Stereo Realist. They are 35mm, but the quality is much greater than that of the Loreo products. I have the lens in a a cap (along with many other stereo cameras), and it works failry well, but it is limited to f/11 and f/22, which can be a problem in some settings.

- Randy

Christopher Gervais , Jan 04, 2007; 08:38 a.m.

If you are a tinkerer this may be of interest.

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l2084.html

Patrick Dempsey , Jan 06, 2007; 12:13 a.m.

Take two brownies... tape them together... viola, instant authentic old-school stereo camera.

Robert Budding , Jan 06, 2007; 07:26 a.m.

Or you could use a camera that you already own with an inexpensive slide bar:

http://home.att.net/~drt-3d/toys/bogen/index.htm

Ken Jeanette , Jan 08, 2007; 04:17 p.m.

Thank you for the posting, nice to see someone else getting into stereo. I have been interested in Stereo photography since my first go round with a used David White and mounted slides. The image depth just floors me. I am currently setting up a digital solution using a "slide bar" actually a parallelogram unit with a single p&s digital. I intend to make Holmes cards using a free program called "Callipygian 3D" That tri lens medium format unit must weigh 100 pounds!!

Hakon Soreide , Jan 09, 2007; 04:24 p.m.

Thanks for the responses, although no one actually answered my original question, it's been food for thought along the way as I've kept reading up on possibilities. I think I'll see what I can do with the camera I have first of all, add a slide bar into the mix and see where that gets me.

Also, with some calculations, I found that getting that tri-lens medium format camera will actually cost me about the same as getting a second EOS 350D, two 50mm f1.8 lenses, a release that triggers both cameras at the same time as well as a tripod mount to mount both of them at the same time - and it would all weigh in at about the same as the 3D camera as well, and leave the option for varying the interocular distance for those more distant objects.

I'd also have a backup camera for when and if my first 350D should start to falter. It simply makes more sense to go that road. I am more likely, as well, to focus most of my stereo photography on inanimate objects, and so a sliding bar might cover 90-95% of most shooting situations. Some initial tests also show that I can get by rather well handheld and shifting my position too, although some adjustment, rotating and cropping might be needed later.

I'm looking forward to playing around with 3D a lot more, and see what I can make from it. I also devised a way to make 3D digital paintings that I'll be working more on in the future. Great fun! =)


Two Good Friends (cross-eyed viewing)

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