Dustin Aldridge , Jan 29, 2001; 11:02 p.m.
This year I got the bug to mount and frame. I print my prints on an
Epson 1270 typically on Premium Glossy. I think it looks better than
the Matte Heavyweight even under glass.
Anyway, cut to the chase... Has anyone dry mounted the Epson Premium
Glossy printed on a 1270, and how are the prints holding up color wise
after dry mounting?
I'm basically getting annoyed at the slight bow in larger prints and
am on the verge of buying a Seal dry mount press. I have a feeling
that come the humidity of Maryland in the summer, the warp of the
prints is only going to get worse.
I'm not really interested in wet or tacky mounting. I'll settle on
dry mounting the Matte Heavyweight as a last resort.
Norman Koren , Jan 30, 2001; 10:15 a.m.
I've received recommendations against dry mounting, so I've never tried it. I've had good success mounting prints inside overmats using archival tape. My technique (with illustration) is near the bottom of my page,
http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints3.html
You might also check http://www.inkjetart.com, which has detailed information on inkjet printing. E-mail Royce Bair (follow the FREE advice link) and post his answer here if you don't find anything on dry mounting.
Dan Smith
, Jan 30, 2001; 11:05 a.m.
Before mounting or matting, find out the Ph of the paper you are using. Many of the papers used in inkjet printing are acidic and when mounting and matting, putting them next to buffered board will shorten the life of the print.
Scotch PMA (Positionable Mounting Adhesive) works well for inkjet prints. You might try static mounting, as is done with Ilfochromes and Fuji supergloss prints, and see if it works for you. It is a nice, inert, completely reversable method for mounting. I haven't tried it with inkjet prints, so you will be experimenting, but if it works it will solve a lot of problems with prints rippling with changes in heat and humidity.
Geoff Meadowcroft , Jan 30, 2001; 11:22 a.m.
Dustin, I haven't tried the specific paper/ink combination you mention, but I tried to dry mount some Epson papers printed with Lyson archival inks, and they changed color dramatically!
Do some tests before you shell out for the Seal press!
Geoff
Dustin Aldridge , Jan 30, 2001; 01:11 p.m.
Thanks for the replies so far. Some follow up clarifications....
Currently I am archival hanging the prints behind double mats. This works decently up to 8x10, but there is still a slight bow in prints. Larger prints only magnify the problem. One 11x17 I did has nearly a double mat size bow in the middle.
Although I could test the Epson Premium Glossy by taking it to the local frame shop and having them dry mount the print, I feel that this would only be one data point and may indicate other dry mounting problems like temperature/time etc. not related to this paper/ink combo.
With the amount of epson 1270 users out there, there has to be someone out there that has already experimented extensively with dry mounting the Epson Premium Glossy.
Godfrey DiGiorgi , Jan 30, 2001; 11:52 p.m.
I never liked subjecting any color dyes to heat and pressure, the Epson Premium Glossy paper has had a rough enough time with the 1270 inks and color shifting/fading as well.
Why not use a pressure sensitive, no heat mounting adhesive? I did all my prints with this stuff ages ago. I haven't mounted anything for years so I can't remember what it's called but it was made by 3M. Just cut a sheet to the dimensions required, rub it onto the print, pull the second wax sheet and use an overlay wax sheet to rub it onto the mount board. Done, do the same thing with your matte overlay.
no heat, no damage.
godfrey
Harry Pluta , Jan 31, 2001; 02:45 p.m.
Dustin,
I sold my Seal after moving from fiber B&W prints to 1270 prints, I tried mounting several and had varied results from poor to really bad. The inks seem to breakdown quickly when heat is applied, they discolored/faded within weeks of mounting.
I like to leave a bit of backing exposed between my print and the matting so on my larger work I am now using the sheets of adheasive that Godfrey mentioned and the prints I've done seem to be holding up well. Anything in 8x10 or smaller I am using a single strip of adheasive across the top and allowing them to drape down. So far I haven't had a curl problem, but if I do I will go to full sheets of adheasive.
-harry
Patricia Lee , Jan 31, 2001; 06:20 p.m.
Has anyone tried using Twin-Tac double-sided adhesive sheets? I just mounted some small inkjet prints on foam board using Twin-Tac. I have no idea if it will contribute to fading or color shift or other horrible things, but I guess time will tell.
Anyway, Twin-Tac requires no heat or special equipment, just careful application technique.
Craig Andrew Yuill , Feb 02, 2001; 01:42 a.m.
About 15 years ago I tried using Falcon(?) double-sided-adhesive sheets. The Cibachrome (now Ilfochrome) prints that I stuck onto them look fine. It is possible, however, that the corners will eventually lift up. The prints I've kept for myself here in Vancouver haven't had that problem, but prints I've given to a friend in Chicago, which has higher temperature and humidity in the summer, did seem to come a bit loose.
Dustin Aldridge , Feb 06, 2001; 11:58 p.m.
Well, I decided against the Seal dry mount press based on everyone's recommendations. I bought a roll of 3M Positionable Mounting Adhesive and have been pulling my prints off the wall and remounting them. It works excellent. I was very concerned about using the plastic burnisher with the adhesive, but it doesn't leave any marks on the prints when used with the release paper.
Time will tell as to how well the adhesive will last. I'm sure it will last longer that the color balance of the 1270 prints.
To anyone who is still using a spray adhesive. Drop it and try the PMA adhesive.
Jim Zipp , Feb 13, 2001; 08:18 a.m.
Does anyone know if the same problems occur when dry mounting Epson 2000P printer generated prints?
Hank Greenfield , Dec 01, 2002; 09:10 a.m.
I have been mounting photo's for over 30 years. Often with a hot mount press but also with the 3m photo adhesive sheets.
Both will seperate and fall apart with time. The more humidity that's present, the quicker the process.
Needles to say I haven't used a hot mount press in may years. I have done a lot of Cibachrome printing and it just won't stand up to the heat. THat lead me to the 3m product and it does work well, but expect it to seperate eventually no matter what grade mounting board is used (of course it could take 20 years).
Now, I'm using acid free tape to hang my photo's on a back board and then cover them with the overmount. I use acide free everything but I don't go crazy with the archieval products. I'm not charging enough for the finished print.
I'm using an Epson 1280 with Luminos dye inks but will soon switch to pigment inks. I have just started using Ilford paper and it works very well. The finished product from the pearl finish Galleria classic is great.
Hope this helps.
Hank Greenfield