Rock Concert Photography

Manual mode, ISO 3200, F/4 and as fast of a shutter speed you can get. I doubt you'll get sharp photos with that slow a lens. "Amateur" concert venues usually have poor lightning.

Get your metering straightened out on the bands playing earlier. Better to use high ISO and get a little noise than to get camera shake or subject movement. Shoot RAW to improve your ability to rescue blown highlights and screwy white balance.

You can shoot full auto but you may find that you'll get blown highlights on the performers faces & hair, etc as usually its a bright face & hair surrounded by a dark background--so it's likely that if you were shooting full auto, you might need some negative exposure compensation. You could also try partial metering.

What I would do instead is shoot manual and chimp the histogram to get the exposure right, then leave it alone. From shot to shot the light probably isn't changing much. You want the highlights near the right side of the histogram but be careful or some channels will clip.

Dominique, I'd recommend getting either a faster zoom or a couple of really fast primes. Probably not by Sunday, but for next time?

Max.. I'll just add that at amateur venues, along with the lightning you described, you can get some pretty good thunder!!

Dominique, there are several useful tutorials on concert photography on the web, including one right here on photo.net. Just Google "concert photography", and you will see several choices.

The 24-105/4L is a fine lens, but isn't one that I would use by itself to cover a concert because of its slow aperture. For tighter shots that freeze the action, I would opt for a prime lens with a maximum aperture of f2 or better, with the focal length determined by how close to the performers you are allowed to get,.

The less expensive ones include Canon's 50/1.8 or 1.4, 85/1.8, and 100/2. For more money the 85/1.2L and 135/2L do a great job. The ultimate is the 200/2L, but it's quite specialized and expensive.

Zooms or primes with a maximum aperture of f2.8 can give good results, but to achieve the same shutter speed you have to double the ISO from f2 which results in more noise.

Here's one of Trombone Shorty at the Island Musicfest last summer, shot RAW at f2 and 1600 ISO.

http://www.brentreid.exposuremanager.com/p/musicfest_2009/img_7267_16_3

How about a flash?

"Amateur" concert venues usually have SHIT lightning.

I assume the poster refers to Slims in San Francisco.

First of all, Slims is not "amateur." It's one of the premier venues in San Francisco for non-arena shows, although it does feature a lot of local and up-and-coming bands. Slims is owned by a group lead by Boz Scaggs, they also own The Great American Music Hall, a much better place for shooting. Learn about something before spewing about it. What you have said is an insult.

For the original poster:

Slims lighting isn't good enough unless you're using flash because of the light placement. The house lighting is in the wrong place for photography although it's good for the audience. If they are running smoke machines, you will get better results, but you will still need flash. Shoot at 400, manual mode at f4 and 1/125 - 1/250 if you are shooting from below the stage. Set the flash at around -1/2EV. Also, make sure you set the flash to use the focus beam, this will help a lot. Make sure your son gets you a backstage pass, then you can shoot on-stage. Shoot in the front, stage left, and you won't have to get in anyone's way. From on-stage, you may want to drop the shutter speed to get more of the crowd in your shots. Also, they should have a room backstage (downstairs) and they are fun for band shots. A bit cramped, but fun. Bounce the flash off the ceiling when you're downstairs.

You can shoot without flash, but a) it takes a lot of experience to know how to get what you want, and b) you need faster lenses.

FWIW, I've shot a lot at Slims. I've tried it without flash and most of the time the results are pretty meh. I do shoot with primes, but that's mostly because they focus faster. I don't see that anyone else posting here has shot there, which explains why they think you'll do fine without flash. Slims has no restrictions on flash, but you may want to mention it ahead of time at the door.

Typical Slims shot, with flash:

Perfect Machines, Copyright 2009 Jeff Spirer

Do you mean “Slim's” - San Francisco, of Boz Scaggs Fame (I think)?

I would not assume that their lighting rig is "amateur" . . . so I had a look for myself:

46x PAR 64 / 500W; 18x PAR 64 / 750W; and a Marc 350 Follow-spot is the base kit.

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If shooting without flash, and you want the most automatic performance with the best likely outcome of keepers with the gear mentioned:

Select Av (Aperture Priority) MODE

Select Av = F/4

Select ISO1600

Select centre point Spot Metering

Select centre Point AF

Select the function that holds the Auto Exposure and the Auto Focus with the shutter half depressed.

Functions:

Zoom the desired framing.

Focus and get Exposure on the FACE of the artist. (centre of frame)

Hold the shutter button half depressed.

Then reframe the shot (do not re-zoom)

Expose.

Attempt to time your shots such that there is minimal Subject Movement

Important: Note the Tv (Shutter speed) you are typically getting – if it is about 1/125s or below – then move to ISO3200.

As mentioned you will get an idea of the Tv, by practicing on the earlier performers.

If you use my method - it is very important that you first frame the shot with the centre of the viewfinder on the face of the main subject and half depress the shutter to make the exposure reading (and focus) and then the camera will set the Tv automatically.

You must keep the shutter half depressed whilst you frame the shot the way you want it – half depressing the shutter holds that exposure reading (and Focus) for you, until you depress the shutter completely.

You should check this functionality before you head out on Sunday.

WW

Ah!
I read and responded to the post before Jeff Spirer had posted.
Even though my post entered after his - it seems I am slower at typing.
Although I have never even been to San F. – many of us who like music know of "Slim's" - here too . . . and I am miles away.

To the OP:

You should defer to someone who has worked the club - if it is Slims SF.

If it is Slims SF – then it appears flash is the go and all the other tips mentioned . . . but I choose to let my post stand: as it is still the best method, IMO, "If shooting without flash, and you want the most automatic performance with the best likely outcome of keepers with the gear mentioned"

WW

[quote]I assume the poster refers to Slims in San Francisco.
First of all, Slims is not "amateur." It's one of the premier venues in San Francisco for non-arena shows, although it does feature a lot of local and up-and-coming bands. Slims is owned by a group lead by Boz Scaggs, they also own The Great American Music Hall, a much better place for shooting. Learn about something before spewing about it. What you have said is an insult.[/quote]
I do not know what "slims" is. I generally assumed that it was what I call an amateur venue, and amateur venues here in Finland (where I live) have lightning so bad that you just want to give up shooting and go home. I was just trying to help the first poster by not expecting the best. I always prepare for the worst if I do not know the venue. Sheez.

Yeah, I agree--Slims is a midsize venue in San Francisco--I've not personally shot there yet, but chances are good that I will later this year. The good news is that it doesn't have a pit (I HATE PITS). It can seem quite intimate when you are up front, but is actually a pretty large venue. It also has good lighting from what I can remember from the shows I've seen there.

Anyway, Dominique--I agree with what may others have said. I shoot concerts in SF using my 5D and (so far) only my trusty 50mm f/1.8. This has only been a problem at shows with an evil pit that is far from the stage (ahem Regency Ballroom)--but that isn't due to lighting issues, that's just me being so far away from the talent & without a telephoto. I would not shoot a concert indoors or at night without at LEAST f/1.8, and ideally f/1.4. I don't even own a flash so I always shoot without one, and I've actually gotten some really great shots while shooting at The Independent in almost complete darkness. Your camera certainly has the sensor to handle this, but your lens currently does not. I HIGHLY recommend renting or buying a lens with f/1.8 or f/1.4 capabilities, otherwise you probably will be disappointed with what you get. I shoot on aperture priority by default, as well, and ISO 1600 (as high as my 5D will go--yours probably goes higher). I also usually end up setting my white balance to Tungsten, though you can play with that because I haven't gotten to shoot at Slim's yet and they might have a different palette than what I usually find at the venues I frequent.

Also, I know you're nervous, but try not to be! Have fun! As my editor says, all you need is one good shot. Take a ton and get into a groove--relax--and have fun :D

A bit OT, but have any of you Bay Area photogs shot at the Fox Theater in Oakland?

I saw a guy working near the stage with a 70-200/2.8 at the Of Montreal concert in July. Nice venue, but the lighting there looked pretty challenging.

"I shoot on aperture priority by default, as well, and ISO 1600 (as high as my 5D will go--yours probably goes higher)."

FYI:

The (your) EOS 5D has "ISO expansion".

Selectable under Custom Function 8. Selecting "H" will give an effective ISO 3200 on the 5D.

There is academic argument that this is not a "Real ISO" - but for practical purposes it can be very useful for your concert work, if the exposure is nailed correctly. (See example below) - And link here (double click for large / detail) : http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=9567764&size=md

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To the OP:

The 5DMkII has a native ISO to 6400 and that can be extended to ISO12800 and ISO25600, via a similar custom function process.

I suggested beginning at ISO1600 @ F/4, because I roughly evaluated the power of those lighting banks on ¾ power and using the Follow Spot, Full. Obviously this calc was without knowing exact stage distances, etc - so it was a real "guess".

In your case, and if working without Flash, I would not hesitate to push the 5DMkII to ISO12800 or ISO25600, if necessary.

The critical point about using these very high ISO is to nail the exposure, lest you deal with bad noise and muddy midrange contrasts, later.

Also – (again speaking mainly about No Flash) – I use Primes for the lens speed. The example below is Stage Lighting and the 85mm is wide open at F/1.8 and I could only get to Tv = 1/80s and you’ll note some subject movement in the hands and feet – that shot is at ISO3200 on a 5D.

But as a general thought - an addition of a Prime Lens, or two, will be of benefit if this is the type of Photography you might wish to pursue – anyway IMO Prime lenses have many other uses too.

WW

Brent--I've never shot at the Fox, but a lot of the photos I've seen from there seemed to have been taken from the side wings of the stage, etc rather than in a pit. Not sure what the deal is exactly. I imagine its a bit harder to shoot than a small venue where you are right up against the band, but no worse than the Regency Ballroom...

...it is really gorgeous inside, and I hope to shoot there someday. I was supposed to get a pass for Arctic Monkeys but it fell through at the last minute.