A Site for Photographers by Photographers

Featured Equipment Deals

King Sized Portrait Lighting: Going Big Read More

King Sized Portrait Lighting: Going Big

Pro portrait photographer and Craftsy instructor, Kirk Tuck, shares his very favorite way to light a portrait.

Latest Equipment Articles

Tamron's redefined SP lenses - a first Look at the SP 35/1.8 and SP 45/1.8 Read More

Tamron's redefined SP lenses - a first Look at the SP 35/1.8 and SP 45/1.8

Earlier today (09/02/2015) Tamron released details of the first two lenses in their newly redefined "SP" line (see http://www.tamron-usa.com/news/35mm/35_F012_45_F013_2015.php). These lenses are...

Latest Learning Articles

The September Monthly Project Read More

The September Monthly Project

This month's project with guest instructor Jackie DiBenedetto focuses on challenges - and joys! - of photographing kids. Add your best photo to the thread and enjoy the conversation!


Lith film developing

Eric Chamberlain , May 27, 2003; 10:56 p.m.

I have a question that I hope can be resolved quickly, though I know better than to start holding my breath. I'm trying to develop the arista lith film in the arista lith developer, 1:1 ratio of a:b. Here's the problem, and I can't figure it out, much less guess. I expose the film for 4 seconds under a contact print light source, and put it in the developer. Within 3 seconds the emulsion lightens in color so dramatically, I originally thought I was looking at the bottom of the tray, but its opaque still, then after some time, I move it to the stop bath because the latent image doesn't appear within 30 secs. And at that moment in the stop bath the latent image appears, as if I stuck it into an actual developer. However the background field that should come out opaque (the artwork is line art on a transparency), isn't and actually starts to become transparent. can somebody help? Thanks, Eric

Responses

Chris Waller , May 28, 2003; 05:07 a.m.

I don't know Arista materials but I have used Kodak Ortholith in Champion Novolith. Have you determined the exposure time by the usual method of a test strip? In the case of Ortholith, after immersing the film in the dev and agitating nothing happens for some time. Then suddenly the image starts to form. It develops by infectious development and happens very rapidly. Perhasp you put it in the stop just as the image was forming. I dev for 2.25 minutes. After that stop and fix. In the case of Ortholith the antihalation backing clears in the fix. But perhaps with Arista the antihalation backing dissolves away or clears in the dev.

Stuart Todd , May 28, 2003; 07:44 p.m.

As a user of both Fotospeed and Maco lith products, I've found that developing lith film takes alot of time, I'm normally hunched over the developer tray for 5-8 minutes chasing the film around with my tongs before I'm happy with the image I get. Both films also change colour very quickly once placed in the developer bath (an orange-pink colour). Also both films background's go transparant in the fix and would assume just like normal film your lith film too would go clear in the fix as well.

Stu :)

donald miller , May 31, 2003; 07:26 p.m.

I have used the Aristo Halftone ortholith film. When using it to make masks, I will normally expose for 18-24 seconds at F16 under my enlarger. I will then develop it in dilute Dektol for 2 1/2 -3 1/2 minutes (depending on the mask application). I have used A-B developer as well. But the development times did not vary to any great degree from those with Dektol. The high density areas become apparent in developer and then clear in the fixer.

Back to top

Notify me of Responses