Recomendations

It's amazing how two people can reach polar opposite conclusions about a manufacturer and products. In 35mm I expose TMY-2 almost exclusively because I've concluded it is a great film for my uses and is provided by a manufacturer who made the commitment of time and resources to improve an already good film. D76 @ 1:1 continues to be my developer of choice followed by Kodak indicator stop, Kodafix and PermaWash. While Kodak has certinly fallen on hard times I believe TMY-2 proves they haven't forgotten us, in my opinion.

Black and White TMax 100 is my primary choice of film for 35mm. I think it's a fine film to use.

I usually use Kodak's TMAX developer, but I'm trying out D76 to see if there's much of a visual difference. I haven't done enough rolls yet to decide on this.

I recently shot a roll of TriX by accident (while thinking it was TMAX400), and while I like the smoothness it displays I no longer am interested in all the grain I see with it. Of course too would depend on the subject.

I also Agree with TMY2 or Tri-X. Love it while ya can and I think it will be a real long time.

I use mostly Ilford FP4+ and Kodak HC110, Indicator Stop and Kodafix. If I were to use Kodak film it would be PlusX. I will use Ilford and Kodak until forced into something else, I think both companies are doing their best to keep things afloat and Kodak has recently made some improvements to their film so I can't really agree with your position that Kodak has not shown support. In any case enjoy your work and whatever great materials are out there.

I shoot Ilford FP4, HP5 and Delta 100, but also occasionally Kodak TMX, Fuji Acros and Agfa APX100. Of all the films I use, FP4 is far and away my favourite. Film chemistry is: Rodinal developer, Kodak Indicating Stop, Ilford Hypam/Rapid fixer. I wash using the Ilford Method and then give a final rinse in water plus wetting agent (either Paterson Acuwet or Tetenal Mirasol). Print chemistry is Ilford PQ Universal dev, Kodak Stop again and Ilford Hypam/Rapid fixer.

While I shoot predominantly medium format, I use Fuji Acros 100 (both 120 and 35mm), either D-76, HC-110 or sometimes Rodinal (depending on various factors), and various fixers.

I have not been able to discern any difference in fixers but generally favor rapid fixers (w/o hardeners) and those I can mix from liquid concentrate. I also like to use, but don't do so consistently, ammonium thiosulfate based fixers. I usually mix my own in that case (e.g., TF-3).

I use a water stop. With slow speed films like Acros and dilute developer solutions (which is what I typically use), developing action is slow such that an acid stop bath is not really needed.

Thanks to all who have responded.

Please don’t misunderstand me I never said Kodak makes a bad product, its an availability problem. Its getting harder to get the chemicals I need from a company that’s located close by.
I will have to order from a company like B&h and even they wont send by mail things like stop bath in a Kodak brand.(but will in an Ilford brand) Any ideas on photo lab for B/W prints, until I can set up a dark room again

HC 110 Dilution H is my favorite along with Rodinal mostly at 1-50 and 1-100 but I can extend it to 1-300 at times.

Freestyle photo will ship many chemicals that B+H won't ship and they have pretty good prices as well. Their arista premium 400 and 100 is rebranded Tri-x and Plus X for much cheaper. I'm currently using their Legacy Pro 100 and 400 film, which is repackaged Neopan Acros and Neopan 400, which have become my favorite films.

I really like their arista premium/Clayton odorless liquid fixer. I use Rodinal and Xtol as my developers at the moment, use a water stop bath, and don't bother with a wash-aid other than photo-flo.