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Delta 400 @ 250 with Rodinal

Bruno Morez , Feb 20, 2010; 12:41 p.m.

Hey all,
I got my hands on some Rodinal (R09 One shot, same chemical, different manufacturer, Rodinal is not available in Belgium anymore) and I've been trying it in combination with Tri-x 400.
With normal dev times it produces ok results imo, but nothing spectacular.
Now, on these boards I came across stand development, so I gave it a try. Tri-x at 400 gives good results but with the tri-x film rated at 250 things become interesting.
Here's tri-x rated at 250, developed in Rodinal 1:200 for 2 hours. I agitated continuously (reversing) for 1 minute in the beginning, and did one more gentle agitation after an hour. The rest was stand. Temperature was about 21-22°C (hard to control).
First picture is my dad, pretty bad focusing but it was only meant as a test roll anyway (f1.8 or there about, shitty scan I know)

The second picture is a bridge near where I live.

Both pictures taken with a Nikon FE2 with a standard 50 mm lens.

Is it possible to acquire similar tonality using Delta 400 and Rodinal with a stand dev procedure? Difference in grain isn't a big deal, but I really like the tonality I'm getting here.

Responses


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Russ Rosener , Feb 20, 2010; 05:49 p.m.

I'd stick with Tri-X in Rodinal type developers. Delta 400 is a very different animal, and can go flat during long developments or in Rodinal. D-76 type developers work best with new tech films like Ilford Delta and Kodak TMAX.

Erwin Baeyens , Feb 20, 2010; 07:06 p.m.

Bruno,
I don't know who told you that you can't get rodinal in Belgium anymore. I'm sure that there's a few stores in Brussels that you can get it from. Aliphoto near the place Rouppe still has some that I know of.
Otherwise you can always order it from Fotoimpex in Berlin. I ordered some stuff there last week on Sunday and it was delivered on Tuesday. If your order is over 100€ they give free shipping.
As Delta 400 isa t-rain film I'd shoot it at 400 as with pulling it it tends to get a bit flat.

Erwin

peter carter , Feb 20, 2010; 07:19 p.m.

Rodinal can develop anything, period. People not getting the results they want ether don't know how or just don't care.

Stand developing gives the smoothest possible grain, but lowest contrast. That is how it is supposed to work. To give it an accelerated boost (more contrast) after the developer is drained from the tank, a borax bath (6 gr to 1 ltr of distilled water) for about 5-10 minutes. This reactivates some developer left behind in the emulsion. Stop and fix as normal.

Chris Waller , Feb 21, 2010; 04:50 a.m.

I've used Rodinal with Delta 400 and got excellent results: good tonality, crisp grain and sharpness. I'm not convinced that stand development is they way to go. I rated Delta 400 at 160 ASA and gave it 6 minutes in Rodinal at 1:50, 20C.

peter carter , Feb 21, 2010; 08:26 a.m.

Don't underestimate flickr.com as a research tool. Enter "delta 400 rodinal" or "delta 400 rodinal stand". Real world examples of what people actually achieve, and often the dilutions and time needed.

You should do the same for any film/developer combination you think of trying.

A lot of people have opinions but this will reveal the truth.

Bruno Morez , Feb 21, 2010; 02:24 p.m.

Thanks for the replies.
I developed in D76, because I didn't want to take any risks with the Rodinal, 1:1, 10 minutes @ 20 C, negs look pretty good to me.
Thanks for the flickr idea, hadn't thought of it!

Frank Schifano , Feb 21, 2010; 06:57 p.m.

I'm a bit more skeptical about using Flickr as a research tool. You have no idea of the scanner and more importantly the scanning software that was used. You can maybe get a rough idea. There are just too many variables thrown into the mix to come to a definitive conclusion.

peter carter , Feb 21, 2010; 08:15 p.m.

There is no guarantee I will make it across the street every time I try. I just do knowing that it is a reasonable conclusion. I would trust more of a visual sample than "because I said so". This is after all, a visual art.

Russ Rosener , Feb 21, 2010; 08:37 p.m.

All you can do is try it and experiment. If the results work for you then that's all that matters! There is plenty of hot air blowing around the internet photo forums. Bracket your stops and record the exposure so you can repeat what you like and avoid what does not work.


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