First time using SS reels

My advice is don't over-analyze the agitation, and don't think you need to follow any particular regimen. But you'll get a thousand different opinions on what is the correct way!

If you give it a quarter or a 2/3 turn, clockwise or counter-clockwise, etc. is neither here nor there, IMO. The only thing you are trying to do is to keep the developer in as uniform a state of dispersion as possible.

I also measure the developing solution so that the reel is covered by about ¼ inch. If you fill to the brim, then there's no space for it to slosh around properly. Same principle applies when shaking a cocktail! Main thing is that the film stays completely covered between agitations.

Thanks John - I didnt think it was it was correct to totally fill the tank.

As far as agitation, I guess the thing to do is, is to be consistent. As far as the patterson tanks are concerned Ive been doing everything the same to eliminate problems there. Other than slowing down the agitation a bit when using Rodinal that is.

1. Many make absolutes of variables because that is what works for them and it is what they were taught by good photographers.
2. Absolutes: The film must be fully covered by the developer to be developed properly. The film must be fixed to make it insensitive to light. The fixer must be washed out for the negative to last. Unprocessed film must be handled in total darkness.
3. When developing 1 roll of film in a 2 reel tank put the reel with the film on the bottom and a empty reel on top. Solution volume that covers the bottom reel only will leave the film out of the solution during the inversion. Solution volume that does not fill the tank completely lends to pin holes from air bubbles trapped on film. Tapping the tank after each inversion cycle helps dislodge the air bubbles but does not always eliminate them. Filling the tank and leaving no air space does work as well as leaving an air space as far as keeping fresh solution in direct contact with the film.
4. My agitation technique: fill the tank to the top, tap the tank to dislodge air bubbles then top off. Agitate for the first 30 seconds to 1 minute. Agitate for 10 seconds every 30 seconds for the remainder of the developing time. Keeping a finger on the cap I turn the tank upside down, pause 1/2 second, turn upright, pause 1/2 second, then repeat. At the end of 10 seconds I tap the tank 2 times on the work surface then rotate the tank clockwise 2 times the 1st inversion cycle then rotate it counterclockwise 2 times the 2nd. inversion cycle.
5. Adopt a fill and agitation technique and refine it for your equipment. Reel style, wire thickness, number of ribs, distance between the reel edge and the side of the tank all play a part in how a solution will flow inside the tank.

I've developed a few thousand rolls of 35mm on Japanese SS reels. For short developing times, a prewash is advisable. SS tanks can stand sharp raps to dislodge air bubbles. Do it. Some Japanese reels have spring clips to secure the end of the film on the reel. Unless the film is perfectly centered between the flanges, this can cause problems in loading. I remove the spring clips and bend the end of the film sharply to retain it in the core. Unlike the plastic caps, SS caps and tanks are not always interchangeable. Test the tank and cap for water tightness before using. If the tank leaks, a large wide rubber band around the junction of cap and tank works, but be careful not to lose the cap when inverting. As Charles said, keep your finter on the cap when inverting. Using only enough developer to cover one reel is fine, but do put the other reel above it. Learning to use SS reels is more difficult than learning on most plastic reels, but is worth it. I would never go back to plastic.

THanks Jim and Charles.

Yes, i would rap the tank to dislodge bubbles - this seemed to be a constant when I read up on using the ss reels. I havent tried inverting the tank with fluid in it as of yet, probably try that tonight since I left them at work to practice loading the film. I would have left the second reel inside the tank as well to keep the reel with the film loaded from moving around, that just made sense to me since I have no other way to keep it still while inverting the tank.

These ss reels do have a wire(?) clip that quite frankly seems to be part of my problem as far as getting the film started so maybe I could remove a clip from at least one of the reels just to try it out.

On a slightly off topic that Jim touched on - prewashing: Ive only done this once and I had spots on the film, probably from small bubbles that didnt get dislodged when I rapped the patterson tank - now the question I had on that issue is that prewash/presoak I just use water? Or would I also use drop or so of something like photoflo? I guess I need to give it some good hard raps on the counter next time.

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

These ss reels do have a wire(?) clip that quite frankly seems to be part of my problem as far as getting the film started so maybe I could remove a clip from at least one of the reels just to try it out.

The best trick to getting the film to start properly is to cut the end of the film square. Aligning on sprocket hole edges helps. Using a film leader retriever and pulling the leader out then cutting flush with the cassette edge is another. Crease the lead edge of the film to mark the center and align the center crease with the center of the clip. The crease only needs to be 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the film. Keep equal pressure on the sides of the film when cupping it to fit into the reel. Creating too much drag will cause the film to pull out of the clip or turn sideways. Once the first turn has been made on the reel run a finger nail (back side of your finger) along one edge to check for kinks. Check on each additional turn as some slight alignments do not show up until a few turns have been made. Unroll and try again if you detect one.
Check the clip and make certain the center of the clip is at the center of the reel.

Prewetting/prewashing: Another one of those optional things that some swear by and others claim are a waste of time. Ilford says not to use them with their films. Jobo say to use them with their tanks. I have pre wet Ilford films without any problems. Jobo tanks used without a pre wet usually have streaks. I use plain water, others use a wetting agent. I pre wet all films in all tanks that I use, Jobo and stainless steel.

Dislodging air bells in the prewash is important. Pre wet allows the film to absorb the developer quicker and antihalation dyes usually come off in the pre wet.

When filling the tank hold it at a 45 degree angle until at the solution is at the bottom edge of the fill opening then turn upright to top off. This allows air to be expelled easily and reduces splashing from air bubbles escaping.

Hewes reels aren't the only game in town. They're very good, but older Nikor and comparable reels were very well made and often available cheaply. Several years ago I bought a Nikor brand two-reel 120 stainless kit with tank, lid and reel lifter for five bucks, in the original box - less than I paid for a single 120 Hewes reel alone. There's a minor design difference between the Nikor and Hewes 120 reels, but in terms of quality they're equal.

Congrats on a good find.

I run a length of masking tape along the seam where the cover meets the tank. This stops any leaking and prevents the cover from accidentally coming off (for the loose fitting covers).

Keep a bottle opener or flat screwdriver handy. Sometimes the center cap gets stuck, and you NEED to dump the developer on time and stop the development.

The SS tanks are DURABLE, so don't be afraid to give it a good rap on the table/counter to dislodge any bubbles from the film.

Some reels have clips and hooks and other "aids," but I found it easier "for me" to just stick the end of the film into the center and start winding. Less hassle than fiddling with the clip.

Here's a hint for you. (35mm hint anyway) Leave the film in the canister and forget about using a can opener. Snip the leader in the light and pull out just enough to get started on the reel. Now turn off the lights or go into the changing bag. Loading from there on out should be a breeze. ( I still get frame 0 without light damage out of my old FE using this method) Hewes reels are by far the best I've ever used. Instead of clips they use simple square pins that grab the sprocket holes. I wouldn't use stainless reels until I got my Hewes.

As for how much developer that depends. I use two ounces of Tmax in 8 ounces of water (1-4) and use twice. I've read that there should be 6 ounces of D76 for a 35mm film without additional time adjustments but I'll let others chime in on that. At 1-1 that really floods a small reel.