Purple tint: Old 4x5 Transparencies

One round notch would be Kodak notch code 51, used for the original Ektachrome. Two round notches would be notch code 52, the original Ektachrome Type B. Both were E-1 process in that era, and the "professional" E-1 and E-3 process films were the most unstable color films Kodak ever shipped. (The "consumer" E-2 process was not quite as wretched. The first decent Ektachrome process was E-4, and E-6 is quite stable.)
E-2 films fade to magenta, but I could believe that E-1 films fade a different way. The yellow dye was particularly feeble.
See Acetate Negative Survey for my source data on notch codes.
For vastly more discussions of the problems of Ektachrome stability, see Wilhelm's book.

Ah ha... thanks for the response.. shot E-6 never thought it came from E-1 .. smile
What is amazing, using Elements 6, I was shocked at how well Quick Auto color corrected it.
Amazing.. udderly.. love film, and shoot nothing else, but digital scanning does have advantages.
(oh lard.. I hope I don't start one of those.. film ~ dig dings)

Even E-6 images can go magenta with age. What actually happens seems to be a result of the processing it received. In my experience, even in 50+-year old slides, Kodak developed images are usually still good, but ones done by non-Kodak processing are often color shifted.

Ive never had to tangle with bad E-4 or E-6 processing. Always used Kodak in the 1970's, for both Kodachrome 64 and High Speed Ektachrome, and they did great work. Then I used Kodalux/Qualex, and in 1991 got back two rolls of Kodachrome 200 with some spots on them, so that was the end of dealing with them! I did run some Kodachrome through Dwayne's in the last 4 years. So I've never encountered stability due to bad processing with these vendors.
I've seen faded E-2 Ektachromes processed by both Kodak and third-parties. They are so temperature sensitive that you rarely get to see how they do under proper conditions.
Yeah, to fix these sort of dye fades in scanning, you just start by adjusting the color curves so that the end points line up with the remaining density range. (That's what Quick Auto Color is doing.) The blue histogram (which reads yellow dye) will typically be pretty skinny on a faded slide. Then you often need to tweak the midtones. It takes a lot of practice to get really good results.
After scanning and repair, some of the faded E-2 Ektachromes I have provide more accurate color than a contemporaneous Kodachrome II slide. Kodachrome has "unique" types of color errors, where the re-exposure gets through to the wrong (middle, green-sensitive, magenta dye) emulsion layer, such that cyan or yellow dye accumulates there. Kodachrome wasn't accurate, just pretty and stable. Ektachrome was really quite accurate even then.

Interesting... I've got a Kodachrome taken of me in a baby carriage, close to 65 years ago, the color is still good. Had it scanned a few years ago and made a print of it, to hang next to my wife's tot picture. As I recall on the slide it sated Kodachrome with the red edges... something like that, so believe it was developed by Kodak.

The picture scanned is a South western shot with long vista's, shot I believe at dawn. Some of the magenta hung on, or something, just a newbie at this scanning stuff, but I decided to leave it alone. To me it gives a bit of a surreal image.

65 years ago Kodachrome was sold with processing included. It was a 1956 antitrust settlement that resulted in Kodachrome starting be sold without processing in the US.