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Bleaching- Ferri alternatives

Russell Wright , Dec 28, 2005; 07:55 a.m.

I live in Switzerland and due to Hazmat laws my local shop no longer sells Farmers reducer. Given tight airline regulations I'm also concerned about trying to hand carry this on my next return flight from the States/UK as there can be heavy fines. My question is; Are there any viable alternatives that I can whip up at home to achieve selective bleaching?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Responses

Wendell Kelly , Dec 28, 2005; 08:40 a.m.

There are several iron (ferric) ased bleaches that do not contain ferricyanide. Several of these use ferric sulfate and EDTA or a similar complexing agent. Kodak has published several variants on this idea.

I have been using the Brilland bleach, a ferric sulfate/citric acid mixture, sucessfully for bleaching prior to toning B&W prints. You can find details at:

http://www.designerinlight.com/holo/chem.htm

I find it necessary to filter the bleach through a coffee filter to remove sediment prior to using it. This is probably due to the technical grade of ferric sulfate that I'm using. The bleaching action is slightly slower than the ferricyanide formulae that I'd used in the past.

I hope that you find this of some use.

Conrad Hoffman , Dec 28, 2005; 10:03 a.m.

That's pretty odd, as potassium ferricyanide is less hazardous than lots of other common items. In spite of the name, it's hard to liberate free cyanide gas from it, and it's not the same deadly poison as potassium cyanide, though it is still quite toxic. Are there any in-country chemical supply companies you could get it from. IMO, standard farmers reducer is really the best thing to use.

Chris Waller , Dec 28, 2005; 10:24 a.m.

I use an iodine-based bleach. Dissolve 20 gm potassium iodide in 200ml water (distilled or deionized) and when that is fully dissolved, add 4 gm iodine and stir. The solution will turn very deep red-brown. Brush this bleach on to the area to be bleached, allow it to work for a few seconds, then follow with fixer to clear. It is very strong at stock strength so is probably better used diluted. I use it to remove black spots from prints, using a very fine brush.

Peter Svensson , Dec 28, 2005; 01:09 p.m.

If your store is telling the truth, those hazmat regulations are nuts. If you can get iodine tincture for wound treatment, that will work fine. Very strong when undiluted. Also, bleach-fix for RA4 processing will work, but it can be slow-acting.

Russell Wright , Dec 28, 2005; 06:26 p.m.

Thanks all. Yes, the hazmat may seem extreme but please remember this is the country where it's technically illegal to flush your toilet after 10pm(call me a rebel, I still flush). I should be able to find the iodine and certainly I can transport that in my luggage if need be.

Cheers

ole pet. , Dec 29, 2005; 07:26 a.m.

Dear Russell, just coming back from switzerland... You may ask Mr. Franchini from www.ars-imago.ch I�m quite sure, that he can help you. Take a look in "Das Magazin" supplement of Tagesanzeiger, current issue. For the Bad Raggaz story, I�ve used SPURs Farmer. It works great.

Good luck!

www.ole-pet.com

Anthony Pagan , Dec 29, 2005; 03:10 p.m.

You can always use the bleaching solution form a commercial sepia toning kit (Fotospeed); thats what I use. When diluted, I find that it gives me more control than ferri.

Anthony

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