5D with Sigma 10-20

The Sigma 10-20 is designed for crop-sensor cameras (that's the DC designation in its name), not full-frame. So, you might be able to use it from ~16-20mm without any gross vignetting, but certainly not from 10-20mm. Why bother?

Poolak,

The Sigma 10-20 will not work on the Canon 5D. The Sigma 12-24 is the wide angle zoom that will work on both a cropped sensor camera and a full frame sensor camera, like the Canon 5D.

Here's an article by Bob Atkins that will provide you many details.

http://bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/wide-angle-lenses.html

I hope this helps.

//Chuck

The lens will of work though it doesn't project a full frame image. Apparently the image circle already covers the full frame at 13mm with some heavy vignetting. If the borders are OK at stopped down at 16mm and the vignetting is not too heavy then it might be a reasonable ultrawide on full frame. Your only alternative is a Sigma 12-24. Even 16mm on full frame is wide (16mm is ultrawide - any wider and it's ludicrously wide - though useful for interiors).

Unfortunately I cannot find any sample pictures just the odd forum posting with very little information.

The 10-20 won't cover 5D/FF as noted above.

Below is a sample of the 12-24 on the 12mm end.

I've got the Sigma 12-24 EX DG on my 5D. It's full frame compatible.

Corners aren't very sharp and it suffer from a lot of vignetting at 12mm. But what do you expect from such a wide angle lens.

Here are some shots:

Sorry, I donﾒt understand what ﾓThe Sigma 10-20 will not work on the Canon 5D.ﾔ or ﾓThe lens will of work though it doesn't project a full frame image.ﾔ.

I understand 12-24 is the one for 5D ﾖ but still canﾒt visualize the impact of 10-20 / 5D on my 'wide-angle' intention ﾖ may be I need to see in a shop.

I get a feeling that I have to throw this 10-20 (or use it as paper-weight) if I buy 5D.

None of you people are trying this combination, have you?

Cheers,

Poolak

Read the link; the 10-20 will not work with the 5D. Period. Your 20D uses a physically smaller sensor that can be used with the 10-20. You are correct; the 10-20 will become an expensive, but very nice, paperweight, if you sell your 20D and get a 5D.

Poolak,

I have a 5D and the Sigma 10-20 (for use with a 300D).

I couldn't resist mounting the 10-20 on the 5D just to see the effect. It works correctly and communicates with the camera in every respect. I was hoping for a fisheye effect which sadly it doesn't give.

The image you get is distorted at the sides and not quite circular with heavy black borders where the camera sees the lens barrel.If you're after creating some strange effects, give it a go, but if you think it will give you an ultra wide lens, you're kidding yourself.

André,

Read the posts. The 10-20 *will* work with the 5D but the image will have black borders at the wider settings and may not have great borders at other settings. I don't know what the quality at the longer focal lengths will be like but I suspect neither do you so your statement seems a little strong.

Simon R,

Would you mind shooting and posting a series of images, say at f8 or f11, at a few focal lengths, particularly the longer end; 15mm, 16mm, 18mm, and 20mm.

Here are a couple of shots taken with the Sigma 10-20 and Canon 5D

Sorry about the quality and the uniteresting subject but they demonstrate a point

taken at f5.6 1/25th second ISO 800 taken 10 inches away from the salt and pepper mills

Thanks, a picture is worth a thousand words as they say. It seems you never get full frame coverage (despite the several forum posts to the contrary). Hopefully this will show Poolak the problem - seems you will need to get a full frame wide angle. The Canon 17-40/4L is good as is a good sample of the Sigma 12-24 (which is ludicrously wide).

Don't forget there's also a Sigma 15-30 that works full frame. As seen here.

Thank you all for the help. Thank God I have 17-40 to use with 5D (in future).

Till that time, long live my 20D + 10-20 + 24-105L.

Thanks again,

Poolak

<<The 10-20 *will* work with the 5D but the image will have black borders at the wider settings and may not have great borders at other settings. I don't know what the quality at the longer focal lengths will be like but I suspect neither do you so your statement seems a little strong.>>

"Work" is not the same as "fit". The 10-20 is designed to only throw a circle of light that will cover an APS sized sensor. Yes, the lens will mount to the 5D. No, it will not "work" because it cannot throw the proper sized circle to cover a full 35mm frame.

I guess Aaron thinks that no 8mm circular fisheye works with any 35mm camera ever produced. There are lenses that *fit* Canon's current 35mm cameras and project an image circle that is large enough to comfortably cover a 35mm frame, yet do not work at all - they cause the camera to lock up (try almost any mid 1990's EOS mount Sigma lens).

Meantime, look at this thread:

(link)

<<I guess Aaron thinks that no 8mm circular fisheye works with any 35mm camera ever produced. There are lenses that *fit* Canon's current 35mm cameras and project an image circle that is large enough to comfortably cover a 35mm frame, yet do not work at all - they cause the camera to lock up (try almost any mid 1990's EOS mount Sigma lens).>>

You're repeating my point in everything but the first sentence of your post... An EF-S lens (or a lens designed for an APS-C sensor) will mount to a full frame body (i.e. it will "fit"), but the vignetting will be so bad that it can't be counted as "working", just the same as the lenses that cause the body to lock up can't be counted as "working".

The 8mm circular fisheye is not an apt comparison because it's designed to project the circular image to the film. The 10-20 DC Sigma is a rectilinear lens and doesn't have the fisheye's unique perspective to make up for the vignetting. Essentially, there's a reason for the fisheye lens to make that circular image, but there's no real good reason for a rectilinear lens to cut off the corners.