ST-E2 Question

ST-E2 is line of sight, I believe, since it's infrared and not radio, which could be problematic if your hand covers the receptor on the flash. Consider Pocket Wizards or some of the cheap knock-offs available on eBay that use radio for triggering and thus can have physical objects between them without causing broken communication.

Oops - failed with the flower attachment. Here's a sample image:

Do you want and need ETTL? If so I would say the STE-2 would easily work like that, I have got mine to work in far worse situations.

If you don't then a set of Yongnuo RF-603's is my best advice.

But there is a knockoff STE-2 too, it is supposed to work better than the original at half the price.

I use the ST-E2 mainly for macro, normally aimed into a white reflector. Indoors it triggers even when pointed the wrong way as the signal reflects off ceilings and walls. Outdoors you need line-of-sight. I've also used it to trigger a 430EX held in my left hand, just above the camera and to the left and it worked fine. Also worked fine in a flash bracket. Just as long as you point the flash receptor towards the ST-E2, it will fire. Problems with triggering happen in really bright light and distances near the edge of its range (normally not a problem for macro subjects but a pain for large group portraits).

I always considered the ST-E2 a cool toy.

Overpriced. . but very, very cool. As others say. . it works like a TV remote. It is line of sight, but reflected light does wonders. It always seems to work indoors. You need to be careful outdoors. If the 60D flash trigger doesn't work- the ST-E2 probably won't either.

I've now chewed through a few flash cords ...

Perhaps you should start by thinking about why this is happening. The extreme clumsiness of your current setup could be a contributory factor. Used properly, the Off-Camera Shoe Cord is reasonably durable – I have had mine for years. Hand-held close-up work is tricky at the best of times, and trying to do it with one hand whilst holding a flashgun in the other is a complete non-starter in my book. Forget about the ST-E2 – a neat bit of kit but not the answer to your problem – and get yourself a new OCSC and a suitable flash bracket so that camera and flash can be handled as a single unit. Then you will be able to concentrate on positioning your subject matter better in relation to the limited depth of field available in close-up work, as well as avoiding distracting backgrounds. An even better way to learn about these techniques is to work from a tripod.

Your hand on the flash might be blocking the wireless flash signal from the 60D. Try putting the flash on a tripod near the subject and see if it works better. Trying to hold a flash in one hand and the camera in another makes it really tough to get consistently good sharp photos.

I have the Yongnuo ST-E2 and really like it a lot. I chose it primarily because it's the cheapest wireless TTL solution out there. But it also swivels in the hotshoe to aim towards your slave units, as well as lets you choose and control Group C. The Canon version does not swivel and while you can fire Group C, you can't adjust any of it (from what I've read). The AF-Assist beam is however of poor design or is of no help at all, the 3 beams of vertical light are pretty weak and when you turn the unit to face a slave unit the AF beam goes with it.
I've also experienced seeing the red flash from the ST-E2 in some shots, it's worse close up like your macro work than it is at more regular distances. So this would likely negate this trigger for your macro work and you should investigate why your 60D can't trigger your 420 reliably. If it's too close you may be getting the effect that the preflash from the popup on the 60D is washing out the sensor on the 420 by the time it gives the command to fire for the exposure. Much like when direct sunlight can drown out the slave unit's sensor in direct and indirect sunlight.

Maybe a better cord would be a better solution. http://www.flashzebra.com/ttlcords/ettlcords/index.shtml skip the 12 inch coiled cord and go for a longer straight cord.