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Filmtown: Leica IIIf and Fuji Provia 100F

Coming home to Filmtown Series by Josh Root, December 2008 (updated February 2011)


This month, we are looking at a camera with more history than all the digital gadgets on your desk combined: the god-king of Life Magazine images through much of the 1950’s, the Leica IIIf rangefinder. In this column, we will be pairing the Leica with Fuji’s Provia 100F, a tightly grained 100 speed color reversal film that aims for faithful color reproduction while still offering strong primary colors and saturation.

The Camera: Leica IIIf

Depending on how you want to count, the Leica IIIf is the seventh generation in Leica’s series of screw mount interchangeable lens rangefinder (more commonly called the LTM or Leica Thread Mount) cameras. These cameras were produced starting in the 1930’s and evolved through to the 1950’s. The LTM series of cameras was particularly important, not only to Leica, but to photography in general. The Leica II was Leica’s first rangefinder camera and is arguably the first 35mm “system” camera ever with its standardized interchangeable lenses from 35-135.

In Use

If you have never used one, an LTM Leica offers an experience that will probably surprise, excite, and infuriate you in any number of ways.

In your hand, the Leica IIIf is an impressive jewel of a beast. It doesn’t take an engineer or historian to realize that this camera is from an age when products were built to last. Despite it’s small size, it is solid feeling with the weight that comes from being constructed almost completely of metal. I’m guessing that the rubberized shutter curtains, the body covering, and the glass in the finder windows and RF assembly are probably the only non-metal parts of the IIIf.

The most frustrating thing about he IIIf has to be it’s film loading. Now, before I complain too much, keep in mind that the 35mm film format was still in it’s early infancy when these cameras were designed. So it’s not like Leica had many other cameras to look to for ideas. They were flying blind on a lot of this stuff. That having been said, the film loading system in the LTM Leicas is maddening. Here is the process:

  • Take new roll of 35mm film and pull out 10cm or so of film
  • Use scissors to cut the film leader into the shape shown in the image below
  • Turn camera upside-down and remove bottom plate
  • Pull out take-up spool
  • Tuck leader under tab on take up spool.
  • Carefully place film canister and take-up spool back into camera and make sure they are seated down (towards the top of the camera) as far as they will go.
  • Slowly advance the film knob a bit and try to ensure that the teeth of the film advance sprocket are engaging the holes on the film. If not, you likely do not have the film canister and/or take up spool seated properly.
  • Once you are sure the film is advancing properly, replace bottom plate and advance film 2 more frames, making sure that the rewind knob is spinning as you do so. That is how you will know that everything is operating properly.

With practice, it becomes a lot easier to do. But there is nobody who can say with a straight face that it is easy or quick. Some LTM users find that setting the camera to T and leaving the shutter open can help them make sure that the film is seated correctly. I myself rarely do this as I worry that I’ll muck something up if the shutter closes early or I gouge something on the inside of the camera. Perhaps that is just my ham-handed lack of coordination talking.

Leica did make an accessory at one time that quickly cut the film leader to the correct length and shape for LTM loading, it was called ABLON. Like all many old Leica gadgets and accessories, it is terribly overpriced. However, unlike many old Leica accessories, it is totally unnecessary. Virtually every LTM user I know simply cuts their film leader with a knife or a pair of scissors. Some have even been known to tear the leader with their teeth in a pinch. If you have an ABLON, go ahead and use it. But I don’t suggest going out and buying one, most people would rather save that money for more film.

Mounting a lens is slightly harder than your average bayonet mount SLR. But for anyone who has ever used a screw mount lens of any sort, the Leica IIIf will bring back fond memories. For those who haven’t used a screw mount camera the operation is pretty simple. With the camera front facing you, it’s the basic “righty tighty, lefty loosey” system. To remove the lens, grasp it with fingers and rotate it counter clockwise. It takes about 2.5 turns to remove it. To mount a lens, do the same thing but rotate clockwise. When mounting a lens, you may have to apply a little pressure inwards towards the camera until the threads catch. That is because the RF cam arm is springy and will push back on the lens just a little bit. I suppose it would be possible to cross thread the lens and body. But to be honest I haven’t ever gotten close to doing so.

With the split focusing and composition viewfinders (and the limit of just a 50mm FOV for the internal composing viewfinder) speedy image making is a bit of a challenge on the IIIf. It goes a little something like this:

  • Compose image in either the right hand internal finder (if using a 50mm lens) or in external VF
  • Switch to left hand internal finder and focus image
  • Switch back to other finder and recompose image
  • Finally press shutter button

To be fair, it sounds like it takes a lot longer than than it really does. But compared to using an SLR viewfinder or even a modern RF viewfinder, it is significantly slower. You do get used to it after a while. Besides, the final judgment may be the fact that many amazing images have been taken with LTM Leicas, so the split focus/composition finders can’t be that much of a problem for people. After all, if Cartier-Bresson could do it, you should be able to also. Right? One advantage of the split focus/composition viewfinder is that the highly magnified focusing finder is quite accurate. This is an advantage when using fast lenses wide open. With the narrow depth of field that a 50/2 has at f2, you need all the focusing help you can get.

The RF patch on the IIIf is not a neat little rectangle like on modern rangefinders. Instead it’s a sort of blobby circle shape with no defined edges. To those used to using the edges of their RF patch to assist in focusing, this will take some getting used to. Speaking of the RF patch, one of the common problems with these 50+ year old cameras is that the RF patch just slowly fades away. This is due to the RF mirror/beamsplitter becoming, essentially, non-reflective any more. I’m sure there is some technical reason for this, but I have no idea what it is. The important thing to know is that a good Leica repair person will be able to replace it for you. I had mine done at the same time as a CLA and the whole thing cost less than $300. Which is pretty good considering that a normal CLA is not a whole lot less than that. Since lots of the cost is in the labor of taking these clockwork LTM beasts apart, it pays to get as many repairs/upgrades done at once as you can.

There is no meter in any of the LTM Leicas and the IIIf is no exception. Users commonly have two choices in this department. The first of which is a shoe-mounted meter such as the old Leica MR or the newer Voigtlander VC meter. The second option is a hand-held incident meter from a company like Sekonic or Polaris. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. The shoe mount meter causes problems if you are using a shoe mounted finder (though Voigtlander does make a series of dual cold shoe mounts to solve this), but these meters are small and stay attached to the camera. A hand-held meter is a great accessory for any photographer, but it does require taking your eye and one hand far away from the camera and can slow down the image making process even more. For what it’s worth, I myself use a Sekonic incident meter.

Speaking of the camera’s shoe, let’s talk for a moment about flash photography with the Leica IIIf. The IIIf was the first Leica with a flash sync, though it was pretty slow at 1/20 of a second. What is worse is that, due to the lack of a hot shoe, you must use a PC cord to connect to the camera. This would be fine if the PC plug was on the front or the side like a normal camera body. But no, Leica placed it right next to the viewfinder, making it quite easy to poke yourself in the eye fairly painfully. To be fair, newer Leicas aren’t exactly immune to this either. Though they do have the benefit of hot shoes, making the PC plug a lot less likely to be used.

The LTM Leicas use an old non-standard shutter speed progression that doesn’t match up with today’s cameras or meters. For example, instead of the standard 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 speeds, the IIIF has 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/200. This isn’t a particularly big deal but you might have to use a little brain power to adjust your exposure to take into account that 1/50 is slightly slower than 1/60 if you are the sort who cares about being precise. Then again, considering how far off your the shutter speeds can be in any mechanical camera (especially one that is 50+ years old) it may not make any difference. In any case, the IIIf has two different shutter speed dials for choosing these oddball speeds. T, 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/15, & 1/25 are on the smaller dial on the front of the camera 1/50-1/1000 + B are on top of the camera, along with a 1-25 setting. To set the shutter speeds on the upper dial, you just line the speed up with the little arrow mark that is on the hot shoe. To use the slower speeds, you set the upper dial to 1-25 and then line the speed up on the lower dial. One thing to note about the LTM Leica’s and their shutter speed dials is that the upper dial rotates during exposure. If you aren’t careful, and something is resting on or rubbing against the upper dial while you are trying to shoot a photo, the friction will change your exposure time significantly. Just another of the wonderful LTM oddities to be aware of.

Finally, rewinding your film at the end of the roll is slow and annoying. The knob rewind is, in my opinion, just awful. So awful that over the years Leica and many others have made various add on rewind lever accessories. But on some level you just can’t improve on something that is this badly designed. Of course, I’m exagerating a bit, but between this and the crazy bottom loading, one starts to wonder if Leica was just playing some sort of cruel practical joke on the world. but be patient, your film will end up back in the canister eventually. Then you can look forward to loading the darn thing again, what fun!

The Verdict

The LTM Leicas are a labor of love for many people. Compared to later RF bodies, they are fairly difficult to use. Now, is something being difficult a reason not to do it? Of course not! Many wonderful images are still made with these cameras every single day. And that, in and of itself, is a pretty strong testimonial to the high quality of the LTM Leicas. But the fact is that with it’s awful film loading, knob film advance, weird shutter speeds, and split focusing/composition windows, the IIIf is quirky at best and throw-it-across the room frustrating at worst. So who would want to use one of these then? Well, if I were an RF photographer looking for a new experience and a way to revisit the roots of RF photography, a IIIf would be a wonderful way to go. They are easy enough to find in good shape and their prices are reasonable. Although, if I were trying to get a photographer interested in the world of RF photography, I absolutely would not hand him a IIIf and hope that he got excited. While everyone is different, it is my experience that RF photography is a big enough change for most people (from SLR photography) that starting them out with a camera that they are less likely to be frustrated by is probably a better idea.

However, strangely enough, LTM Leicas are frequently the first experience that photographers have with RF photography. I can’t tell you how many “My grandma gave me grandpa’s old camera kit. What have I got here?” type questions I have seen over the years where the answer was, “You have a LTM Leica rangefinder.” And the good news is that these cameras are likely to be perfectly usable with a little clean, lube and adjust repair work. Which brings up a very important point, as of this writing (January 2008), repair parts and knowledgeable repairmen/women are still easy to find. As I mentioned previously, last fall I sent my IIIf off to get its mirror resilvered and have everything adjusted. $300 and 3 weeks later it was back better than ever. At the risk of being annoying by repeating myself, this is an important fact that cannot be overlooked. There are many other great classic cameras that are suffering from lack of parts, lack of knowledgeable repairmen, or both. Thankfully, the old Leica rangefinders are not in that group just yet.

Overall, the Leica IIIf is a fun camera to use. It doesn’t suit my particular brand of photography perfectly because I find it to just be too slow overall to use for most projects I do. However, I enjoy using the IIIf just for it’s wonderful build quality, the history that it embodies, and the sheer difference of experience that I get in comparison to any of my usual tools.

The Film: Fuji 100F

Fuji Profia 100f is a 100 speed E-6 process color-reversal film. For those unfamiliar with the term, color-reversal film is the fancy name for what most of us call “slide film”. Provia 100F (Also called RDP III) is the successor to Fuji’s popular Provia 100 (RDP II). Provia 100 was a film that came of age in the late 90’s when “colors that pop” were all the rage. It has less saturation than it’s cousin Velvia, but it still gave very strong reds/blues/greens and was a favorite of editorial outdoor shooters. It’s skin tone reproduction wasn’t great, but was serviceable (and much better than Velvia) if using something like Fuji Astia wasn’t an option. The Provia 100’s main drawbacks to many photographers were that it was fairly grainy in comparison to Velvia considering that there was just a 1 stop speed difference between the two and that Provia was a film that didn’t tolerate being pushed very well. In 1999, Provia 100F was released largely to address both of these issues.

Initial feedback was good, with most photographers claiming a significant decrease in grain and improved success with push processing. Initial batches of Provia did seem to suffer from a slight green tint. If my memory was correct, this was even officially acknowledged by Fuji. Even if it was just anecdotal, the issue was gone from subsequent batches and Provia 100F has remained one of the world’s most popular slide films.

In Use

It is true that Fuji Provia 100F is not a new film by any means, it has been on the market for almost a decade now. However, it still remains a favorite emulsion of many slide film shooters. It’s colors are bright without without the exaggerated “cartoon” color results that some accuse more saturated films like Velvia of having. Provia 100F’s improvements over the original Provia remain important today. The grain is quite tight and the film can withstand push processing within reason. For me personally, “within reason” was never more than two stops.

The most common complaint about Provia 100F is probably that many shooters claim to see a blue cast some situations. The fact that this issue crops up on both sunny and overcast days would indicate that it is not just a color balance or exposure issue. However, I myself have not found this issue to be something I notice. Perhaps it is where and when I shoot or perhaps I’m just blaming other issues whenever I see a color cast, but it just hasn’t been that much of an problem for me. But if it is an issue for you, as it is for some photographers, the general consensus is that carrying a couple slight warming filters should fix the problem for the most part.

Unlike many film emulsions these day, Fuji Provia 100F has not been particularly affected by the “digital revolution” and is still available in many different sizes and format. Currently Provia 100F is available in:

  • 35mm rolls
  • 35mm 100 foot bulk load rolls
  • 120 rolls
  • 220 rolls
  • 4×5 sheets
  • 8×10 sheets
  • 11×14 sheets
  • Quickload 4×5 sheets

This is a pretty expansive list of formats to choose from and it really speaks to the popularity that Provia 100F has had over the years and continues to have.

Overall user experience with scanning with Provia 100F seems to be positive. Though like many slide films, scanning underexposed film is particularly difficult. Especially when compared to scanning underexposed negative film. But exposure latitude has never been one of the hallmarks of slide film, so that shouldn’t be news to anyone.

The Verdict

I shot a boatload of this film when I was shooting for “extreme sports” magazines in the late 90’s and early 2000’s. It was a great film for this purpose. Editors loved it’s punchy but accurate colors, I loved the ability to fill my bag with one slide film and still be able to push one or two stops if needed, and the athletes loved the…well, the athletes didn’t care about anything except making sure I got the shot. Fuji Provia 100F served me very well in almost every regard. I tried many other slide emulsions during those years, but I never found anything that I preferred more.

Now, in 2008, I find that my feelings have not changed all that much. I still enjoy almost everything about Provia 100F. However, it is important to recognize the limitations that all slide films have. If you are looking for a low light, high speed, contrasty situation type film, you are going to have a tough time of it with almost any slide film. If you are looking for a nicely saturated daylight balanced slow to mid speed film that will perform well in virtually every situation that you could expect it to perform well in, Provia 100F is a great choice.

All Together Now

Quite honestly, this wasn’t the greatest film/camera combo for me personally. I love rangefinder photography (as readers of the “Filmtown” series are going to become painfully aware) but I typically use them in low light candid type situations. In the bar, at a party, on the street, in a horse barn, and so on. The ISO 100 speed of Provia 100F really crimped my style in this regard. That having been said, I admit that this is totally a “me” problem. There are any number of rangefinder photographers who have made amazing images with slow speed film. From contemporary RF photographers like William Albert Allard to icons like Alfred Eisenstaedt (who very likely used a Leica IIIf with his slow film). If I were the kind of guy who spent more time out doing photography in the outside world where natural light exists rather than in dingy bars, I would have had more fun with this film/camera combo. As it was, I felt like I had a hard time coming up with images that I liked.

This Month’s Contest

We want our dedicated film using members to post their own experiences on the Filmtown articles. So, to encourage participation in this article series, we are going to give away a five roll pack of Fuji Provia 100F (35mm or 120) to two of the users who leave comments on this page. How to enter? Just click “add a comment” at the bottom of the page and post a suggestion, personal experience, or review about using either a Leica IIIf (or any Leica screw mount) or Fuji Provia 100F. Or you can post a photo taken with the camera or film (one photo per person please). We’ll pick one film and one camera post and give away the prizes. Super easy.

Where to Buy

Given that the Leica IIIf is over 50 years old, it would be a minor miracle to find one new and in-stock at a camera store, but I suppose anything is possible. A better bet would be the Leica & Rangefinder category of the Photo.net classifieds or your favorite used camera retailer. You can find Provia 100F at just about any professional photo supply house. Or you can get a better deal and support photo.net if you order it through one of our retail partners:

More


Original text and images ©2009 Josh Root.

Article revised February 2011.

Readers' Comments


Add a comment



Paul G. , February 18, 2009; 07:07 P.M.

I've had very good experiences using Provia 100F with both SLR and rangefinder cameras, and scanning them for digital processing. The grain is very tight and the colors and contrast are strong. I have experienced the blue cast problem, although it mainly shows up in the evening when the light is in fact blue. The only downside of shooting Provia, especially with a rangefinder, is that 100 ISO is pretty slow for indoors, available light, etc... just the things that a rangefinder is best for.

Here is a shot using Provia 100F and a Leica rangefinder (click for larger size)

dale moreau , February 18, 2009; 07:35 P.M.

A couple years ago, I was able to pick up a IIIc on ebay favorably. This one was made the year I was born, making it "special":-) I keep it loaded with B&W film and occasionally grab it for a Saturday adventure. the film primping is not quite the challenge you describe and I completely agree with the "feel" and the history of the camera. One interesting note is that it took 40 man hours to build a series III Leica. have fun, dale

Martin Beizer , February 18, 2009; 08:00 P.M.

I started serious photography with my father's IIIF/collapsable Summitar 50/2.0 in the 60's and later bought a 1958 M2 that I still use, with 15/35/75 Voigtlander lenses as well as a 50/2.0 Summicron. One CLA in the early 90's has seen it through 51 years and it works like new. Your photos with the IIIf are great! I haven't used slide film in longer than I can remember, but I may try it again after seeing your photos.

Neil Granger , February 18, 2009; 08:03 P.M.

Thanks for the article on the IIIf. I've been the owner of a IIIc since 1968, when my dad gave me his (purchased in Germany after the war) for my 18th birthday.The entire kit consisted of the 50, 90 and 135mm lenses, filters, and everything I needed to begin my love affair with photography. Even though I have other cameras (Nikon FE, Nikon D80, and Rollei), I still love to come back to the Leica. You're right, Josh- the camera is a far cry from most of today's offerings. It is, to me, an elegant piece of vintage mechanical engineering and design( the insane film loading notwithstanding).I've had the camera refurbished once(for about $200), and it still works perfectly. One of the things I like about the camera is the portability- with the the 50mm lens collapsed, its quite compact ( I actually took it in a month-long backpacking trip- it just slid easily into the pocket of my bag). Another is the quiet shutter. It is a great camera for discreet photography. Mostly, though, the Leica is just fun to use. I don't think its entirely a bad thing to have to work for a photo once in a while-having had a digital camera for the last few years, I sometimes forget that there was a time when every frame was precious, and metering was done outside the camera! This camera will always be my sentimental favorite.I just wish that I worked as well at my age as this camera does at its age...

Stephen Rosenbach , February 18, 2009; 09:00 P.M.


Rue Foyatier, Paris - 1977

After college, I came back to Batimore, where I got my first engineering job, and where I lived for four years, until 1975. Pre-Urban Redevelopment downtown Baltimore at the time seemed pretty boring to me, so I tried to get up to New York City a few times a year for picture opportunities.

On a day trip to NYC in late summer of 1973, I bought a Leica IIIc at Olden's, along with a Canon Seranar 50mm f/1.8 lens. With 2 or 3 rolls of Plus-X in my pocket, I was suddenly a Leica photographer, in the company of Cartier-Bresson and Eisenstadt.

That Leica, when I bought it, was already 33 years old, but it was a thing of beauty. Compared to my Nikon, especially with its heavy and clunky Photomic T finder, it was a featherweight, and a pleasure to carry around. For some reason, compared to an SLR, the rangefinder mechanism and all the fine knurling on the various knobs gave it a feeling of watch-like precision. It may be a guy thing, but I found myself often picking it up at odd times and playing with it - not shooting pictures, just looking through the viewfinder and rangefinder (two separate windows in the old screw-mount Leicas!) and focusing it, and dry-firing it.

The Serenar was a really excellent lens, but I had really wanted a Leica lens so as to be more "authentic." A year after buying the camera, I purchased a near-mint collapsible Summicron 50mm f/2.0. I wasn't disappointed, as this turned out the be the best lens I've ever owned prior to the digital age. Besides its amazing optical performance, it was also a better physical match for the small camera than the heavy Serenar. With the Summicron collapsed, I could slip the whole package into a coat pocket.

Most of what I took with the Leica was black & white. After several years of experience developing and printing B&W during college, I wouldn't let anyone else develop or print my negatives. During those first post-college years, my darkroom was a tiny hallway between the bathroom, bedroom, and living room in my one-bedroom apartment. There was a door to each room, so I just closed the ones to the bedroom and living room, set up a table in the hallway for my enlarger and trays, stuffed towels under the closed doors to block out stray light, and I was in business.

In 1975, I moved to NYC. I bought a M3 DS (double-stroke) in 1978 or 1979, I can't remember exactly when - I guess it's just too painful - again at my favorite little camera shop, Olden Camera, just off Herald Square. I think it was something like $350 or $380, and that included a screw-mount-to-M-mount adaptor for my 50mm Summicron. I don't think I could touch that same camera today for under a thousand dollars. Maybe I shoulda invested in Leicas instead of the stock market.

The funny thing is, as beautiful and precise and fondle-able that camera was, I just don't remember taking a whole lot of pictures with it. I don't think I have a single photo that I can put my hands on right now that I could definitely say was taken with the M3. Don't ask.

It turns out that every one of my favorite photos from that period of my life were taken with that old IIIc. I've included one of them, and here's the story behind it.

In late December 1977, my IIIc and I found ourselves in Paris. I was standing at the base of Rue Foyatier, the oft-photographed stairway that climbs up the Butte Montmartre in Paris, ending near Sacre Couer basillica, the highest point in the city. It was a soggy, overcast day, and I wanted a somber, lonely look. I waited for a person to include in the scene, and this solitary lady obliged me by starting the long, schleppy climb upward.

In 1980, I got married, and we bought our first house and started a family in short order. Photography as a passion was displaced by other priorities, and sadly, I sold all my cameras, including the Leicas, replacing them with a new 35mm P&S to keep up with the new baby.

After more than 20 years, I got back into photography in a big way several years ago, shooting all digital, all the time. But every once in a while, I still check eBay to see what Leica IIIc's are going for...

Fred Haeseker , February 18, 2009; 10:14 P.M.

A IIIf was my first serious 35mm camera. When you get accustomed to it, it's quite an easy camera to use. I've never found it necessary to cut the long leader, although it's probably safer for the camera's innards. I still use the IIIf, as a carry-around camera (very compact with the 5-cm collapsible Elmar or the 3.5-cm Summaron) and, oddly enough, indoors with flash -- I use a Vivitar 283 on a bracket, with a diffuser. The slow synch speed (1/30 sec. on my IIIf) nicely captures the ambient light, which I like. I also find the rangefinder very effective indoors. Of course those old lenses produce what you might call a vintage effect, which you may or may not like. The vintage look certainly doesn't detract from Eisenstadt's or Cartier-Bresson's photographs, though!

visakh menon , February 18, 2009; 10:22 P.M.

from the first test roll on a LEICA IIIf, 50mm summitar lens
I bought the camera on craigslist from an antique furniture collector who had picked it up on an estate sale near PA. He said he had it for a year or two and never took it out of the box, but added that the estate he bought it from belonged to some filmmaker. Never found out who....

only issue that cropped up on the test roll was some spots, the usal suspect the shutter curtain, infact that led to a very interesting discussion here on the Photo.net rangefinder forum
http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00PPO5 it sure is a marvel of camera making.

Image Attachment: shower.jpg

JDM von Weinberg , February 18, 2009; 11:42 P.M.


Leica III field photo

In the first archaeological field party I personally directed (1963)--a survey of the Milford Reservoir in north-central Kansas, one of our field cameras was a Leica III. It was an equipment locker camera, and I don't remember precisely which model of the III it was, but it did have a collapsable lens. Strangely enough, I don't remember then having all that much trouble loading it. Since I do remember a Kodak Signet from the previous season as one of the most awkward cameras I've ever used, it may just be that I was basking in that "Leica" glow.

Just recently, I got a extremely "rare" Swedish military Leica from the ex-Soviet Union, that is of an undetermined model designation (née Zorkii). Loading it, despite its dubious heritage, is exactly the thrilling experience that Josh describes. Somewhere on a web site, someone claims to be able to load a LTM Leica in 30 seconds, but even by the most generous interpretation, that cannot include trimming the film leader.

Much as I like the Leicas, I'm still more of a Contax person, although my copie of that--aside from my Contax S or D-- are of equally dubious origins.

Ronald Moravec , February 19, 2009; 12:24 A.M.

Jack sure is a cutie.

An ABLON is not necessary for triming the leader as you suggest. But the real advantage is the arrowhead end which is used to form the point on the end that fastens the film into the spool slot for the Leica film cassettes. The point has to be centered mid line on the film , the correct angle needs to be made so the cuts meet the sprocket holes in the correct place, and you have to do this in the dark with 100 feet of unprotected film hanging off the end of your bench. I can`t do it with the lights on reliably, let alone in the dark. When you make a few bad cuts and have trouble clearing the point from the spool after developing the film, you will realize it is best to do it right. I paid for the ABLON.

The pointed or arrowhead end is not on the generic templates so that is not an option either.

The camera is indeed a joy to use if you want something retro. Small, quiet, light, and goes into a large pocket. It also attracts some attention and a few questions from passerby.

nigel jones , February 19, 2009; 04:15 A.M.

I unfortunately have not had the pleasure of using a Leica before, but I am now just getting used to a rangefinder through my Yashica GSN.

Provia 100F is such an amazing film though, as a relatively poor 18-year student, I recently came across a plethora of expired Provia 100f in 35mm & 120/220. This is honestly my favorite slide film and perhaps my favorite film ever next to Tri-x 400. During the daytime the limits are endless, skateboarding, portraits, landscape, this film rules at all of these.

While I realize my meager two year involvement in photography has not been much, my recent discovery of Provia 100F dramatically altered my view of photography and pulled me into film instead of digital.

Nigel

Tom Fowler , February 19, 2009; 07:46 A.M.

After being digital for five years I went back to film in a big way. I loaded up a Mamiyaflex with some Fuji Provia 100F and started snapping away. On that first roll I had some good photographs (for me), and it has me hooked. I enjoy the "look" of film and will continue to use it in conjunction with the digital ease. Thanks for keeping up with this series on film, I enjoy it. treesunrise

charles wick , February 19, 2009; 08:51 A.M.

The great thing about the 111f is the way it feels in the hand and its handling in general; as has been said it is a little treasure, the perfect size and weight. The M series can't compare in this regard. Since picking up a nice 111f, in 2006, I use it almost all the time. I have a 1.5 Summarit, which contrary to legend is a very useful lens, and a collapsible summicron, as well as a 3.5 summaron and two hektors. I have taken some of my best images with this magical little friend. Of course I also use a Kodak Tourist and Signet 40, and a bunch of screw mount Pentax.

John Shriver , February 19, 2009; 09:08 A.M.

The other non-metal material in the IIIf would be the insulation materials in the flash sync circuit. But that's it. I've done my own CLA's on my IIIa, which is an even simpler camera than the IIIf. It's simple but clever.

The beam-splitter in the rangefinder is a half-silvered mirror. It literally is silvered, and as the silver tarnishes from sulfur compounds in today's smoggy air, it gets less and less reflective. As that happens, the secondary image vanishes. It's very easy to replace, I got a genuine new-old-stock Leica replacement, and it's aluminized rather than silvered, and should last for the rest of my life.

The reason that film loading didn't seem hard in 1963 was that film leader tails were longer then. It was some time around 1980 that Kodak switched to the runt leader that's now standard. Saved 2 inches of film per roll, somebody must have gotten a big bonus for that idea.

All the screwmount Leicas are wonderful "bring everywhere" cameras. I wore a IIIa with Canon 35/1.8 lens on a recent vacation to New York city, and it was just not a burden at all.

Don E , February 19, 2009; 10:34 A.M.

If you are a '50mm photographer', shoot silver b&w, and have adopted the Elder Esthetic (aka classic look, olde skoole), then, look no further, this is your system camera. The rest of your system will include many other 50mm lenses, including another Elmar 50, at least. Tired of the same old same old with the Elmar or cron, why just mount the Summar and suddenly, the world is new.

I may be the only person who likes the knob rewind rather than the fussy little plasticked pop-up levers on most other cameras and the little flush or deepset button on base plates (which never gets mentioned in such comparisons of rewinding). If you have problems with your fingers (as I do), the knob rewind is a blessing.

Cutting leader can be tedious. I use curved cuticle scissors and will cut as many rolls as I can bear at a sitting. Get it over with. Loading the right way isn't bad, unless you are in the field and clutching the baseplate in your teeth. Secure the leader under the slot in the takeup spool (this slot actually is a slot, unlike some flipback cameras little slit cutouts, and yes, I'm looking at you, Pentax), check to see if it is in straight, drop the casettes in, push down on them to seat them, and you're good to go.

It's a great carry everywhere camera -- but heavy for some girlie pockets -- with a collapsed 50.

I use my IIIf lots and as God and HCB intended, hyperfocus and sunny 16.

It is the un-black finish camera. Polish up that chrome! It is also God's own crumpet catcher, the cute puppy, the Jag XKE of cameras.

Christopher Chen , February 19, 2009; 10:38 A.M.

Re: the ABLON, while they may be overpriced for what they are, you can find them in slightly-beat, but perfectly functional, condition for around $20 U.S. You can also purchase modern knock-offs in the same price range.

Frank Doering , February 19, 2009; 01:24 P.M.

After a lot of DSLR work, I am rediscovering the joy of sauntering with a comparatively small M6 and one or two lenses. Dealing with films' quirks and possibilities is a refreshing exercise, and I continue to be surprised at finding large prints (say 20x30") from 35mm more pleasing than from my Nikon D3, warts and all. This from a guy who considers everything smaller than 2 1/4" a toy format. The following was shot in Rome last month on Fuji Provia 100F (RDP III) with a 35/2 asph. Summicron.
Tiber Flood

Mark Smith , February 19, 2009; 01:43 P.M.

I had a IIIc with 50mm F3,5 Elmar from 1947. I loved it and used it for about 20 years, but recently passed it on (I have an M4P) for someone else to love. Here is a shot taken with it on Neopan 400: http://www.pbase.com/mark_antony/image/62439570.jpg

Richard Baznik , February 19, 2009; 02:17 P.M.

In 1956, at the age of 13, I went off to school with a Leica IID that my father loaned me. He was a serious amateur, as I am now. As I recall, he said something like, "Here, you'll need a camera." He'd taught me to expose, process, and print images since I was ten, and I assumed that all fathers had dark rooms in the basement and cabinets full of Leicas and Rolleis.

So I left for school with the IID and a collapsible 50mm Elmar 3.5, worrying that I would be out-gunned by the gear carried by all the other students. Not to worry! There was a decent dark room at the school and I became one of its primary users, and my photographs were used in a wide variety of school publications.

After a couple years of using the IID, my father decided I should branch out a bit within his collection of gear, so I left the Leica at home for a semester and used his Rolleiflex 3.5. Within a few weeks I was begging for the Leica again.

Years later he gave me the IID to keep, along with a 50mm Summarit 1.5 and a 90mm Elmar. I bought a Canon copy of a Leica IIIF, complete with a couple of Canon Serenar LTM lenses, and I used those bodies as my "system" for decades. Now I shoot with an M6 and and M3, plus MF and LF -- but several times a year I go shooting with the LTMs.

While I do have the Leica template for trimming film leaders, I have never used it. Eyeballing the slice has always been sufficient. The trick is to be certain that the leading corner of the cut portion of the film is rounded off so it doesn't catch on the film gate.

Emiko Davies , February 19, 2009; 04:50 P.M.


pines, Cecina, Tuscany

I wanted to post a picture taken with Provia 400, just to compare... I am a fan of 400 speed films - yes I do like grain, but I also like the versatility of a 400 speed film, especially as I use medium format that has a max aperture of f.3.5. The colours, I agree, are lovely and crisp, even if a little on the cold side, which in the case of this image I prefer. Anyway, this is a straight scan of the Provia 400. I haven't yet tried it or the 100 with my new (well, old) leica (it's a 1937 IIIg), but that'll be my next experiment.

Brian Sweeney , February 19, 2009; 07:34 P.M.


Marine, Korean War Display at Quantico, VA

What can I say? Just more fun to use.

Leica Mount 1941 CZJ 5cm F1.5 Sonnar on the Canon P, handheld at 1/15th. Kodacolor 400

Brian Grossman , February 19, 2009; 11:31 P.M.

for a much less frustrating vintage LTM experience, i suggest the lever-advance V and VI series canon rangefinders. in addition to having swing-open backs with conventional film loading and proper rewind cranks, these cameras are small, quiet and functional works of art designed in the bauhaus style. they are all metal and built every bit as solid as contemporary leicas; some say more so. they have an integrated viewfinder/rangefinder with adjustable magnification. prices and availability are comparable to the IIIf.

Image Attachment: small100foma084.jpg

Ray DiCecca , February 20, 2009; 05:05 A.M.

IIIf w/Summitar (yellow filter) & Tri-X

I love the color rendering of the Summitar lens - my favorite and only lens on my IIIf RD. Here's one in B&W: Cemetery #1

Jay F , February 21, 2009; 10:35 P.M.


Feeding The Chickadees

After trying a brick of Provia 100 I decided I would stick with that film, almost exclusively, and learn it inside-out. While I never really disliked Velvia, the colours (as others have mentioned) seem a bit too much for my taste.

Funny thing is, since I started using a DSLR, about 2 years ago, and got up to speed with computer editing software, I seem to punch-up the colours until I get velvia-like results. I think I have been doing this just because I can...and I am now getting over it (or so I would like to think) ;~))

I still shoot 35mm kit with Provia 100 but I also enjoy the excitement that comes along with trying a new film...haven't found the "digital equivalent" for that feeling yet. So, lately I have been shooting Provia 400 and Astia as well as the Kodak and Ilford chromogenic B&W films.

I enjoyed your article Josh. It prompted me to drag-out my binders and look over all my E6 stuff. Keep them coming!

The photo was shot on Provia 100 - pushed one stop.

Cheers! Jay

Greg King , February 22, 2009; 01:22 A.M.

Hello Josh.

I would be very interested in a Filmtown on the Agfa Clack and what contemporary film(s) would be a good match.

Friends of my family came out to Australia, after the war, and I have ended up with their Clack. Its simplicity baffles me sometimes!

Rob F. , February 23, 2009; 05:36 A.M.

Josh: the first Leica I ever used was my Dad's model II, with f/3.5 Elmar. I was around age 12 or 13 when I started using it. Later I used his IIIf for several years. I no longer have either, but I have another II, with nickel Elmar; and a pair of IIIcs. I do use the IIIcs, along with the Leica M cameras I mostly use today. In fact the IIIcs will go with me to France next month. They are small and light, and make good walkaround cameras with my tiny Cosina-Voigtlander lenses. I use the 25mm, the 28mm black "pancake" Color-Skopar; and the 35mm f/2.5; all with Cosina accessory finders. I also use the 50mm collapsible Summicron.

I find it is only necessary to trim away seven or eight sprocket holes when preparing film for a thread-mount Leica. That's been enough to prevent a misload. Eight sprocket holes equals the length of one frame, and that seems to be enough.

I use both Velvia and Provia 100F. I do like strong, punchy color. After all, a photo is an interpretation of reality; an abstraction. So why worry about colors being "natural," unless we are taking portraits? But I've also experimented with using Astia for contrasty outdoor shots. I think it may have a bit more latitude in that situation. And in direct sunlight, the color still seems vibrant enough. What do you think?

Arthur Plumpton , February 25, 2009; 01:01 P.M.

I think my reason for buying a used IIIf (actually a IIIb transformed into a IIIf) was part romantic (Leica history; HCB and others used them; also it was a classic camera of its time) and part practical (desire for a virtually indestructable camera body, one that could take modern LTM type lenses).

Most of my photographic equipment is manual exposure or simply manual with external lightmetering. Using a manual M6 camera, I could focus more rapidly than a friend using an autofocus camera (at the time, c1995), although no doubt this would not be possible today. In any case, much of my photography is slower and methodical, trying to create compositions as much as responding to them. The IIIf, for all its inconveniences (poor VF, double window for RF adjustment, slightly difficult to manipulate shutter speeds, film loading, virtually impossible to calibrate shutter speed with a Calumet shutter tester, etc.) is a decent camera.

Most of my rapid shooting is done with a more modern silent camera, like the Mamiya 6, with Tri-X or HP5, but I often will put a slower film in the IIIf (Pan-F, Acros 100, T-Max 100) and shoot more slowly with it. Accessory viewfinders and Cosina Voigtlander lenses are an excellent match and allow fine results. I don't have much faith in the older Leica lenses. Have tried an uncoated Elmar 50 and the rendition is at best fair, but maybe I have a particularly poor lens.

The use of the Leica film cutting template is I think unnecessary - you can simply eyeball the form and cut the film leader quickly, with a pair of scissors.

Bijesh Keyes , February 26, 2009; 09:24 P.M.


july 4 parade in Roundrock, TX

Provia is a great film. It's almost as saturated as Velvia. Great colors and sharpness.

Andrew Clark , February 27, 2009; 02:24 P.M.

I still have no idea why people cut the film before loading. I never had a problem. Is there some advantage or does it make people feel special?

David Haguenauer , March 06, 2009; 04:32 A.M.

I see excellent scans on this page. Where did you have them made, or what scanner did you use? I have had bad (dark, lifeless) results getting slide film scanned: is it because the places I went to used a minilab scanner that is optimized for negatives? Would it help to expose more than the box sensitivity suggests?

Anthony Darling , March 16, 2009; 05:58 A.M.

Ahh - what a delightful collection of memories.

My first Leica was a III with 3.5 Elmar I bought in 1983 for GBP 80. I still have that camera and take it out to shoot when I feel the need for a nostalgia top-up. Normally it is loaded with monochrome 400 ASA films, but last week I began my first colour reversal film - Kodachrome 64. I suspect in its early life (mid 1930's) most Leica photos were taken without the benefit of an electronic exposure measuring aid. For exposure measurement when I decide not to guess, or use the F/16 - ASA speed rule, I use a German exposure meter - the Gossen Profisix system unit - as big as many cameras these days.

I am not expecting the Kodachrome results to match those from my M6 (itself a 24 year old), but I am expecting them to show some character.

Personally the abiding memory of this camera is its compact size with the collapsible lens, making it easily coat pocketable. Oh yes and the viewfinder the size of a keyhole. Personally I have never found the Model III particularly hard to load; I have also found there is no need to replicate the film tongue shape accurately, as long as the first inch of so is of a width to fit the take-up spool.

As evidence that I am not a Luddite digital hater, I am using digital for most pictures, with an EOS 5D and the Leica inspired Canon G9 (see the Canon website). I really miss the instant confirmation of image that digital gives when I shoot film.

Kristina Kraft , March 30, 2009; 04:38 P.M.


Jamie's blue eyes

Using Leica with Fuji Provia 100 F is great idea. I tried Leica M6 with Kodak Ektar 100 and Elitechrome slide film. Now looking at photos made with the Provia 100F I found the similarities to Ektar 100. They both give the blue cast and bluish - purple skin tonalities. Personally, I like a lot these casts. So I will have to try Provia 100 F for the portraits.

Janne Moren , March 31, 2009; 09:17 A.M.

Now you got me to try Provia 100F - and slide film in general - for the very first time. I've only shot BW and a bit of negative color up until now; we'll see how this goes. As I understand, the exposure latitude is just about nil with slide film so if nothing else it'll be a good test of my metering skills.

John Coldwater , April 02, 2009; 05:07 P.M.


The intrepid men in their flying machine - Leica IIIa with Kodak E100 GX film

I have had my father's Leica IIIa which he bought in 1935/36, since my 16th birthday, more than 45 years ago. I use it regularly if infrequently, now, as well as his 1958 M3, and my own R4. But most of my photography is through a DSLR Canon 50D, with and without leica lenses. In February I ran a couple of rolls of Kodak E100 GX slide film through the IIIa, using an equally antiquated light meter - here's one of those images: http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=8883357 It is such a joy to hold and use such a compact piece of beautiful miniature engineering...

Justin Serpico , April 06, 2009; 08:35 P.M.

Provia is by far the best slide film on the market. Scans extremely well, is bold enough to make K64 look monotone, but versatile enough to take people photos. It pushes well, and is just a joy to use.

Every now and then I try Velvia or 100VS or something a bit more punchy and I always regret it. I always had problems with Velvia, and it simply cannot be used in high contrast situations while Provia does reasonably well when the need arises. The other thing with Provia, is it seems to have less processing issues. I very rarely get back a roll that I think was bad processing, while Velvia and 100VS seem to make me wonder if it was the processing.

I'm glad this stuff is still readily available, I cannot really imagine a film being much better than Provia 100F for many situations.

John Lovelace , April 16, 2009; 09:52 P.M.

Attachment shot with Provia by Leica M6. I like both Provia and Velvia but have settled on Astia as my general go-to transparency film. Scans beautifully.

Image Attachment: file5Wvy5A.jpg

Rick Beckrich , April 17, 2009; 11:02 A.M.

Changing screw mount (LTM) lenses easily.

If someone mentioned this, I missed it.

Before inserting any screw mount lens, set lens to its closest distance.

That way, you are not fighting the cam that works the rangefinder.

Dominic Richens , May 06, 2009; 10:59 A.M.

As much as I would like to own a genuine Leica, the Russian knock-offs can be had (from eBay among other places) for a fraction of the price and essentially the same experience.

I have a FED 2 (d) and a Zorki 4, both of which have the added benefit of normal film loading and combined VF/RF. Coupled with Jupiter 8 and 12 (50mm f/2 and 35mm f/2.8).

I do use them regularly when playing tourist - the process does shape the outcome as the photos always seem different than the DSLR ones shot at the same time.

Jeremy Richter , May 29, 2009; 11:27 P.M.


Canon A-1, 50mm f/1.4

Provia in 2004 in Copenhagen, Denmark. JR

Kurt Driver , June 02, 2009; 11:51 A.M.

Thanks Josh, for another great article. I've been shooting mostly in T-Max 100 , with occasional forays into sensia 100. All this on 35mm, but I just bought a Mamiya rb67 and am looking around at 120 film. I still will shoot that with mostly T-Max, I think, but for colour I was thinking of Velvia, just cause I've seen so many others writing that they use it. Does anyone know of any photo shoot-outs using slowish colour films? Btw, that picture of Jack, Beth, and the horse is really nice, it looks like Jack is uncertain about the big animal and is checking to see if Beth is concerned about it. Kurt

Bill (william) Paris , June 17, 2009; 07:11 P.M.


Scottish Daily Express Picture Editor

Josh. Picture Editor Scottish Daily Express. Leica 11 lens Hector F2.5 Year 1959/60. On the phone checking my request to ‘take a few shot in the news room’ Shoot first ask later was a bit …… The Leica 11 ,Leica 111 . Three M2s, lenses 21 to 200. All in working order. Bill Paris.

David W. Griffin , April 27, 2010; 10:57 A.M.

By the time I acquired a IIIf, I already had an M2 and old eyes and glasses, so my opinion of the useability of the IIIf was somewhat compromised. But it's still a jewel of a camera and capable of first class results. But I like the M2 much better to shoot with.
My first camera WAS a rangefinder though, a Konica I from my Dad and it too was a little jewel which had a collapsable non interchangeable lens and Leica like build. It's probably why I have an enduring love of rangefinders and the Konica wouldn't have existed without the Leica. These days my main camera is an M8 (can't afford the M9 and the M8 is a great IR camera).

paul bonnichsen , August 07, 2010; 01:32 A.M.

Josh,
Enjoyed your article on the Leica lllF and Fuji Provia 100F. I will most likely go to digital this year for my commercial photography due to no processing of E-6 in Kansas City as I need faster turnaround times to clients. I remain very loyal to Provia 100F and my Mamiya RB67 for my fine art... I've been shooting with Provia now for approximately sixteen years and find the results outstanding with this film.
Since I'm new on photo.net and have never posted an image, I'll give it a try with one of my images I shot in lower Antelope Canyon using Provia 100F.
Regards!

Image Attachment: 39 copy.tif

cedric muscat , October 07, 2010; 06:00 A.M.

Nice article!
Here are 2 images digitised (with a digital camera, so some degradation) from an M6 and a 28 mm on the French coast. The colours from a Fuji RM Sensia although grainy are quite pleasant.
The M6 loading is an improvement on the III but is still quite quirky.

Image Attachment: fileCfYYrl.jpg

cedric muscat , October 07, 2010; 06:04 A.M.

Here is the second image, details as in previous image.

Image Attachment: filefCnbvD.jpg

Jeff Livacich , November 17, 2010; 01:04 A.M.

Fuji has announced that Provia is no longer available in 220 rolls.


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