A correct exposure is a simple combination of three important factors: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Since the beginning of photography, these same three factors have always been at the heart of every exposure, whether that exposure was correct or not, and they still are today—even if you’re using a digital camera. I refer to them as the photographic triangle. Read More »
It's getting so we have almost an embarrassment of riches in DSLRs. From the Digital
Rebel's discounted prices, which can reach as low as the mid-$700 range, to three
professional überkameras (14N, D2x, and 1Ds mk. II), with lots of choices in between.
Konica-Minolta's new Maxxum/Dynax 7D, which has received favorable reviews from Michael
Reichmann on luminous-landscape.com and Bob Atkins on photo.net, looks like a
"contendah," especially in terms of low-light shooting with primes, something no
other manufacturer is likely to match anytime soon, if ever. And from Olympus we have the
only truly purpose-built system, the fledgling E series. I can't wait to get the word
about the Evolt, which looks to me like it's going to be a special camera. From Pentax
we'll soon have a nearly miniature DSLR, the *ist DS. The list of alternatives is getting
longer.
Still, I suppose we're all waiting for something, right? It's easy to get spoiled when
we're being served so many new choices on a regular basis. Personally, I'm especially
anxious to see the upcoming mid-level Nikons. As you may have gathered, I like Nikon
DSLRs. The D2h is still my personal dream camera, despite its now-meagre 4 megapixels. And
the D70 is perhaps the single most successful DSLR on the market, offering an
unprecedented combination of performance, features, and value that still hasn't been
matched by anyone. Well, maybe the Canon 20D is just as successful, at the next higher
tier of the market. It's also selling like hotcakes, although, unusually for Canon, there
have been a few technical and quality-control issues with it. No matter.
According to Thom Hogan's bythom.com website, however, Nikon is claiming it will have five
lines of DSLR on the market by late 2005. Right now it has three the budget champ
D70, the aging D100, and the D2 series. Assuming the D100 will be replaced, that portends three
new DSLR lines, at least two of which, presumably, will fall between the D70 and the D2x.
One of those is the one I want to see. Something about the size of the Canon 20D, with
85% of the speed and responsiveness of the D2h. Hopefully the new Konica-Minolta 7D will
provoke Nikon (Canon too) into providing a better standard of viewfinders we really
do need to jettison the "tunnel vision" of the D70 and the Digital Rebel. I
can't wait to see the "D200" or whatever it's going to be called.
You know, sooner or later all this is going to settle down. The market will begin to
saturate and growth will fall to single-digit percentages. At that time, we'll start
seeing a more measured, staid pace of product introductions, and more of an evolutionary
style of product design. But for now...well, enjoy it while it lasts!
A New System for B&W
My longtime colleague Gordon Lewis, who's now writing movies and television shows in
Hollywood and doesn't have time for writing many camera reviews any more, has alerted me
to the existence of a truly cheap, and he thinks quite good, alternative for the black
& white desktop darkroom. Good as the HP 7660 and 7960 are for black & white, you
do need to use HP's expensive inks and papers, costs that undeniably add up. And most of
us hobbyists haven't got the time, the money, or the patience for the involved and
complicated professional atelier systems of black & white printing.
The Lyson QuadBlack inkset was a step in the right direction. But you still need
dedicated profiles and the full version of Photoshop, which many amateurs don't have.
Now, MIS Associates, at inksupply.com, has apparently come to the rescue. Its new MIS
UltraTone (UT) inksets are available in warm, neutral, and cool formulations, for both
four- and six-color printers. The EZ (easy, obviously) version of UltraTone is made
specifically for inexpensive 4-color Epson printers, and comes in warm and neutral tones
only. But here's the cool part: you don't need anything special to use 'em. You can start
with an image in any sort of program that you can print with. Heck, I'll just quote the
website:
No Workflow Required EZN and EZW were developed for the [Epson] C82, C84 and C86
printers and do not require Photoshop adjustment curves. These inks are intended for use
by those that just want to make beautiful B&W prints, but either don't have Photoshop
or don't care to learn it. Any software that can print an image can be used. The control
for great B&W prints is built into the inkset when used with an Epson C82 or C84 [of
C86]. There are two inksets available, a neutral inkset (EZN) and a warm inkset (EZW).
These inks are available in cartridges or in bulk for Continuous Flow Systems. EZN and EZW
inks will print on matte papers or glossy papers provided the correct black ink is
selected. Use Eboni black for matte papers and Photo black for glossy or semi-gloss
papers.
You read right that means no profiles, no complicated workflow, no special
programs. Anything that allows you to see an image and that will go to a printer, you can
print even color files! That is, if you're willing to accept the default
conversion. Anything else, just put the image in grayscale via whatever method you choose,
get it to look right on screen, and hit print. Truly EZ!
The Epson C86 is cheap enough to buy for stand-alone B&W
printer. Photo courtesy newegg.com
And cheap? Let me just run a few numbers past you. I ran right out and bought a
dedicated printer for the UltraTone EZ inkset the Epson C86. After rebates, the
printer cost me all of $64 including tax. The ink cartridges, which I've ordered, cost
only $10.95 each, and since you need only four, that's $44 for a set. With this system,
unlike the HP, you can use any paper you care to try and one of the recommended
ones is Epson Enhanced Matte, a very good paper that's also far less expensive than almost
any other high-quality alternative. Finally, if you are willing to stoke up the printer at
least every day or two and churn out a few prints, you can easily set up a continuous-flow
system for only $190. A set of 4-oz. bottles, which will last most of us many months,
costs only $66, and set of pint bottles costs only $194. The pints will last dang near
forever, unless you print editions and regularly wear out your printheads. And even then
the pints will still last a long time, and at pennies per print.
How does it work? Gordon says great, and I respect his judgment. He knows a good print
when he sees one. He's sending me a few sample prints, and with his permission I'll post
one as an illustration here later in the week. If and when I start churning out UltraTone
EZ prints of my own, I'll get back to you with more detailed impressions.
Killer Digital Lens
As you know if you regularly read my columns and (especially) my newsletter, I'm a lens
nut. Have been for a long time. And I've used lenses from nearly every top-line
manufacturer (excepting, I think, only Angenieux and Kinoptik). I'm mostly familiar with
lenses in the range of focal length that I personally use, mainly 28mm to 90mm, with a few
outliers. Over the years I've "tested" (i.e., tried) many different lenses old
and new.
The process has left me with some definite "tastes" in lenses. Weight and
cost are important to me, for the same reasons they're important to most consumers. I
generally like premium, high-performance lenses, and I definitely like primes (single
focal-length lenses). But let's face it most of the best new digital-specific
lenses for DSLRs are going to be zooms, with only a few exceptions. When lens makers are
only beginning to fill out their lines, they're going to build zooms first, because that's
what most people buy.
I haven't been all that impressed with the digital-specific zooms I've seen so far,
although I haven't seen all of them by any means. The Olympus C-8080 has a superb lens for
a fixed-lens digicam. The 11-22mm Olympus E-lens is great, as is the 50mm macro for that
system. The kit lens for the D70 is a nice lens, although it doesn't really spark any
special enthusiasm.
Recently, however, I've had the pleasure of seeing some work done with a new zoom that
I do think is special, the Tamron 17-35mm f/2.8-4 Di. Actually, its full moniker is
"SP AF17-35mm f/2.8-4 Di LD Aspherical (IF)," and, before I go any further,
allow me decode that. "SP" is the designation for Tamron's premium lens series.
AF means autofocus, of course. 17-35mm is the focal length, which translates to about
26-55mm on a Nikon DSLR. That's about perfect for a guy like me whose "home"
focal length is around 40mm or its equivalent. f/2.8-4 is the maximum, or widest,
aperture; whenever you see a range of apertures like this one, it means that the max
aperture is different at one end of the focal-length range than the other. This lens is a
full f/2.8 (considered fast by zoom-lens standards) at the 17mm end, and f/4 at the 35mm
end. This isn't stellar for a 35mm film camera, but it's more than adequate for a DSLR,
which has potentially higher practical "ISO speeds" or capture sensitivities.
"Di" stands for "digitally integrated," by which Tamron means to
signify that the lens was designed specifically for APS-C sized sensors. "LD"
means that the lens utilizes ultra-low dispersion glass elements (it has one), and
"Aspherical" means it has elements that have compound shapes, i.e., surfaces
that do not conform to a section of a sphere. This lens has three aspherical elements,
which is a lot. Finally, "IF" refers to internal focusing, which means that the
lens is focused by means of moving elements within the lens and not by simply moving the
whole lens relative to the film- or sensor-plane.
The Tamron 17-35mm Di zoom.
Got all that? It's not quite all. Two very important specifications you also need to
know about are: weight, 14.4 ounces (440g); and price, less than $500.
These last two bits make the Tamron 17-35mm Di truly stand out. Virtually any lens
maker can make superb lenses if a) it can charge enough money for it, and b) if it can
make the lens as large and heavy as it wants to. Most lenses of this specification are, to
put it kindly, beasts. As in, big and heavy. This lens isn't. I know, I know, real men
don't care about weight...and yet you know in your heart you do, especially if you
practice a style of photography that has you carrying the camera around with you wherever
you go. Virtually anyone who has been in this game for a few decades has owned lenses that
more often than not get left behind because they're just friggin' bricks, and I don't care
if you're the Guvernator. I'm not a nut about small and light, but small enough
and light enough are plusses.
Most lenses of this specification are also pricey. Not necessarily a bad thing when it
translates to build quality and performance. And yet often, the price-to-build-quality and
price-to-performance ratios seem just a tad "off" with superfast premium zooms;
you're maybe a bit past the early threshold of diminishing returns. Not so with this baby.
Take my word for this, $500 for this lens is a steal .
None of this, of course, would mean a dad-blamed thing if the performance weren't up to
speed. But you know, as I mentioned, I've been testing lenses for years, and, as I also
mentioned, I've developed certain tastes; and at this point I can just tell when a lens
has got it. So what's "it"? Just an essential rightness in its look, a visual
coherence, a vividness. Call it sharpness, call it contrast, call it "3D," it's
all gaslight you can pick apart the technical specifications and MTF charts apart
nine ways from Sunday. But the fact remains that some lenses just have it and some lenses
just don't. (Even if they're "supposed" to.) The Tamron 17-35mm Di has it.
As with many zooms, you have to stop well down when shooting close up. Nothing unusual
about this. What is unusual is that the lens has a particular quality I
prize in any lens: it's virtually as high-performance wide open as stopped down, excepting
only depth of field (again, as long as you're not too near the close-focusing limit). You
will be pleased with the results of this zoom at full-tilt boogie, wide open and jammed to
its widest angle and takin' pictures in the available dark.
So is it "better" than any alternative? I really couldn't say, and, frankly,
I couldn't care less. It's a very practical lens with very high image quality and
excellent usability features. Feels good on just about any camera. And the look of your
DSLR files will get you up in the morning and out of the house, with your camera in your
hand.
Especially if you're using a Digital Rebel with the kit lens, run, don't walk,
to get one of these puppies. You've got a great sensor in your camera, and you need to see
what it can actually do. If you're considering a D70, consider this lens paired with
Tamron's 28-75mm as a two-lens alternative to the D70 kit lens. Even if you use a
considerably more expensive camera, I can tell you that you won't be disappointed. Highly
recommended for any DSLR with an APS-C sensor.
I hope this goes without saying, but I have zero connection to Tamron, don't own stock,
don't receive payola, don't have any friends who work there, don't have any reason
whatsoever to recommend one brand or make of camera or lens or anything else over any
other. But after seeing a bunch of files made with this lens, I went out and bought one.
Paid full retail.
I know, I've got more lenses than I need already. But some lenses I've just got to
have, some lenses I don't.
Mike Johnston
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