Matt K , Aug 21, 2006; 07:25 p.m.
I shoot almost all digitally now and love it. But I have to admit, I still
believe that there's a characteristic of film that's lacking in digital images
straight out of the camera... the film grain, the natural colors, subtle
gradation of tones, etc.
Digital is great, but I miss the natural look of films like Portra. I haven't
nailed down a way to get those kind of skin tones with my digital exposures.
Anyone have any suggestions for Photoshop processing or Plug-ins to get that
color neg look? Not even going to talk about black & white.
I've tried the demo version of the Alien Skin software, but it didn't really
do it for me. Any other ideas? Or anyone have any suggestions for applying
the right curves and other parameters?
Thanks
Troy Ammons , Aug 21, 2006; 07:55 p.m.
If you want accurate color, you need a balanced system, then create a custom color profile.
Edward Ingold
, Aug 21, 2006; 07:59 p.m.
What do you use to "shoot almost all digitally now"? What film has "natural colors"? Perhaps you could share examples of what you are getting and what you would like to attain.
If you don't like the colors and subtle gradation of tones in a digital image, you probably aren't using a decent DSLR, raw imaging mode, Photoshop, screen and printer profiling and/or a decent inkjet printer. Sorry about the grain - you need 35mm film for that. I'm sure you wouldn't like medium format film (or digital) in that regard.
Richard Cochran , Aug 21, 2006; 08:17 p.m.
As a start, compress the highlights and don't oversharpen. Uncompressed and oversharpened highlights are the most common obvious giveways that a photo was done digitally. Consider adding grain-like artifacts if you must, but film photographers have been trying to minimize grain for over a hundred years.
Giampi . , Aug 21, 2006; 08:57 p.m.
>>I miss the natural look of films<<
Film look 'natural' because we are used to that look. If you had started with another medium (like ditial) you'd be saying "I miss the natural look of digital".
What I mean is: when we get into new formats and/or tools it's best to learn how to use them for what they are capable of producing. Take it to the limit. The moment we want to 'imitate' one for the other makes it a moot point, IMO.
In technical terms it has to do with contrast and saturation. If you learn how to use curves you'll be able to imitate the look you seek. In addition, you can save the parameters and apply them to all you pictures.
Matthew Julian , Aug 21, 2006; 10:32 p.m.
Getting natural skin tones with digital is certainly possible. But I also find the 'problem' a little silly, given that you can still shoot film, too. By all means shoot digital, but if you miss film, shoot film!
John Painter , Aug 21, 2006; 10:37 p.m.
I use Alien Skin but you can't just use the presets. You have to tweak them...
Eugene Scherba , Aug 21, 2006; 11:49 p.m.
Unless you are adding to an existing set of film pictures in
order to hang them on the same wall, software that "emulates" the
look of film is somewhat of a snake-oil product.
Digital has the capacity of rendering much more accurate and
therefore "natural" skin tones than film ever had. But it is true,
digital does have problems. One of them is linear capture of
digital. Film logarithmically compresses the highlights, which is
akin to the way human eyes see the world. Digital, on the other
hand, often has the sharp "cut-off" look in the highlights. But this
problem can be alleviated by shooting in RAW mode and then using
software like Bibble that has an excellent set of tone curves that
compress highlights, combined with Highlight Recovery tool that
litarally "paints in" the blown out highlights. I found that this
gives a very subtle, specfific look to my pictures that some may
call film-like.

Shot
against the light on a Digital Rebel, processed in Bibble. Paris
2005, Copyright Eugene
Scherba
Steve Bingham 
, Aug 22, 2006; 12:36 a.m.
Actually, the film look is very possible with digital if that is your goal. However, you really need to focus on one film emulsion "look" at a time. Velvia has a set of parameters easily duplicated - as does Tri-X, etc. Basically, you need a strong understanding of PS CS2 and lots of time to practice the nuances. You also need to know WHY film looked the way it did. For example, Tri-X had a very long toe and the grain had exceptional accutance. It also had extended DR if developed correctly. Without understanding all this, duplicating this look would be impossible. This of course, would leave the beginner out of the picture.