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How to seal matte paper before applying polyurethane?

Frans Waterlander , Dec 06, 2008; 03:49 p.m.

I'm designing a board game, pegs and jokers, and plan to use printed images that I glue to a board before applying polyurethane or another sealer. I use Epson matte paper exclusively and this paper absorbs the polyurethane quite heavily and at a different rate so the end result looks very blotchy and unacceptable. Can I apply some kind of sealer to the paper first so the polyurethane won't be obsorbed? What would you recommend?

Responses


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Michael Hendrickson , Dec 06, 2008; 05:07 p.m.

I would try some different papers to find one that is suitable for use with the polyurethane.

Printing for a board game is bound to present different requirements than printing photos would.
 

Gary Woodard , Dec 06, 2008; 05:11 p.m.

Have you tried a second coat of Polyurethane? If you are not getting smearing with the first coat and it is simply a matter of absorption that the first coat of poly would seal as well as anything you could use without putting something on the paper that might affect the adherence of the poly.

Frans Waterlander , Dec 06, 2008; 05:31 p.m.

I currently have only matte paper and ink for it. A second coat of polyurethane isn't going to help since the first coat made such a blotchy mess by soaking in too much. I'm looking for a recommendation for a sealer to seal the paper surface so the polyurethane won't soak in.

Phil Jackson , Dec 06, 2008; 08:09 p.m.

Hi Frans, I used to be a builder, last year I did a friends kitchen, and on the floor she had natural Indian slate, before I could grout it I had to seal it, otherwise the grout would soak into the slate thus spoiling the look of the slate, I kept some of the sealer and tried it out on a print I did on some archival matt paper(pigment ink), left it for a day then, (you couldn't see that it had been sealed) I put it under water the water just rolled off and the print was dry after, anyway I used a sealer you can buy from most tile shops, it sealed the paper so when you put the polyurethane on, it shouldn't be blotchy. (the sealer is spirit based and very thin and clear and goe's a long way, just buy a small amount), I'm sure this will do the trick....phil

Bob Sunley , Dec 06, 2008; 11:41 p.m.

I'm assuming you want a clear semigloss type finish.  Paper is very porus and will soak up any type of finish or sealer.  You can't stop it from soaking up the first coat, you are effectively trying to paint a sponge.  Just apply a second coat and see what it looks like.  If still a little blotchy, a third coat will be required.   There is no way around multiple coats when sealing paper with a thin clear finish, I guess you never took a wood working course in school, or built model aircraft from balsa wood.
 

Fred Hawker , Dec 07, 2008; 12:46 a.m.

Laminate the images with 1 to 3 mil laminate before glueing to the board.

Brad - , Dec 07, 2008; 01:01 a.m.

I would try an experiment with shellac.  Not the kind that's ready-made - it sucks.  But make your own from denatured alcohol and shellac flakes. Maybe a 1 pound cut - 1 ounce of ultra-blond shellac flakes to 8 ounces of alcohol.  Best to experiment, even with ultra-blond shellac, you may get some added warmth.  Goes on easy, dries fast...

Roger Leale , Dec 07, 2008; 03:16 a.m.

I would recommend a coat of the type of aerosol fixative that artists use to protect crayon or pastel drawings.   I have been using it to prevent ink jet prints on Ilford Heavyweight Matt paper from fading, and so far it has worked well.  It is invisible after a second or so drying, and I have had some trial prints in direct sunlight for about three months now, with no visible fading.
Roger

Diane Madura , Dec 07, 2008; 11:35 a.m.

Hi Frans.  Why don't you try one of the "plastic" papers?  One that comes to mind is Olympus Pictorico PRO hi-gloss white film.  I believe Ilford also makes one, and there are other brands as well.


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