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This is mostly a comparison of the EOS-1N against my experience with the EOS-5,
so if you want to understand it, you'll probably have to read my
review of the EOS-5 first.
Right now this is based on one night's rental of the EOS-1n (for
the Halloween Parade in Greenwich
Village; it was raining and I wanted the AF assist light on the 540EZ to
light up).
Nikon F4/Boat Anchor School of Camera Design
My first sensation upong hanging the EOS-1N, Power Booster E1, 540EZ flash,
and 35-350L lens around my neck was that of the floor contacting my face. If you
want an EOS-1 with the vertical grip and the motor drive speed of the
EOS-5/VG-10, you're going to pay a big price in terms of weight. Personally, I
think I'd go for the BP-E1, a plastic battery-holding grip, and live with 3 fps.
One really nice thing about the BP-E1 is that it lets you use either one big
lithium or AA batteries for power.
Viewing System
The eyepoint/exit pupil on the EOS-1n are insufficient for this eyeglass wearer.
Even with my glasses off, I can barely see the whole frame plus the displays. The
Nikon F4 is incomparable better in this area, but the prism is visibly more huge.
I don't think the EOS-1n is any better than the EOS-5 in terms of eyepoint/exit
pupil size and in fact may be worse because there are two displays to look at,
aperture and shutter speed on the bottom and a beautiful metering scale on the
right.
One of my worst complaints about the EOS-5 is that I can't see whether my
20-35/2.8 is in focus. The EOS-1n has a slightly darker focusing screen and in
fact you get a little more snap-in/snap-out of focus at 20mm.
User Interface
I've grown to love the Canon user interface. It is much quicker than my old
Nikons. The thumb wheel on the back of the camera is truly inspired. However, the
EOS-1n vertical grips do not duplicate the main control wheel as does the VG-10
for the EOS-5. Even after just five rolls of casual shooting, this proved very
inconvenient. Neither does the Power Booster duplicate the AF sensor select
button.
The EOS-1n has a few things over the EOS-5 in the user interface department,
however. One is that depth of field preview gets its own button, sensibly located
exactly where depth of field preview buttons are on mechanical SLRs. That means
you can use Custom Function 4, which moves AF to the AE lock button on the back,
and still have depth of field preview available (something impossible with the
EOS-5).
Custom functions on the EOS-1n are much more interesting and useful than on
the EOS-5. My favorite, Custom Function 4, actually has three settings. The
default makes the camera work like a point & shoot or Nikon F4: AF is part of
the shutter release. Setting 1 moves AF to the AE lock button by your thumb so
you can AF and MF at the same time with USM lenses (I love those acronyms).
Setting 2 is for sports photographers. It lets them leave AF on the shutter
release but stop it with the AE button. [You can do all this on the EOS-5, but it
is split between two custom functions.]
One of the first things I disliked about my EOS-5 was that the finger control
dial was the aperture in aperture-priority mode but then became the shutter speed
in manual mode. The EOS-1n lets you choose how you want to use the two control
wheels and two shift switches to change aperture, shutter speed, and AF sensor
selection. Of course, now I've gotten used to how my EOS-5s work so I probably
won't change anything.
By default, the EOS-1n works in 1/3 stop increments for both aperture and
shutter speed, but you can set it for 1 stop or 1/2 stop increments. I was very
happy to be able to set it up to do 1/2 stop steps because that's how my EOS-5
works.
Flash
Still very stupid compared to Nikon, but not quite as badly engineered as the
EOS-5 system. For one thing, the camera will turn on the 540EZ AF assist light in
single-shot AF mode. Hallelujah. I got my $35 rental fee's worth.
Check out my rant in the
EOS-5 review if you want to know
what's still not fixed (i.e., how off-center subjects will screw you).
Noise
After the quietness of the EOS-5, the noise of the EOS-1n is startlingly loud.
Between the weight and the noise, I felt like a studly photojournalist with an
old Nikon F3 and motor drive. Unless you really want to run infrared film through
your camera at 6 fps, I think the EOS-5 and Elan drive systems are far superior
(they fog IR film, though, with a little sensor LED).
Rugged
Allegedly the EOS-1n will take a lot more rain than the EOS-5, which was why I
rented it. However, I've not yet found the limits of the EOS-5s in terms of water
tolerance so I can't say the EOS-1n is better. I've heard rumors on the Net that
the EOS-1n is designed for up to 1/3 of an inch of rain per hour, but who
knows.
Random Nice Things
The top LCD display has a little light for night photography. Rewind is
unbelievably fast. In exposure lock mode, the in-finder display shows you the
difference between what you locked and what the camera would choose in the new
composition; you can use use this to see the range of the scene (up to 6
f-stops). Built-in finder dioptric adjustment.
Random Bad Things
No battery level reminder, not even on power-on when the battery is getting
low. If you don't remember to explicitly check, you could end up dead in the
water.
Possibly Interesting
I'd like to try the RS version and see if I get better sports pictures. This
is the $2500 10 fps EOS-1N that has a stationary pellicle mirror. You lose 1/3
stop of light but the finder never blacks out.
Bottom Line
I'm not really sold on the EOS-1N. If you do a lot of nighttime flash
photography, if you want to play with the RS version, if you spend a lot of time
in the rain, it is probably worth buying one (after all, it is only about the
price of an L lens and you can always sell it). However, if you don't have an
unlimited budget, I think you are better off with an EOS-5 and a 70-200/2.8L
(about the same price as the EOS-1n and Power Booster).
Remember that the EOS-5/A2E came out in 1992 and Canon tends to replace their
SLRs every four years. The successor to the EOS-5 will probably be my new
favorite body.
Where to Buy
The EOS-1n
is stocked by Adorama, a retailer that pays photo.net a referral fee for each
customer, which helps keep this site in operation.
Special Note for Men with Small Penises
If you don't have or intend to buy at least $10,000 of lenses and are
considering buying a Nikon F4 or a Canon EOS-1 then you might consider seeing a
urologist and/or a plastic surgeon who knows how to do that new operation...
[If the operation is a failure and you absolutely must have a "professional"
SLR, then the Canon EOS-1N is a vastly better camera than the F4 IMHO.]
The back lit LCD on the 1N is worth the price of admission imho. I use a flashlight with the A2E in low light. The availability of both Canon and Beattie focusing screens with split image microprisms is another strong advantage in favor of the !N compared to the A2E. The ability to fully utilize the 540EZ, the real view finder shutter (for tripod work in bright light), and the availability of a nicad battery pack and a data back are a few other pluses for the 1N.
The 1N is also easier to use with the tilt shift lenses - because there is no on-camera flash to get in the way of the locking or adjusting dials, and because the 1N finder presents 100% of the image that will be captured on film.
Like Phil, I axiously await Canon's EOS 5/A2E replacement.
I just got back a bunch of E100S slides taken over the holiday with the 540EZ and the EOS 1N. I can't compare this set up to any Nikon stuff, but I put the gear through some tough tests, and I can't criticize a single shot based on flash exposure issues. I did a lot of bounce flash, fill flash, and flash with the main subject off to the side of the frame (with open area to the center). The 540EZ and EOS 1N combination was able to handle every situation and produce pleasing results without any "hot spots" or other typical flash flaws. My only complaint at this point (after one week's use) is that the pull out screen that is used to put catch lights in the subjects eyes, or for going to 18mm coverage looks pretty flimsy to me. Aside from this minor gripe, I am very impressed with both the build quality and the ability of the unit to deliver the goods.
Canon has announced that based on surveys of owners they have developed 19 additional custom functions for the 1N. Custom functions for the 1N are typically more complex than those for the A2E/5 in that they typically involve several possible settings, rather than just "on or off." The 14 custom functions that come with the 1N actually entail 35 different "settings" that you can customize.
Canon can add any one of the 19 new custom functions to existing 1N bodies. They can't add more than one because of memory limitations on the currently installed E2PROM chip in the cameras.
Two of the more interesting custom functions were a custom function to allow high speed flash synch with the 380EX, and a custom function to allow you to force the flash synch speed to a specific value when using Aperture priority mode.
There is a charge for making the modifications. Contact Canon if you are interested. If you want to get a copy of the list of new custom functions, it can be obtained from robert.scott@eos-magazine.com.
The A2E/5 has a battery charge indicator in the LCD panel, but with the Lithium battery the indicator is essentially useless. I've shot enough film through the A2E now so that I've learned the drill. You go through 20+ rolls with the indicator saying that the battery is full, and then in the course of one 36 exposure roll, you go to the half power display, followed by empty display, followed by blank LCD panel, and eventually on to dead camera. All these stages can occur in the course of a single roll, although if you're not driving the focus motor or using the built in flash, they may be spread out a little more.
My point here is that having the indicator on all the time doesn't really give you a lot of warning about impending battery failure. With the 1N you have to make a conscious effort to check the battery by pushing a little button, but with either camera, you better have a spare battery along if you are shooting with Lithium in the battery compartment.
On the bright side, Canon has all kinds of little features built in to allow you to squeeze off the last possible frame before you hit the dead camera phase. As long as the camera is able to operate the shutter and diaphram on the available power, you will get a proper exposure, even if the LCD panel has gone blank. In rewind, if the power is low the 1N will shift gears to reduce the power required to complete the rewind operation.
One other point. The problem here is associated with the character of the Lithium batteries, rather than with a flaw in the Canon design. Lithium batteries apparently hold their voltage quite well during use, but when they start to lose it, they lose it precipitously. One solution is to shoot with alkaline batteries, but you have to buy one of the extra battery packs to gain this capaiblity with any of the current EOS cameras. I don't know how the NiCds perform as far as this issue is concerned, but the external battery pack is the only way to use this kind of power too.
Canon now makes an eye piece adapter for the 1N that reduces the viewfinder magnification and moves the finder's entrance pupil out about 15mm from the back of the camera. Reportedly this improves viewfinder visibility for eye glass wearers or others who may have to hold the camera farther from their eye for reasons of facial geometry. This adapter will also fit some of the older bodies in the EOS line, but it reportedly is not compatible with the Elan II or A2E/5.
Just for fun I tried out the eye piece adapter at the camera store the other day. I stuck it on a Rebel G because they don't keep a 1N in the store.
As I've indicated elsewhere, I get along fine with the regular Canon viewfinder, and I have to adjust when I use an N90s
I did not care for the eye piece adapter myself and prefer the regular Canon finder. The whole view finder is easily visible with the adapter, but it is at a lower magnification, so things are harder to read, and detail isn't as readily available. Between the Canon with the adapter and one of the high end Nikon finders, I prefer the Nikon. In general, I have to admit that I prefer the naked Canon, although I could get used to the Nikon if I had to. I can see why other people like it.
I have heard from a Canon Rep that they are going to replace the EOS-1n and EOS-1nRS in '98. They will probably announce it along with the replacement for the A2/A2e at the '98 PMA. One of the main new features will be a 9 point AF system instead of the current 5. The new 9 point system will incorporate sensors for vertical shooting. I anxiously await the new system.
After waiting for the "new" EOS body for a year now, I finally broke down and bought a 1N last month. I thought long and hard about this decision and consulted Photo.Net frequently.
After one trip with the camera (and 8 rolls), I have to say that I am delighted with my decision. The 1N reminds me of my old Canon A1 -- the weight and "solid" feel to it in my hand is very reassuring. In fact, I consider the heaviness of the camera is actually a plus (Granted, I did not get the Booster, so we're not talking about the "Boat Anchor" that Philip refers to). It is a subtle and subjective difference, but I held an Elan II in my hand yesterday after using my 1N for a month...and wow, It was like holding a toy! I felt like if the camera hit something--even slightly--it would break.
I tried my best on my trip (to St. Lucia, btw - pictures coming soon...) to act as normal as possible with the new camera; i.e. I was not paying special attention to be careful with the camera. It banged about a little. It rained and the camera got wet. It got mud on it. I just took a wet towel and wiped it off and kept on going.
It is nice to benefit from other peoples' experiences, so I would like to thank all of you who share them. I have upgraded last November to the 1n, and I can say that I love the camera. I usually do not trust rumours of new bodies coming soon so I did not balanced my decision on that particular issue.
I can not understand comments on the stupidity of the flash system, as I have never had bad results with my 420EZ and several bodies (1000, 100, 50E). Results are now even better with the Metz 40MZ3i, because of better lighting quality.
Overall, I find the 1n has perfect ergonomy, especially with the booster, and I do prefer heavier to lighter bodies, they are more reassuring and provide more stability.
I've had my 1n long enough to want to make some
design revisions. In my mind there are some simple
software only revisions that could make the
interface even more perfect.
Of the three buttons on the top left of the
camera, only one has a dual function. The metering
selection/flash compensation button. While held
down, the back dial controls flash comp, and the
main dial controls the metering pattern.
If you could do the same thing for the AF button,
the back dial could control the drive (single,
continous, 10 sec, 2sec) selection.
If you could do the same thing for the MODE
button, the back dial could control the custon
functions, using the shutter button to cycle
through the settings for each function.
If then you did a combined button push of the AF
and MODE buttons (like you do with metering and
AF/MODE) you could have control over bracketing.
This would then move all shooting functions from
out behind the side panel, into the already
familiar paradigm of button/wheel adjustments.
The film rewind button could then live inside the
side door with the battery check, and the custom
function clear button.
These changes would make me even more giddy about
my in.
You make some very valid points. It is indeed a hassle to have to go through the palm door exercise to change some settings. However, I think that I feel more comfortable the way it is, because it is very easy to inadvertently hit the back wheel while pushing one of the three buttons and thus change settings without noticing it. One thing should change though, and that is the battery level indicator. I can't believe there is no low level warning (a flashing warning in the LCD would do it). You can end up dead, but then you always carry a spare, right? All in all, I still think it a very well thought out camera, and handles beautifully.
About "Special Note for Men with Small
Penises"....
Phil was mentioning this because there are MANY
people who buy EOS 1n becuase they heard it is the
best(and most impressive to show off) rather
than because they NEED it. You will be suprised at
how many people use EOS 1n with Booster with
28-105 F/3.5-4.5 lens(or something similar) and
that is the only lens that they own(even bunch of
guys who calims that they are professional in
Shutterbug Magazine do the same). My advice, and I
belive Phil's advice is the same, is to spend that
$1700 on a better lens or lenses and get a body
that is a bit less, rather than the other way
around. Better lens will almost always give you
better picture than a better body.
I do own lenses that add up to a quite substantial
amount but I don't own EOS 1n nor am I planning
to, as I am satisifed with a couple of EOS 5.
Yes, his advice is slightly exagerated but then
again that is how Phil writes his articles to get
his points across(also he owns the photo.net :) )
It pretty much boils down to this.
If you are not planning to buy a few pro quality
lenses then you don't need a pro camera.
Enough about small penises... I just want to report on something that happened to my 1N this past weekend. I had it mounted on a tripod and I was careless for a fraction of a second, enough for the very strong wind blowing at the time to make it tumble and fall bakwards, from about waistlevel. It fell on rough ground, with not even a scratch on it, except a small sort of cut on the eyepiece rubber. So now I know I can confidently drop the 1N :-)
The lens attached at the time, a 17-35 2.8, however, it is now with Canon for servicing, as it became sort of misaligned. Both rings (focus and zoom) are blocked, something to do with the internal helicoids (correct spelling?). So much for pro lenses (sigh).
I don't think my 1N will break. I'm sure I'd break an A2 (or N90 or 800i). Two A2s (one for backup) would weigh more but cost less, at least until the repair bills start rolling in. (Phil, have you broke your A2?)
Phil knows that serious photographers 1) spend alot more on media than equipment, 2) are always lurking around with a tripod, so the weight and cost issues are pretty minor.
I'd also forget the vertical grip. 1) I use a tripod (with the Fuji rotater, see their GA645 publicity), 2) autofocus rarely, and don't have an on-camera flash, so my expensive batteries last quite a while.
i bought the 1n (w/power booster) and didnt like it. to begin with, it was too heavy! now, i can already hear people saying "Hey..just take off the power booster", but then theres no vertical shooting button. also, when the booster is off, it becomes a vertically challenged camera. i also hate to take off something i spent extra cash on.
anyhoo, i agree that that viewfinder is small. i always shoot w/glasses on, so i didnt try to naked eye it. but the 2 displays seem especially hard to read while also trying to compose a picture.
next problem...the buttons are small, especially the exposure compensation +/- button and the CF button. i always found myself really having to DIG my fingernail in before anything would happen. tres annoying. on the elan 2, (which i bought instead after selling the 1n) the CF button is on the command wheel, (or whatever its officially called) and you just turn the wheel and set the functions. easy! the functions are also set by turning the dial . this is much easier than jamming away at the little CF button, which by the way, is inside the annyoing "palm door".
now, this may be considered pickyune by some, but i really found that blinking dotted line distracting. the other canon cameras have a solid pointer that lets u know where u are, exposure-wise. so who needs a blinking dot?
anyway, thats my review on the 1n. btw, i did go out and buy the expensive lenses it appears one must have w/this camera. guess what? it added to the weight of the camera bag, and i hated it, and got a sore back. so guess where the hot shit lenses are now...thats right..in the used dept at B&H.
Regarding the talk about dropping eos-1ns and
lenses.
As far as I'm concerned, anytime you drop a camera
or lens... I don't care if it is a pro EOS-1n or a
Nikon F5, or a professional quality lens, and the
camera/lens survives unscathed... Then you were
very lucky - period. No camera or lens can survive
actual drops without a good deal of luck.
The reason to get a EOS-1n and pro lenses from a
toughness point of view, is to survive the day-in
day-out jarring and banging around in a pro's
camera bag. Who knows what bits are going to break
off inside with years of fatigue on a non-pro
item.
But if you are planning to drop your equipment get
an EOS-500. They are cheap to replace, and I
suspect might even survive better with their
smaller mass.
Ref. dropping 1Ns with or without a lens attached, I was just reporting what happened to my camera in that unfortunate instance. Of course I did not planned to drop it, even though it's a pro-level camera.
So Chris, I was actually glad to find out that the camera has survived the fall, and I promise you that I will make all due efforts not to drop it again. I also make a point of reading instruction manuals, and the one on the 1N does say to avoid dropping or banging the camera around.
As for pro lenses, aka "L"enses, some are better constructed than others. I only have two of them, the 17-35 2.8 and 70-200 2.8, but the former is poorly built compared to the latter. Oh yes, I also know that I should avoid dropping lenses. It cost me around US$ 200 to repair it.
Why do you suspect Chris that the Canon EOS 500's
smaller mass would mean that it would probably
survive a fall better than an the EOS 1n?
Whatever the mass of an object it will accelerate
at 9.82 meters a second squared (approximately)
when the Earth's gravity is exerting force on it.
If for example the EOS 500 was to have a much
larger surface area, then this would apply, but
it's surface area is actually smaller than the
heavier Canon EOS 5, and 1n/RS. Take a feather
and a stone being dropped at the same time, we
all know which one will hit the ground first, the
explanation for that being air resistance exerted
by the feather's larger surface area. This was
proved to us in the 1970's when Alan Shepard did
this experiment on the moon.
Have you ever held a Canon EOS500? Ever felt how
cheap it feels in comparison to the EOS 1n?
Personally I think that a Canon EOS 1n would have
a much higher chance of surviving a fall than the
Canon EOS 500, certainly when you consider that
the 1n's mass is of course due to the stronger
materials used in the construction.
Anyway, cameras should not be dropped, they are
after all high precision instruments, and that
they survive a fall should be not be attributed
to their strength, but more as a miracle. Think
of the instruments in your camera, from the
aluminium alloy shutter leafs (very thin, and
extremely precisely timed), to the glass
pentaprism, any of which could be very easily
damaged by a fall.
yeah, they all have same acceleration but you are
forgetting that that doesn't mean it will hit the
ground at same force. f=ma. Force is equal to mass
times acceleration. They have asme "a" but they
have different "m", EOS 1n being heavier. So EOS
1n will hit the ground with much greater force
than a Reblel G. So it doesn't really tell us
which would survive better.
I personally own an A2E, which in my opinion, is a pro camera. Why do you people rate the A2E as being a mere toy? I have been ALL over the world and the(my) A2E has, by far, superseeded mine and Canon's expectations. I shoot for The National Geographic Society. This past May, I was supplied with an EOS 1n and it shot fine for 2 months. One day, when I was shooting on location in Hawaii (volcanoes), it completely shut down ( I had the neccessary thermal quipment).
I forgot to bring my other 1n(I was issued 2) so I had to rely on my own A2E. It performed flawlessly under those harsh conditions while the 1n did not. Later on, I discovered that the heat was too great for the 1n, even with thermal protection. I'm not saying that the A2E is better. What I am saying is that the 1n and the A2E are within the same catagory as far as i'm concerned. Who knows, maybe the '98 line will prove otherwise. As for now, my A2E will trek another 50,000 miles.
I bought a used EOS-1 from the classified's. Just in case anyone else cares about the differences, they're as follows: (1) no mirror lockup, not even the 2-second lockup that the lower end bodies offer (2) one focusing point instead of 5 (3) missing a few custom functions, such as the ability to set exposure in half stops instead of 1/3rd stops or 1 full stops (4) LCD lighting shuts itself off in bulb mode (actually, this might be true of the EOS-1n too)
I just wanted to add my experience with my EOS-1. I just returned from a week in Oregon, where it rained every day I was there, and it didnt slow my sightseeing or hiking and camera toting down a lick. I have an ElanII which I surely would have not carried most of the time, and my friends out there had a Rebel "drown" in less rain (they were having a fit that i carried my EOS-1 all the time hiking in the Colombia River Gorge).
All I am saying is that I was confident from past experience with the EOS-1 in rain that i wasnt too concerned with taking it along in light to moderate all day rain, and indeed had no problems with days of this. (I should also note that i have the rubber cover for over the control buttons on my body, and always carried the camera pointing lens down, but exposed). I wouldnt dream of doing this to my ElanII.
In regards to the A2 vs. the 1n, I used to own
the A2, but now the 1n. The A2 performed very
well, but its flimsy construction bothered me
from day 1. At the time, I was considering going
Nikon (N90S), but didn't have the extra money.
The A2 performed well until main control dial
became so hard to turn, I had to leave the camera
on all the time. I purchased the 1n last year and
have never looked back. Quality construction,
superb ergonomics and flawless operation, it has
many more rolls through it than the A2 ever got
before its all-plastic construction caught up
with it. The BP-E1 battery pack is always loaded
with nickel-metal hydrides and I'm still on the
original 2CR5 lithium battery that I use only as
a back-up (I think what I have saved in lithium
batteries has already paid for the difference
between the two cameras). No, I don't have
$10,000 worth of lenses ( a 24-85, 50 f1.8, 85
f1.8 and 300 f4L have been more than adeqaute). I
haven't seen a plastic surgeon, either. If I need
to travel light, I put the 24 - 85 on a 630
(which is built like a tank compared to the A2),
pack a 540EZ and off I go. The 1n has been worth
every penny I paid for it, and as time goes on I
will expand my selection of lenses.
I dont understand why ppl are so adamant on wether
the camera will break on a fall or not. This is
just part of quality. A big enough fall will
cause it to shatter. Besides that, I think the
EOS1n is a great camera. It is easy to use or as
sophisticated as you may want to make it. For
normal shooting, all butoons are available on the
top plates as is the LCD just like any simple SLR.
Start using the Custom functions and the Back
wheel and you can make it sophisticated. After
using it a couple of weeks you will be used to it.
That is if you are not renting it over the
weekend. For PPL who find it big, well after
using it ffor a couple of weeks, go back to the
small SLRs and your hands will miss the extra
padding.
The true comparison of the EOS1n should be with
its Nemisis, the NIKON F5. All I can say is that
instead of having a permanent motor drive, you can
strip the camera down to a very reasonable size
and weight, specially if you are using a light
weight 50mm lens.
As far as lenses are concerned, one can start with
a 50mm/1.8, 100mm/2.8 macro and get good shots.
For non professional work the 28-105 USm delivers
the goods. Anything else you can rent. It is
easier to familiarize one with a lens over a
weekend rather then a sophisticated Electronic
Professiona 35mm SLR camera.
I think its cute when Phil says he has trouble
confirming focus, but doesn't use a split-circle
screen. Canon makes a split for the 1N he doesn't
like, but not for the A2 he prefers... Neither
does Intenscreen, BTW.
I'd rather be color-blind than have to focus a
camera without a split circle. If you want to
manually focus an EF lens, the only camera that
lets you is the 1N (and hi-end predecessors).
I agree with Phil (rather out of context) that
old-school photography (manual focus 50/1.4) can
get technically far-superior results to new-school
glass. And that the best lens line for old-school
work is Canon EF. Therefore I think its rather
intelligent of someone with only a 50mm/1.4 to
their name to have a 1N hanging behind it.
Umm, its also cute how Phil knocks the 1N for
lacking the Nikon D flash metering that only works
if you use the flash exactly the wrong way (point
it naked at your subject). I've always had luck
with the 1N and 540 flash, either with a
lumibounce, or just bouncing off ceilings or walls
or handheld on the remote cord. The only shot the
1N+540 won't automatically get (that the saintly
Nikon D will) is a very light (or w/chromes, also
dark) subject matter, when the flash is on the
camera and aimed directly ahead. 1N users
instead have to gauge the flash-subject distance
and set a flash power that the 540 reports will
work at that range. (As you change aperture this
distance changes. I wish the power automatically
changed instead. Really a 540EZ beef but comes up
here because the 1N don't do D.)
I'm shooting more vertical hand-held than in the
past; still haven't gotten a vertical grip; still
haven't had to introduce my face to concrete 8-)
The weight of the 1N is oppresive with the big
glass Phil uses (35-350, 70-200) but is fine with
a 28-70/2.8 or 135/2.
You are all ignoring the things that suck most
about the 1N. You can't operate it while keeping
your eye to the viewfinder. The flash mount is
fantastically lame (or more to the point, the
feet on the current flashes that require 10 sec.
with a thumbwheel to mount and dismount). The
remote cable release is the worst connector on
any piece of hardware I'm personally aquainted
with, with the exception of... the flash mount.
(Well, screw-on filters suck hard too, but its
not the 1N's fault we don't have bayonets.)
In the end, I think the A2 is a better reportage-
style camera. You can load it with 800-speed film
and head out under nice conditions with a 3 pound
lens and get scads of pictures. The 1N is heavy
enough to tire you with a 35-350 or 70-200. You
either spend alot less time shooting, or spend
your shooting time with a prime, and take a
productivity hit zooming with your feet or
juggling lenses. But you can also shoot in the
rain, in mosh pits, and MANUALLY FOCUS the thing
in the dark (thanks to the available split). IR
also a possibility. If the 1N weight it forcing
you to use primes or the 28-70, you're also
putting much sharper pictures onto, perhaps,
slower film, and ending up with better pictures.
So I look enviously at Phil's volumes of photos.
Theres no way I could be so productive with the
1N. But about 1/3 of my photos wouldn't have
been possible with the A2 (either require manual
focus or the 540's great autofocus aid-light, or
were situations I could have broken an A2. Or
an A2 would have lured me away from the large-
aperture prime towards a heavier zoom). So oddly
the A2 is probably the professional choice. The
1N is more of a fine-art/push-the-envelope choice.
Funny, I don't know anyone who uses both cameras
on a week-to-week basis.
In regards to Frank Sheeran's comments about not
being able to manually focus an EOS A2, my
suggestion is that he invest in the inexepensive
Canon focusing screen Ed. He can probably find it
for under $30 and it is vastly superior to the
stock screen.
Another solution that no one seems to suggest is
the focus confirmation circle on the right hand
side of the viewfinder. It is very useful in low
light when you don't want an annoying infrared
beam illuminating a subject.
I have used an A2's for the past five years and
both have worked superbly and have proved very
durable in everyday work. If I could afford a 1N,
or perhaps even the EOS 3 I would still hesitate
as my current camera works very well.
I recently purchased a 1N after owning the A2E
for one year. I am not a pro photographer but I
never fully felt satisfied with the A2E. One of
the things I did not like about it was the dial
on top of the camera to change modes. The A2E did
not have the fit and finish on the pro 1N. I have
one lens a 28mm-200mm Sigma Ashperical lens that
I find is really rather good. I don't have to lug
alot of lenses around with me. I do intend to
purchase other lenses with a smaller aperture for
low light photography. I did like the pop-up fill
flash on the A2E because of the convenience. I
waited for a while because I too wanted a
replacement for the A2E. I purchased my 1N and
received a $100 rebate which was an inducement to
buy the camera. The EOS-3 was $1395 as opposed to
my 1N that I purchased for $1075 after rebate.
This was a savings to me of over $325. I sold my
A2E before they start giving them away and I have
not regreted it one bit. I used to be a Nikon man
and I have had most all of the Nikon's manual
cameras made. The 1N has all I will ever need!
The special functions are just that and you use
them when you need them. It's just like a V-8,
you don't use the power all the time but its nice
to have if you need it.
I have used both the A2e and the 1-n extensively and I would have to say that I have had far better results with the 1-n. As a press photographer I need durable equipment that can handle taking 20-30 rolls if film a week (atleast). The 1-n is considerably more durable than the A2e. Also, the fine spot metering on the 1-n is dead-on. The other nice thing is teh booster drive. Even when I don't need 6 fps the lightening fast motor drive always ensures that I can take the next picture as soon as I am ready. And as a press photographer I really appreciate being able to rewind an entire roll of film in only a few seconds. sometimes that means the difference between getting the shot or missing it. So if you are looking for a camera that can take a beating and give your very precise results than I would recommend the 1-n. But if you only whip out the camera on weekends or you are a landscape photographer I would go with the A2.
-Scott Barnett-
Eugene, OR
About the whole lens vs. body thing. I have to go with Phil on this one, but at the same time, I have a twist on what he said. First of all, he's right, a professional camera body won't "make pictures," however it does makes them easier and faster to take. A professional camera body will expand, not improve, your range of photographic possibilities. Secondly, yes, the glass is just about 99% of a good image. You get what you pay for; you reap what you soe...You get the point?
You buy a 28-80 f3.5-5.6, you get images your grandmother could take with a point and shoot (in fact, hers will be better, I know, it's happened to me). You buy a $4700 EF300mm f2.8 lens, you shoot a picture of a cow, and it's so goddamn sharp you can see the fleas on the cow's ass waving to you.
Of course, there is an alternative. It doesn't cost the net worth of a small third world country and it isn't a cheap zoom. Prime lenses! And not the L variety. Canon makes quite a few really nice, sharp, inexpensive primes. My system includes: a 24mm f2.8, a 50mm f1.4, and a 100mm f2. It's fast, it's light, I spent $1000USD and cover a range from true wide angle all the way to telephoto. The images are easily blown up to 11x14 with no loss of sharpness, and my wallet is not singing renditions of "nobody knows the trouble I've seen." Yes, they're a million times sharper than crummy consumer zooms. Yes, the L glass is sharper. But hey, who wants to see the fleas on a cow's ass anyway?
Well, I have been using the 1N for more than 1 year now, and I can truly say that the camera has helped me improving my photography, especially the following features:
1. Spot metering
2. MLU (I do a lot of macro)
3. 100% viewfinder coverage (no more surprises when I get the film back)
4. Bullet proof construction
Any camera can be improved, but all things considered, the 1N won't leave my camera bag for many years to come. It really is a fantastic photographic tool.
In our world, information is time sensitive, so I offer this;
I have been thinking about adding a new body to my kit before my next trip overseas; The EOS-3 and the EOS-1n seemed to be good choises. EOS-3 is cool, new, and has potential. EOS-1n is rock solid, has a proven record. But; today you can get an EOS-1n online for aprox $1150.00 pre rebate ($1000.00 with rebate), but an EOS 3 will cost you $1400.00 with no existing rebate. I wasn't an economics major, but I can figure this one out... 23 APR 99
I have the EOS 1n and it works like a dream. I just have one thing I'm not certain of, and the instructions never go into any useful detail on these machines...I know that when one uses the EOS-1n's evaluative metering it takes into account the selected focus point in determining the main subject areat, and consequently it suggests a more appropriate exposure. However, I have custom function 4 set (my autofocus set seperately on the star button). Will pressing the trigger still mean the metering takes into consideration the selected autofocus point (even if I don't activate the focus) or does the focus/exposure lock have to be together on the trigger?
An example: Say I take a portrait and have the camera vertical with the top focus point selected. If instead of pressing the 'star' focus button, I just use the full time manual focus ring on the lens, will the evaluative metering take into account my selected focus point... or will it just resort to overall metering as it would if I flicked the manual switch on the lens itself?? Can anyone help me out here?
My comments are directed to those EOS users looking to upgrade from an A2E or Elan 3 to either an EOS 1n or the EOS 3, or Nikon guys that are thinking about making the switch.
I have not been able to play with a 3 yet, but here is what I can tell you about the 1n;
I have been using my EOS 1n for a couple of weeks now, and I can say that it is much better than I expected- far better than the A2E or the Elan (I had both). I love Canon lenses and AF, but untill I got the 1n, the bodies felt "weak". Befor my eyes went, I was a Nikon man who got used to camera bodies that could double as hammers. The Elan and A2e just never gave me the same feeling that "all was well" when I was in bad places. Enter the EOS 1n. The 1n feels and shoots like an F3 but better. Heavy but balanced. Loud but crisp. Big but sleak. The feel of the camera is fantastic; I have to stop myself from shooting stupid photos all of the time- it is just so nice to play with.
The finder displays usefull information (the scale on the right shows the difference between AE lock and actual exposure- cool), but this is still the worst feature of the Canon system. I can not see all of the frame, or the finder info without moving my eye. It is cool that the 1n shows 100% of the viewfinder; but since I wear glasses I only get to see some of it! Give me a Nikon-like High Eye Point Finder!
The booster works. The A2e/VG-10 combo is a joke (sorry Phil). The A2e/VG-10 combo feels off balance, poorly secured, and adds nothing to the performance of the camera. The only thing it gives you is some protection if you drop the camera. The 1n/ BP-1 kit is seamlessly intergrated- it becomes part of the camera (and it frees you from weird and hard to find batteries.) Vertical shooting really is improved; the thumb wheel is still there for focus selection. Speed is really increased. You will have to throw down some cash, but it is worth the bill.
Flash? Still working.
Bottom Line; the EOS 1n is the best camera I have ever used. My A2e is already sold.
I have used the EOS-1n for a year now, and selected it over the EOE-3, simply because the 3 is too cheesily built for me. The auto focusing and functions of the 1n are more than adequate. The only thing I would critisize about the camera are the misplacements of the multiple exposure button (out on top of the camera, where it does not belong), and the drive mode select. Their positions on the camera are reversed. The designer has demonstrated his/her lack of plain common sense. The drive mode select should be exactly where the ME button is, instead of hidden behind a dinky "palm" door, which I feel like I will break off one day if I'm not careful. Other than that the camera is very exceptional, I like its heft and solidity, the reason why I bought it in the first place.
Having been forced to recover from pneumonia over this past two weeks, I have only now engaged in my first bought of internet 'surfing' (yes it took me until 1999) and came across the "1N" site. An observation on the 'toilet humour' penis commentary is in order.
I am, and have been a working photographer for the past 20 years. My succession of equipment has run, since 1979, Hasselblad, F2A, F3 (military service), F4 and ... then 1998 rolled around. While covering riots in Northern Ireland with two Nikons and 3 lenses, I was offered the chance by a Scottish colleague to try out his EOS1NE1/35-350. I promptly sold my Nikons and have never regreted it. My offense lies with your commentary about not needing the 1N unless you are a lens 'collector' - and if you are not, you are using the 1N as an ego toy. Look, I use the 1N because this is my profession. I use it 8 hours a day. Every day. I use it because I could NEVER get through a week with the cheap plastic toys that are sold in the average camera shop. I understand - and every working pro is painfully aware - that there will always be the pathetic, weekend wannabe camera club cowboys who are out there playing 'semi pro' "photographer"and taking over our livelihood with their cut rate snap shots and theatrics. But please, do not add insult to injury with your generalizations about the $10,000 worth of lenses. Because of the 1N, I now use two - 2 - lenses: the 17-35 and 35-350 USM. And, unlike you, I own - not rent - and am a 'real' phot with NO intention of buying an inventory of lenses. The EOS1N and F5 are excellent pieces of kit and far beyond what 99% of your readership will ever neeed or use. The small penises are found in the camera club set, not those of us who are genuinely out there on a day to day basis working at our careers. Please don't lump us all with these equipment fanatic losers who live in a world of their own imagining, simply because I and others work with one superb camera and one (or two) lenses.
Thanks for your column ... enjoy others found on F2, F3 etc. Great trip down memory lane. Regards, Philip Livingstone
I am a wedding photographer and I have been using the EOS-1 for almost 9 years now. Starting out back then, it was the dream camera that I had wanted. Obtaining it with the E-1 was more than a dream come true. It is (and very much still is) the only camera body I had used for all the assignments I have ever handled. Although it had "been through the fire and the flood" with me, there were only 2 "serious" times when I had to send my baby to Canon for servicing throughout these 9 years. Once for its shuttle curtain adjustment and the other for cleaning the autofocusing contacts. Other than that, it had served me more than well hitherto.
I have dreamed of getting the 1N for a number of years now but do not really have a budget for it. When I had, I chose to invest in lenses instead. I had given up my 28-70mm F2.8L which I had shot with for about 5 years due to its weight. I invested in the 17-35mm F2.8L and the 135mm F2.0L which covered the scope of my work wonderfully. The latter is the sharpest lense I dare state there is. Perfect portrait lense.
I do not know what the fuss is about the Nikon D flash system but the out-of-date 430EZ flash fitted with an omni-bounce has given me perfect results every shot! Coupled with the "L" lens, my flash prints have in countless occassions out-flash competitors' standards.
I know this is a thread for the 1N (which I have never used) but the fact that the record of its predecessor, the 1, which is without blemish, speaks volumes of an improved version. I still dream of upgrading to it one day. Until then, my humble EOS-1 will continue to be my reliable mate. So Phil, let's see if your EOS-5s can stand such a test of time.
Just about every Eos1n you'll see is equiped with either the booster or the batterypack. But the Eos1n in itself is a very small camera. Very small indeed. Used together with a small professional quality lens such as the 50/1.4 one has a easy to use, easy to carry, go everywhere and anywhere combination of great quality that will fit in a waistbag together with film, a filter or two and the map of the day. This is my favourite for travels when photography is not the priority or weight is. And if I want to be able to do much more remain mobile I'll add a TS-E 24/3.5L and a 100/2.8 Macro. Both small and light-weight. Now I'm able to work with most subjets and I still don't really need more than my waistbag (and a monopod or a light tripod).
The Eos-1n is small. And size does make a difference.
I just bought a used EOS 1N, having used a EOS 100 for 4 years. My initial comments after shooting two rolls with it.
Random nice things: Speed especially with the booster; 5 point selectable focusing; fast focus tracking; custom function to leave film leader out and CF4; a lever to cover the rear view finder during long exposures.
Random bad things: Palm door is a little hard to access to change drive mode; lock button on the film door unnecessary (as I have never accidentally open one in my 8 years of photography) as it makes it more difficult to change film; exposure compensation scale at right in the view finder is hard to view (I wear glasses) - they should have placed it at the lower side; no audio indication when the 10-sec self timer is pressed even when I had set the sound mode "on", no main dial on the booster like the VG10.
Reason I still chose the 1N over the EOS 5: it can fire the focus assist beam in flashes unlike the EOS 5; the focus assist beam of the EOS 5 is blocked slightly when we use a wide angle lenses like the EF17-35L; the command dial of the EOS 5 is prone to failure - as I read.
I think I should be able to overcome the minor inconveniences. Other than that the 1N works great and I am sure I will enjoy using it.
>>>Now that the word is out, does anyone have any preliminary comments on the new EOS 1V?
Benjamin,
It's basically an EOS-3 on steroids and pain-killers.
If you need the extra ruggedness or all the customizations available with the not-as-yet released software, or if you just like owning superbly made toys/tools, then it's worth looking at. Otherwise, IMO, the money would be better spent on either another -3 body or more and better glass.
IMX, it works like a charm, but there's no way I can rationally justify it in cost/benefit terms for my shooting any more than I could justify a Ferrari for commuting.
Interesting impressions on the 1N. I'm a beginning amateur (not a weekend warrior wannabe though), who found a great deal on this model on closeout pricing. I bought this camera for around 900 bucks, and felt paying a few hundred bucks more than what a 7 would cost merited expending the extra capital. I plan to buy probably the 35-350 lens for this, but currently I equipped this camera with the new 28-200 lens (EF). Does this make me a weeny wannabe? I don't think so, my girlfriend is quite ecstatic about the size of my phallus. I think it's being in the right place at the right time, and finding info on the web that showed me the 1N was worth it...
One thing I must commend Canon is for keeping in its pro cameras an analog exposure meter display which goes from +3EV to -3EV. If you look at the older style of needle based meters, there were so many cameras which would show you at least 6EV range (and possibly more), so that if I wanted to just scan my viewfinder for the exposure range, it was easy to find, just by seeing how much has the meter differed between the max and min. And this is very practical, considering a b/w film easily has range of 6EV. Maybe it is useful for color negative films. Best is that the same exposure meter is also available in the top LCD panel of Canon EOS-1. One does'nt have to look always through the viewfinder to see how light is changing.
What amazes me is how certain pro cameras clearly miss this: look at Nikon F4/F5, N100 and F90. F4/F5 have only +2EV to -2EV. But F5 does not even show it in its top LCD window, but only in its viewfinder. And it costs $2000! N100 is okay with +2EV to -2EV in both viewfinder and LCD panel -- same as its grandparent, 8008s. F90 shows only +1EV to -1 EV which is a pathetic range.
I guess this feature is not important to a lot of people who want to shoot in some kind of automatic mode. And in a world where pro cameras compete on the basis of how many frames-per-second and how many seconds to rewind a film! But I think this is the most fundamental thing a modern gizmo could easily display in its LCD panel and its viewfinder! I just hope Canon does not break from this tradition. Good Job.
I purchased my EOS 1N 1998. I haven´t had any problems with it at all.
It performs very well and it is very user-friendly. But there is one thing about it that I don´t like, the sound of shutter release. It´s not that it sounds bad or anything, but sometimes it just sounds too loud. People in quiet places always pays attention to the photographer. In documentary photography it is often an advantage to be unheard.
Even at concerts or in a church for a wedding,for instance, it is
a bit embarising sometimes.
I currently earn a living from Photography (mainly selling my stock to magazines and publishers etc). My current gear is all manual; A Nikon FE2 and plenty of prime lenses ranging from 20mm to 400mm.
I find that taking photographs with this camera makes me 'feel' like I am taking photographs and satisfies my thurst for photography. I still get the buzz.
I am however in a week or so going to trade it all in for a Canon EOS1n, 20mm 2.8, 135mm f2L, 200mm f2.8L, 400mm f5.6L.
This will enable me to expand my photographic coverage and take photographs of things that I have, thus far, been able to take. My FE2 has taken a battering and I feel it would be a stupid move for me to get an EOS5 or even an EOS3. I need to be able to rely on this camera so top line model is what I'm going for.
I've used a number of cameras in my time and have disliked them all for the first few weeks until I get used to them. I feel the camera is an extention of my hand I hate to have to think about where a certain dial is or what mode I'm in.
I'll give you my views in about a month once I've got past the "I hate this bloody thing" stage!!.
One more note. Lenses are important yes I agree, however if the body has broken it doesn't matter if they're £50 cheapy or a £6000 monster, it still needs a working body..
At 7 1/2 inches I figure my dick is pretty big, atleast bigger than most. And I know how to use it, my wife sure didn't marry me for my money. Before the EOS system I used the FDsytem and towards the end ofthat a T90 was my main camera. After switching to EOS I have had a 630 and an Elan7. Although decent cameras they do not compareto the T90. I ahve finally bought a 1n as I can't afford the 3 or the or 1V. To the poster above bitching about the weekend warrior stealing your sunshine, how do you think we get started? I bought the 1n to have a camera that will handle the treks in th emountians in pursuit of wildlife, and the Oregon rain. Now I feel confident that with my gear and my skill I can finally move into full itme Photography without worrying my camera won't make it to the first payoff. As a disabled caonstruction warrior what else is their except SSI. To hell with that, I'll steal your thunder! That just means work harder! As for lenses. I sold the 630 and two consume zooms to buy my 1N with E1Booster, and all thats left is the 50mmMkI and the 70-200 2.8 L, screw a $900 zoom if a couple of niceprimes will do! I'll have fun until I can get my 400mm IS DO. As for now, I have plenty to get started with.
After heavy use of manualfocus/mechanical cameras I switched to this AF body with pb-e1 booster. I can say that this camera weighs a ton to carry, but if you use it to make photographs it is imperceptible! It is a very reliable, sturdy, stable and FAST camera. A sample picture from the first test roll:
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=1811240&size=md
Thank you all for your attention.
After reading Phil's review of the 1n, I still felt it was a body worth considering. I wanted full compatibility with IR film, 1/8000 shutter, MLU not tied to the self timer, spotmeter, and the higher sensitivity of its AF system with my f/2.8 and wider primes. I also wanted a body that was highly weatherproofed so I did not worry about being caught in the rain. Well, 2 weeks ago, I was more than caught in the rain, my 2 EOS bodies were submerged. My 620 did manage to come back to life but water penetrated the back, wet the film down so that the emulsion stuck together, and created corrosion of the DX contacts. Yet my 1n body fired up just fine shortly after AND kept the film completely dry! No damage whatsoever.
Philip is right in that it is a waste of money to buy a pro SLR for casual picture taking with mostly ISO 400 or faster print film. But for me who shoots slides a LOT, shoots Technical Pan, and is often out in less than ideal weather, the pro bodies can prevent a mild nuisance from being a total catastrophe. In short, it was a camera that I now am GLAD I sprung for over an EOS 3. And if you have specific needs that even the EOS 3 will not address, the 1n or its successor, the 1v, is well worth the money. Otherwise, the Rebel T2 or Elan 7n will be PLENTY.
I brought a boxed 1NRS second hand 6 months ago, in the advent of Digital SLR's its a bit unique to go two models back and film.
For what its worth Nikon have announced that they are reducing their interest in film cameras!!!
I have an EOS 3 and the Digital EOS 10D. but not much can seriously touch the EOS 1NRS for moving Wildlife scenarios.
The 10fps is amazingly fast and produces a magnificent sequence of accurately exposed slide film.
Hooked up to a prime 300 manually focusing in RS mode its a serious performer for bursts catching the action.
Of course I would be better off with The 8fps digital EOS1Dmkii but that has mirror black out. and the quality is no where near as good
You could also argue that the EOS 1VHS has autofocus at 8fps with slide quality, but again that dreaded blackout.
So there you are, if youre shooting anything moving then this is the camera for you period! I have brought it specifically to get a job done, and with all the increase in technology in the EOS 3 and 1Va nd also the wholde digital game, this still does the job better, 8 years later!
only one Caveat- dont shoot it into the sun it flares wildly!
I was looking at getting a second 35mm body to go along with my Elan 7. I was going to get a 7n or maybe an EOS 3 used even. But I saw a good deal on a 1N and decided to bid on it (and won). It may not be up to standards like the 1V, but it will make a good second body for work my Elan 7 can't do (like infrared). And Im pretty hard on cameras so the build quality is good. And the price was good ($240 US) compared to used prices of $600-1000 on 1V bodies. I bought a HS grip to go with it. Its a heavy beast compared to my Elan 7. But its a refined camera and fun to use. I also bought the split screen to use with manual lenses.
I picked up a used Eos 1n RS from Adorama for about $300. 9 months ago I bought (used) what i thought was my dream camera, an EOS Elan IIe. The 1n RS is a body I'll take to my grave. It's heavy, but its weight makes it steady. It's intuitive and it's fast. What I like most is that all of the features I had come to learn about on the IIe were there, and even easier to use. I found the IIe to bury itself in Custom Functions. The 1n puts everything you need a couple of buttons away. I'm glad for my IIe education as it made figuring out the 1n a breeze. The RS has the pellicle mirror which is way cool. Being able to see through a shot is invaluable. Recently I was in NYC and rented Canon's 70-200 f/2.8IS for the weekend. When I went to pick up the lens, the clerk took out a 1n to test it. I pulled my 1n RS out of my bag and told him to try it on that. He was blown away. He'd heard of the RS of course, but had never seen one. I said, "Go ahead, there's no film in it...hit it." He put it on RS mode, set the shutter to 1/8000 and fired 10 f/s. He was impressed, and I gloated. With that 70-200 strapped on, I couldn't believe the results. The focus was truly "spot on" and lightning fast. I know others here say how fast the focus is, but it's true. Just walking down the street with the lens cap off, you can feel (literally) these two pieces working together, constantly focusing and getting feedback. I've never tried digital, and don't know that I will. If I don't, the 1n RS will always be around my neck.
Also, this body with Canon's 70-200 gets you places. People see these two items in your hands, and you can go places and shoot things others with over the counter cameras can't. No one walks in front of you, no one tells you not to go there....it's really something. If you have worked with any film EOS cameras and want to move up, the 1n RS is the way to go.