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Canon EOS 5 / A2E

by Philip Greenspun, 1997


Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge

I bought the EOS-5 after reading an article by a photojournalist in which he said that the eye-tracking autofocus gave him sharper pictures. He didn't have to jostle the camera with his hands to focus manually or do the "center the AF target on subject, press shutter release halfway, recompose for final image" Nikon dance.

Eye tracking never worked for me, but I still like many things about the camera.

Custom Function 4

I didn't fall in love with my EOS-5s until someone on the Net told me about Custom Function 4. This moves autofocus from the shutter release to a button under your right thumb. If you have a lens with an ultrasonic motor, you can leave the lens in AF mode for AF or MF. When you want to focus, turn the ring on the lens or push the button under your thumb. You make a conscious decision. If your subject stays at the same distance and you don't feel the need to refocus, you need not.

Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge AF turned my Nikons into enemies. You'd be tracking an animal in your viewfinder, about to take that great slide, and AF sensor would seize on a cloud in the background or a blade of grass in the foreground. You'd be cursing and frustrated while the puny screwdriver blade in the camera tried to rack the huge mass of the 80-200/2.8 from infinity to close focus and back.

Custom Function 4 means that you can have AF and still have the camera as your partner. The instant AF of the Canon in-lens motors is a nice bonus.

[Note: you need an ultrasonic motor to have simultaneous MF and AF. That's one good reason never to buy an off-brand lens for your Canon EOS.]

Viewing System

If you wear eyeglasses, you'll find that all Canon SLRs have inferior viewing systems. A combination of eyepoint and exit pupil size means that you probably won't be able to see the whole frame and displays. Even if you don't wear eyeglasses, you'll probably find it more difficult to focus manually with the standard Canon screens. Perhaps the Canon screen is slightly brighter than on a Nikon 8008 or N90, but with those cameras even fast wide angle lenses snap in and out of focus overall. I've lost quite a few pictures with my EOS-5 and 20-35/2.8 because the image looked basically sharp but wasn't (I would have had the lens set to MF for some tripod work).

Don't hold your breath for any improvement in this area. I spoke with a Canon USA technical expert and he said that they've been complaining to the engineers back in Japan about the smaller-than-Nikon exit pupil, to no avail.

Matrix Meter

I find Canon's matrix meter to be less intelligent than Nikon's. Bracket, think, and use negative film.

Vertical Grip

This is the kind of picture one tends to get with a second shutter release on a camera (this one is on my Canon EOS-5's VG10 vertical grip) You must have a VG-10 vertical grip. It duplicates the important controls for your thumb and forefinger (shutter release, main control wheel, CF4 button, and AF sensor select) and therefore the camera user interface remains stable relative to your hand even when you change to vertical format. After playing with this setup for one minute, I didn't miss the on-lens aperture ring from my Nikons.

Every camera I've ever owned with more than one shutter release has yielded plenty of surprise photos. Here's one from Cape Cod.

Playing blackjack in Atlantic City (New Jersey) A second shutter release is quite convenient when photography isn't allowed (e.g., in this Atlantic City casino) and you don't want to be seen with your hands on what the security people would think of as the controls.

Flash

Swedish biker. Manhattan 1995.

Stupid, stupid, stupid. Compared to Nikon and even evaluated on its own merits, the Canon flash system reeks of bad engineering. If you have an off-center subject and try to use fill flash, you will be one sorry person. Note the horribly overfilled image at left, where the flash was set to -1.3 stops exposure. A Nikon N90 would have done a perfect job here, computing the appropriate flash power from the lens focus distance rather than from how much was returned from an office building in the center of the frame.

AF assist at night is another area where the EOS-5 falls on its face. Since the camera has five AF sensors and Canon's accessory flashes wouldn't cover the full width, the EOS-5 won't enable any accessory flash AF assist light. Instead it turns on its built-in light, which is obscured by any professional lens.

If you spend $300 on a 540EZ flash, which does have a wide enough AF assist light coverage, the EOS-5 still won't turn it on. Canon's engineers didn't have enough foresight to build some room for expansion into their flash standard. Nikon isn't really a lot better in this respect; they bring out a new flash and new flash communication standard with just about every new body, but at least their stuff works. (The image at right, from Travels with Samantha, Chapter IV, was taken with an old 8008/SB-24 with none of the fancy D stuff, but it is still way better than what you'd get out of the EOS-5.)

The on-camera flash in the EOS-5 is basically useless. It isn't high enough to see around most professional lenses. You therefore end up with big shadows (see image at left, from my Footsteps travelogue). It would be very nice for adding catchlights to subjects' eyes when you were using an accessory flash in bounce mode, but the on-camera flash turns off as soon as you plug in an accessory flash. Let me add that one time in Costa Rica, the on-camera flash saved my butt when I was up in a tree with no other flash and a sloth crawled within 10' (see image at right).

To add final insult to injury, considering how many flash shots the EOS-5 blows, there is no in-camera flash exposure confirmation light. An old Nikon 8008 will warn you with a flashing lightning bolt that you didn't get enough light onto that last picture, but unless you have the 540 EZ and remember to take your eye away from the finder to look at the light on the flash, you won't know that you lost the shot until you go to the lab.

Quiet

The EOS-5 is the quietest SLR I've used. With the EOS-5 and a 20mm perspective, not only do people not realize that they are in the picture they don't realize that you are taking pictures. This has been a marvelous gift when I've been doing photojournalism and the only time it has been a handicap is during fashion photography. Models are used to breaking their pose when they hear the motor drive click, but even with only a 200mm lens they are too far from the EOS-5 to hear it operating so you have to tell them when to change expression.

Rugged

Cedars Market. Adin, California I have two EOS-5s that have exposed more than 600 rolls of film in 18 months. They've gotten wet in the Costa Rica rainforest, sandy at the beach, and taken some knocks, but they show no sign of quitting. The plastic case seems to absorb shock and hide scars very well. I've never had a failure on any of my Canon equipment (2 bodies, 7 lenses, 2 flashes). By contrast, my Nikon 8008 matrix meter died after a few months and a 20/2.8 AF lens suffered internal damage despite careful handling.

Avoid the A2E

Someone has a U.S. patent, believe it or not, on the use of a digital scale to show under or over exposure in a metered-manual SLR. Canon didn't want to pay this patent holder and therefore turns off the -2/+2 (in half-stops) scale when in metered-manual mode. You get just an over or under indication but have no way of telling how much without dialing back to neutral and counting. The European/Japanese market EOS-5 is not crippled in this manner. B&H Photo and Adorama in New York carry the grey market camera.

Note: Canon USA will honor the warranty on any Canon product purchased anywhere in the world. Since it is all one company, they are basically required to do this by state law in any state that has typical commercial laws. Of course, most Fortune 500 companies don't really think they have to comply with any law if the entity on the other side is a mere consumer. So let's give Canon credit for this. Anyway, don't let a retailer sell you an extra cost U.S. warranty.

Bottom Line

The EOS-5 is a fabulous professional-grade tool at a consumer price. It has its shortcomings and they can drive you to distraction because they seem so unnecessary, but I feel on balance that it is the best camera in the Canon line.

Where to Buy

The EOS-5 (gray market version) is stocked by Adorama, a retailer that pays photo.net a referral fee for each customer, which helps keep this site in operation.

Klamath Falls, Oregon.

Mt. Shasta from Klamath Falls, Oregon


Text and pictures (c) copyright 1991-1997 Philip Greenspun.

Article created 1997

Readers' Comments


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Frank Anthony Barbas , December 23, 1996; 12:27 A.M.

I agree with your assement of the A2e.

I am selling my entire Canon system and going back to my Bronica ETRS.

The autofocus system in the end was turned off completly. I was using a 300mmf4l lens with a 2x converter, the autofocus did not work. Doing some macro work with ext. tube and 28-105 the autofocus did not work. Shooting verticals with the eye control did not work. The last straw was the depth of field mode, great concept, lousy implementation, the camera only remebers the proper focus point for 6 seconds, tried composing a scenic shot in six seconds lately?

Glen Johnson , December 26, 1996; 12:24 P.M.

I think that the EOS 5/A2E is a great camera, in spite of the fact that I went to the 1N when I decided to pick up a second body. I love the eye selected focus point feature. I had to calibrate for each lens in several lighting conditions, but since doing this I can't think of a single time that this feature hasn't worked and worked quickly. I also like the eye activated depth of field capability, although I would rather have a dof preview "button" like the one on the 1N. With the eye selected depth of field preview, you don't lose the dof preview capability when you've moved the autofocus activation to the CF button with custom function 4. If you move the auto focus activation with custom function 4, you only get auto focus when you want it. This can be a real advantage. The "idiot" program settings (like sports, portraits, landscapes, etc.) are great when another family member wants to have a camera for an activity.

Other advantages of the 5/A2E are that it is very light weight, but still quite rugged. The body geometry "fits" my hands better than any other camera body that I've ever picked up. The control layout is an ergonomic dream. The VG-10 vertical grip is the best vertical grip accessory that's ever been produced. The 5/A2E offers superb film advance and rewinding capabilities. It will advance at the rate of 1 shot, 3fps, or 5fps without any "add on" equipment required. You can either have fast and silent rewind or very fast and nearly silent rewind. It is a very quiet shooter as well. Mirror and shutter noise are the lowest I have ever experienced on an SLR. The only negative comment that I would make about the 5/A2E is that there are so many features, it takes a major effort to come up to speed to fully exploit the camera. On the bright side, to just "use" the camera is fairly simple. There are so many neat ways that you can customize this body to suit your own particular quirks, that most technically competent people who are sufficiently patient should be able to turn it into a serious work partner.

The reasons that I didn't buy a second 5/A2E but bought the 1N as my second body instead include the following: 1. 1N has real split image micro prism focusing screens available. 5/A2E does not. I like the split image screen for manual focus (like with tilt shift lenses). 2. 1N has a back lit LCD panel. This is a feature that I really enjoy because it allows me to read the panel in relatively low light without grabbing a flashlight or putting on my reading glasses. (The extra light causes my eye to "stop down" and this gives my eye enough dof to get a sharp focus on the letters in the display). 3. The 1N has a real dof preview button. 4. The 1N is even more ruggedly built (at the expense of extra noise and extra weight). 5. The 1N will turn the 540 EZ auto focus assist light on, where the 5/A2E will only use the auto focus assist light that is built into the camera body. The auto focus assist light that is built into the 5/A2E is easily blocked by L series lenses. The auto focus assist light on the 540EZ will actually correspond to the focus point that you've selected. It works extremely well, even in very dark settings. The 1N and 540EZ together are a heavy, but awesome duo for flash photography. 6. The 1N fits the tilt shift series of lenses better because it has no built in flash. The tilt shift lock and adjust knobs can be accessed and used with the 5/A2E, but the built in flash gets in the way of fat fingers, fingers with gloves on, etc.

When you consider that the A2E is only $625 after rebate right now, and that the 1N is $1300 after rebate, the list above wouldn't make many people go to the 1N over the A2E. As for the difference between the 5 and the A2E, the differences are modest and there is no rebate on the 5, so it will cost you $75 more. The extra features on the 5 are likely to be worthwhile for some users, but for those on a budget, the $75 would be better directed toward a tripod.

The fact that the 5/A2E remains high on the list of "best cameras" whenever such lists are compiled, in spite of the fact that it is now over 4 years old, is a testament to the excellent work of Canon's design and manufacturing team. When Canon introduces a replacement body (probably in 1997), the 5/A2E will be a tough act to follow.

Hubert Wachter , February 14, 1997; 02:09 P.M.

Concerning off-center flash subjects: Are you sure that you haven't fallen for the "classic" mistake like a lot of other people? The EOS 5/A2E pruduces perfect results with off-center subjects - given that you know how it works. The EOS 5 has a 3 field TTL sensor (left, middle, right) and when in full automatic mode (no ECF, all focussing points selected) will pick the apropriate field according to the position of the AF-sensor it used. HOWEVER: If you are using ECF and are thus selecting the far left AF-sensor the EOS 5 wil *NOT* use the left TTL field! It'll use the center field. Neither TTL-measuring nor spot measuring are coupled to the selected AF-sensor when the sensor is chosen by ECF! This is one of the major drawbacks of the ECF system in it's EOS 5 form. So if you want off-center subjects to be correctly exposed you have either to set the AF-sensor selction to automatic (no ECF) or select the AF-sensor you want to use manually (by pressing the "ooooo" button and turning the main dial). Regards, Hubert.

John A. Klein , August 09, 1997; 05:21 A.M.

Having used an A2e for 3 1/2 years in some of the harshest conditions imaginable, I still have to give it an A+. I had an F4, which I found to be inadequate in many areas for my needs. I shoot a lot of EMS & fire scenes, and the A2e's ability to hold focus is a must, as is the eye-controlled focusing system and the flash head IR assist. I have dropped mine at least 4 times, usually with a 300mm lens on it (once from horseback), taken it sailing, smokejumping, climbing, rain and sand and it still preforms flawlessly. It's going to take some very strong features on the newest Canon or Nikon to drag me away from my trusty A2e.

Russ Arcuri , August 18, 1997; 10:38 A.M.

I just wanted to give my 2 cents about the A2 body. I used an original Elan (not the II model) exclusively for almost 4 years before buying an A2 + the VG-10 vertical grip recently. I bought the A2 for many reasons, some of which are:

  1. I wanted a vertical grip (none for Elan);
  2. I wanted a spot meter (Elan has 6.5% partial);
  3. I wanted flash exposure compensation with external flashes;
  4. I wanted wide area focusing (5 points on A2, 1 on Elan);
  5. I wanted a more intelligent matrix meter (16 segment linked to focus point and orientation in A2, 6 segment in Elan);
  6. I wanted a higher frame rate for action shots.
Anyhow, after using it for a few weeks I must say that I love it. (And I say this after having played with a Nikon F5 in a store a few days ago. Minor rant: Yes, the F5 is a fine camera, but who designs a $3,000 body and doesn't include the same controls for vertical use as for horizontal? End rant.) Unlike the Elan, the A2/VG-10 combo really feels like a pro tool, and it fits my (rather large) hands much better than the Elan ever did.

The A2 has a few other nice touches for those used to using lower-end bodies. The mirror blackout is noticeably shorter than with the lower frame-rate bodies. (Think this doesn't make a difference? I thought so too until I shot a few rolls with the A2 and the Elan both hanging from my neck. The Elan's lengthier mirror blackout started to become mildly annoying to me.) The A2's silent rewind mode is very nearly silent; it won't be heard in most shooting situations. The A2 also seems to lock focus quicker than the Elan.

I don't really have the time or inclination to do a full review of the A2 - Philip's review of the EOS-5 is more than adequate. But suffice it to say I think it's the best camera body I've ever had the pleasure of using. This is quite a compliment considering it's a 5 year old design now.

Bill Meyer , August 26, 1997; 01:11 P.M.

I have an EOS A2 that I find absolutely wonderful. It's autofocus feature is the best I've ever used. I have heard from inside information that Canon will be replacing the current A2/A2e with a new model at the '98 PMA. I look forward to the newly designed replacement. They will offer an eye focus only model probably designated the A3e. My wish is that they would eliminate the built in IR flash sensor on the body and leave it to the accessory flash units IR sensor. Make the controls/functions easier to use (the Minolta 600si controls are the best I've seen yet) and allow the AEL feature to last indefinitely rather than the current six seconds, and offer a vertical grip that can handle a seperate battery system (i.e. 4 AA's).

Whatever Canon ends up doing I'm sure it will be superb.

Piaw Na , August 28, 1997; 07:12 P.M.

According to the British Magazine Photo Technique, the new Canon camera to debut in April '98 is slated to sit between the EOS-5 and the EOS-1N, competing with the Nikon 90 (sic!).

It's primary features are apparently to be: 1. 97% viewfinder (!!) 2. 11 focus selection points (eye-controlled), both horizontal and vertical. 3. finer spot meter

Canon would apparently introduce some new lenses along with this new body.

It sounds like an awesome camera. I hope it's not too heavy!

John Song , October 15, 1997; 02:43 A.M.

The differences between the EOS 5 and the A2E are the meter display under the manual mode, automatic flash popup under full automode w/ EOS 5, and the focus confirmation beep w/ EOS 5(which you can turn off if you wish). I own a EOS 5QD which is a EOS 5 w/ an date back. I never use the date back but I am glad that I have it :) I've actually paid less for the EOS 5QD than the EOS A2E. People really need to go w/ EOS 5(QD) instead.

EOS 5 is a fine camera. I use it for mostly photojournalism stuff for few newspapers and nature stuff for my own hobby and it's been holding up well despite of all the abuse.

Here is what I don't like about this camera. The flash is almost useless. All my zoom lenses will block the flash at shorter ends(like Canon 28-70 F/2.8 and 70-200 F/2.8). I wish that Canon spent that extra money on the bigger view finder instead of giving it a on camera flash. I much prefer having bigger view finder(close to 100%) than having a cheap on camera flash. EOS 1n does not have a builtin flash but has 100% view finder.

AE lock button still works under custome function 4, which let you move the AF to a AE lock button. I don't always shoot the same light that I focused on. If I've focused on a subject then the light changes, the exposure will not read the new one unless you refocus the subject again. Bad thing. (same deal if you are using DOF on the AE lock button)

As you've known already, the eye controled focus does not work vertically.

w/ my 430EZ flash, the IR focus help light does not light up. Same w/ 540EZ. Bad thing.

Well besides that, it is an excellent camera. It is on the par with N90s but cheaper and with some stuff that are more useful(like 5 focusing points, full control vertical grip and etc)

Only reason why I would go with EOS 1n is because 1n has a 100% view finder and a faster AF and FPS under Al Servo, which I find it usefull when I shoot football games.

If you hear anything good about this camera, it is all true. If you hear anything bad about this camera, besides what I've mentioned above, it is all lie :)

Go get yourself one :)

john

Tony Torres , November 19, 1997; 08:19 A.M.

I want to say that my Eos A2 has been quite a good camera. I have shot over 200 rolls in less than a year and the camera still works like a beaut. I have read about a guy switching back to his bronica, I want to say that everyone should stay in one kind of format with what you feel more comfortable with, because if you started with a medium format and your comfortable with it, well be it. Now I would like to have a sinar 4x5, a mamiya Rz 2 and keeping my Eos A2 and getting a second body like the Eos 1n Rs, why I want to have all three of these format because when you are a photographer you will need different kinds of format the 4x5 for your still life photography, the mediam format for fashion, landscape, etc 35mm for photojournalism, sports, fashion, and quick photographs that you wouldn't get when you carry a honk of a camera like a bronica, mamiya, or pentax. I want to say that my Eos A2 has been a great camera. Let me tell you a story when I was shooting in NY city. I was just finishing shooting my 50th roll when the battery meter started to blink and still blinking it was shooting. Now I want to see a Nikon beat that, I was still getting excellent exposures because when I had my last roll develop I was surprise with the exposure that have gotten after all the juice that was being taken from the battery. I want to say that have been very satisfied with my Eos and I will think of getting another Eos.

Martin Kluge , December 24, 1997; 10:47 A.M.

I own an EOS 1N and a EOS 5. I make photos here in Mexico and from time to time in very hot and humide climats. I never had a prob with my EOS 1N ... but under these conditions ( I think it has to do with humidity) my EOS 5 gave up. It cost me nearly 250 $ to repair it. In some newsgroups I read as well about humidity probs of the EOS 5. The EOS 1N is for me the far more robust system.

Dave Herzstein , January 27, 1998; 03:07 P.M.

I had my A2E reprogrammed as an EOS 5 at my local repair shop. Mine was the first one he had attempted; I had to convince the owner that if the circuit board got "fried" he would not be responsible. Anyway, no problems; I'm now looking forward to utlizing the manual metering scale. :-) I was charged the minimum repair rate of $40 and the job took 15 minutes, including re-calibration of the meter.

Since my repair shop is a Canon authorized service center they had the programing gear (which I think is also required for meter and timer adjustments). Most shops probably wouldn't.

  • Horizon Electronics
  • 3961 Horner St.
  • Union City, CA
  • (800) 233-6169

If interested, you might look up your local Canon repair facility and ask them first.

-Dave

Gerald F. Napoles , February 15, 1998; 10:39 P.M.

I am interested in purchasing either a Minolta 800si or a Canon A2 or A2e. Will you please tell me from your personal experiences with cameras which one is the more reliable and cost efficient. I am currently using a Minolta 400si and feel I need to update in less than two years. Thank you.

Paulo Bizarro , March 20, 1998; 09:06 A.M.

Regarding Phil's coments on the flash system, don't believe them, but rather read the instruction manual, a thing I suspect Phil never did, as he first learned about CF4 on the net... Perhaps he was in a bad mood when he wrote it, beacuse he must be the only one who dislikes the EOS5. I have never owned one, because at the time I opted for the 100, but I have used it a fair bit on ocasions. It is a nice camera, perhaps one of the best ever from Canon, and it might be a future classic, as the 600 is. Of course ECF does not work in vertical, but it is not supposed to in the 5. One is supposed to get information on a camera and try it before buying it...

Warren Chapman , June 22, 1998; 07:20 P.M.

I have used an A2E for about one year. Previous to the A2E I used a series of Minolta Maxxums, including the Maxxum 9000 and the 700si. I have also used a Nikon f4s often when I shoot for a non-profit which has this equipment.

I shoot primarily travel and editorial subjects. I switched to Canon because of the quicker, more silent autofocus and rewind and the eye controlled focus. I'm 53 and the eyes are going. I generally like the cameras overall quality and near-silent operation, but must admit that I have a number of complaints. After one year of use, I find that I generally have less confidence in my exposures than I did with the Minoltas and Nikons. Whenever I know I will be using the flash a lot, I prefer the Nikon

I have not been able to get the eye-control focus to work consistantly and reliably with my various lenses which are only , at this time, three zooms (20-35), (28-105), (75-300IS). I wear eyeglasses. Perhaps this contributes to the problem, but I was told the camera could handle this.

2. My pop-up flash only works intermittently. I like to use it for fill in quick location candids. There is a small sensor which apparantly sticks when I use the larger flash in the hot shoe. When it sticks, the built-in flash will not come up.

3. I hate the loss of the metering scale which disappears when the camera is placed in manual mode. I understand this is not a problem with the European version (EOS5). Apparantly, Canon had to pay royalties to someone to use the scale in manual mode in the US and wouldn't pay, so they dropped the convenient 3 stopj over/under scale for a dumb little plus/minus symbol that gives you no clue as to how close or over/under, you may be to the metered exposure. This makes metering in manual mode very awkward. My advice to everyone is to buy the non-US version.

4. The camera consumes batteries quite quickly with serious use, especially with the image stabilization lens in use and has no auto-off timeout if unused. It must be turned off manually. Absent minded professors, like me, must carry a lot of extra batteries. The lithium battery is expensive and not readily availabe, as AA's are. (Just try finding a CR5 lithium in Guatamala or Morocco.) The vertical grip doesn't accept batteries of any kind (another serious oversight) giving no opportunity for additional power or alternative use of AA's rather than the CR5 lithium battery.

5. The electronic cable release attachment point is smack in the middle of the hand-grip, a very poor design. With the cable attached to the camera, where do you grab the camera for adjustments, by the handgrip, of course, but the bulky cable plug is now jabbing you in the palm of the hand. When shooting in low light situations I sometime like to keep the cable attached to the camera and then quickly put the camera onto a tripod (with quick release) The cable is in the way of even holding the camera in your hand.

I wanted to like the camera. I love the quiet silky focusing, and image sabilazaion is a wonderful (if power consuming) technology. The eye-controlled focus sounds great and I continue to try to use it (I want it to work, but I find a spend a lot of time trying to achieve focus, watching the little red frames in the viewfinder. Often I miss the shot I want while I'm waiting the get just the right little square to light up confirming focus.

I also find that I miss the "on-demand" spot metering button of my Minolta 700si. It's so convenient to take general meter reading of my scene and then press the button to spot meter the range of shadows and highlights in my fra. If only the scale wasn't in the Minolta's viewing frame this would be the perfect spot metering tool) Canon had a spot metering button on the T-90 but dropped it (Why???) with the EOS-1 and all later EOS cameras.

(Canon, please note: bring back the spot metering button and the lighted,full metering scale available in ALL modes).

Chris Bitmead , June 22, 1998; 11:10 P.M.

Me thinks that Frank Barbas is talking a lot of nonsense about his return to Bronica ETRSi from Canon.

He complains about lack of AF with a 300/4 and 2x convertor on Canon. But the equivilent lens on his Bronica would be a 450mm/4 w/2x convertor. Such a lens does not exist. The closest he would get is the 500mm f/8 losing 2 stops. If that doesn't worry him, then it would cost about the same as a Canon 300/f2.8 which _would_ have retained AF. In fact it would cost double if he shelled for the Bronica Flourite version to compete with the flourite filled Canon. And the Canon would have given him _three_ extra stops!

As for AF with the 28-105 + tubes for macro. No-one in their right mind uses AF for macro. I'm an AF hog and have a USM macro lens, but I wouldn't think of using AF for macro work.

As for Depth of Field mode switching off after 6 seconds, it seems to be a good way of working to me. If you don't want the camera to re-focus, then slide the AF switch to "off". Seems fine to me.

Paulo Bizarro , June 24, 1998; 06:08 A.M.

Well, I finally did it, that is, I bought a EOS 5. I have known and used this camera on occasions, for the past 5 1/2 years. I have been having some sort of affair with the EOS 5, because that was the camera I wanted when I bought the 100 in 1992, or when I traded the latter for the 50E in 1995. However, at the time I could not afford it. I thought I had forgotten the whole business when Santa brought me the 1N, but apparently I was mistaken. Last week I saw this brand new EOS 5 with VG10 grip at my local Canon dealer, for a really good price. Almost 6 years later, I was unable to resist it.

So for all of you people who are waiting for the new (non-digital and non-APS) EOS camera, my advice is quite simple, get the EOS 5, it has everything you will ever need and then more.

Scott Simmons , July 11, 1998; 05:45 A.M.

Re: Phil Barbas comments I thought it was pretty common knowledge that autofocus systems(regardless of Manufacturer) need at least a f5.6 or larger to function. But not after reading Phils comments. Mr. Phil for your info because obviously you haven't read any books on Photograhy in the past 10 years, or for that matter taken a class. But a 300 f4 with a 2X extender=600f8 effectively crippling the autofocus system OF ANY CAMERA! The complaint of AF not working with a 2x extender is just plain silly and I won't waste any more of my time typing a comback on that one either.

Spiro D , July 17, 1998; 12:24 P.M.

I recently boughjt an EOS 5 with Tamron 28-200mm zoom. I did a lot of shooting in a fashion school with very difficult lighting conditions - many spot lights etc. I only used internal flash from maximum 4-5 meters away. Results: Some pics are excellent, some look like flash is not enough, many look blurry. Also, when in program mode (P) the camera would sometimes take forever to compute and fire. Can any of the above be attributed to the lens? Would I get better results if I use a similar Canon USM lens? Any suggestions for best external flash for EOS 5?

Angst Man , July 19, 1998; 05:50 A.M.

Hi,

I have used my second-hand EOS5 for a month now and have shot about 20 rolls with it. Using the in-built flash for about more than half the time, my 2CR5 had to be changed after about 10 rolls. The replacement battery is still working fine because I am using the in-built flash much less often now.

I support any call for a new Vertical Grip for the EOS5 which takes AA size batteries as an alternative power source. I also support any call for a rechargeable version of the 2CR5.

The EOS USM 28-105mm is the standard lens that was purposely built for the EOS5 (according to EOS5 brochure) and hence the in-built flash will not be blocked at any focal length that the lens is at (even at 105mm). But with the lens hood on (EW63, I think), the flash is blocked. It is very important to remember this point because I tend to shoot with my lens hood on most of the time and there have been shots wasted only because I have forgotten to remove the hood.

The EOS5 has been great so far. I own a Nikkormat but I have never shot so many rolls with it as I did with the EOS5 in such a short time.

I was initially apprehensive of the Command Dial at the top because of all the internet postings that it breaks easily but I have gotten over this fear somewhat.

Somewhere in these webpages, you will read of how it is pointless to handle your equipment with kids' gloves because it will just make the resale value of your equipment higher when its thief tries to sell them off later. Hence, I maintain my equipment well when it is not in use; when they are, the pictures are more important. Besides, I think Canon stuff are tougher.

Get the EOS5 if you can afford it. Of course, if you can afford an indefinite wait, then go for the replacement which is rumoured to be coming out in Photokina.

Angst Man , October 24, 1998; 10:56 P.M.

Hi again,

Unless the EOS5 I am using conks out anytime soon, it is simply a fantastic camera to use. I finally see the logic of CF4 and I am using it all the time.

Full time manual focusing means that my lens is on AF all the time since to do any MF, all I have to do is just turn the focusing ring without lipping any switch in the first place.

Although many postings on the Net says that Nikon's flash system is better than Canon's, I beg to differ after comparing shots with a Nikon F801s with SB22. Undoubtly, the SB22 is old but it was released around the same time as the EOS5 and the Canon 430EZ. In the same event where my partner was using the Nikon setup and me the Canon one, most of her shots came out too over- exposed for comfort and that was for the main subject. My Canon one was much better. Both background and main subject was properly done. Can't say the same for the Nikon. Both of us were using fully automatic, by the way.

I am thinking of getting the EOS3 but the cost makes it out of reach for the time being. Meanwhile, it is time to buy a new 100-300mm range lens and the 100-300 f4.5-5.6 USM rates highly. I still support any call for a Vertical Grip that can take AA batteries. I cannot understand why someone posted an article here in this website that he was able to make a single 2CR5 last 15 rolls and counting. I have tried different brands, Energizer, Duracell, Panansonic and they have never ever lasted me more than 5-7 rolls (without built-in flash used at all!). Hmmm...

Anyway, if you are reading this to get a better idea of the camera before buying it, my advice: get it. A second hand one may not cost as much as the EOS50E. The EOS50E may be newer and have a newer AF system but the pride and joy from using a Pro-level camera is unmatched in any other EOS cameras (except 1, 1n, etc). The fact the Phillip Greespun, the creator of this website, is using this camera should be testimony enough.

LYP -- , November 03, 1998; 02:25 A.M.

I have owned an EOS 5 for 4 yrs now and I think its a great camera, except: No AAA batteries for the VG-10, and the LCD display has no backlighting like the EOS 630 which is a real pain.

Strangely, I could not agree with the previous author re: battery limits because mine only lasts 7-9 rolls (w/o flash).

Anyway, I am considering the 28-135 with istabilzer to add on to my existing 28-80mm (useless), 75-300mm.

sriram "death by bokeh" bala , January 30, 1999; 12:28 A.M.

I've been using my A2 for about three months now, and absolutely love it. The only sore point i have is the weak flash. BTW, has BH Photo stopped selling the EOS 5? Persistent calls to their sales dept. seem to indicate that BH photo no longer carries the EOS 5.

John D. Sassano , February 20, 1999; 01:08 A.M.

I really love my EOS-5 But after a year of moderate use the selector knob just stripped and broke. I have been aware of this problem and have always been careful. It just broke under normal use. exactly 20 days after the warranty expired. I hear its about $200.00 to fix. #^$^@$6$!!!

Omar Attum , March 05, 1999; 12:56 A.M.

The EOS 5 does have a bat. pack that attaches to a belt or camera strat. It takes 4 D batteries. I do wish there was a v grip that used AA. Anyway it does take some time to get used to this external Bat. pack for the EOS 5.

a c , April 15, 1999; 06:13 A.M.

Regarding the above post stating B&H does not carry the EOS-5 any longer, I was able to order one this week.

It is a fantastic camera. I purchased the Elan II a few weeks ago but returned it and I know I made the right decision. The EOS 5's interface is much more usable, seems more rugged, feels much better (my finger would get in the way of one of the Elan II's sensors) and is much quieter.

If you've never used a USM lens, the autofocusing on USM will knock your socks off.

Chris Ladd , April 20, 1999; 05:58 P.M.

Who needs digital, anyway? Picture this  The ubiquitous EOS-5/2AE (coupled with the 28-105USM) really is a keeper. In just a few more months it will still be silently clicking away and wowing brand new users in yet another millennium. Cool!

Sal Castro , April 30, 1999; 09:08 A.M.

I believe that you must re review this camera as many of the comments in the website have found such flaws in it. I too have this camera and I believe you are biased to the nikon family system. You should re-review this because it does make the camera sound like a heap of junk, when that is truly not the case.

The camera does have quirks which, when comparing to the top of the line NikonF5, you will find differences. I have used this camera and it has delivered superbly. But from someone who uses a Nikon, you would find such criticism in a Canon review.

I find that when using the custom functions to the fullest, you are able to change some of the defaults. And, as a new generation photographer, born on technology, the superior AF system Works better than that of on its level or under it. Not to mention the Quietness: You would only find quieter than that of the Canon system on a Rangefinder SLR or the 1nRS.

And being a retail sales associate at WOLF CAMERA (the Wolf Pack Rules: AROOOOOOOH!), It was the best camera under $1000 new,body only until the Nikon N90s fell in price, which in my opinion is still not as great a camera considering all the accessories in which you have to buy to make it better than the A2e.

please consider my opinion, Sal Castro, winduvscry@aol.com, Student at San Jose State University, California, MAJOR: Art w/emphasis in Photography

if any questions please feel free to email me. I'd love the resonse.

Joanna Strohn , May 02, 1999; 10:46 P.M.

I purchased an EOS5 from B&H in early February, 1999 based primarily on the comments here. The purchase was sight and touch unseen so I had some qualms when the camera and lenses arrived.

I didn't get the vertical grip initially but soon added it. I wanted to become familiar with the basic camera first and see if I really needed it. The grip hasn't been off the camera since I put it on.

I highly recommend getting the Magic Lantern book on this camera. It has better explanations of some of the things. The lens shades are essential too.

Although I've taken over 1000 shots with this, I feel I've just started to explore all this camera can offer. I highly recommend it.

The European version EOS5 from B&H is, in my opinion, a better camera at a lower price. Don't let the 'gray market' moniker scare you away from getting this.

Chris Gillis , May 06, 1999; 01:13 A.M.

Roger Wong posted: "CF4 on the EOS-5 moves the autofocus control to the AE-lock button under your thumb, but it doesn't disable the AE-lock. Thus, when you press the thumb-button to autofocus, the EOS-5 ends up taking an AE-lock exposure reading at the same time."

In reply: NOT true at all. You need to set CF13 up. This cancels this metering function. Then, the AE Lock Button is the focusing and AE Lock *only* when pressed. The shutter button takes a reading at the time that it is pressed. I initially thought that the meter reading would persist, but after finding CF 13, I sleep better at night.

Keith Daniel , May 25, 1999; 09:33 P.M.

When talking CF-4 and CF-13 it is also wise to understand the link to the IS in the IS lenses.

As I understand it, the AF activation and IS activation are inextricably linked. If you elect not to refocus or do not keep your finger on the AF button the IS does not work. If you want to have the IS operate smoothly it is better to have AF on the shutter button.

It would be nice if we could separate - Is Canon listening?

Wee Keng_Hor , June 19, 1999; 09:09 P.M.

I've just bought a EOS 5 at a bargain price. I'm selling off my EOS 100 and will be using the 5 together with my EOS 55 (Elan IIE).

I feel that the Elan IIE is much better than the 5 if you want fast response. The reaction time of the command dial is rather slow. When changing the apeture value on AV mode, there's a lag before the value shows up. The eye focus works much slower than the 55 and doesn't work vertically. The lack of AIM means that I'll have to either hand select the focal point or recompose the picture after taking the reading from the central AF sensor. All these really slow things down. To me, the only advantage that the 5 has over the 55 is spot meter and shoots more frame per second.

Though the 5 is a great camera, my advice is to go for the slightly cheaper but more advanced Elan II E.

Manoj Sindhgi , July 01, 1999; 03:23 P.M.

I bought a Canon EOS-5 in June 1997 and in October, the same year, the Command Dial broke. I was relieved to learn (from the internet) that this was a design flaw of this particular Canon SLR. I got my camera top replaced, free of cost, just before the warranty period expired. It has worked fine till now. After about a year after the repair, I am again faced with the same problem - the Command Dial has broken again. Prior to both these incidents, I have made sure to press the central button before turning th dial. Even with all the precautions, I have taken, I am facing the same mental trauma of getting the repairs and the cost involved. I read somewhere that this is design flaw from Canon. If that's the case why doesn't Canon do anything about it? They have changed the design in their next model, EOS 50E. I am seriously thinking of changing my camera although I like it's other features a lot. If only Canon Inc is listening... Has anybody else faced this recurring problem? What is the remedy?

balazs horvath , July 02, 1999; 05:54 A.M.

Hi, Eos 5-owner friends,

I read all Your comments about the EOS 5 on this page. I have the same problem like many of You : I miss the rechergeable batteries from the vertical holding grip. I've never held a VG-10 in my hands, I've never taken it apart, but I think there must be enough empty place (or at least you could make place) in it to put there 5 AA-size (or even smaller) batteries. ( There are only some buttons on it, they need not much place) A handyman could do this. What do you think? The price of a VG-10 is my one month salary (I'm a hungarian teacher) so I buy it only if there is a hope to place rechergeable batteries in it. If you have a vertical holding grip please look at it once again and send me an e-mail! Thanks in advance

John Clark , July 08, 1999; 04:22 A.M.

I bought an new EOS5 yesterday for a knock-down price, complete with a Sigma 28-70/2.8 EX lens. First impressions are good - I'm upgrading from a 5-year old 1000Fn body - with quick, precise autofocus and really quiet operation (my two major requirements). I'm looking forward to learning all about this camera - especially these custom functions I keep hearing about - but I have heeded the negative undercurrent re: the dial and paid an extra #15 for a three year extended warranty on the body :-)

Total cost was #379 for the body, #250 for the lens and #15 to extend the warranty from 1 to 3 years. My other lenses are a 28-200 Sigma UC (which I'm selling privately), a Canon EF50/1.8 mkII (excellent wee lens) and a Sigma 18/3.5 (my favourite - great fun!).

Peter Bury , July 10, 1999; 02:36 P.M.

I've been an EOS5 user for about 3 years now and can honestly say I wouldn't part with it, short of winning the lottery. Yes, it has it's faults, but nothing I haven't been able to work around with minimum hassle. I've thought occasionally of upgrading it to a 1N and, for a while after reading the press releases, the EOS3, but somehow I can't seem to find a way to justify the cost of something that I don't believe is going to do anything significant for my photography - every time I have the cash, I seem to buy more glass. The last time, I walked out of the camera store with a brand new 70-200 2.8 and a great condition second hand EOS5 body plus VG10 all for less than the price of a 1N body!

As for the durability issue, I've dragged mine across 3 continents, dropped it on more than a few occasions and even had an aphid or some such bug take up residence on the mirror (honest!). The command dial is still working OK (God-willing) though there is a difference in feel between the bodies - does anyone know if later models are less prone to this fault?

And the VG10? A lot of folks criticise the lack of additional battery space, but actually, I quite like it just how it is - this way you can remove it in an instant for a more compact camera or, as I often do, to lighten the load on a pocket tripod. Try that with a 1N and it's much more of a hassle with extra grips and things.

On a final note, Phil, I don't quite understand what you meant in the review by ...

"I find Canon's matrix meter to be less intelligent than Nikon's. Bracket, think, and use negative film."

It sounds like you're recommending against the use of slide film due to the metering - never had a problem beyond my own, sometimes dubious, techique. Could you explain a little more?

Ah well, you may get the idea I'm biased in favour of the 5 - totally true!

Tan Chung , July 23, 1999; 01:11 A.M.

Hi, I have been using the EOS 5 for some time now and the camera performs great. Initial fears about the top dial breaking as so many people have said on the net were largely unfounded as long as you remember to depress the lock button on the dial before turning it. .

I S , August 25, 1999; 03:33 P.M.

I love my EOS 5.

Aaron Walker , September 13, 1999; 01:09 A.M.

Hi EOS users:

I absolutely love my A2e (yes, I have the american version). The camera has worked great thus far and has already exposed about 30 rolls of film in three weeks. I got it used here in Philly so I did have to replace the battery but will see what type of battery life I get.

My only problem is with my meter. I've tried it on program and it worked pretty well, but coming off program to TV setting, my frames were underexposed drastically in the shadow areas. The whites were superb but any shadows had to be about three stops off.

Yes, I know white throws off an exposure but it seems to have gone above and beyond to completly thwart the meter so just be aware as one of the other writers said. I was using center area spot evaluative metering but the meter seems to have sought out the brightest area (i.e. white, in broad sunlight no less) in the whole frame and exposed for that area. The whites looked great even though in most of the shots I estimate it was maybe 30 percent of the entire frame.

My advice is: Do think, use a hand held meter if you have one or bracket, you'll like what you see.

Other than that, if you what a good camera, buy this one.

kelyth griffiths , September 19, 1999; 06:31 A.M.

I have just 'jumped ship' from Nikon to Canon, having put up with slow and noisy Auto Focus and inaccurate Auto Exposure on my 801s (8008s) for some time. Whilst the EOS5 is an old design, it is still the quietest smoothest camera I've handled at the price. It handles like a dream. I only bought it yesterday, before looking at this site, but I eagerly await the results from my first film! I think Nikon is now over priced and over rated, even Canon lenses seem to be better.

Chris Gillis , September 19, 1999; 09:31 P.M.

Canon BP-5 Battery Pack


What Is It?

It is a battery pack for the EOS-5 (and its mutant US variants, the A2 and A2E). The kit comes with a dummy 2CR5 battery with an attached coiled wire leading to a battery case that takes four D size batteries. The battery case is a slightly convex plastic box with a pop-off top and has a belt clip on the back. It is not waterproof, but is slightly water-resistant via a decent seal on the top of the battery case and a main compartment that has no holes in the bottom. There is a replacement battery/grip cover that comes with it; it has a strategically placed hole in it that the standard grip cover does not. The pack is not rocket science and very basic.

What Does Canon Claim It Can Do?

Its main use is to save money by not allowing the camera to graze through 2CR5s. Here are the performace details Canon gives for it:

Battery
Temperature
No Flash
50% Flash
Alkaline-Manganese D-cells Normal (20°C [68°F]) 
Low (-20°C [-4°F])
300 [198] rolls
100 [66] rolls
8 [5] rolls
6 [4] rolls
NiCd D-Cells Normal (20°C [68°F]) 
Low (-20°C [-4°F])
150 [99] rolls
45 [29] rolls
100 [66] rolls
30 [20] rolls

All results are with the highly popular 24 exposure rolls. 36 exposures figures are given in brackets; the 36 exposures are based on simple mathematical transformation based on the 24 exposure roll figure, not on actual field tests. Although I have not tested these figures, it gives hope to the notion that you will not spend a fortune on those crazy 2CR5s.

Is It Useful?

Yes, it is. In some cases. In others, it may be a burden. Every review that I could find from the EOS mailing list mentions that its true virtue is when the autofocus is being activated to no end, such as for sporting events, where you are not always taking shots but using the power to get the autofocus ready to take a shot. Another virtue is in cold weather where the power drain is greater.

The limits of it are that your camera body is tethered to the battery pack. With the standard coiled wire it comes with, this can be a pain if you are trying to not look like you have a ton of equipment with you.

Another thing I do not like about it is that when you switch from the battery pack to the 2CR5, the beeper is set to beep, even if you previously had it set to not beep. All other functions, including custom functions appear to stay the same. It is much like changing the battery; you get the same side effects. No surprise, because you are changing the battery! This is not a battery pack problem but an EOS 5 problem.

We Can Rebuild It. We Can Make It Better.

I do not like the set up as it is. For the price of $50 (as of July 1999 from B&H), it is not that great. You open the thing up and say "Neat. I could make one of these myself." This is true to an extent. The problem is that the batter case is rather nice and quite durable. The thing I do not like is the coiled wire (much like a CB radio microphone wire) that connects the dummy battery with the case. It is too short to have in a bag that is twisted around you back. It also is not long enough to set on the ground and have a tripod extended very far. Fully, and reasonably, extended, the coiled wire is only two to three feet long with a bit of tension pulling it back into a coil.

I promptly set about replacing the coiled wire with a non-coiled wire. I had reasonable success and am pleased with the operation. The first step was taking it apart--very easy. The second was getting the wire and cutting it to the right length--still very easy. The last part was putting it all back together--still easy, but with a bit of hand eye coordination needed. Here is a step-by-step how-to. Although, if you screw the poor thing up, its your own fault!

1. Unsolder the wires in the top of the battery case. Do not use too much heat or you will melt the plastic molds that hold the contacts to the top of the case. Save the grey collar for the end of the process.

2. Get a new razor blade and cut the dummy battery open. This battery is hollow inside and is glued together. Cut it along the crease in the equatorial regions. This is easy but takes a steady hand or you will cut yourself. Take is slow and steady and you will have a nice surface to glue back together. Do not cut through the protrusions at the contacts; cut around these. This may seems hard but you need not cut all of the bottom sections of the dummy battery. It will pull apart nicely when you get most of it cut.

3. Unsolder the contacts in the dummy battery. Save the grey collar; youll need it when it all goes back together.

4. Travel to your local Radio Shack or similar electronics store and buy a six foot <" stereo coupling wire. This is intended to connect CD players to receivers, ect. It is the proper diameter to fit the case and dummy battery, but a bit smaller in diameter (not by much). It also has two insulated wires running through it--very important with electricity. Cut both ends off and strip back the outer casing to reveal the red and black wires inside. I left my wire length at six foot because this allowed for and sort of weird situation I might find myself at sometime in the future. It can always be shortened later. I leave the excess coiled in a side pocket when shoot out of a bag. If you really wanted to be clever, you could find a nice in-line male-female connector to allow for a section of wire to be removed or added at the battery case; this way you could have a three foot or six foot wire--or an eighty foot wire.

5. Solder the appropriate wires to the top of the batter case. Again, do not use too much heat or youll melt the plastic moldings that hold the contacts in place. Side bar: red positive, black negative. You are now done with the top of the case. Slip the grey collar back on the end of the wire to prevent it from being pulled through.

6. Solder the other end of the wire to each of the contacts for the dummy battery.

7. Putting the battery back together takes a bit of skill, but not much. Now is the time to sort out the proper polarity, not when you install it on your EOS 5. You need to get the correct contact in the correct side of the battery. Check to make sure that you have the correct contact in the correct side and that it goes back to the correct contact at the battery case. It will be pretty clear how youll need to hold it to get the top on when you glue it all back up. Practice that this will work for you so things do not move about and that you will not be forced to smear glue everywhere. Before you glue it all back up, put the grey collar back in place on the new wire. This will prevent it from being pulled out unintentionally. A fast drying glue is necessary and is the reason for practice. I recommend Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy; get it at a hardware store. This is a fast drying epoxy that you mix just before application. It dries clear; if you get excess all over, it will not turn a hideous shade of white. If all goes well, you should be able to apply a small but liberal amount along the cut you made in the dummy battery and it should mate with the opposite side very nicely.

8. Check the final polarity of your work. I tested it with a small light bulb and AA battery. This way I knew the positive was indeed positive and the negative was, conversely, negative. If this works out, as it should, you are done. You have a bit more user friendly battery pack.

In Short...

This is a useful item if you are inclined to shoot in cold weather or use the AF function quite a bit. For the slightly high price is does the job. Also, if you want to save on batteries, this seems like a good thing--especially with rechargeable NI-Cads. It will probably come in real handy the day I forget a spare 2CR5 and can only get D cells.

Ray Gonzalez , September 20, 1999; 04:20 P.M.

Photographic equipment in Mexico is as expensive as if it were made of gold (almost 100% more!!!!) compared to the U.S. market. In spite of this minor problem, Canon supports all its gear with flawless professionalism and original spares. As a photojournalist I've been using (and abusing) several EOS bodies, from a venerable 750 to a state-of-the-art Elan IIE, and I must say that the EOS A2E has always been my workhorse. Once I was told to shoot the effects of several freak storms in Mexico City, water pouring like a monsoon... Of course, I protected my gear from the elements, but the humidity levels were amazingly high. Both the A2E's body, fitted with VG-10 Grip and a Tamron 24-70mm, aspherical (a beautiful compact optic) stood proud and tall, despite the extreme conditions. Taking your gear every six months to an authorized check-up location is a must if you want your equipment to perform up to your highest expectations.

Tan Chung , September 25, 1999; 09:57 A.M.

Hi,

I use the BP-5. I find the coil cumbersome, but not to the extent that I need to modify it. Instead of clipping it to the belt, I have modified it a little by adding an unused thin camera strap to the metal hooks so that I now side-sling the pack.

This may not make the pack lighter but it does make it easier to take off the camera and the pack at the same time from your neck.

The construction of the BP-5 is extremely simple and I cannot understand why Canon has to charge such a high (and ridiculous) price for it. If not for the dummy 2CR5 battery casing (which I could not find anywhere), it would have been very easy to make my own version of the BP-5.

Also, I am not able to get the listed number of rolls. I always use 36 frames rolls and I never use the in-built flash nowadays. I find myself having to change batteries after about only 80 rolls. The batteries I use are also Energizers.

All in all, despite all the grouses, I must admit that the BP-5 has saved me plenty of money over getting 2CR5s. Because of this, and despite it's in-portability, I will still recommend it to anyone seeking to reduce their costs in photography.

Dave Herzstein , September 29, 1999; 11:27 A.M.

I received a call last night from the repair shop that performed the programming (I was the A2E owner who originally posted the message)... They have asked that I inform you not to request the A2E/EOS 5 conversion. Canon wont authorize it; they wont do it; don't bother asking them. Sorry. They have been told by Canon that patent issues still prevent them from authorizing the conversion. (Maybe later this year when the patent runs out?) They will not perform any (more) conversions;

-Dave

Horizon Electronics is again (September 1999) performing the conversion for about $140; give them a call.

perry miog , October 05, 1999; 04:03 P.M.

For about 6 months i'm the owner of the eos 5. Since then its like having a "dejavous" feeling, just because the eos is a VERY VERY pleasant tool to play with. It is also very convenient that you can paste your pictures with it any way you want. BUT now for real: My photography started just 10 years ago. Olympus MF and AF 707, eos 620 and then the "real" thing: the nikon 801s. The nikon was awful but for the AF. AF was practically absent, MF was more useful with this nikon. After that I went for the 90X which was a BIT more satisfying in the AF compartment. My priority was on picture taking and not buying gear, so the silent wave lenses were out of the question and I was still strugling with AF!

At that point I saw the eos IX and wanted it! The body is a real gem (it oughts to be in the hall of fame for design and "snugability") but the APS is just plain daft and only suitable for compact shooters or is it?

The EOS 5 as I see it is: - still in the top five AF wise, cw USM lenses - still in the top three ergonomically - still in the top three for adaptability - still in the top three for speed, 1/8000, 1/200, 5fps - still in the top three for silence, has that mirror and transport really moved at all? - already in the top three for price, try to beat it at 1.295,= dutch guilders (i.e. 600,= USD) - and I could go on for some time. It is, and probably will be my favourite for a very long time.

Tony Acar , October 18, 1999; 11:39 A.M.

Rugged ! How rugged is it you ask?

A year ago I took my EOS 5 body and attached a 28-105usm lens and packed it ready for a 3000 odd km motorcycle tour around my state on my Yamaha XJR1200.

3/4 through my tour, due to high wind buffeting (XJR1200's have no fairing for wind protection), the zip on my back pack worked it's way open and at an approximate speed of 130Kmh. My beloved EOS 5 hit the tarmac with the only protection being the original Canon EOS camera case.

When I noticed what happened I did a U turn back to the camera which was on the side of the road but still in the case.

I picked it up gave the case a rattle and thought that was the end of the camera. The 28-105usm lens had snapped just off the base of the mount. The only visible damage to the body was on the side of the pop up flash where the case had been worn away by gravel in the tarmac.

When I got the body home and fitted my 75-300usm lens and tested all the functions. All seemed to be ok bar the Eye Controlled Focus. The next test was with film. This also passed with flying colours.

I've now grown accustomed to my EOS 5 without the ECF function. I also replaced the broken 28-105usm with a 28-135usmIS. It's never been serviced since I bought it. Although one day I might take it into my local CANON service center and have the ECF fixed.

Trust me the Canon EOS 5 is one RUGGED camera!

RT Hasbrouck , November 13, 1999; 07:16 P.M.

1. Wish I had read adverse comments about NYC camera stores. Thanks to "dumb luck," I managed to survive two transactions with PhotoGraphic Photo (shipping cost WAS excessive). Almost got cheated out of a 2X converter that I ordered along with an EOS5 plus lenses (Tamron 28-300 and Sigma 17-35). Did persist and got the 2X (Phoenix) sent at no additional shipping charge. Ordered the 7-year extended warranty for the EOS. Any comments on the validity (not necessity) of the warranty?

2. To separately lock your AF focus, and exposure, then compose, do this:

Set CF 04 ON and 13 to OFF; press "AE" lock to focus on desired subject (an exposure will also be locked; turn the lens's AF switch to Manual; when viewfinder display goes out, 1/2 push shutter release button to obtain exposure and immediately push AE lock. Obviously, it won't refocus since lens in now in Manual, but the desired exposure has been locked. Keep button down and make your composition (or release button and get composed in less than six seconds!). Could also do this with CF 13 ON; just have to ensure that button remains depressed 1/2 way. Perhaps a little extra effort, but now you can have your composition with focus and exposure set for where you want them.

3. Homemade external battery pack---this isn't for everyone. Take an exhausted 2CR5 battery and remove the two lithium batteries. A razor blade or Xacto knife will let you cut the plastic wrapping around the two batteries. A little judicious prying on the top of the black plastic case will split the two halves apart---the bottom should remain joined. With small diagonal cutters, cut the tabs as close to the bateries as possible (you want to retain the contacts in tact). DON'T short circuit the battery terminals since there is still some energy remaining in the batteries and they could be caused to heat up and explode. Once the batteries are removed, and disposed of properly, you are left with a (you guessed it) "dummy battery case." carefully remove the two terminals from the black case and solder a small gage, stranded, insulated wire to each terminal (use red for PLUS and black for MINUS). Reinstall the terminals and join the separated upper case halves with a suitable glue (super glue worked for me). With care---method left up to you---provide some means of wire strain relief, attached to the dummy battery. With the dummy in the EOS5 (A2E) route the wires so they won't get pinched; where they exit, carefully cut or file a notch in the removable battery case cover (so they can exit without interference). Next, the wires can be joined to a coiled wire of somewhat larger size (but still light and flexible). To the other end of this cable, add a mini plug (pay attention to polarity, e.g., red to the tip). The type of battery is up to you. Four AA, C, or D batteries provide a nominal 6 volts. Put battery holders in a small plastic box that has had a mini receptacle installed (keep polarity in mind when wiring the plug). You can make several battery boxes, one for each type of battery you want to use. The battery holder, plastic box, mini plugs, and probably coiled wire, can be obtained at Radio Shack, or other electronics parts store. Finally, before putting the dummy battery in the camera, and because Murphy must be taken into account, plug the cable into the battery box---with batteries installed---and measure the voltage across the dummy-battery contacts. Ensure the plus terminal really is plus. Installt ehdummy battery, and put your battery box into a suitably-sized point and shoot case, hang on your waist (or over your shoulder), and shoot away. Oh, and have an extra set of batteries on hand since, even with the longer life this will provide, the batteries still ret run down after shooting a while!

Enjoy,

Joe Fisher , November 26, 1999; 12:21 A.M.

I am a proud owner of the EOS A2. I decided not to go with the ECF as it didn't agree with me. But anyway, about the CF4/CF13 discussion. If you set both, then when you press the exposure lock button the camera does autofocus and now you can happily meter with the shutter button. But what if you want to lock exposure on something but it's not what you're trying to autofocus on? Like exposing for a rock in a park but you want to focus on a boy's face. hmmmmmm...

Thanks to whomever it was that posted the CF13 suggestion. I had a workaround solution - if, after you press the exposure lock button to autofocus you press the focus point selector button right next to it, it will cancel the meter lock. Then when you press the shutter release halfway to meter your picture it will cancel the focus selection and meter your scene. Works well if you don't like the display disappearing as soon as you release the button when you have CF13 selected.

And, for my 2 cents worth, I think the camera is fantastic except for one gripe. It's silent, fast, ergonomic, has great features for the buck, but I have to complain about the buttons on the back for drive, af type, focusing type and the iso/aeb/redeye/multiple exposure/beep buttons. Especially the autobracket. For each button you press the button then rotate the command dial to change the selection. WHy not just make the button press change the selection? For the AEB, in order to get it to snap 3 pix in succession, first you have to switch the drive to continuous, THEN you set the AEB range. Awfully silly. Why not just link them while the AEB is active? I thought that's why it's Auto exposure bracketing.

Well, there's my rant :) All in all, I adore this camera. I wouldn't trade it for a Nikkon if you paid me :) But that's for another message board, isn't it :) Oh and if you have any suggestions or comments for me, feel free to mail me! joefish75@hotmail.com

Joe

toan Nguyen , February 28, 2000; 02:56 P.M.

This is an excellent camera. The only complaint is I wish the CF04 feature would work like the Elan II. Other than that, it's a gem and will never leave my bag.

Matt Orth , March 06, 2000; 09:53 P.M.

I've had my A2e for over a year now and am very pleased. I don't use it as much as I'd like (trivialities like gainful employment, you know) but even after a long spell not using it I find the controls and operation almost intuitive. Two specific comments:

1) I'm sick of people blaming the consumer for the command dial breaking -- the directions do not say the button has to be depressed except when moving out of the LOCK position. If moving the dial without pushing the button is harmful, then designing it so that it will move without pressing the button was stupid. After 3 months of light use my command dial became very difficult to use, and was fixed under warrantee. There's a design flaw in there somewhere.

2) Let's talk rugged. I was changing lenses yesterday and let go of the body -- as it bounced off the concrete I realized that the neck strap wasn't on. The pop-up flash was bent, the fresnel lens popped off -- but everything still worked, including the flash (even the zooming). Some adjustments and a bit of tape for the fresnel, and it seems to be working fine. All the pictures I took after the drop are fine (except for the usual user error issues).

I know that it might crap out tomorrow, and I know that if the planets had been aligned differently it might have broken completely. But in this case it seems to have taken a bad drop and kept on going, and I'm impressed.

Roger Wong , April 30, 2000; 08:43 P.M.

People who have used Custom Function 4 on the Elan IIe will be disappointed that CF4 on the EOS-5 will not separate the AF control from the exposure control.

CF4 on the EOS-5 moves the autofocus control to the AE-lock button under your thumb, but it doesn't disable the AE-lock. Thus, when you press the thumb-button to autofocus, the EOS-5 ends up taking an AE-lock exposure reading at the same time.

Update: Chris Gillis wrote in below to tell me how to make the EOS-5 CF4 act like the Elan IIe CF4:

"...You need to set CF13 up. This cancels this metering function. Then, the AE Lock Button is the focusing and AE Lock *only* when pressed. The shutter button takes a reading at the time that it is pressed... after finding CF 13, I sleep better at night." -Chris Gillis

toan Nguyen , May 09, 2000; 04:56 A.M.

I have both the EOS A2 and the ElanIIE. The above statement from Mr Wong and Mr Gillis is INCORRECT, at least with my cameras. After setting up CF 4 to 1 and CF13 to 1 on my A2, the camera will take the final meter reading right before the shutter button is fully pressed. Therefore, if you recompose your frame after you focus w/ "*" button, the meter reading will change because the camera will take the final meter reading right before the shutter button is pressed. This doesn't serve the purpose of locking in the meter reading. On the ElanII, locking in the meter reading means you focus w/ the "*", locking in the meter reading by 1/2 press the shuttle button, then RECOMPOSE the picture with the shuttle button 1/2 pressed (w/o changes in the meter reading), then press the shuttle button all the way. Therefore, this doesn't make the A2 CF4 feature to be equivalent to the ElanII CF4. I have both cameras right here with me and CF4s on both don't work the same even after CF13 was set on the A2. Please inform me if my method is incorrect.

Ronald Smith , July 26, 2000; 10:49 A.M.

Just wanted to add my comments to the generally positive remarks made about the A2. I recently read where some photographers were having problems with the spring under the Command Dial breaking. Although I did not have this problem with my first A2 body, I did realize you must press the button in the dial's centre, at ALL times, when changing modes. On my second A2 body, just purchased three weeks ago, Canon have modified the Command Dial to move much smoother and without the need to hold the button down. Curiously, the material on the back of the camera seems to be made with a different material. I had to wait four weeks for this body to get to me, even prepaid, so I'm assuming Canon is now making them only as they're ordered. This would seem to indicate that a new body is coming soon. Alas, that's the way of progress. All of us with A2's will still be able to take good pictures.

tim hale , October 28, 2000; 06:47 A.M.

Hi, a long time ago (dec99) I printed off these pages to read before I made up my mind to buy an eos5 and VERY helpful they were too. I now have one, bought in dec99, and have been working with it for this year in a semi-pro capacity. Its a nice camera, a great camera even, with super optic canon lenses too, but that metering/AF system is really starting to hack me off!!

Particularly problems with spot/matrix metering on provia 100F and velvia. I know that these are contrasty transparency films, but I am still trying to fathom the ae lock timer and cf settings so that I can use spot metering without the damn thing insisting on metering for the sky too. I think its a 6-second lock problem, but i'd appreciate any pointers which explain the exact settings/technique needed to do this. (email me at rdc86*NOSPAM*@dial.pipex.com)

As a semi-pro whose used the eos100 previously, and mamiya645's and fuji GA645, and the minolta xe1 before that for years, this exposure problem is really getting to me!! I know I could probably use a neutral filter on the sky, but my grab-shots dont easily permit that.

So, I returned here to read the most recent comments (disappointingly few to my mind) and Matt Orth and Roger Wong are confusing the Hell out of me. AAARGHH. So, can someone please explain in words of one syllable, what I have to do to get the spot meter to meter a spot, save the setting while I recompose the pic, then fire the shutter.??? Before I got the eos5 I thought I was pretty competent at doing that fairly basic task, but somehow my eos5 don't wanna do it. Matrix metering is fine on a non sky homogenous background but as most of my shots are landscapes, half sky half buildings/ground, I have to meter for the buildings. AEB to the rescue (sometimes).

Any "definitive" ideas anyone?

Tim

Andrew Harto , December 08, 2000; 09:05 P.M.

Dear Tim, the landscape shooter:

The solution to your problem is EASY! Set the camera on manual mode, then do these things: 1. Meter the spot you want 2. Decide how many stops up/down you want that spot to be exposed (zone system). Good thing that EOS 5 has the digital +/- scale in its viewfinder.

Walla! Then do whatever you want with the composition! You don't have to worry about the 6 seconds AE lock.

Don't be too dependent on its super techno features, which can be a disadvantage at times.

jbock220 220 , March 01, 2001; 02:55 P.M.

WHAT ABOUT THE MODE DIAL? / LOOKING FOR THE BEST-BANG-FOR-YOUR-BUCK? EOS-5 (not the A2e) Nobody is writing about the mode dial button. If your researching this camera, let me tell you, I have already done the footwork. This camera has shown to be the best-bang-for-your-buck that I can find (after taking in all the info on lenses, sound, speed, etc). I got my body for around $500 on ebay and some lenses for $200(+,-) at a local shop. There is one reacurring problem that I have found EVERYONE has. The plastic inside the mode dial breaks and the thing begins to spin free and you never know what mode your on. (If it hasn't happened yet, trust, it's just a matter of time). There is a permanent fix (though I haven't actually gotten mine fixed, due to cash flow problems) Your local repair shop can replace the plastic piece with a metal one (quoted @ $90. Also don't send it to Canon! It'll take months, i hear, to get back to you). Hope this helps.

Through my research, of which I ended up with what many call the "comprimise" of the other companies, Canon, I found another even better bang-for-your-buck. I hear that the Canon T90 ($100 +,-) is the "old faithful" of canon manuals. They are easy to find and cheap to buy. All you need is the know-how of using a manual camera (Get a book).

This is meant for novices who aren't into all the mumbo jumbo and just want to learn and have more control over their pictures than point and shoot (like being able to change lenses, etc.).

R V , March 01, 2001; 08:23 P.M.

I am hesitating between buying an EOS 5 or an EOS Elan 7E. Can anyone tell me which one is best? Please e-mail me at wonderboy1980@hotmail.com, thanks!

David Frech , March 30, 2001; 09:27 P.M.

It's pretty easy to compare the EOS-5 to a 7E. I've had an EOS-5 for three years and just bought a 7E in order to have a second body and to get some features I don't have on the EOS-5. You'll be happy with either but there are some trade-offs. Some nice features on the EOS-5 not found on the 7E the on board flash is a true zoom flash. 1/8000 second shutter speed infrared focus assist 1/200 flash synch Spot Metering Some nice things on the 7E are it's designated a "Type A" just like the 1V and 3 which should tell your something. E-TTL/FP Flash DOF Preview Button more ergonomic smaller but only 3oz lighter vertical eye control focus wireless remote I shoot a lot of high school soccer, but my real love is landscape photography. Both boxes use TTL CT SIR autofocus systems. The EOS-5 still gets rave reviews after nine years, but Canon has relegated it to the "Type B" pack. I think the 7E focuses just as fast as the E0S-5. I use eye focus and prefer the 7E layout and the fact that it provides both horizontal and vertical eye focusing. They are both great performers, but I always recommend that you buy "new" because that what the manufacturer supports.

Joel Alves , April 13, 2001; 11:30 A.M.

I have a Canon EOS A2 buyed in a used market here in RIO DE JANEIRO - BRAZIL. It's my first AF camera after many years with my Minolta SRT 102. The grip is great at first impression. My observations about it are: =Strengths: * The camera feels solid when you first pick it up. * Ergonomics of the camera is great as it is. * Custom Functions. * 5fps with no booster. * Very quiet fast rewind. * Good auto focus. * The mirror prefire. * Fast shutter speed 1/8000 * DOF preview * 5 points AF 0 0 0 0 0 =Weaknesses: * Flimsy top-dial * Lack of an alternative power supply unless one buys the extremely bulky and inconvenient belt-clipped BP-5 * The flash system which is inadequate =Bottom Line: *I love my EOS A2. The EOS A2 was released in 1992 (beyond its time...). It is a semi-professional camera for people who could not or would not buy an EOS 1. Despite the relatively old project (early '90s) the EOS A2 is very actual. I have many of the most important tools in professional photo in a practice and ergonomic camera. It's a excellent camera with a very good price.

Anthony Thornborough , April 21, 2001; 06:59 A.M.

I have used the Canon EOS 5 since 1994, and have two bodies in my kit bag. I love the camera, and have achieved excellent results with a variety of film types.

However, while the first body I acquired has worked flawlessly for nearly eight years, the second - bought in early 1999 - failed just after sixteen months. The command dial broke. I have heard that it's possible to get the flawed plastic component responsible for this problem replaced by a superior metal part - can somebody please advise me of the name/location of such a repairer in England?

My other comment is I have found the pseudo-rubber battery cover annoying. Unlike the rubbery layer glued to the VG10 grip, the 'rubber' grip on the EOS 5's battery cover is spray-on and starts wearing off after 3-4 years. This can be a nuisance as the small rubber flakes can potentially get into the lens mount or back when changing optics, or loading/unloading film. Does anyone know of a readily-available rubber type paint to retouch and/or help stop the flaking once it begins?

The final point I would like to make is that I find the ECF very effective when lenses with f/2.8 or faster apertures are used, but sluggish and unreliable with slower ones. For slower lenses I turn ECF off and use the central point, which helps keep up AF performance.

Nick Roberts , August 02, 2001; 05:56 A.M.

Spot metering can be linked to the focus point by activating custom function 15, as indicated in the perfectly adequate manual.

Tony Acar , August 21, 2001; 11:48 P.M.

What about the possibility of attaching an after market Digital Back to the EOS 5? Has anybody heard of a manufacturer that offers such accessories to the EOS 5 user? Following any replies to this post I would also appreciate a direct e-mail to myself as well. Cheers

Tommy Huynh , August 19, 2002; 05:18 P.M.

Well I've had mine for almost 10 years now and it still takes great pictures despite being dropped on rock, concrete, being drenched in the rain, and dipped in a river. It has some great features that I wish Canon still implemented on it's prosumer cameras, namely the IR AF assist light, and it's built in zoom flash. The interface with the tiny buttons on the film back is a bit kludge though and here I like the Elan 7 much better. There are also some other little things about the camera that I don't care for but they can be fixed with some modifications. To those interested in modifying cameras, I've put up some tutorials on my travel photo website about modifying the Canon EOS A2E and the Ricoh R1 which you might find helpful. In particular, the tutorials cover:

1) Enabling ECF in vertical mode for the Canon EOS A2E
2) Ruggedizing the Canon EOS A2E Command Dial
3) Building an AA battery power pack for the Canon EOS A2E
4) Disabling the Canon EOS A2E beeper
5) Maintaining full frame image capture in panoramic mode with the Ricoh R1

Sorry there aren't more photos to illustrate the process but since I don't have a 2nd body to take macros with, this is a bit difficult.

Sam Ae , January 26, 2003; 06:12 A.M.


Volume of the VG-10

As Balazs Horvath suggested, i think it is possible to loaden the "wasted" space in the Vg-10 with 5 x 1.2 V NiMH batteries (6V). These days the AAA size NiMH come in capacities of 750 mAh or even 800 mAh. That is as much as a NiCD AA siezed battery. The new NiMH chemicals has a very long life expectency and finding 5 AAA's is much more easier and cheaper than 2CR5's... The 5 AAA's have more Amps in them and are realtively lighter. It would be therefore a dream of many EOS5 fans to fit 5 AAA's into the VG-10. Has anybody dared to dismantle the Vg-10?

Tim Atwater , March 03, 2008; 11:59 P.M.

Is anybody out there on photo.net still using the EOS 5/A2/A2e? Sounds like it was a big "techno filmcam" hit in 1992-96, and I know there are still many film users out there, judging by Flickr. The A2/A2E body is now VERY inexpensive, although the prime EF lenses are still very pricey. At least the basic compatible zooms are reasonably cheap. I'm in no hurry to go digital, so is this camera worth buying used with a basic zoom?

Thanks Tim

Alex Kinnan , March 24, 2008; 05:23 A.M.

"Is anybody out there on photo.net still using the EOS 5/A2/A2e?"

Hi, Tim. I guess I'm still using one, or, rather, I am starting to use one. Despite having gone mostly digital over the past six years, I still get the occasional urge to handle and shoot some film.

I've also been wanting a "chunky" camera, but haven't been able to afford a digital one. So, a couple of weeks ago, I ended up winning the bidding on an A2 with VG10 grip. I paid less than $50.00 for the setup.

I'm still in the process of testing the thing out, so I can't yet say how well it works. There's no more cheap "good" film processing left in my neighbourhood, so I haven't gotten my first two rolls done yet. Still, the fact that I have already shot two rolls should tell you one thing: It is a fun camera to hold and shoot. The viewfinder's pretty good (though not as seemingly bright as my Nikon n8008s's or EOS 630's), and the thing just fits so well in the hand. Wonderful sounds happen when the shutter release is pressed, and it seems to focus pretty quickly, even in low light -- much faster than I can manually focus, and faster even than my much newer Pentax *ist DL.

Though, to be honest, I have an EOS 620 that, when using the assist light on its 300ez flash, focusses faster than the DL in the dark...

Now, mine does have a bit of a sticky top command dial, and it did just rewind a 36exp. roll at about frame 30, so all is not perfect. There's a few days left on the warranty, so I do have to get those rolls developed and make a decision...

Regardless, it is a terrifically fun camera just to hold and fire the shutter on, as long as you have a cheap source of those darn 2CR5 batteries, of course. I've so far only used it with a 50mm f/1.8 Mk.II prime, and it focusses fast with it. I'd avoid the really cheap zooms, as I have read less than stellar reviews of them... Better to put the money toward that plasticky 50mm...

Also: I have read that you want to be sure to check the shutter blades for any residue that might denote a decomposing mirror bumper. This is apparently a problem with older, pre-Elan II cameras.

And yes, there are still plenty of film users out there. Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer film processors out there to handle the film well, or at all. A pity, as there are some truly great emulsions available right now...

Leandro Rolim , January 25, 2009; 08:34 P.M.

Well, hello! I have bought recently a Canon 450d and I have fell so much in love with photography that I decided I want to good the wrong way. When I was a kid I never could afford a film camera and my parents never let me play with theirs. Yeah. Big trauma.... :( Now I'm waiting for an auction on a Canon EOS A2E (EOS-5) on eBay Hope I'll win it (if it sells under US$50) :D leorolim http://flickr.com/leorolim

Mary B , March 11, 2009; 02:56 A.M.

"Is anybody out there on photo.net still using the EOS 5/A2/A2e?"

*waves*

I am going through a photography program with my EOS 5 and it has never failed me, no matter the circumstances. I bought it used just over a year ago now, so even though I have no idea what it went through before me, I adore it to bits- it's the camera that survives nearly anything and still takes fab shots (I shoot mostly slides with it). Except what someone above mentioned about the faux rubber grip flaking off. That has not survived the years well.

(To recount- I personally have dropped it several times in the studio and once on the street, mistakenly stepped on it, taken it to the beach and had a few watery mishaps there and even had an adventure with my dog trying to eat it.)

But it works great and even though I feel like it wasn't really designed for those of us with smaller hands, I wouldn't give it up at this point in time. I hope to get many happy more years out of this thing still.

"Also: I have read that you want to be sure to check the shutter blades for any residue that might denote a decomposing mirror bumper. This is apparently a problem with older, pre-Elan II cameras."

Yes, I have also heard this about the mirror bumper, but never had any issues with my pre-Elan II cameras, luckily enough. *fingers crossed*

St├ęphane Krakowska , July 11, 2009; 05:58 P.M.

Hi,

I have the Eos 5 since 1994-1995, in different climate/country and it is still working perfectly well. I do not use the ECF very often but when I do it work. Picture are great and I will never sell it. The only thing nowaday is that 24-36 frames are taken so fast and the prices of rolls and processing are getting more and more expensive that I am now buying an Eos 450D. The Eos 5 will still be in my camera bag long after the 450D.

Brendan Raley , October 26, 2009; 05:19 P.M.

If you have the chance to get one of these used or if you have the amazing luck to find one that's new, get it. For around $100 now its the best camera I have ever used. Its quiet and has all the functions that you need if you're even semi-serious about photography. Anyway, if you see one and need a good film camera then jump on it. Its also the most durable camera Ive used since my Minolta X-700 you can drop it on concrete and provided that the mount on you're lens isn't plastic, everything will still be golden.

Leo Duckworth , January 17, 2011; 07:02 P.M.


Bela The Cat On The Back Porch

Bought a Canon EOS 5 for $26. US on Fleabay. Loaded it with some film that expired in 2002, and to my surprise got the entire roll back from the local CVS with all pictures perfectly processed.I had read this article on the EOS 5/A2 and thought it might be something I would like to try. I could use all the lenses I already own with Canon Digital Rebel XTi, so I thought why not. This has renewed my interest in film for sure. The included photo was shot using the Canon Eos 5 with a Canon 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS lens with Kodak ISO 400 Speed film that expired in 2002. I would just like to say there are a lot of photographers on photo.net talking about what is good and what is not good, but I say the proof is in the photo. You will never know what works or what doesn't work until you actually put it to the test and try it yourself. I have heard many stories about using expired film and the film I used came with the camera, so who knows what it was subjected to prior to being mailed to me. For me the test lie in the photo, not test charts and graphs placed on plywood boards to count pixels or look for abnormalities. The photos I take are not manipulated in any way because a true photographer has learned how to manipulate light, not pixels. So excuse me while I get back to my new found project,  manipulating light one frame at a time. This camera and lens combination are almost totally silent while using and produce what I consider to be great photos. Now its off to see what my new Canon 85mm 1.8 USM lens will do in combination with this body and maybe some Fomopan 100.


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