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Canon MP-E 65mm 1-5X Macro Lens

by Philip Greenspun

This is a very strange lens that will test your creativity as a photographer. Most people find it challenging to identify an interesting scene when it is right in front of them, at a familiar scale. Some people have developed the skill of finding interesting forms that are getting close to the size of a 35mm negative (see the photo.net macro photography primer). But very few photographers have ever thought about hunting for interesting subjects that are a fraction of the size of a 35mm negative.

This lens from Canon, released late in 1999, is a hunting license. The world according to the MP-E 65 starts at 1X with a subject the same size as a 35mm frame (24x36mm). Subjects get smaller from there until their linear dimension is only one-fifth the size of a 35mm frame (at 5X, a 5x7mm subject will fill up the photograph).

There are a bunch of mechanical problems with using this lens:

  • the viewfinder gets dark as you rack it out to 5X; the nominal maximum aperture is f/2.8 but that is a mythical aperture not even available at 1X. At 1X, the effective wide-open f-number is 5.6. As you rack the lens out to 5X, the effective viewing aperture is f/16.
  • focusing becomes critically important when photographing at high magnification and the viewfinder ground glass may not be precise enough; Canon has had to introduce a right-angle magnifying viewfinder to assist photographers. Note that the MP-E 65 is in an autofocus mount and only works with autofocus EOS cameras but has no focusing motor and requires manual focusing. How sloppy can you be? Depth of field at 5X is 0.05mm (one twentieth of a millimeter!) at an effective aperture of f/16. Stopping down to an effective f/64 gives you about 0.1mm to work with.
  • illuminating the subject with an external light becomes difficult because the lens is in the way (you're about one inch from your subject); Canon makes the ML-3 Macrolite ring flash to help with this problem
  • calculating exposure with external lighting is made difficult by Canon's failure, unlike the Nikon system, to show effective taking aperture in the viewfinder. Furthermore, the lens is not calibrated with exposure compensation for different settings. You'd think that you'd be able to succeed using TTL ambient metering, but the manual that comes with the lens cautions against using the in-camera meter with any body other than the EOS-1N and EOS-1! You have to remember not to use spot metering with those cameras, though, because it won't be accurate. The manual also reminds you to make sure to use an eyepiece shutter or cover if you are metering without having your eye over the eyepiece. According to the manual, if you install a "Laser Matte" focusing screen in the EOS-3, you can use the in-camera ambient meter. The only recommend approach with the average EOS body is TTL flash metering.
  • standard tripods don't allow you to move the camera/lens straight back and forth toward the subject; you'll probably need to buy a macro rail to make it easy to achieve the desired camera/subject distance

You can solve the mechanical problems with extra thought or extra equipment. But you'll be left with a deeper aesthetic problem: when was the last time you saw something really really small whose form and color you wanted to record?

Anyway, I've had the lens for four months now and have only exposed one test roll of Fuji Provia 100F. For lighting I used my standard Canon 540EZ flash with a Stofen diffuser connected via an off-camera cord. I kept the setup on my kitchen table and hunted for household objects, then hollered for Pi Goddess Eve Andersson to come and hold the flash while I squinted and moved the camera back and forth. Here are a few examples from that sample roll:

Orchid Flower Beads on African doll Shutter on Rodenstock lens on Linhof Master Technika

Update for 2001 (Digital): This lens makes an interesting companion for the Canon D30 SLR. The four images below are (1) low-voltage living room light (3 seconds at f/11), auto white balance, (2) same light and exposure but tungsten white balance set explicitly, (3) 380EX off-camera flash, (4) 380EX off-camera flash plus reflector.

Digital photo titled jelly-ambient-awb Digital photo titled jelly-ambient-tungsten Digital photo titled jelly-just-flash Digital photo titled jelly-flash-plus-reflector

Digital is definitely the way to go with extreme macro photography. You get instant previews that tell you whether you have an exposure problem. If only 1 in 100 images turns out to be interesting, you've not wasted a fortune in film and processing.

With the Canon Macro Flashes

The Canon MR-14EX Ring Lite and MT-24EX Twin Lite are convenient companions for this the MP-E 65mm lens. The Ring light is especially helpful in illuminating objects at high magnifications, where the working distance between front element and subject is minimal. Here are a couple of examples with the Ring Lite, with the lens mounted on a full-frame Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III, $6899 (review):

The bottom line

Alex (0.02X) Alex (2X)
Nick Gittes and Alex. 1998. Alex
Alex at 18 months Alex's eye

Specifications

Construction: 10 elements in 8 groups, 1 UD element
Focus motor: --none (manual)--
Focusing range: 1X to 5X magnification
Filter size: 58mm
Lens Hood: E-58
Length: 98mm
Weight: 730 g

Where to Buy

This lens is available from amazon.com, $900.


Film images from PhotoCD scans
Text and pictures (c) copyright 2000-8 Philip Greenspun, except for the product photo of the lens, which is from Canon.

Article revised February 2008.

Readers' Comments


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David Fourer , September 12, 2000; 01:35 A.M.


wolf spider

The author suggest you might not know what to use this lense for. See my upload on photo.net (above).

This is a wolf spider, 2.5x, Canon FTb and f3.5 macro lense mounted in reverse on 100mm extension tube, two electronic flash mounted on camera, hand-held, live subject.

The best feature of the MP-65 is the electic link from camera to lens diaphram.

I think the features of this lense make sense based on my experience. I have yet to buy one. Regarding working distance, a 50mm lense gives a 50mm distance from the lense's theoretical center to the subject at infinate magnification. in practice, you should get about the same working distance in real use (I hope!). This should allow for lighting at about a 45-degree angle, using electronic flash, which is enough angle. Use a flash with minimum 1/2000 flash duration. Then you can hand-hold the camera.

As for metering, don't use any. Calculate the required distance from flash to subject based on a neutral grey subject. This should be about 4 to 8 inches for the highest f-number, which works out well if you mount the flashes on the camera

I welcome any comments about macro or micro photography. Thank-you.

Allan Engelhardt , March 24, 2001; 06:01 P.M.

Macro lenses are fun, because they make the ordinary extra-ordinary.

Try using this lens with the 1.4x or 2x extenders for up to 10x magnification! Yes, it really works. Canon does not really advertise the fact, probably because your images at 10x will be a little bit soft. Depth of field is very, very shallow :-)

A very convenient outfit for real close-up photography.


Charles Chien , January 18, 2003; 01:29 P.M.

I was hoping to find some samples before I bought mine, but there really were not enough. I bought it anyway, and love it since! I thought I share a couple samples here that hopefully will help future perspective buyers.

Here are some samples. (Please click the thumbnails to enlarge.)
1x 5x 4x-5x plus 12mm extension tube

Happy shooting!

Jean Merlin , December 25, 2006; 05:55 P.M.

I have a few shots with this lens myself

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=389438

With digital I do not see the issue of light measurement. I use AV mode on F16 all the time and speed between 1/125 and 1/250. I use the MR 14EZ canon ringflash. I have 1 keeper out of 30 pictures. Focusing is the most difficult part, but when it works, it makes great pictures IMHO.

Wim de Winter , July 19, 2008; 05:43 P.M.

It's my favourite lens, but I only use it in the studio. Mounted on the stand of a partly dismantled microscope, fine-tuning the focus is no problem.

Sharpness is the best at f/4 (as seen by the camera), above f/8 it visibly decreases.

Image Attachment: fileTxqsqE.jpg


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