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The Canon PowerShot G11, (compare prices) is the latest in Canon’s “top of the line” G series cameras. Bucking the trend of ever increasing pixel count, the G11 (10 MP)actually has less pixels than the G10 (14.7MP). Doing so seems to have enables Canon to lower high ISO noise levels and generally improve high ISO image quality. Though we don’t often review P&S digicams on photo.net, the G series powershots have a pretty strong reputation with professional photojornalists, so we though we’d take a closer look at the G11.
New on the Canon Powershot G11 is an articulating LCD screen, something found on the G1 through G6 models, but dropped from the G7 though G10 models (note: there was no G4 or G8). The screen size has gone down from the G10 (3") to the G11 (2.8"), but the articulating design more than makes up for a very slight reduction on size. The screen can be adjusted and pointed forward for self-portraits(!), tilted so that it can be seen with the camera held overhead or on the ground and it can be stored either facing inward to protect the screen or facing outward so that it can be used like a fixed LCD.
Features present on the G10 but absent on the G11 are voice recording, remote capture support and Auto ISO Shift.
Bob Atkins
Like all other G series powershots (except for the G7), the G11 can capture images in RAW mode as well as JPEG (though not both at the same time). The G11 supports the use of SD/SDHC memory cards as well as MultiMediaCards, MMCplus cards and HC MMCplus cards. It uses the same NB-7L high capacity rechargeable Li-ion battery as the G10.
The Powershot G11 is a good camera either for those who don’t want to mess with the multiple lenses and size of a DSLR, yet still want high quality images and full manual control. It also makes a good second camera for DSLR owners who want something they can carry around with them all the time. Canon’s G line of Powershots have also always been quite popular with photojournalists. There are times when a DLSR is just too obtrusive and a small high quality digicam like the G11 is more appropriate for the task at hand, especially if it has good low light capability.
Where to buy
The Canon PowerShot G11, (compare prices) is available from Photo.net’s partners and purchasing via these links helps support photo.net.
Canon Powershot G11 features:
10 MP CCD sensor (1/1.7")
28-140/2.8-4.5 (35mm equiv.) with optical stabilization
Shutter speeds 15s-1/4000s (not all speeds available in all modes)
Continuous shooting at 1.1 fps (JPEG)
ISO 80-3200 and up to 12,800 in reduced resolution mode
2.8" articulating LCD (461,000 dots)
Built in 3 stop ND filter
Socket for wired remote
Hotshoe for Canon Speedites
SD video (640 × 480 and 320 × 240 @ 30fps)
JPEG and RAW storage
DIGIC IV image processor
HDMI output
Bob Atkins
The Canon Powershot G11 isn’t the smallest of cameras, though it will fit easily in a jacket pocket. At 4.4″ × 3″ × 1.9″ (lens retracted) it’s certainly smaller than the smallest conventional DSLR and it’s pretty similar in size to the new Olympus Pen EP-2 (4.8″ × 2.8″ × 1.4″), though of course you have to add a lens to the Olympus. At around 13oz, the G11 won’t weigh you down too much either.
Controls and Operation
Canon’s G series digicams have always had a full range of manual controls and the G11 is no exception. On the top of the camera are dials for shooting mode, ISO setting and exposure compensation. Having them directly accessible is much more convenient than having to push buttons and scroll through menus.
Bob Atkins
The control dials have a very solid feel and seem to be made of metal (pretty rare these days), with a smooth action and positive detentes. There is actually a small amber LED light next to the ISO and exposure compensation dials, though I found that in the dark they didn’t really shine enough light on the dials to read them.
The mode dial has settings for C1 and C2 (custom modes), M (manual), Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority), P (intelligent program), AUTO (full auto) plus icons for low light mode, quick shot mode, scene modes and video. In the scene modes, Portrait, Landscape, Night Snapshot, Kids & Pets, Indoor, Sports, Sunset, Night Scene, Fireworks, Beach, Underwater, Aquarium, Foliage, Snow, Color Accent, Color Swap and Stitch Assist options are available.
The low light mode is interesting and puts the camera into a reduced resolution 2.5MP mode of 1824 × 1368 pixels (which is 1/4 the area of the full 3,648 × 2,736 10MP mode). The ISO range is expanded from the normal 3200 maximum to 12800. The reduced resolution enables a greater degree of noise reduction to be employed and so yield usable images in very low light. “Usable” means that you can probably make acceptable 4×6 prints as long as you’re not too picky. There are times when any picture at all is better than no picture!
There is a standard 1/4"-20 socket on the camera base for a tripod, though it’s not in line with the optical axis of the lens. With a light camera this doesn’t matter for stability, though it may be a small concern for anyone doing multiple frame panoramic shots since the shots won’t line up quite so well (though most stitching software won’t really care).
Bob Atkins
The G11 is quite easy to hold and shoot using only one hand, though I did find that my thumb would sometimes accidentally push the 4 way controller which selects flash-mode/self-timer/macro-focus/manual-focus. Perhaps someone with smaller hands (and thumbs…) might not have this problem. The “grip” for the fingers is rather small, though if it were any larger it would increase the thickness of the camera and make it less pocketable. There is a control dial surrounding the 4-way rear controller and I also found it pretty easy to accidentally change modes via the 4-way switch while rotating the control dial to change some other setting.There is an optical viewfinder (with diopter correction) which can be useful in very bright lighting or to save battery power. The drawback of the optical viewfinder is that it only has about 77% coverage, so accurate framing can be difficult. The LCD screen has 100% coverage as so is the preferred way of framing a shot.
The G11 powers up fairly quickly, taking about 1 second to do so. After it’s powered up it’s no speed demon when it comes to continuous shooting. In JPEG mode it can achieve 1.1 frames/sec but if you’re shooting RAW that drops to just under 1 frame/sec. However at that speed it doesn’t fill its buffer as long as you’re using a reasonably speedy memory card, so you can shoot continuously until the card is full. In single shot mode the shot to shot delay is a little over a second when storing the images as JPEGs. If you store as JPEG + RAW that increases to around 2 seconds. AF speed isn’t bad by digicam standards. Typically AF takes under 1/2s at wide settings and a little longer (maybe up to 1 second) at the telephoto end of the focus range. There is a very effective AF assist light to help focusing in low light.
Hannah Thiem
The lens and image quality
The lens is a 6.1 – 30.5mm f2.8-f5.6 “zoom”. Technically it’s not really a zoom but rather has multiple fixed focal length settings like all P&S “zooms”. I counted 14 different focal lengths going from wide to telephoto. This really isn’t an issue unless you want precise framing from a fixed camera position. In 35mm equivalent terms the lens is something like a 28-140mm zoom. Exact focal length (field of view) comparison isn’t possible because the G11 has a 4:3 aspect ratio sensor while 35mm (and APS-C) DSLRs have a 3:2 aspect ratio sensor.
The lens is optically stabilized and offers something like 3-4 stops of added stability. This means that you can shoot at shutter speeds as low as 1/15s (maybe even slower) at the telephoto setting and still have a high probability of pretty sharp images.
Bob Atkins
Optical testing shows the G11 lens to be remarkably good in most respects. Center resolution is high at all focal lengths and corner resolution just about matches the center. There is little vignetting even at maximum aperture and chromatic aberration is well controlled, though it is detectable at the edges of the image at wide and medium focal length setting. Perhaps the most noticeable problem is barrel distortion at the widest setting, though this is pretty easy to correct in most image editors (or in Canon’s DPP if you shoot in RAW mode). In terms of actual resolution, the G11 delivers results as good as (if not better than) a typical consumer type DSLR with a kit lens – as long as the ISO setting is low. Ideally ISO 80 or ISO 100 for maximum quality, though ISO 200 is pretty good and even ISO 400 is surprisingly clean.
Bob Atkins
Unlike most DSLR lenses, the G11 lens appears to give the best (sharpest) results wide open, even in the corners of the image. Stopping down slightly lowers overall resolution, probably due to diffraction effects which are noticeable at much wider apertures with small sensor cameras then with full frame DSLRs. That’s why the G11 (and most other small sensor digicams) don’t allow apertures smaller than f8, while with full frame DSLRs apertures of f22 and even f32 can be used.
The lens has a built in 3 stop ND filter which can be moved into the optical path if you want to use slower shutter speeds or wide apertures in bright sunlight. It effectively drops the minimum ISO setting from 80 to ISO 10.
Image Noise
Bob Atkins
Canon reduced the number of pixels from 14.7MP in the G10 to 10MP in the G11, presumably to increase image quality at higher ISO settings. This seems to have worked! At ISO 80 and 100 there is essentially no noise and the image looks very much like one from a DSLR. Even at ISO 200 noise is very low indeed and at ISO 400 it’s more than acceptable. At ISO 800 you do start to see noise but things are still pretty good. There’s a noticeable decline at ISO 1600 with higher noise levels and some blurring of detail due to noise reduction and at ISO 3200 there’s another fairly significant quality drop. For a small sensor digicam these are very good results, somewhere between 1 and 2 stops better than the G10.
Bob Atkins
In the grander scheme of things however the G11 can’t really compete with a DSLR when it comes to high ISO noise and this should be no surprise since the sensor and pixels are so small. Smaller pixels lead to higher noise (it’s just physics!), so at higher ISO setting you either have a lot of noise, or you use a lot of noise reduction and end up with a soft image. The G11 walks the line between noise and softening pretty well. If you shoot RAW you can decide for yourself just how much noise reduction to use in Canon’s DPPRAW converter. The image on the right compared noise between the Canon EOS 50D, the Canon G11 and the Canon A720is (the latter because it’s currently the P&S digital I own and use). As you can see the 50D is significantly sharper. The G11 image isn’t too noisy, but it’s soft due to the level of noise rediction required to cut down on the intrinsic noise. The A720is is a previous generation of digicam and has an even smaller sensor than that in the G11 and this all shows in its relatively poor performance at ISO 1600 (though it’s very good at ISO 100, like most digicams are).
Bob Atkins
Things get somewhat worse in Low Light mode (see below) where the ISO can be set up to 12800. Resolution is reduced by a factor of two (linear) and the 10MP image from the sensor is recorded at 2.5MP (presumably averaging 4 pixels into one to lower noise). At ISO 4000 the image isn’t too bad for web use but as ISO climbs image quality drops quite a bit. By the time it’s reached ISO 12800 image quality is really pretty bad. Under these conditions the shutter speed is likely to have dropped to the 1/15s minimum and there’s a good chance the image may be underexposed, making noise even worse. At light levels requiring ISO 12800 there isn’t enough light to focus and if the subject is out of range of the AF assist light, you’ll have to go to manual focus. The images above on the left are an absolute “worst case” situation, but as you can see, things can get pretty bad. I should add that the light level for these shots was really low and normally I wouldn’t have attempted to shoot, even with a DSLR.
Low Light Mode
Bob Atkins
Low light mode is selected using the main mode control dial. It puts the camera in medium JPEG mode (RAW recording is not possible) and exposure and ISO control in automatic mode. ISO is selected between 320 and 12800, with a strong bias toward higher ISO and faster shutter speeds in order to minimize camera shake. For example when “P” mode selects ISO 800 at 1/25s, “Low Light” mode selects ISO 3200 at 1/100s and records a 2.5MP 1824×1368 pixel image. Inevitably image quality in Low Light mode is significantly degraded due to both the lower pixel count and the high degree of noise reduction which has to be employed at high ISO settings. The images are certainly usable for web illustration and maybe even small prints, especially below ISO 6400. One strange(?) attribute of the Low Light mode is that it automatically incorporates close focus. In Program and most other modes, focus is from 50cm to infinity and you have to manually select macro mode to get focus from 1cm to 50cm. In Low Light mode you can focus from 1cm (at the wide setting of the lens) to infinity.
Hannah Thiem
Note that Low Light mode is an auto mode, so the camera won’t always let you change settings and does its best to protect you from getting unsharp shots. For example it will not let the shutter speed go slower than 1/15s, even if you are at the wideangle end of the zoom range and could hold the camera steady (with the IS lens’ assistance) at lower shutter speeds. If the ISO has cranked up to 12800, the lens is wide open and the correct shutter speed is less than 1/15s, the camera will use 1/15s and the image will be underexposed. Under these conditions you’d have to switch to program mode, use ISO 3200 and support the camera for a long exposure if you wanted a properly exposed shot.
Macro Mode
Bob Atkins
Macro (close focusing) mode on the G11 is entered by pressing the left hand side of the 4-way controller button on the back of the camera. Like most digicams, maximum magnification is obtained with the lens at its widest setting. In the case of the G11 this allows focusing down to within less than 1/4" of the front of the lens! The area covered at maximum magnification is about that of a postage stamp. There is very noticeable barrel distortion at maximum magnification, but that can be digitally corrected either in an image editor or in Canon’s DPP software if RAW file mode is used for image storage. With the lens zoomed to the telephoto setting, maximum magnification is significantly lower and closest focusing is about 18". Either manual or autofocus can be used in macro mode.
Video
Somewhat surprisingly, the G11 does not support HD video, something which just about every other new P&S digicam does. It offers 640×480 or 320×240 pixels at 30fps. Video is encoded in using H.264 and stored in the QuickTime .mov format.
Why HD isn’t offered I don’t know for sure. I believe Canon claim technical reasons rather than any marketing decision. The Powershot S90 (which uses the same sensor) doesn’t offer HD video either so it could be sensor related. The sensor is CCD rather than CMOS, though there are certainly CCD based digicams that do have HD video recording capability, including Canon’s own SD940, SD980 and SX20. There may be something about this particular sensor that doesn’t allow for rapid readout at the data rates required for HD video. Like most digicams, you can’t optically zoom while shooting video. You can “digitally zoom”, though that’s a feature that is probably best avoided if possible since image quality degrades. The IS does operate when shooting video which helps to stabilize handheld operation.
Flash
Bob Atkins
The Powershot G11 has a small built in flash which has the usual limitations of P&S flashes. It’s not very powerful, recycling can be slow (up to 10 seconds worst-case) and it’s close to the axis of the lens (which promotes “red-eye”). However it can be useful in certain situations and since it’s built into the camera, it’s always there! The flash has a number of options including Auto, Auto w/Red-eye Reduction, Flash On, Flash On w/Red-eye Reduction, Flash Off; FE lock, Safety FE, Slow Sync and Second-curtain sync. The internal flash sync speed of the G11 is 1/2000sec (the G10 was 1/500s).
The strong point of the G11 when it comes to flash photography is that it has a dedicated hotshoe for Canon Speedlites. This means you can use any Canon EX series Speedlite from the 200EX to the 580EX II and get all the flash features including higher power, bounce flash and wireless flash control (with the 580EX II) etc. The practical sync speed using an external flash may be somewhat longer than 1/2000s due to external flash limitations, but you’ll probably get at least 1/1000s sync OK.
Hannah Thiem
Conclusion
The Canon Powershot G11 may be the best P&S digicam on the market today. It has a wide range of control options, low noise at high ISO (for a small sensor P&S camera), a very good lens, excellent image quality, RAW imaging and provision for external flash and remote release. There’s probably no better “do it all” small sensor digicam then the G11
But it’s not perfect… It doesn’t have HD video. This may not matter to some photographers, but it’s a feature now available on even entry level models and it’s absence on the G11 is notable. Some of the rear control buttons can too easily be pressed by accident when gripping the camera. Not a big deal but it can be annoying. The G11 is also relatively large and heavy for a P&S digicam. You could cram it into your pants pocket, but it would be a tight fit. It slips into a jacket or coat pocket OK, but you know it’s there. Then there is the price and the competition. For $500 you can get an entry level DSLR with a much larger (APS-C or 4/3) sensor for that price. Granted it will be even bigger but image quality at high ISO settings will be better. For a little more you can get one of the new micro 4/3 cameras like the Olympus Pen E-1. They have a body size very similar to the G11, but use a much larger 4/3 sensor. Of course when you add a lens the size goes up, but you can add a lens, you’re not stuck with what’s fixed on the camera.
Hannah Thiem
The G11 is probably an ideal second camera for a serious DSLR shooter to carry around when the size and weight of a full sized professional DSLR is just too much. The controls and menus will be very familiar to anyone who uses an EOSDSLR. If you are shooting at ISO settings below 400 (maybe 800) and you don’t need a lens outside the 28-140mm range, the results from the G11 can be as good as those from a full size DSLR with a good lens. At ISO 80 and 100 the results from the G11 may actually be better than those from an entry level DSLR with a kit lens!
If you want something of equal image quality, but smaller, then the Canon S90 uses the same sensor and processing engine. It’s much smaller, but it lacks the articulating LCD screen of the G11, uses menus and buttons for settings rather than dials like the G11 for setting ISO and EC plus it lacks provision for mounting an external Speedlite. It’s a bit more of a traditional “point and shoot” camera – though it does have a RAW mode like the G1 It’s also a stop faster at 28mm (f2 vs. f2.8) so it may be even better then the G11 for wideangle shots in low light.
Where to buy
The Canon PowerShot G11, (compare prices) is available from Photo.net’s partners and purchasing via these links helps support photo.net.
G11 Example Images
Bob Atkins
Autoexposure on the G11 has done a creditable job in this image of a white car. The inset histogram shows that the camera has chosen an exposure that does not clip the highlights.
Bob Atkins
Here’s a comparison of JPEG and RAW shots. On the left the JPEG image straight from the camera has lost detail in the highlights—the overhead wires don’t show up against the bright sky. On the right these highlights have been recovered from the RAW image using Canon’s DPP software.
Hannah Thiem
Autoexposure demonstration in bright daylight. The dark shapes and reflections in the building and the bright sky are balanced and have good color definition and clarity.
Bob Atkins
Another autoexposure shot. The G11 has sacrificed shadow detail to faithfully reproduce the sky. In fact there is actually quite a lot of detail in the shadows which could be brought out (if desired) by processing of the RAW file.
Hannah Thiem
A night shot using the Low Light mode (the camera set the ISO at 3200), 1/20 sec at f/2.8. Overall decent clarity, minimal noise, and good color rendition, with a slight orange cast that could be due to the street lighting or the ambient light quality. Overall, this camera responds quickly and performs well in low light situations.
Bob Atkins
G11, zoomed to 140mm (equiv) and wide open at f/4.5. This image illustrates one characteristic of all small sensor digicams. The depth of field is large, even with the lens wide open and using a telephoto equivalent focal length. This makes it difficult to blur backgrounds effectively.
How does this camera compare to Panasonic Lumix LX-3? Pana has a faster lens, is smaller and costs about the same. Just wondering how the low light performance of the LX-3 compares to the G11.
I didn't have an LX-3 to do a side by side comparison, but from what I can gether reading other published reviews and user comments, the G11 and LX3 are pretty similar when it comes to high ISO shots. Neither is great, both are better than most other digicams.
Deciding between the two would probably best be based on other features of the two cameras. For example the LX3 has a wider (24mm vs 28mm) and faster lens, but the G11 has a bigger zoom range and goes more than twice as long (140mm vs. 60mm). The LX-3 has a fixed LCD while the G11 has an articulating screen. If you already have a Canon speedlite, then it will work with the G11 but not the LX-3 (and vice versa). The LX-3 has HD video, but the G11 probably has better image stabilization. All these would be more important features than any small difference in high ISO noise.
For me the killer would be the 60mm maximum focal length of the LX-3. That's just too limiting on a something I intend to carry around as a general purpose camera. The 24mm is nice at the wide end, but 60mm is just too short. If I had a more specific use in mind (e.g. interiors or street shooting) maybe a 60mm maximum focal length wouldn't seem so limiting.
Great review, Bob. I bought a G11 in October, and it has been a very nice camera to carry around. If Canon had done two things, it would be a perfect camera -- have a regular front filter thread and lenscap instead of the lens doors and having to use an adapter tube for filters such as a polarizer. Aside from that, I have no complaints other than my fingers touching buttons when I didn't mean to, but that's a trainable problem.
I don't think there's any practical way to have regular threads and a lens cap on a camera like this that retracts its lens fully into the body. While you might be able to do it mechanically (though the lens cap and filter size would by tiny), screwing a filter on to the front might damage the relatively delicate lens extension mechanism (it's not THAT delicate but I'll bet it's not as strong as a larger DSLR lens). There might be real problems if the filter got stuck (which does happen to me from time to time with regular lenses).There could also be nasty consequences if you retracted the lens with an oversize filter attached!
What I do with my P&S (A720is) is just hold a filter (usually a polarizer) up against the front of the lens. Seems to work fine
The version of DPP that I have (3.7.1.1) allows the full suite of corrections to be applied to G11 images. The same corrections as you can apply to any supported DSLR (vignetting, distortion, CA etc.).
I don't know if it supports the G10 RAW files or not.
I just added this G11 P&S to my wishlist. I love how it has essentially nearly the same mode controls as an SLR. Control is good.
Nice review. Amazon has some excellent, lengthy reviews too. Thanks for the work in putting this review together and the attached image files.
I really love my Panasonic LX-3 but I accidentally dropped it off a 3 story building on to concrete. The flash was messed up and I had to manually pull it up but it took the same great photos and although it still worked fine, I switched the Canon G11 thinking it was "more professional" and because it is compatible with my Canon flashes for my DSLR but I'm ready to throw it off a 10 story building already!! 1/3 of my photos are out of focus and it is slow. I've missed and messed up so many shots since I bought it 2 months ago. I've been searching forums trying to find info on why the focusing is so bad but it's not me, it's the camera and the inability to lock the AF. It keeps switching to macro mode even if I'm pointing the camera straight out to a clear distance. I hate the layout of the dials and such. I'm constantly hitting things accidentally and changing the settings. I'm also having problems with the colors and I'm getting some funky yellow tints when I use a bounce flash. I'm gonna keep trying to figure it out but I'm really mad at it right now because I'm going through my Christmas photos and so many of them are out of focus! Grrrrrrrrrr!!
My G10 has been a pleasure to use, but I think I will buy a G11 just for the articulating screen. The folding screen allows for waist level candids and above the head crowd shots and protects the screen when stored. 10 mega pixels is plenty for the size sensor in these cameras. By the way, the guy above should have sent his lemon back to Canon for repair or replacement rather than complain about a host of alleged problems none of which I have ever experienced with any of the many Canon cameras I've owned.
Lemon? I've searched forums and have found a lot of people have been having this problem. If it is a lemon, I'd be delighted actually because I want a good sturdy smaller sized camera that is fast. The LX-3 is just faster and I've become used to that. I was hoping the G-11 was going to be even better and it is in some ways but it's slow and I miss shots with it, and often the camera is out of focus in simple auto mode. If I were taking photos of a sand hill, I doubt I'd be having problems, but I'm not. I'm just rather bothered by Canon's lame auto focusing in all the cameras I have owned by Canon, point and shoot and DSLRs. Sorry.
You have stated that every canon camera you have owned has not ;performed to your expectations but you keep on buying them why. Is there something wrong with you. I like canon cameras quite a lot myself but if I didn't I sure as hell would not keep buying more now would I.
Yes, there is something wrong with me, I have a rare disease and am seeking treatment for it. So forgive me for falling into this problem. I brought my G11 back to the store I bought it from and they said there was nothing wrong with it.
Ok. I tired my best to figure it out but I have come to the conclusion that the LX-3 is simply faster and more reliable regarding focusing and shutter lag for a photographer such as myself than the G11. I could care less for brand names so I'm not judging anything on that. It's from true experience and lot of it. I've shot over 6000 photos with the G11 since I bought it in hundreds of different situations, sure, it's great in many ways but a disappointment for someone who was hoping it would be better than a Panasonic.
And another thing! The external flash on the G11 is lousy as well! I hate using TTL and that is the only option with the speedlight 270EX. How hard is it to design a compact flash with a few manual flash outputs?
Adam: I wonder if you're accidentally hitting the macro button to the left of the LCD, which is right about where some say their thumb accidentally rests sometimes. The G11's controls on the back of the camera are easy to hit by mistake.
I do hit that button with my thumb yes, but the camera just doesn't see very well. I really wish there was a way to turn that button off. I really do like this camera, it's just these few annoying features that bum me out. I figured it being a newer model, things like this would be worked out. It would be a perfect camera if the focusing and shutter lag was better.
A truly amazing camera. Recently returned from a trip to St. Thomas. Left my DSLR behind and took only my G11. I am thoroughly impressed by this marvel camera. Great performance, super sharp lens, astounding contrast and color. and zero... I mean "zero" noise at ISO 80/100, and ISOs 200, 400 and 800 are very impressive. I never missed my DSLR once. Great travel camera for the advanced amateur wanting to travel very light weight. Really fun to use as well.
I've found this pretty interesting camera simulator, actually this is only zoom simulator:
Canon G11 test
This compact Canon PowerShot G11 is a great little camrea. If your looking for highend photo’s go out and buy a highend DSLR. I shoot all types of photos from portraits to macro and everything in between. When I’m out on a shoot I lug a bag of photo gear that would brake the back of the weak, now I take one DSLR and my Canon G11 as a back up to get the job done. The G11 is a fun lovin’ work horse. I’m about to do a shoot with an up and coming fashion model, I will start the job with my G11 to put it to the test, so far the G11 can hold it’s own up against the big DSLR’s. I’m a Nikon guy and realy like the Canon G11. It get’s the job done and does it well.
