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The Contax RTS III is the top of the line Contax SLR camera body. It is also
long in the tooth, having come out in 1990. The III's age is evident in some
missing feautures that other newer SLR's (including the Contax RX and AX) have,
such as custom functions and comprehensive flash - camera communication. However,
for certain purposes, the RTS III is an excellent camera, with features that no
other camera has. Not everyone wants these feautures, and many photographers want
feaures such as autofocusing, that the RTS III lacks.
First, lets look at the the unique feature that the RTS III has - a feature
touted by Contax and disregarded my most commentators. This facinating feature is
the the RTV (Real Time Vacuum) system. Kyocera decided that it should develop a
system to hold the film as flat as possible. In order to accomplish this, Kyocera
engineers determined that it would be necesary to use a vacuum system to suck the
film to the pressure plate. This is accomplished by using a elcro-magnetic rubber
suction diaphram that looks very much like a small loud speaker placed behind the
pressure plate. The pressure plate has three vertical slits, each of which has a
small hole. The small holes extend through the pressure plate. When activated,
the RTV diaphram creates a vacuum, sucking air through the three small holes.
This sucks the film to the pressure plate along the three slits. Kyocera was able
to accomplish the RTV system and still allow the camera to have a high 5 fps
motor speed.
The system works and seems to work reliably. The question is whether it makes
a difference in the quality of photographs. After doing some of my own research
and reading various comments from other sources, the answer seems to be that
there is a barely detectable difference under precise test conditions, but that
it makes no practical difference in the great majority of photographs. If there
is a difference, it is primarily for telephoto lenses at very wide apertures,
where the depth of focus is very small. Nevertheless, it is an interesting
system.
Supporting the RTV system is a very flat pressure plate made of a black
ceramic material. Kyocera is an industry leader in ceramic technology and the tie
to their ceramics group seems to have resulted in a good stroke of synergy.
The RTS III does not need to rely on the RTV system to justify its existance.
Earning its top spot in the Contax line is really more a function of quality and
feel rather than feautures. The camera is heavy and operates with the smoothness,
precision and feel that brings a feeling of satisfaction. Features will not sell
many of these cameras. A Canon Elan II e (let alone a 1n or and F5) can chaulk up
a list of features that blow the RTS III away, but few cameras can claim the
ultra solid feel and precision of the RTS III.
There is one feature that does claim a rather distinct and useful position.
The RTS employs pre- flash TTL spot metering. While other cameras and dedicated
flash units use a pre-flash system, the way that the RTS III's system works is
unique. By turning a small lever on the top right of the camera, the camera stops
down the lens and fires a short pre-flash. The metering is done by a dedicated
TTL spot meter with a 5mm diameter (shown in the viewfinder) reading the light.
The result is registered and locked in memory. The viewfinder contains a display
that shows if the exposure is correct. It also shows if the required illumination
is beyond the capability of the flash unit. The over or under exposure is
displayed up to a maximum of plus or minus two stops on a bar graph. Noting the
displayed information, the photographer can adjust the exposre if desired. As
long as the pre-flash lever is on, the camera will signal the same level of flash
duration. This can result in very accurate flash exposure for the deliberate
photographer. It is less automatic and more accurate than the E-TTL pre-flash
system of Canon (which I also like). Direct traditional TTL flash metering using
a centerweighted metering pattern is also available.
The RTS III controls are virtually all electronic, reporting to two micro
processors which rely on mostly digital rather than analog data. The controls
themselves, however, are mostly traditional knobs and levers. The very small LCD
display on the top panel only shows a limited amount of information including the
number of exposures and a low battery indicator.
The information in the viewfinder is as comprehensive as any SLR. The
information is displayed using white numerals on a blue background under and to
the right of the viewing area. To the right, the LCD display shows the range of
shutter speeds available (from 4 seconds to 1/8000) plus over and under
indicators. Along the bottom is an array of information including shutter speed,
film counter, pre-flash information, flash status, aperture, exposure mode,
exposure compensation warning and metering mode. What else do you want?
Well, some want displayed information that is easier to see in bright sun. I
don't have this problem, but others have commented on it. It you want to use this
camera for extensive field work, your might check this for yourself before you
buy one.
Shutter speeds range from 32 seconds to 1/8000 in Av mode and can be set
manually from 4 seconds to 1/8000 using the wonderfully smooth shutter speed dial
on the top left of the camera. Surrounding this is the exposure mode lever. These
modes are limited to Av, Tv, M and B. There is no program mode, although in Tv
mode, if there is not enough light, the camera will automatically change the
shutter speed to match the available light. It seems that Kyocera deliberately
omitted a program mode, since it would have been a simple task to put one in.
This might have been an (unnecessary) effort to further show that this is no
camera for the non- serious photographer.
The exposure compensation dial can adjust the compensation plus or minus two
stops in 1/3 stop increments. This dial is surrounded by the auto bracketing
conrtol - plus or minus .5 or 1 stop increments. There is no custom function to
determine the order of the bracketed exposures. On the RTS III the order is
normal, over, under. You also don't get automatic film rewinding - the rewind
level must be pressed at the end of the role to activate rewind. Likewise, the
film tail is left out upon rewinding - no choice to have it wound all the way in.
Such custom functions are available in the newer RX and AX.
The mode dial allows single frame shooting or continuous shooting at 3 or 5
fpm, as well as self timer modes for 2 and 10 seconds. There is an electronically
operated depth of field button surrounded by the lever that selects either 3mm
spot metering or center weighted metering. There is very definitely no matrix,
computer controlled, razmo dazzle metering system. The Kyocera brochure makes it
clear that they consider such a metering system to be stuff for the masses.
The main shutter release has a delightful feel. It is surrounded by an AE lock
switch and shutter lock. There is another lockable shutter release for vertical
shots, but its usefulness is questionable. There is a data back for date
information printed between the frames. There is also a true (mechanical) mirror
lock up lever - a rare thing these days.
The viewfinder is bright and big. It has 100% coverage and still manages to be
quite good for me when I use my eyeglasses. The reason --- a very large
pentaprism that accounts for some of the heft of this camera. There is a dioptric
control knob that allows adjustment from plus 1D to minus 3D. Optional diopter
lenses allow this to be extended in either direction.
Power for all this is provided by the user's choice of six AA batteries or one
2CR5 lithium battery. The 2CR5 is lighter but results in a maximum advance rate
of 3 frames per second.
So why would someone buy this camera? I wondered that myself for quite a
while. When I started a Contax SLR system, I first purchased an RX and AX. Both
of these more modern bodies offer more features, cost less, weigh less and are
almost as solidly built. That last phrase is the key to this camera. They are
"almost" as solid. The RTS III is a rock. Frankly, for most purposes the AX or RX
are better cameras, even disregarding the cost difference. I bought an RTS III
simply because it is the most solid camera I have ever used - it is that
simply.
Basically the RTSIII is well explained here. I feel that it has more going for it than just a "solid feel", though.
The film CAN be wound all the way in by simply engaging the rewind button a second time. This takes very little time and effort and should in no way be thought of as a negative aspect of the camera.
I, personally, find the vertical shutter release very useful. The only other current Contax model that offers it is the ST with an optional grip for AA batteries.
Perhaps one of the best reasons for owning this body over any other is the fact that it has the easiest to use mirror lock out there. On the RTSIII you can shoot in aperture-priority AE and lock the exposure (before locking the mirror), then adjust the aperture or exposure compensation dial and even bracket with the mirror locked. All this can be done with gloves on, sice the RTSIII boasts such ergonomic controls. Even the Nikon F5, with all its bells and whistles, has to be put in manual to use the mirror lock. I do a lot of shooting with my Zeiss macro and telephotos on Velvia, which means that I'm usually in that 1 sec. to 1/30th sec zone. The RTSIII offers the the photographer the best shot of realizing the lens' potential.
I, too, love the feel of the camera: that was as important as the lenses in my switch from Nikon. Technically, however, it doesn't quite make the grade for me. I found that reasonably new alkalines went flat when faced w/ a bit of cold shooting some aerials; the finder is also quite dark w/ a variable aperture zoom on it. The dioptric focusing doesn't seem to come in totally sharp, regardless of the setting. As it's better toward the middle of the range, I can't blame my vision for this. Has anyone else had a problem w/ intermittent camera back film printing?
I have a 167MT for some years now and as well now own a 35-70f3.4 zeiss zoom; had a 85mmf1.4 for some time. The lenses are very sharp but the zoom was delicate going back to zeiss twice for tightning over 4 years. My friend says its like a jaguar motor car; I thought it should be built like a porsche for the money. Elsewhere on the net there is someone who states that no other line is there such a disparity in pricing of the bodies but not that much difference in what you get. I've decided against the RTS III due to cost and weight. I'm hoping for an RX if I can find one in great shape less than $850; do you have one for me? I'm building on a Nikon N70/N90s system till I work out this cost/ quality issue or I run out of miney whichever comes first; I badly want a 100mm Zeiss macro but at $1800 kinda steep.
I've had an RTSIII for about six months now. The controls are excellent, but it did take a little time for me to be completely comfortable. In very bright light, the manual display of currently set shutter speed can be hard to see. In very cold weather, the 2CR5 (even lithium) doesn't seem to last too long, and this is especially true of power hungry operations like the motor drive. Judging from what I read, this is not uncommon for other cameras either. I have not had any maintenance problems with any Contax product except for an RTS & Lens which was purchased already needing maintenance. I would prefer a manual metering display similar to the flash meter graphic display (like the Minolta 600si) to the current system of matching the flashing shutter speed to the non-flashing one.
I have been using my RTS III since January 1992. I have had some trouble with it: the batteries went flat only after a few rolls; the mount wore out (admitted, I change lenses quite a lot), and the little plugs just seem to be made to fall out. ;-)
But I love the vertical shutter button, its (if it's not broken) robustness, and the pictures it produces (when I have a really good day). Yes, it was darn expensive, but it's gonna be with me for a very long time - and that's what it was designed for anyway. [7 Sep. 1999 update: the body went for repair soon after I wrote the original post. Since then the RTS III has performed very well - as you can see in my gallery. ;) ]
I bought an RTS III to change over from the abandoned OM system, and as most Contax users, to take advantage of the Zeiss optics. I do a lot of macro with plenty of flash use. The RTS III is a camera that does away with any bells and whistles, such as useless program automatic, unpredictable matrix metering, and mindumbing custom functions in fashion these days. Cudos to Contax for taking a bold step.
I was disappointed that exposure is not adjusted to changing light levels that is critical for longer time exposure with changing cloud cover, for instance [OM4 does that beautifully]. It is also a problem when using mirror lock-up (generally a plus) as it may take a few seconds to accomplish it without disturbing the rest of the set-up. Additionally, TTL controlled flash does not work with mirror lock-up, which would be usefull in greater than life-size macro and fill-flash.
The TTL synchro time can be fixed at 1/200s (set exposure dial at 1/250) with dedicated flash such as the TLA 360, however, the dial does not lock at 1/250. I prefer to keep the synchrotime rather short, as I usually shoot with the 100 mm macroplanar in relatively bright conditions, so the ambient light level often is around 1/30s. That will lead to ghosting if the synchro time is at 1/60 (camera default with ambient light < 1/60).
Changing from the OM4 where I rated Provia 100F at ISO100, I now rate RPDIII at ISO 125 on the RTS III. So when switching cameras, do check the exposure rating for the new system. I have shot some Color Infrared (Kodak EIR), with no problems what-so-ever.
A couple of times, the bateries died on me without any warning. According to the manual, in the image counter should display a low battery waring, but using NiMH recharables, the camera went dead one second to the next. So, carry spare batteries/recharables. I am shooting in Southern California, so usually it's pretty warm.
In general, this is a rock-solid camera that has all the essential functions and none of the useless gimmicks. The only question I have left is, when I'm going to buy a second body for backup.
I've used the RTS, the RTSIII, and the Aria. My RTS III is a wonderful camera to use (nicely manual which I like) but heavy and in recent years I've developed an electronic fault in the viewfinder that resulted in one speed being illuminated in addition to the speed that should be illuminated. My tech said replacing the module was very expensive and moved this errant speed to LT which means I can use the camera normally except that LT always looks lit up. It's still one of my favorite cameras.
I've had 3 RTS I's but they're just about irrepairable now due to lack of parts for the electronics (and the RTS I has design problems in this area so finding donor cameras is pretty hard). Supposedly the RTSII is nearly identical but corrects these design defects.
The Aria is just about my favorite camera of all time except for the Leica M2. It has GREAT manual modes, it's tough, lightweight, and takes great pictures. I especially like the metering bar on the bottom that shows you how far off the meter value you are when you're on manual.
I tend to use the RTS III when I'm using something like Tech Pan and operating not far from my car. When I have to walk far I prefer the Aria (or my M2).
Over a decade ago, Bob Royse typed:
"The only other current Contax model that offers it is the ST with an optional grip for AA batteries."
Since NONE of the Contax gear is "current" any more, I'll add that the 139Q with winder has a useful feature. The shutter release on its grip is active even when the winder is off and film can still be advanced manually. That allows one to use it in situations where the sound of the winder would be distracting. Wonder if this is true of the other bodies that have optional grips?
One other tip -- when the grip is on the 139Q, in order for the AE lock to work the manual advance lever has to be active, i.e., away from the body.
