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HP PhotoSmart C912 Digital Camera

by Patrick Hudepohl

The company I work for has bought an HP PhotoSmart C912 digital camera and I am able to borrow it from time to time, as do my colleagues. I found that digital photography encourages me to experiment much more than film does; the extremely low cost per image and the instant review possibilities certainly account for that. And it would appear that my colleagues are attracted to the camera as well: it was used on two ski holidays, is borrowed every week by someone and we now all take pictures around the office.

The C912 is an SLR-type camera with a fixed zoom lens. This means that the system is sealed against dust (read Philip's review of the Nikon D1 to find out how great it is to have dust on your CCD element). This also means that you will have to make do with the Pentax power-zoom lens, period. The camera is, by the way, not a true SLR: instead of having a mirror, there is a beam-splitting prism that directs part of the light to the viewfinder and part of the light to the CCD sensor. At exposure time, the viewfinder goes black as does the LCD screen on the back. It produces 2.2 megapixel images, quite sufficient for snapshots, insufficient for serious work. The camera has some annoying deficiencies and presents a few quirks, but is nevertheless a lot of fun to work and play with.

The real price

Depending on your shooting style, you may wish to get (at least) a 128 MB CF card (April 2001: $230 for the Sandisk at Ritz Camera). This should be able to hold some 140 images in full resolution, JPEG, best quality. Note that during longer trips, this will not be enough and you will have to bring a laptop for editing, or buy even more memory. Do not rely on the built-in LCD screen for editing: you can't properly determine if a picture is really in focus. Also note that, as far as I'm concerned, using a lower resolution or JPEG-quality makes no sense.

Independent of your shooting style, it would be wise to get the optional lithium battery pack (April 2001: $100 for the kit, including charger aka AC adapter), and perhaps a spare battery. Running the camera on AA-type batteries is not such a good idea: LCD screen, powerzoom and built-in flash require a lot of power.

Add these prices to the $750 (April 2001, Adorama) for the camera itself, and you're looking at $1080 for a working solution. Of course, don't forget the PC, CD-writer, printer and Photoshop -- but that applies to all digitals.

Handling

One thing I noticed immediately is how well the camera fits my hands. The moulded shape is well thought-out and controls are generally easily accessible. A large exposure-mode selector is located on the left, there is a zoom ring on the lens (as opposed to a "rocker switch" found on video cameras) and the right hand grip simply fits. All important controls, except manual focussing and focussing range, are accessible without using the LCD screen menu system. It would have been nice if the camera had been fitted with a second command wheel so that you would be able to set aperture with one and shutter speed with the other. Alternatively, a lens with an aperture ring would have been nice as well.

The optical viewfinder is very nice to use; much better than with most point-and-shoot cameras, with all the necessary information displayed below the image. Diopter adjustment is possible by turning the eyepiece. Since LCD screens tend to be pretty much useless when used outdoors, I am very pleased to find that the viewfinder of the C912 works so well. For right-eyed people, it is also located favorably (on the left side of the camera, so your nose won't bump into the LCD screen).

Very nice touch: this camera is equipped with a sensor or switch that enables it to determine whether it's held horizontally or vertically. There is no need to manually rotate images shot vertically after downloading them to your PC. Needless to say, this feature also comes in very handy when using the TV-Out jack. Nice touch number two: a remote control is included (take that Nikon, charging $55 for an MC-30 that's not even wireless).

Somewhat annoying (and definitely distracting) is the weird aperture trick this camera performs. Probably depending on the level of light, the camera appears to stop down the aperture (and open up when pressing the shutter release to focus, then close down again). Equally annoying is the fact that the camera resets various settings upon power-off, such as zoom setting, aperture and exposure correction.

As seems to be the case with many other digital cameras: it is not modeless. It's is either in playback mode or in recording mode. This makes catching a great shot while reviewing some images quite unlikely. I must say that this has not been a major problem for me.

It crashes. That is to say, during several hundreds of pictures taken so far, the camera crashed twice. This not being a scientifically correct camera test, I am not ashamed to simply state that "I didn't really do anything; it just crashed, I don't know why". ( And then us IT-people laugh at users calling us with such sloppy bug reports... )

The camera is rather slow. Perhaps I'm a spoiled little brat with my Nikon F100, but I think the C912 is unsuitable for fast shooting as it needs some time to write data to the CF card. You usually can't snap off more than 2 consecutive shots.

Pentax powerzoom lens

The C912 is fitted with a Pentax powerzoom lens (8.2 - 25.8 mm, f/2.5 - f/3.9, this is equivalent to 34 - 107 mm in 35mm). This makes the camera unsuitable for dramatic wide angle shots, as well as for telephoto sports photography. The lens accepts 49 mm filters.

Although 34 mm is limited, it is still possible to use it for some environmental portraiture:

Sadly, the wide angle setting of the lens shows a horrible amount of distortion:

34 mm 60 mm 107 mm

You'd better stick to autofocus with this camera: manual focus is only possible when using the LCD display and even then you have to use the gamepad on the camera back to select a focussing distance. Furthermore, you have to use the menu system to switch between normal focussing range and macro focussing. A bit clumsy is the fact that the camera does display focal length in playback mode, but not in record mode. There is no depth-of-field preview available.

The camera has a single, central AF sensor which can be set to wide or narrow (just like with the F90X or F70, two older SLR models from Nikon). AF operation is good, albeit somewhat slow. The camera can be set to either AF Lock (camera must acquire focus, which you can lock by pressing the shutter release halfway down) or Continuous AF (camera can fire at any instant).

Image quality

The C912 has a 2.24 megapixel CCD sensor, resulting in 1600 by 1200 pixel images. This format causes a more square image than you would get in 35mm photography. Personally, I found this rather interesting as many subjects can be framed quite adequately. In fact, I'll admit that from time to time, I crop a 35 mm film scan to a square size. Perhaps one day a real 'Blad will make my camera bag truly heavy :-)

The camera can be set to ISO 25, 50, 100, 200 and 400. The higher ISO settings 200 and 400 are not very useful: the images display a lot of noise, especially in the shadow areas. This is really a pity, since film photography allows us to use ISO 400 and 800 with very good results (Fuji Press 800 comes to mind).

ISO 25 ISO 100 ISO 400

The images the C912 produces are not really sharp or crispy by default; you will need to do some work in Photoshop (using the Unsharp mask tool) to make the images "pop". Incidentally, I give scans from my Nikon Coolscan LS-30 the same treatment before publishing them on a website.

Flash photography

In general, I find available light photography more pleasing than flash photography. This applies to indoor flash photography in particular. If you must use flash, then please do not use a built-in one, but rather an external flash with bouncer. Combine it with fast film (ISO 400 and up) and a manually set exposure (e.g., do not let the camera set 1/60 @ f/8 or worse, but set 1/30 @ f/5.6 yourself).

If you must use the built-in flash of the C912, then please experiment beforehand. Below are the results of a small experiment I did with a very low amount of available light (1/3 @ f/7.4 on ISO 400). I prefer the "Auto, no flash" and "Manual, flash" images because they preserve the ambient light. Please note that results may be somewhat different if you are shooting larger scenes (e.g., a party) because of the greater difference between background and foreground.

Auto, no flash Av, flash Manual, flash Auto, flash

You can use an accessory flash in the C912's standard hot shoe; this will allow you to have more control over your flash images. Note that you will not have TTL-flash metering available (as you would have with combinations like Minolta 700si and 5400HS or Nikon F100 and SB28).

One thing that annoyed me is the fact that the camera would sometimes refuse to fire the flash in Auto mode even when there was serious backlight. Apparently, it decided flash wasn't necessary. Invariably, these shots were useless because of the lack of a fill-flash. I know the camera can be set to "force flash", but after a couple of shots (and switching the camera off between them), I forgot. Besides, I think it would be better if the camera always fires the flash when it's popped up or if the camera would make more intelligent decisions on whether or not to use the flash.

On the other hand, if there is a fair amount of available light (but no backlight), you can rely on the C912 to use flash quite nicely in Auto mode. The camera controls white balance and exposure very adequately.

PhotoSmart system

The camera can communicate via IR with HP JetSend devices, such as the HP PhotoSmart P1100 printer. This means that you use the review mode of the camera to select the images you want printed, push a few buttons to activate the camera-to-printer send function and plonk the camera down in front of your printer. Insert some photo paper and the prints will come out.

Alternatively, you can remove the CF card from the camera and insert it into the HP Photosmart printer (which accepts both Compact Flash and Smartmedia). Use the menu system on the printer to select the images you want to have printed (note: there is no preview) and that's it.

And this is what I use:

  • Insert the CF card into the printer
  • Use the Windows Explorer to copy all images to the hard drive. Warning: transfering 35 images from a card takes about 9 minutes (printer connected via USB to a Pentium II 400 MHz machine).
  • Start either Paint Shop Pro (for its excellent browse function) or Photoshop (because I'm used to working with it) to weed out the images I don't want to keep.
  • Edit the remaining images in Photoshop to crop, rotate, level and adjust as needed and to create website-sized and thumbnail versions of the images.
  • Store the images on a CD-R disc.

I then use my own PhotoDB application to store data about the photographs (caption, keywords and technical details) in a database. Optionally, I use PhotoDB to create a web gallery for publication on the internet or for a slide show.

Conclusion

You may think that I have a lot to complain about the HP PhotoSmart C912 digital camera. As a serious amateur photographer, I do and I think I am not being unfair. It should be noted, however, that at $750, this SLR-type camera is much cheaper than an Olympus E-10, Canon D30 or Nikon D1. With that in mind, I think HP delivered quite an impressive camera. Using it as an advanced point-and-shoot, this camera will definitely be able to create a very nice digital (family) photo album.

But, the C912 is not a point-and-shoot camera; its SLR-type design and features mean it's targeted at serious (amateur) users. And in that respect it simply does not compare favourably to film based cameras. The end result of the using the camera is a nagging feeling that I can achieve much better results by simply loading some colour negative film in my 35mm camera. I then have a wider range of lenses available as well as a wide range of film types.

More images

Here are a few more images, from the Zaanse Schans, The Netherlands:

More information

Background

I am an amateur photographer, used to handling Nikon equipment: Nikon FE, F601 (N6006) and an F100. I use both zoom lenses (AF 24-50/3.3-4.5, AF 70-210/4-5.6) and prime lenses (AI 24/2.8, AF 35/2.0, AF 105/2.8 Micro). Other preferences include the use of matrix metering, exposure mode A (aperture priority), tripod, slide film and film scanner.

I will keep using the C912 (well, provided my employer doesn't object), but at this moment I will not yet venture into digital photography myself. Quality (or rather, the lack of maturity at present) and my investment in Nikon SLR gear keep me from doing it. Perhaps in a few years, an affordable "digital Olympus mju-II" will be available, or an F100-priced Nikon digital body.

More information is available on my website (most importantly perhaps: a few short equipment reviews of the Nikon gear mentioned).

Product photography was done by Ruud Rozemeyer, assisted by me. We used his Minolta Dynax (Maxxum) 700si camera mounted with a Minolta AF 100/2.8 Macro lens. Film was Fuji Press 800. Great film for various indoor stuff, but not particularly intended for product photography; we know. We also learned a bit about brown ceilings and reflections. All other images were made with the HP C-912 camera. Test images (e.g., to show distortion, noise or flash results) have not been Photoshopped, except for resizing or cropping.


Patrick Hudepohl( email).

Article created April 2001

Readers' Comments


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Kurt Olender , May 03, 2001; 05:07 P.M.

The aspect ratio of the image area is 4x5, which allows enlargement to 8x10 with no cropping. Most point-and-shoot digicams are 3x4.

The HP Photosmart 912 is identical to the Pentax EI-2000. The Pentax version does not appear to be sold in the US, but is available in other countries. Pentax has announced a 3MP version of this camera to be available in the summer of 2001.

I've found that since the controls, handling, and capabilities are similar to a lot of entry-level SLR's, and with the instant feedback of digital and ability to take a lot of shots at no additional cost, it makes a good vehicle for learning about composition and exposure.

DOF preview may be less important than on a film camera, since the review function gives you "DOF postview".

Andrew Grant , May 03, 2001; 07:06 P.M.

A digital version of the F100 will always cost significantly more than a F100 film body. However, with a digital SLR, you do not need to buy film and have it processed. You do not need a film scanner either. Those can be quite expensive. The low end digital SLR bodies are now in the mid $2K range, less than a couple of AFS zoom lenses. If you consider the cost of a scanner and film processing, a digital SLR does not add that much cost to a SLR system. The ability to reshoot your screw ups and to experiment make them worth the premium IMHO.

The "SLR" feature of the C912 is very interesting. In other respects, it seems to be a very expensive 2MP point and shoot. 3MP point and shoots are available from Canon or Olympus for about the same price. You would lose the TTL viewfinder but, if you can't focus with it, so what.

Patrick Hudepohl , August 30, 2001; 04:43 P.M.

And there I was, thinking I'd written a good review when I received an e-mail message from Dr. Jose M. Paliza, who said he was looking for a camera that would allow me to take "close-up" pictures of mamography films with resolution enough to see small calcifications. Mamography films? Small calcifications? Ooops, I guess I missed a few tests.

Here's an attempt to answer the question. I took a slide (Fuji Sensia 100, shot with a Nikon F601 (N6006 in the US) through an AF Zoom Nikkor 24-50 at about 28mm, with tripod, cable release and all. I placed it onto a lightbox, mounted the C912 on a tripod and made a few exposures.

In the attached image (which is rather large as I wanted to preserve as much quality as possible), the C912 image is on top. Below that are two portions (!) of a scan made with a Nikon Coolscan III (LS-30).

I realize putting a slide on a lightbox and snapping off a shot is not the ideal way to reproduce the image, but for the moment, that's all the testing I can do. I hope it helps somewhat.

Image Attachment: C912ontop-LS30below.jpg


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