Happy Mother's Day! Happy Father's Day! Happy Graduation! Photo.net has great photography gift ideas for the Mom, Dad, or Grad in your life. Shop for camera bags, lenses, DSLRs, and more...
Clubs, bars, and small venues are the places where most concert and live music photographers get their start, the reason being that there are fewer restrictions since the performers are less likely to...
I've been thinking about getting into medium format for a long time. I've
owned 35mm
Canon cameras for about
twenty years, and a
Calumet Cadet for
almost two, and I'm pleased with the results I get from both. The grain-free
enlargements from 4x5 originals are great, and the convenience of autofocus 35mm
cameras is really nice, but I kept longing for larger negatives than 35mm without
the hassle of 4x5. Enter medium format.
After a few days of researching the subject, I found a few alternatives to
$20,000 Rolleis and decided to try Calumet's
$120 offering: the Seagul WWSC 120 TLR.
Easy enough to use
These days, unpacking and using an autofocus 35mm camera for the first time
can be daunting, even with entry-level bodies. The array of features is immense,
and the manuals are often lacking. In contrast, the Seagull is Just Plain
Simple:
Open the camera, load film, close the camera
Uncover the lens, unfold the viewfinder hood, compose, focus
Adjust shutter speed, lens aperture
Shoot, advance film
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Loading the film
There's a rotating knob on the bottom of the camera, the exercise is to rotate
it to the "O"pen position, and then opening the body. Load the film on the
bottom, thread it, insert the leader in the take-up spool, remove the slack and
advance it with the wind-up crank until the arrows on the paper backing align
with the markings on the body. Close the camera. No surprises here.
Composing and focusing
The viewscreen is fairly bright, and there's a built-in focusing loupe you can
pop-up and help you focus. There's also a split-prism focusing aid in the center
of the screen.
Using a waist-level finder was a new experience for me. I got used to it
fairly quickly, though I did have some surprise elements creep into the slide
that I did not see while composing the shot. This is because of parallax: the
viewing lens is slightly higher than the taking lens. With practice, however, you
can learn to correct for this limitation. You can use an eye-level finder after
focusing, basically, you put down the front side of the hood, and look through a
square opening on the rear side of the hood. The focusing knob is well dampened,
and it has the very useful DOF markings.
Taking the picture
The shutter goes from 1 second to 1/350, plus B, and since it's a leaf
shutter, sync is achieved at all speeds. There's a self-timer, and you can
screw-in a standard cable release. Neat feature: multiple exposures of the same
frame are possible.
The camera does not have a built-in light meter. I've been using my Minolta
Spotmeter F, and I shot a few frames following the Sunny/16 rule.
There's a hot shoe on the side, above the focusing knob, and a PC connector on
the front.
Unloading the film
Once you shot the last frame (you get twelve), you just keep on turning the
crank until you hear the rollfilm leave the original spool. Crank a few more
times, to be on the safe side, and open the camera. Moisten the paper leader,
attach it to the roll, and pull the roll off the camera. Then take it or send it
to one of the
labs recommended elsewhere in
this website, or your favorite pro-lab.
Sharp lens, too bad the vignetting
I hope some day to have some sample scans online, meanwhile, you'll have to
take my word for it: the lens suffers from severe vignetting from f3.5 to f5.6,
and moderate from f8.0 on. It's tolerable, particularly with print film, past
f16. However, I found the lens to be sharpest at f11, so if you like shooting
slide film, you'll have problems if your subject matter includes a lot of
uniformly lit surfaces near the edges (say, the sky on a landscape).
Film choices
The camera only accepts 120 format film, contrary to what's stated in the 1998
"Essentials" catalog from Calumet, which says it'll take both 120 and 220. The
number of available emulsions is higher in 120 format, but some people like
having 24 exposures per roll.
Summary: a good value
If you're looking for a new camera to get started in medium format, the
Seagull WWSC is a great value, at around $100 or so. I'm not aware of cheaper MF
cameras (I know about Holgas, but my definition of "camera" includes the term
"light-tight box"...).
Related links
Lens table,
comparing focal lengths for different film sizes
While the Seagull is, as far as I know, your only option if you want a brand new TLR, there are many other, better, used TLR-style cameras that can be had for as cheap or cheaper than the Seagull. For example, the older Yashica models which use the Mat 124's better Yashinon lens can be found on Ebay for $50-$80. Used Rollei TLRs can also be found, but they are typically somewhat overpriced because of their reputation. The Mamiya C series offers interchangeable lenses in a TLR-style body.
My personal recommendation, though, is if you want better quality and a good price, look for a used Minolta Autocord. They have a frighteningly sharp and contrasty Rokkor lens that will absolutely blow away the Seagull's and certainly match most of the Rollei's lenses. They also had a straight film path until after the frame is exposed (gives better film flatness), double exposure capability, PC-socket for flash sync, and are built like a tank.
This is by no means meant to be an authoritative answer, and I suggest if the reader wants more information on classic TLRs they try searching the forums here about the Autocord or Yashica TLRs. But the Seagulls are lousy quality for how much you will pay for them new, especially considering that there's a ready supply of better quality, working TLRs on the used market.
I just bought a Yashica Mat 124G on ebay. Camera seems in reasonable shape. However, the light meter doesn't work and I can't figure out where the battery is, nor can I figure out how to get the top off to clean the glass.
The Yashica Mat124G is a great camera, especially for what they cost. Some have fungus problems on the lens, so check that out before buying. Yashica probably would have kept manufacturing them, except that their master molds wore out (from what I've been told).
On the left (port) side of the camera are, starting from the bottom, the 1. Spool-locking knob (bottom), 2. battery chamber (it's pretty flat, but has a knurled ridge around the circumfirance), 3. focusing/film indicator knob along with the depth of field scale, 4. Spool-locking knob (top), 5. Accessory shoe (not-hot), and 6. Carrying strap lug.
On the right (starboard) side, you have the 1. Winding crank (clockwise until it stops, then reverse a half wind, where you can fold it back to the body), 2. Exposure reminder window, 3. Exposure Counter, 4. Carrying strap lug, and 5. Film-speed control
The Mat-124G uses a 1.3V battery, Eveready EPX-13 or equivalent. Positive side faces out.
Electronic flash works at all shutter speeds (use the X terminal).
Don't forget to set the pressure plate on the inside of the back to the correct film setting (either 12 for 120 film or 24 for 220 film).
I have a Yashica Mat and have had a few issuses with it. The first is that when I use a cable release it vignets in the bottom corner of the image. The second is that there is no bulb setting on the shutter and I enjoy taking sunset pictures which frequently require shutter speeds in excess of 1 second. The last is the use of common filters. It took a long time for me to find an adapter to use my 49mm filter on my Yashica Mat. If you don't mind shooting handheld it is an enjoyable camera to use and I have gotten good results with it.
I had decided to try MF so did a lot of shopping. One very jnice place here in Dallas, Don's Used Cameras, advised me to try a Seagull. It seemed nice enough but based on comments here and elsewhere I decided to hold out for either a Yashica Mat or Autocord. After just missing out on a mint Autocord on E Bay I found a really clean Yashica Mat (the first and meterless one) and won the auction. It was everything the seller claimed and more. OMIGOD so glad I waited, I adore this camera. It forces you to slow down versus my Hexar. But the results are well worth it.
I'm in agreement with Lili, I was going to get something cheaper in the way of a TLR but decided to wait till I could get something a little more expensive, after I'd heard things about the Seagull, specifically that while some of the new Seagulls were great little performers, others were problematic, with shutters jamming and transports misbehaving: apparently a quality control issue? I held out (for a LONG time) for a Mamiya C330S, which I now have and love. But I think the whole TLR experience is one that shouldn't be passed up. It's a whole different thing from jamming an SLR or rangefinder against your face! People seem to like being photographed with it, the TLR looks cool to them, and it certainly presents a non-aggressive image for them to stand comfortably in front of.
I own a Yashica mat 124g. Does anyone know if there are adapters available for filters (55mm) and/or if there are filters available in the market for yashica?
I just bought my first Medium Format Camera - the YASHICA MAT-124G on ebay. Other ones being bid on seem to be going for about $150-$160. This one has the manual, the original box ...just a few nice-to-have's and I didn't feel like nickel and diming with an auction, so I did the 'Buy it Now'. Maybe I paid $50 more than I should have but if I did, I wouldn't know yet, and if I did overpay, I don't care ...it's tax time and I bought myself something with part of my return. I saw some other Yashica Medium Formats on ebayexpress.com in the upper $200's and mid $300's. I like to think I'd paid fair market value for this. You can view the camera on ebay click here and let me know what kind of deal you think I got. (I know this ebay listing won't be active for more than a few months so hopefully I get some feedback while this is fresh.
Based on what you're looking at, what do you think? And since I don't have any other accessories (adapters, filters, other lenses) to add to it, what will my limitations be using the camera as it is? I enjoy photographing scenery, building, landscapes, and simple objects (I don't plan on photographing people with this camera anytime soon). Any comments or suggestions would be great.
I too, have recently become interested in medium format (up until now I've only done 110 & 35.) I was interested in the Seagull as well and saw one in a bookshop here, but was told by a friend that they don't last long. $250(?) seems a lot of money for a Holga-esque TLR, especially when used Japanese TLRs can be had for next to nothing.
On auctions I just bought a Yashicaflex A - living in Japan means there are old Japanese TLRs all over the place. Some go for around $30 and are in good condition.
You got a heck of a good deal! I paid that much for mine - and it came without a box or the instructions. Mine was and is in mint condition as well. We both have fine TLR cameras! Have fun cranking and clicking.
Hello All!
I have used a Yashica MAT 124G that I purchased new from the Cdn distibutor in 1981! I have the leather case, lens hood, selection of filtres & the close-up lenses.
This unit has proven itself as a back up for my other med-format camera while shooting weddings & doing commercial work. The images has always been tack sharp! Reasonable close-ups may be obtained using the acc. lenses...it works in temp ranges from -30F to +30F..fine & foul. 120 + 220 film...no interchagable lenses, but; wide angle & tele attachements are out there...not sure on those..have't used either.
Cheers,
Richard
PS. When purchased, cost = $95.00CDN....U did get a reat price!
Hello everyone. Since 1963 I have had one or more Yashica Mat's around and have used them almost daily. Off and on they go in for CLA's and perform faultlessly for 5 years or more if one is not terrible harsh on the film advance winding. Kiss the on board light meter's good-by for what-ever model you get....an old but working Weston II will run sock's off even the 124G models. Need filters?...purchase a Bay 1 to 49mm or 52mm adapter and use the filters you most likely have in your 35mm camera kit... a rubber len's shade might set you back about $10 max on Ebay. All together, I think of the various Yashica's with the Yashinon len's as great, and I do own a complete Mamiya C-33 set up that is still trucking along!! My "opion" on the Seagull,,, well just about everyone know's what seagulls do on the dock!..Enjoy, Bill
While I don't own a Seagull TLR, I do happen to own a Mamiya C330 with a 105 lens. The quality of images is staggering even to my wild imagination. I made the switch from 35mm to MF and almost exclusively use the Mamiya. Did I mention that I bought the kit for under $200? A real bargain for a quality piece of equipment.
I am currently using a Seagull 4A. It's an OK camera. It doesn't perform very well if you try unusual techniques. It's good for basics, and if you are inventive it can provide you with some unique opportunities. I like the view finder. It is fairly bright and clear. Unfortunately the viewing lens is a f 2.8 while the lowest setting for the picture taking lens is 3.5. This means the picture you're looking at will never be present on film, however it is close enough. There are also some quirks, for example the film loading in my camera (an older specimen) if not done properly will stagger you pictures on the film. One person told me it was the clutch mechanism ... I really don't believe so. If you replace the film immediately following the instructions exactly you will be fine. If however through the position piece it shows 0 before loading the film, pictures will come staggered.
The lens ... well if you plan on using color film for "interesting" pictures only it is good enough. If you are looking for ultimate realism ... then choose a different camera.
I personally like the 4A. If used properly it can render some very interesting results and some very good pictures. I am of the persuasion that, although the equipment is important and the newest is best, it is the photographer which ultimately takes the picture. If one knows what they are doing this is the camera that will provide ultimate simplicity for medium format.
I have a couple of pictures taken with this camera available.
I don't understand why someone would waste money on a Holga, Seagull or even Yashica tlr when for slightly mnore you can get a good Rolleiflex. The Yashica 124s Weren't anything special when they where new and now you just read stories about the problems they have. The Holgas shouldn't even be considered a real camera and the Seagull isn't much better. Read the posts, save your money and get a good camera. BTW I have a Rollieflex T, nothing special as Rolleis go, but I've had it around 35 years and it still shoots great pictures. 1 trip to the shop 20 years ago for cleaning and thats been it.
The problem you experienced with the "staggered frames" or overlapping exposures is due to the clutch malfunction. The teeth are probably worn by the two cogs which oppose each other and are in constant contact on the mechanism. This is very easy to fix. You can file the teeth deeper and apply some wheel bearing grease to the mechanism to prevent wear. If you are using the camera in cold weather use graphite instead of grease.
Another common problem occurs when the counter will not advanced throwing off the otherwise well tuned advance mechanism. There is a lever which fits into the teeth of the numbered dial behind the window, this lever must be able to move freely in order to fit into the teeth of the numbered wheel. One way the the lever can become obstructed is if the camera housing, the exterior plate that houses the mechanics, is deformed. This plate is made of cheap aluminum and with violent winding or with a knock can become deformed. To solve this problem you can raise the plate above the mechanisms under it so that it won't interfere with any movements. You can fashion some spacers to put under the plate of get some washers to stack under the screws.
This is a friendly easy to fix camera but it is a very low quality copy of the Rollie.
I have a Yashica 635, it can shoot 120 or 35mm. I have owned it since 1971 and it has never failed me. It has been treated rough and been in some bad conditions. When my son was 18months, he dragged it around like a pull toy.There are a lot of Yashicas TLR's on ebay for good prices.
I have a seagull 120, a zero image 120 format pinhole, a kiev 88 and a holga in my 120 format collection. add a nikon D80 with assortment of nikon, zeiss and other lenses. For the minor outlay in cash, I think the seagull is a great camera and has amazing fidelity. its better than the digital, still. I use the digital to set the film camera and get some rockin' photos. if its weddings its one thing, but I'm an artistic photog and am allowed the creative freedom to use the tool that best achieves the energies intended. To learn how to set your photos manually, its the cheapest new 120 camera I could find, and it does wonderful pics. for a few hundred more, the kiev has better glass ( ya'd think????) and the focus is tighter. I still love my seagull.
seagull wwsc 4a-103 & 109--- i have been a photographer for 25 years now and i have used many a camera, in 1997 i bought a seagull camera as a way into medium format and i loved it, 13 years on and i have sold this to my good friend who also uses it frequently, no hastle, no trouble, with great results
i missed the camera so much i have bought a brand new 109 with genuine case from kauser internatonal uk for £229 all in as a special offer and one i couldnt resist! (i bought my first one from him too) it is well built, a great leather case, the new f2.8 viewing lens gives the genuine frensel screen a bright image, the focusing is smooth and the new top cover is an improvment from the old and the pictures are stunning with the 4 element lens (made by minolta and as sharp as a zeiss or ross lens).
before this i bought a rolleiflex and a yashica both with problems----- the lenses had 60 years of dust in them, the focusing was alot stiffer due to the lack of servicing, the viewing screen was dull on both cameras and most important to remember is the technology of the lens is 60-70 years old!!! (now computer designed) the coatings for colour film was only a single coat and both cameras did not match up to todays standards in the colour prints or slides even when using fuji reala or velvia 50.
seagull cameras were around back then but have continued to manufacture them for nearly 50 years! i was very happy with my 1997 seagull and my new 109 is even better with build quality equal to the yashica/ minolta cameras.
from a professonial photographers opinion,(who uses bronica gs-1) buy one, take your time and use fuji 50 velvia, the results will be ace!!!!!
