The GR1 is a $400 shirt-pocket-sized point-and-shoot camera with a fast fixed
28mm lens. It offers significantly more control than a standard P&S camera at
substantially less price and weight than "snob P&S" cameras.
Great Things About This Camera
- All the mode and flash setting except T (Bulb) and self-timer remain engaged
after power off.
- The shutter is release priority, not focus priority; it will fire regardless
of the focus or aperture settings.
- If you want the control, you get aperture-priority autoexposure mode with +/-
2 f-stops of exposure compensation.
- SNAP Mode, which locks the focus at the hyperfocal distance. Great for street
photography.
- Fixed Focus Mode, which locks the focus at a user-selected distance.
Flash
The GR1 has the usual wimpy P&S flash. Its guide number is only 7 (with
ISO 100 film) due to the necessity of covering the field of view of the 28mm
lens. There is an unusual flash out of distance warning system that works
well.
In aperture priority with the flash ON, the flash goes into a slow synch.
setting, sort of like a night flash mode on other cameras. If the camera is set
for AUTO flash in aperture priority mode it maintains a shutter speed floor of
1/30 of a second or so.
I've gotten good results using a slave flash sold by Ritz Camera in the US for
about $20. It's about the size of a pack of cigarettes and comes with a
removable, ratcheting foot and velcro strap, so you can mount it almost anywhere
and in any position or just hand hold it. Powered by two AAA batteries, it fires
when the camera's flash goes off. I don't recall the Guide Number, probably about
6 or 7, but enough for the purpose intended. I usually place it on a bookshelf
about 6 to 6 1/2' up and angled at 45 degrees to knock down shadows on group
shots and boost the on-camera flash. Mounting on a tripod leg also works. Pentax
has also recently (1/98) introduced a similar mini slave flash called the
ExtraFlash with a GN of 10 with ISO 100 film.
Controls
Ergonomics are just about perfect. I carried the GR1 around Arizona on
horseback and on day hikes in a shirt pocket or a belt pack with no problem.
Shooting (pictures) one-handed from horseback was a good test. I'm still amazed
at the small size of the GR1. I carry it everywhere.
Aperture settings and the Program Mode are selected with a dial on top of the
camera. Settings can be made quickly with your thumb in half stops from f/2.8 to
f/22. The layout is clear, settings are click stopped, and they don't move off
their mark.
Exposure compensation can be set in half stops from +2 to -2 EV. It's simple
to use by turning a dial on top of the camera. The settings are visible all the
time and don't change when the camera is off. This is the only way to override
the DX'd ISO of the film. I usually expose print film at +1 EV as this gives the
pictures a bit more contrast and detail in the shadows. Also, labs can correct
for overexposed print film much easier, especially shots taken in fluorescent
lighting.
Nits
It is difficult to see the shutter speed readout in the viewfinder in bright
sunlight. However, since AF and exposure are locked when the shutter is pressed
down halfway, you can also turn the camera toward the shade or the ground to see
the readouts, then recompose and take the shot if the exposure is suitable, or
take another reading or set exposure compensation accordingly. You can also place
your left forefinger over the left edge of the viewfinder while continuing to
look through the it. This will shade the side and the shutter speed readout will
become clearly visible.
The passive autofocus system has difficulty with subjects that lack distinct
vertical lines. Here's a tip to get around this problem: if the AF fails to find
and lock on a vertical line, tilt the camera left or right at an angle (30-45
degrees). The AF will then lock onto a horizontal line, which the camera AF
systems perceives as vertical. Just make sure the AF locks onto the distance you
want. Works every time. Passive AF is still the best method for focusing on
distant objects.
Turning on the "red-eye reduction" mode requires pushing two button at once,
which is a bit inconvenient, but I rarely use this feature. The red-eye reduction
works as well as can be expected.
The On/Off switch is a little too easy to engage. The camera came on once
while packed inside a soft case inside a daypack, apparently when the pack was
moved. This hasn't happened since I bought a durable Tamrac belt case. The camera
will automatically power off after five minutes.
Manual Errors
Here is an error in the GR1 user manual on page 19. The manual indicates that
the focus symbols flash when the camera is unable to focus. This is incorrect.
The focus marks or brackets ([ ]) blink, not the symbols. Check the Popular
Photography test and you'll see confirmation of a spot meter option. Try a point
light source in a dark environment and you'll see the dramatic drop off in
sensitivity in the spot AF mode. I think the manual/brochure lost something in
the translation from Japanese. If you look at the diagram in the brochure (call
1-800-225-1899 if you don't have one) where the sensitivity is depicted in a
diagram, you'll also see that it has a spot option while they verbally say
center-weighted. I also find the instruction manual short on its description of
how the flash operates in aperture priority mode as compared to the flash in
program mode.
Make sure that a 28mm lens is right for you
A 28mm lens is the classic wide angle focal length. It is about as wide as you
can get without obvious distortion. This makes it good for capturing a whole room
from one corner, for showing an item in an landscape plus the background, for
street photography, and for environmental portraits (subject + environment). It
is not a good focal length for head-and-shoulders portraiture.
Here's how Popular Photography rated the lens:
| f/number
|
CENTER
|
EDGE
|
| 2.8 |
Very Good |
Very Good |
| 4 |
Excellent |
Very Good |
| 5.6 |
Outstanding |
Very Good - Plus |
| 8 |
Outstanding |
Excellent |
| 11 |
Outstanding |
Excellent |
| 16 |
Very Good - Plus |
Very Good |
| 22 |
Good - Plus |
Good |
Using a Closeup Lens
I experimented with using closeup lenses (diopters) with the GR1. The GR1
doesn't have filter threads, but it is possible to use diopters by locking the AF
in Macro mode by holding down the shutter release half way and holding a large
diopter (I use a 58mm because that's what I have) in front of the lens before
releasing the shutter, preferably with the self-timer engaged and using a tripod.
You must focus first or the AF will be fooled by the extra lens. The results
using Hoya single element diopters were acceptable, but when I tried using a
Canon 250D double element lens the results were disastrous - all the images were
out of focus. I suspect the greater thickness of the Canon glass caused the lens
to focus at the default range of 6.5 feet.
Carrying Case
Rather than buy the Ricoh carrying case for the GR1, I got a Tamrac belt case
("Mini Traveler") for about $10. I settled on the Tamrac because it seemed to
allow quick access to the camera with fairly good protection and a velcro closure
rather than a zipper; zippers are harder to open, especially in cold weather if
you're wearing gloves. The outside measurements are 5 1/4" x 3 1/2" by 1 3/4".
The case fits on your belt with the camera in a vertical position. The case is
slightly larger than the camera so I glued a 3/4" by 1/2" x 5" piece of open cell
foam down the inside to add a bit more cushioning. Works great. Tamrac also makes
a small neoprene case under the NEO's label. They are very nice and a good choice
if you want neoprene rather than a hard nylon case. Lowe makes a case identical
to the Tamrac, except that it has an extra inside watertight 'pocket' with a
string tie on top. Okay for really bad conditions, but overkill for me.
Yashica T4 Super vs. GR1
I own a Yashica T4 Super (weatherproof) and still use it in situations where I
wouldn't take the GR1, such as canoeing. The T4 lens is very sharp and maybe -
maybe - as good as the GR1 for snap shooting.
| Specification
|
T4 Super (aka T5)
|
GR1
|
| Lens |
35mm
Zeiss *T* f/3.5
|
28mm
Ricoh GR f/2.8
|
| Lens Material |
Glass -? |
Glass |
| Lens Elements |
4, 3 groups |
7, 4 groups |
| Shutter Speeds - in Program |
1s-1/700 |
2s-1/500 |
| Weight Without Battery |
7.5 oz |
6.1 oz |
| Shirt Pocket Test |
Barely fits |
Room to spare |
| Weatherproof |
Yes |
No |
| Ergonomics |
Good |
Outstanding |
| Exposure Compensation |
No |
Yes (+/-2 EV) |
| Shutter Speeds - in
Aperture Priority
|
N/A
N/A
N/A
|
from f/2.8-f/8 2-1/250
f/8 2-1/325
f/16 2-1/500
|
| Spot Meter |
No |
Yes (exact coverage area unknown) |
| Metering Quality |
Excellent |
Excellent |
| Hyperfocal Mode |
No |
Yes (in SNAP at f/13) |
| Slow Synch Flash |
Yes |
Yes |
| "Bulb" Setting |
No |
Yes |
| Battery Type |
One CR123A 3V
Lithium
|
One CR2 3V
Lithium
|
| Battery Life Claim (50 % flash use) |
480 shots |
300 shots |
| Auto Power Off |
No |
Yes - after
five minutes
|
| Body |
Plastic |
Metal (die-cast magnesium alloy) |
| General Size and Feel |
Very Good |
Excellent |
| Manual Focusing |
No |
No |
| Manual Metering |
No |
No |
| Shutter Priority |
No |
No |
| Aperture Priority |
No |
Yes |
| Program Mode |
Yes |
Yes |
| Film Loading |
Winds to first frame |
Prewinds to last frame |
| DX Settings |
50-3200 |
25-3200 |
| Manual DX Setting |
No |
No |
| Flash Power |
Good |
Adequate |
| Flash Guide Number (ISO 100) |
9 |
7 |
| Flash Range (ISO 100) |
.35m - 3m (1.1 - 9.5ft.) |
.35m - 2.5m (1.1 - 8.2 ft.) |
| Flash Out of Range
Warning
|
No |
Yes |
| Red Eye Reduction |
Yes |
Yes |
| Focus Type |
Active |
Passive |
| Focus Zones |
160 |
2,925 |
| Wide Beam Focus |
Yes |
Yes |
| "Shutter Lag" |
Yes |
No |
| Spot Focus |
No |
Yes |
| Spot Metering |
No |
Yes |
| Low Light Focus Assist Beam |
No |
Yes |
| Low Light Viewfinder Illumination |
No |
Yes |
| Unable to Focus Warning |
Yes |
Yes |
| Focus Lock |
Yes |
Yes |
| Automatic Backlight
Compensation
|
Yes |
Yes |
| Auto Parallax Correction |
No |
Yes (two sets) |
| Self Timer |
Yes |
Yes |
| Infinity Lock |
Yes |
Yes |
| Viewfinder |
Bright |
Bright |
| 2nd Viewfinder |
Yes (waist level type) |
No |
| Viewfinder LCD |
Good |
Poor in bright light |
| Good in dim light |
| Filter Threads |
No |
No |
Other Reviews/Info
An extensive review of the GR1 can be found in the January, 1997, issue of
Popular Photography magazine (page 20). Other reviews are available
in Amateur Photographer, 30 November 1996: 3 page review;
Amateur Photographer, February 8, 1997: Compact Camera of the Year;
Buying Cameras, short review.
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