A Site for Photographers by Photographers

Community > Forums > Film and Processing > Color negative > Types of film and processing

Featured Equipment Deals

Creatively Using Selective Focus in Photography and Photoshop Read More

Creatively Using Selective Focus in Photography and Photoshop

Harold Davis, photographer, author, and print master, shares with you how to use selective focus as a creative tool, including in-camera and in Photoshop.

Latest Equipment Articles

Lensbaby Spark Review Read More

Lensbaby Spark Review

This inexpensive gadget does indeed spark your creativity. Read on to see how.

Latest Learning Articles

26 Creative Photos of Water Drops Read More

26 Creative Photos of Water Drops

These absolutely amazing macro photographs feature a tiny elemental thing that can hold a lot of mystery. Take a moment to enjoy these photographs of water drops.


Types of film and processing

Tauseef Asri , Jan 01, 2004; 07:32 a.m.

Hello

I am quite new to photography so I apologise if this sounds like a stupid question but I cant find any info on these questions on the net. Could anyone explain the basics in the different types of films and processing? eg: What is the difference between Fujichrome and Fuji Colour Print? Why are some of these films listed as 36 exp and also as a 120 roll? What is E6 and C41 processing? I shoot mainly indoor bodybuilding competitions and have so far only used 400 and 800 Fuji Superia, had good results but when enlarged I could do with a bit sharper image any suggestions on a better film?

Regards T.

Responses


    1   |   2     Next    Last

Sandro Fouche , Jan 01, 2004; 09:15 a.m.

Let's see.

Most (all?) films with the term "chrome" in the name are slide film.

36exp almost always refers to 135 (ie 35mm) film. 120 film is a different sized film (6cm wide) that works in medium format cameras.

E6 processing is for slides.

C41 is the name for standard color processing, but you will find a few B&W films that use this process.

As far as which film to use, there are lots of variables in getting sharp shots, and you have not given us enough information to really help you. How large an enlargement are you after? What exposure settings do you normally use? With tripod or without? (I'm intentionally leaving out which lens you used, but knowing wouldn't hurt).

Considering you're new to photography, I'd look at your technique as opposed to worrying too much about film or equipment. Although I wouldn't necessarily shoot Superia, you can get acceptably sharp 8x10's out of it. The sharpest hand-held photos I've seen are actaully from marksmen; they are really practiced at keeping their hand steady. At least one I know commonly hand-holds a full stop or two below what I can reliably accomplish.

-Sandro

James Dainis , Jan 01, 2004; 11:50 a.m.

From Tauseef's thread on the Canon EOS forum:

"I'm fairly new to photography and am looking for a decent zoom lens to go with my EOS 33. I did have a 75-300 f4-f5.6 USM and took some good photos several of which are going to be published, but I want the pics to be even sharper with better colour saturation. I will mainly be taking indoor photos of bodybuilding competitions and evening weddings."

He is thinking of getting a 70-200L f2.8 or f4.0. My response was to get a Canon 50mm f1.8 to see what a truly sharp lens can do and to use Fuji NPH 400 film.

Canon EOS Rules , Jan 01, 2004; 12:16 p.m.

You might want to try Fujicolor Portrait NPH, Fujifilm's pro 400-speed film. VERY accurate color & VERY sharp. It's probably the film you've been looking for!

Les Sarile , Jan 01, 2004; 03:47 p.m.

I shot some Kodak Portra 160VC and 400UC at the Mr. & Ms. Olympia 2003 where there was a range of skin colors, oil applied on their body, and various lighting temperatures and just started getting prints back from it and am very pleased with the results if you care to look.
If you are considering the 70-200 f2.8 non-IS L (which is what I used) or the f4 version, I would suggest if the weight and cost of the f2.8 is too much then go for the f4 but also get the 550EX flash. This will allow you to use lower ISO film and higher shutter speeds which I suspect may be the cause of your lack of sharpness.
Sorry I am not familiar with AF speed of the F4 lens. The EOS 3 AF, eye control, f2.8 lens and the 550EX ETTL made this shoot too easy. In this venue, I am sure that a good zoom lens will serve you better then primes.

Tauseef Asri , Jan 03, 2004; 05:51 a.m.

Thanks for all the responses and the breakdown Sandro. As james said I am going to purchase the 70-200 f.8 NON IS and will be shooting mainly handheld indoors. Heres a sample image I shot using a 75-300 f4-f5.6 USM.

Tauseef Asri , Jan 03, 2004; 06:27 a.m.

try again.


British GP

Winfried Buechsenschuetz , Jan 03, 2004; 12:53 p.m.

Some films are available in standard 35mm format for 36 exposures, and also in 120 format which sometimes also is referred to as 'rollfilm' and used in medium format cameras such as the Hasselblad.

Medium format film today is mainly used by professionals, so some types of films mainly designed for the amateur market are NOT available in 120 format, and some 120 films designed for professional applications are not available in 35mm format.

James Dainis , Jan 03, 2004; 04:34 p.m.

Tauseef,
Very nice photo. My suggestion was to get a Canon 50mm F1.8 lens in addition to the zoom lens that you would need. The tack sharp 50mm would be a good lens with which to compare the sharpness of other lenses.

Tauseef Asri , Jan 04, 2004; 04:20 a.m.

James - I think I will look to get the 50mm f1.8 once I've got the zoom as I will use it more for this type of work. I hear what you are saying about the sharpness but having spoken to people who do the same type of shots they also use the 70-200L for close ups too and right now I need the zoom. Thanks for the comment on the pic, like I said it was my first time out with the camera, shame I didnt get any constructive feedback from the critique forum.


    1   |   2     Next    Last

Back to top

Notify me of Responses