Between Rome and Florence you have probably the densest concentration of
cultural and lifestyle treasures in the world. The regions separating these cites
are Umbria and Toscana. If I were a serious travel writer, I'd give you deep
sections on all of the three-star towns. The light frescoes of the cathedral of
St. Francis in Assisi, my favorite in all of Italy. The medieval atmosphere of
the Tuscan hill towns like San Gimignano. The art treasures of Siena, Florence's
major rival. But I'm not a serious travel writer so all you get are two little
photo exhibits.
San Galgano
Galgano was a knight born to rich parents in 1148 but he renounced the
material world and also the arts of war. He attempted to break his sword against
a rock, but instead the sword was swallowed by the stone, a sign that God
approved of his project. He died a hermit in 1181 and was declared a saint in
1185.
A Cistercian abbey was built near the site of Galgano's hermitage in 1218 in
Gothic style, reflecting the French origins of the monks. The abbey's church now
lies in ruins in the magnificent Tuscan landscape.
Parco dei Mostri
Once the backyard of the Villa Orsini,
this 16th-century sculpture garden was built by the same sculptors who worked on
St. Peter's. Subtlety is not wasted on these monstrosities.
[Practical note: the park is about 90 minutes north of Rome, near the town of
Bomarzo, which has almost nothing to recommend it. I advise that you bring a
picnic from Rome because I remember a particularly bad and expensive restaurant
in Bomarzo. I also vividly remember being chased around the park by an old
caretaker, upset that I was using a tripod. The Cadogan guide notes that the
privately-owned park is run like an "Alabama roadside attraction, complete with
tame deer for your children to pet, an albino peacock, miniature goats, and
plenty of souvenirs. ... It may be the only important monument of the 16th
century that neither the goverment nor anyone else is interested in
preserving."]
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