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Brazos Bend State Park, Tx

by Jim Bridges, 1998


Brazos Bend State Park is a nature and wildlife area I’ve photographed for the past six years. There are three different environments in the park, and you can hike from a grassland prairie, to swampland, to hardwood forest in less than an hour, or you can spend several hours in just one of these areas. The photographic subjects are endless!

The park is located about thirty miles southwest of Houston, Texas. It covers approximately forty nine hundred acres, and has roughly twenty-two miles of hiking trails that wind around the parks several small lakes, in grassland prairies, and in the hardwood forest.

The spring and fall is when the park gets most of its weekend daytime visitors, and campers. I prefer to photograph in early morning hours, especially on weekends, because the wading birds and animals are feeding, and seem to be more approachable than in the late afternoon hours. But the late afternoon can also be just as rewarding. Actually, the best time to do wildlife photography is during weekdays. Unless you are camping overnight, the park opens at seven a.m. Friday through Sunday, and opens at eight a.m. Monday through Thursdays. The park entrance fee is three dollars per person.

Although all of the trails are flat, very well maintained, and easy to hike, in the summer months carry drinking water with you. I usually carry two twenty-ounce bottles of water for a five hour hike. The heat and humidity even in the mornings will make you sweat like you are in a sauna here in southeast Texas. A sweat towel is a very good idea. I freeze a twenty-ounce plastic coke bottle of water the night before, and wrap it in my little towel when I start out in the morning, and in a few hours I can have a drink of ice water, and a cool towel to wipe the sweat. It’s very refreshing!

The park has several poisonous snakes. Copperhead, cottonmouth water moccasin, coral snake, and rattlesnakes. I can say that in the fifteen years I’ve been going to the park, as an angler, and a photographer, I’ve only seen one copperhead and five cottonmouth snakes, and each time I saw the snakes in time and was in no danger. I know poisonous snakes are in this area, and I’m always looking for them, no matter where in the park I’m hiking. When I get out of my car, I’m looking for poisonous snakes!

If the weather is not in the thirties or forties, it is a good idea to have some kind of insect repellent. We have mild winters in this area, and mosquitoes are with us most of the year. Late December through the first of February you are fairly safe from them, but a week of mild weather will have them out looking for blood. I spray from my knees to my boot tops on every trip from mid February to the first freeze, and usually carry the spray can with me in the summer months. There are chiggers (red bugs) are on every trail! In the spring and summer you can expect mosquitoes, deerflies, and biting gnats. I use Deep Woods Off spray, but use whatever works for you.

The only times the park has been closed to visitors, is when the Brazos River floods and backs up Big Creek into the park, and for the annual white-tailed deer hunt in the first two weeks of December. This hunt can go extra weeks if the parks management considers it necessary as they did in 1998. During the deer hunt the park will open for visitors on Fridays after two p.m., and close again Sunday night. If there has been flooding in the Houston area it would be a good idea to call the park and make sure that they are open.

I use 35mm SLR equipment with lenses ranging from 24mm to 300mm.

All of the trails at Brazos Bend State Park that I discuss are identified on the map you will receive when you enter the park.

The Prairie Trail:

It is across the road from the 40-Acre Lake parking lot. The trail leads to a wooden observation platform. This area is excellent for wildflowers from early March to late November. The Prairie Trail is one of my favorite locations in the spring and summer to photograph closeups of the grasses, dayflower, goldenrod, passionflower, spider lily, and dewberry vines. Occasionally you can see white-tailed deer in the area in the early mornings, and late afternoon. It’s also great for close up photographs of dew covered spider webs on summer mornings before the wind begins blowing.

Hoots Hollow Trail:

It is located on the northwestern side of 40-Acre Lake Trail. It will be on the left as you get to where you can see the beginning of 40-Acre Lake on the right. This is a nice quiet footpath with huge old oak trees covered with Spanish moss along the entire footpath. The marshlands of Pilant Lake are on the right as you enter the trail. There is a good chance that you will see white-tailed deer, feral hogs, great horned owls, and barred owls in this area. This is also a good area to photograph butterflies at rest in the mornings during the summer months.

40-Acre Lake Trail:

This is one of the best trails for photographing the wading birds, and the American alligator. It is also one of the busiest and most used trails in the park. Photography is best early in the morning when the park first opens, or on weekdays, Monday through Thursday. From the beginning of the trail (when you can see the lake on the right) to the observation tower is exceptional for wading bird photography on both sides of the trail. You will have Pilant Lake on the left side of the trail, and 40-Acre Lake on the right side. The most common birds are white ibis, great blue and little blue heron, yellow-crowned and black-crowned night herons, snowy and great egret, american bittern, blue wing and green wing teal, anhinga, black-bellied whistling ducks, common coots, and purple gallinule.

In the late spring and early summer this trail is good for shooting white water lilies blossom in 40-Acre Lake. Some can come up as close three to four feet from the shore. Dragonflies frequently land on them, and can make great subjects to shoot.

The observation tower is a great platform for shooting sunrise, and sunsets. It also gives you a great view of Pilant Lake, which is more of a marsh than an open water lake. At the observation tower take the trail to the right, heading south, and cross the small wooden bridge, and continue along the trail by the lake. On your left will be Pilant Slough, and there can be wading birds feeding in this area as well. Continuing on the trail will take you back into the forest and the winding trail to 40-Acre Lake parking lot, and picnic area. The area close to the fishing pier can be very good for wading birds, and alligator photographs in the early morning.

Trail from the Observation Tower to Elm Lake:

Depending on the water level of the lake and slough, this half-mile walk between the observation tower and Elm Lake can be one of the most productive areas for wading bird photography. This area is one of my favorite locations in the park to photograph wading birds when the water level is low in the summer months. I start at 40-Acre Lake Trail (the north part of the lake), and walk straight to Elm Lake. This is also one of the busy trails in the park. Bicyclist and large groups of visitors use this trail regularly, and it can be a high traffic area, but in the early hours before the crowd gets up and out, before nine a.m., you can do some outstanding wading bird photography on this trail.

Elm Lake Loop Trail:

It is very much like 40-Acre lake, just a little larger loop. There can be wading bird, white-tailed deer, and alligator photography in this area too. Along with 40-acre lake trail it is one of the most visitor active trails at the park. There is a lot of bicycle, and pedestrian traffic on weekends after about nine a.m. When I do photograph around Elm Lake, I usually remain on the western side of the lake at sunrise and the eastern side at sunset. Tuesday through Thursday is the best days to do any serious wildlife shooting on this trail, and the south side of the lake is usually the quietest, because there is a large picnic area on the north side of the lake.

Horseshoe Lake Loop Trail:

This is a very scenic hike in the hardwood forest that goes around Old Horseshoe Lake. Spanish moss is draped on every old oak, and there are some very large old oaks in the part of the park. During the early spring, some years as early as the second week in February, the red buckeye plants will be blooming. Some of the spring and summer wildflowers in this area are Turk’s Cap, passionflower, leather flower, and a wide variety of sunflowers.

I have photographed white-tailed deer, feral hogs, marsh rabbits, and there are squirrels, opossum, and raccoons in this area. I have been lucky enough to get an occasional glimpse of grey fox and bobcat in the early morning, but these are extraordinary sightings in any section of the park, but they are there.

There is a trail that goes north to Big Creek from the northwest end of this trail. In the fall this is one of the best areas to see white-tailed deer and feral hogs. This area is very good for photographing fall colors in November through December.

Pilant Slough Trail:

This trail winds through the forest from the Visitor Center to the south side of Elm Lake. It’s a very scenic hike that has forest scenery with a swamp type atmosphere.

Creekfield Lake Trail:

Actually two trails. One is a paved loop that goes around the north end of Creekfield Lake, and the other is a footpath that winds around the south end of the little lake. The morning and early evening can be good for photographing wading birds feeding in the shallow lake area.

Hale Lake Loop Trail:

Hale Lake is the largest of the oxbow lakes at the park. This trail also goes to the interior of the horseshoe lake. This is one of my favorite areas for fall color photography.

Red Buckeye - Whiteoak - Bluestem Trails:

This is a network of trails and footpaths in the bottomland forest section of the park near the Brazos River. The fall colors can be outstanding in the area as well. There will not be many visitors that go on these trails, if you are seeking a quiet peaceful walk, and beautiful river bottomland forest scenery, this is the area to explore. These trails are my favorite places to photograph forest scenery, and mammals. There are white-tailed deer and feral hogs in this section of the park twelve months of the year. The footpaths of Red Buckeye trail are my favorite part of the entire park. The half-mile loop has several places you can get good views of Big Creek before it ends at the Brazos River. It also has a healthy population of Golden Orb Web Spider’s along these footpaths. They are a very large spider and I've seen them feeding on an unlucky anole that has been caught in their webs.


Article created 1998

Readers' Comments


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T. David Griffith , March 12, 2000; 02:50 P.M.

I whole heartedly concur with Jeff that Brazos Bend is the crown jewel of the Texas State Parks. After 9 years, my wife and I finally got there last December, armed with an 300mm AF-S mounted on an Nikon F5. We had canceled an afternoon trip from Galveston down to Freeport, but got to Brazos Bend after 3pm. The park rangers were excellent in helping us go where we could get the most bang for the buck. (It helped when they saw the heavy artillery along with our Gold Pass.) They sent us to the observation tower overlooking the Fourty Acre Lake. We were not dissappointed when a 12+ foot alligator crawled out of the swamp. In addition, there were plenty of egrets, and in the distance a bald eagle! And finally, the sunset was unbelivable with numerous black birds perched on tree limbs with an almost magenta background.

Jonathan Watmough , July 21, 2000; 04:19 P.M.

The commentary above is right on ! I was there a couple of weeks ago and saw a couple of gators, one pretty close, and various wading birds. There were many dragonflies and big big spiders webs can be seen lining the trail to the horseshoe lakes. I am going back again, but with a tripod, a wide lens and a macro in addition to my usual 80-200 f4.

Roberto Lins , September 27, 2000; 01:33 A.M.

I'd like just to add that I have shots from brazos bend gators that would fit in my 50mm! It's amazing how close you can get. Besides the large amount of birds and the alligators, I've also seen three white tailed deer. Sunset can can provide you some neat photo ops, but the place is also nice during sunrise.

P.S: Sorry Jonathan, I tried to load the picture and my post changed place...


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