R6.2 flash help

You can use the SF20, but it is best for fill flash and closer sujbects. It does not offer bounce capability. A good, all around unit for keeping things simple and small. If you go that route, I suggest the SFILL diffuser from Lutz.

However, if you are going to do any serious flash work you should look into one of the Metz units.

For TTL you will need a Metz dedicated module along with whatever Metz flash unit you select. The module for the R6.2 is SCA 3502.

The set up I pictured here will deliver professional level on-camera lighting. In addition to the flash and SCA 3502 and a Metz 54MZ-3 flash, it uses the off camera extention cord SCA 3008A m, which allows you to use a flip bracket that keeps the flash unit centered above the lens in either the horizonal or vertical position. The white thing on the end of the flash is a diffuser from StoFen that softens and wraps the light around a subject.

This is about as sophsticated and automatic as you can get without getting really big with a Quantum type strobe unit. The 54MZ-3 may be to large for your need, but Metz makes other smaller (but less powerful) units. Hope this helps.

Sorry, I forgot to resize before sending. Here it is.

Mike, Since this is your first jump in flash, why don't you get something a little less pricey, like a Vivitar 283. (about $70.--) It's been around forever, totally reliable, and a system built around it, if you want it. Happy Snaps,

The SF-20 will not work as a TTL flash on the R6.2. I like my SF-20s but I would never pay that much for just a low powered flash with three automatic ranges. There are much cheaper flashes that will give better performance.

There's only two reasons for a flash other than a Vivitar 283. Either you want an itty bitty thing that fits in your pocket, and you're not worried about lack of output, or you need a heavy duty powerful unit with seperate battery pack. And the 283 will take an external pack.

As John points out the SF20 is not TTL-capable with the R6.2 (one of the few times when Leica has not provided as much or better backward compatibility compared to the Japanese brands). My vote for an R6.2 flash would be any SCA-300 type Metz flash of which there are tons on the market. If you want a new one, get the 32Z2 as there is no dedication for a motorized zoom with the 6.2 anyway. A bonus, the 32Z2 can take a 3000-series module so if you ever get an M6TTL or M7 or R8/9 you can just buy a new module. SCA-3000 and 3002 series flashes all take 300-series modules but not the reverse.

There's only two reasons for a flash other than a Vivitar 283.

I'll add a third reason - if you want better build quality and even better reliability, and are sick of the weak foot breaking off all the time. I use a set of Metz 32 Z-1's.

I'd vote for the Metz 32Z2. I have had a Metz 32CT7 with SCA 351 adapter for years. It's been reliable and fully functional with my R6 and R7.

Thanks for all the advice. I have a few more questions.

It looks like the SF-20 isn't the best, too bad since its so small. Is the Vivitar 283 fully compatable, auto, TTL etc? What about the Metz 32Z1 or 2 with SCA adapter?

Like I said I'm new to using a flash and want one that is fully compatable, small, and most importantly simple to use for indoor photography.

Mike

Wow, that is one heck of a rig Marc. No winder? ;-)

Anyhow, I just went through this circus myself. I settled on the Metz 32-Z2 and the SCA 351 adapter for my 6.2. I can also use the Metz on my M6TTL, with the 3502 adapter. The Metz is a fairly compact unit that puts out a useable amount of light. The biggest reason why I didn't buy the SF-20 is that you can't swivel the head to do bounce flash. On the other hand the SF-20 is a small unit that easily fits in a corner of your bag. Maybe I'll grab a cheap used one some day.

feli

Feli, weddings...got to have some reach with the light. I have other modules for that flash to use all of it's features on things like a D1-X.

Thanks for all the advice. It looks like its the Metz 32z2 with sca 351 adapter if I want TTL and the vivitar 283 if I don't need TTL.

Does TTL offer much of an advantage over the 283 in auto mode?

Mike

I have the same kit as Marc, but I use the Vivitar 285. It has the same power (give or take) but is auto and non-TTL and works just as well, but the flash is only $60 or so. The TTL mode is nice, but certainly not essential and unless you are a frequent user then I am not sure it is worth it. I actually do use the SF20 on the camera too even though it is not TTL (with Lutz Konerman's SFILL) and it works well too, but is clearly not as powerful or as versatile.

The R6/R6.2 has an incredibly good TTL system with a Metz flash. You can use the exposure compensation for variable TTL fill flash. You meter with no exposure compensation to set your aperture and shutter speed for ambient light, then you adjust the exposure compensation for underexposure by 1/3 stop increments to get just as much fill as you want. You can work at any shutter speed up to 1/100 (the X on the shutter speed dial). You set all of the speeds from 1 sec to 1/60 sec on the regular part of the speed dial and for full infomation TTL you use the X setting. It takes a bit of work but the results are controlled and just perfect. The TTL flash used straight is so accruate you will be amazed.

With the SCA TTL system, all of the viewfinder TTL displays light up too. I would not consider getting anything but a TTL Metz flash. You can probably pick up a very good used unit and get a Leica adapter for cheap. If you do not have the R6.2 instruction booklet, I think Leica will still give you one for free. Contact their repair/support email through their web site www.leica-camera.com.