Mamiya C330 with black bar on the bottom of some frames

How does the negative look like? This sounds that the negative might have been misaligned during printing process and the black bar is the empty space between frames (lab fault).

I was worried about that, but I wanted to blame it on the camera or myself first -- this was my first roll of 120 film in a new camera. The negatives have the bar too -- it isn't just on the prints (and it isn't every print). Is it possible that the hand crank or my cranking skills could have something to do with the defect?

Afton

Can you post an example?

I'm wondering if the back shutter was getting in the way-- the thing that shields the film when you're changing lenses. Am I out to lunch?

Let me retract that-- back shutter comes up from below, so it would affect the top of the image field first.

The Mamiya TLRs have in-the-lens diaphragm shutters so that would not cause a black bar. A scan of the negs would be useful. If the black bar has a soft edge then it's probably the baffle (that;s the thing that swings up when you unlock the lens to change it) that has got in the way - have a look at the lock/unlock knob on the side. Is it in the 'lock' position?

Haven't looked at the baffle, but the lens Lock is in the lock position. Is it possible that I just didn't crank all the way? And, as I said, the bar isn't on every frame, and it isn't the same size. (Noticeable on 4 out of 12.) The key, I think, is that the entire image is shifted up -- I was doing timed exposure shots on a tripod, so there's no question that the image shift is real (camera didn't move, as I was using a cable release).

If you did not crank all the way, you should see a frame overlap or frames very close to each other. However, the full 6x6 frame should be still exposed. Also, the shutter locks and won't release until you wind enough film (the crank should come to hard stop when the film is successfully wound).

As for the baffle, it's spring loaded and should not stay in intermediate position. Also, the shutter locks if the baffle is up or midway. At least how it works on my C330s, there may be fewer interlocks on plain vanilla C330.

It would help a lot if you could post an example of the problem, it seems to me that we are all guessing here.

Here are some rough and ready scans -- adjacent frames, one with the bar, one without, and the camera didn't move between shots (locked down on a tripod).

Here's the adjacent frame.

Is this a scan of the negative or of the prints? If it's the scan of the prints, how do they compare to what's actually on the negative?

Scans of the prints, same as the negatives.

I just took the back off and checked the lens to see if there was any movement or wiggle when the camera was tipped forward or the bellows was extended, and the housing appeared to be as tight as could be (and the lens Lock is and was in the lock position, too).

I don't know if this is relevant, but I noticed, while I was looking at the negatives, that the unexposed space between frames wasn't the same height across the roll.

Well, if the negatives are really matching the prints, then it's a pretty strange problem. Notice, that the second frame has less exposed area than the first frame (height-wise) and the cutoffs are very sharp (as if the film was masked).If the camera was fixed on tripod with no movement between exposures, there's no reason (that I can think of) for the second frame to be cut off at the top. The uneven spacing between frames is normal for C330 and as long as you do not get overlaps, it's not a concern.

Maybe the film wasn't lined up with the Start mark properly?

I don't think that's the problem. The MF film is a continuous strip of film and if you misalign the start mark, either the first or the last frame is affected but not the frames in the middle. There's not much more I can think of without seeing the scans of the negatives (do you have a 120/220 capable scanner?).

The top of the second image is cut off, and since this was on a tripod and supposedly not moved between shots, there is an internal light block coming into play from the bottom of the inner chamber. I don't have my C3 anymore, but if I recall, the light stop flips up to block the lens opening when you change lenses. Could this be coming up partially somehow when you wind the film? Have you tried going through the whole process with the back open or even off to see what might be happening?

No, I'll try that next.

Meant the top of the first image is cut off. Dave Sims is right though, that could explain cutting off the top of the image, but not the bottom bar that is exposed. That would be on the top of the inner chamber.

Light stop is on the bottom of the lower chamber; there isn't anything on the top of the lower chamber that moves (solid on the top and the sides). Any way that it could have something to do with the pressure plate?

The picture is exposed upside down. What you see on the top in the viewfinder is actually at the bottom of the mirror. So the baffle could possibly obstruct the top of the picture, but I'm not sure that it's close enough to create a sharp cutoff.

I believe this has to be a problem with the film transport. The reason is that the top of the picture is cut off. If something was blocked, then there is no reason why the top is cut off. There would be a black bar at the bottom, but the image on the film would still be in the correct position. Is the black bar actually discernible (on the film) from the unexposed areas between the negatives?

I have some questions. One is that unexposed negative films are clear. Which means that the film between frames should be clear and should reproduce as black when converted during a scan of the film. Unexposed slide films are black. Which means that the film between frames should reproduce as black during a scan of the tilm. So, how come it appears that the area outlying your image area is showing as a light grey? I ask because what should be represented as black is showing up as a very light grey and I thought that you were scanning the actual film.

I suspect that one of two things are going on here.

One is that whoever printed your film didn't have it properly registered when they made the prints. With the near total reliance on automated printing machines by most developers today that's not too surprizing. One minor fault with Mamiya TLR cameras is that the spacing between frames will vary by a small amount. Because when these cameras were made most printing was done by hand using an actual enlarger, Mamiya wasn't very concerned about exact frame spacing because the printer would adjust the position in the film carrier to center the image. Now developers are using automated machines that feed the film by an exact amount between each frame. So, if they camera doesn't match that spacing exactly, the error can stack up until you see a print like this.

The second issue is that the camera may not be feeding the film within Mamiya's specification and your getting some overlapping frames. It can happen. These are old cameras and there may be enough wear on one of the gears that it's occasionally "skipping" a tooth and not advancing the film consistently.

What you need to do is to examing your film for it's entire length. If it's been cut, lay it out on a table and place each section end to end with the matching sections. Then you'll be able to see if you have some frames that are overlapping. If you find some overlapping frames, your camera will need servicing. If you find that each frame has a minimum of 1/16 inch between frames, then the problem lies with whoever did your printing. What you will have to do is ask them to visually confrim that each frame is properly centered before making each print. Even though they are using automated printing machines I am sure that there will be some means of over-riding the film position for each print, probably a simple dial that they have to rotate forward or back while watching a monitor.

As for the black bar, it's much too sharply defined for the darkslide to be a cause. This plate is hinged near the film gate and swings up from the bottom. Which means that if it were not completely down it would leave a very fuzzy black bar at the TOP of your image, remember the image that is projected on the film is upside down and reversed.

Thanks Scott -- that all makes sense.

I had a C330f a number of years ago. As mentioned above, frame spacing in Mamiya TLR's is not precise (like a Hasselblad for example) at the best of times. Overlapping frames is a common problem. My guess is the black sky above the Arch de Triumph is covering the bottom of the frame above it. The only remedy is to have the camera repaired. I don't recall what it cost me but it wasn't all that much.

In addition to the above, double check that the film pressure plate is correctly set to 120 and not 220 (that'll screw up your frame spacing for sure). If I recall, you push down and rotate it 180 degrees. And finally, the thickness of the take-up spool can cause overlapping problems. Look at the one onto which you wound the film during your shoot. If it's an oddball then you can get overlap as well. If none of this works for you then it needs servicing which is well worth it in my opinion. TLR's are great MF cameras and I shot some incredibly sharp images with mine. Good luck.

I think this is overlapping frames, as well. Was the film snug on the take-up spool? Was the take-up spool securely securely seated? I'd check these things.

My first roll of 120 -- I think it was snug, but I'll have a better idea the second time around.

Might be worthwhile to practice with a cheap roll of 120 film. I did this in the past when I first got a C330 and when I got a Hasselblad 501CM. It can be a little bit tricky at first. A practice roll will allow you to advance the film and watch to be sure everything is working as it should.

I note that the white band is in the same place as the car headlights in the second photograph. Was there a significant difference in the exposure time between the two? Is it possible that the white band is a merging of the car lights over a long exposure? Were all the photos of the same scene taken on a tripod? Were you bracketing your exposures? It's possible that there is nothing wrong with the camera!

It's light from the passing traffic. No problem with your camera