Rookie in search for some answers: budget, system and quality

There's nothing wrong with going the cheaper way. I bought a Yashica 124-G when I was in high school and it was a great experience. I wore it out after 2 years though, and after using Hasselblad, Zeiss lenses, the difference was substantial. But I still took a lot of great images with the 124G.

You should be able to get a decent Hasselblad for $1k. One advantage with the Hasselblad is that it is so easy to find more components and lenses. A Rolleiflex would be a great choice as well. But they can be expensive and you get one lens. I really like using a TLR. You are right that most of the options are pretty high quality. The Japanese cameras are nice, but they look a lot different optically than the German lenses. I would buy the best camera you can afford, and make sure you choose a system with easy to find parts that are affordable as well. You may find a basic kit for not much money, but when you go to buy a lens or prism finder (if you want one), it should also be affordable.

I use a Yashicamat 124G. I like it. One of the interesting things about TLRs is that no one bothers you. My guess is that the camera looks so unimportant that no one cares. I think I read something once about a guy named Solomon (French?) who used 35mm for that reason. My Yashicamat was made in or around 1971, and it's still going strong.

I also like and use Pentax 645. Interesting thing there has been using the 645 lenses with small format Pentax cameras through an adapter ring.

I have not used any of the expensive European cameras, but they have a strong following, probably for good reason. As long as your camera works, I doubt there would be any problem with it.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with the Pentax 67 for the lenses and the sturdiness. I stumbled upon the 645 at a local shop. It's a good camera, but I think I would have liked the 67 for the money more. Just leaning that way, don't know why. J.

After many cameras and formats (including two Bronicas) I now find I use my digital for most shots. But if I need better quality, I use my Mamiya RB67 Pro SD. This camera has never broken down (unlike both Bronicas it replaced). With the 6x8 back I have 50% more film than the Bronica 6x6. Actually double when you are cropping the 6x6 for a rectangle print. No electronics to crap out or learn to use. If you are backpacking, it can get heavy though so sometimes it stays home :-(

Besides a better image, when using the RB67 I get a real satisfying and enjoyable picture taking experience!

Ultimately what you choose should reflect the type of shooting you intend to do.

Not a pro - Bob

This is a no-brainer for the most part. If you buy a decent Rolleiflex E-2 model with removable hood or later F model in either 3.5 or 2.8, you can drop in an extra-bright aftermarket fresnel viewing screen to make the image 7x to 10X brighter. Then shoot with it for six months and see if you really like using Medium Format. You can always sell a Rollei for what you paid for it, even if you spend $125 to upgrade the screen with a drop-in unit. Then you can either pocket your $$$ if you don't feel you are using MF enough, or you can then move on to something like the Pentax 67 or 645. (Stay away from the Bronica.)

Great cameras are the Mamiya TLR, (several lenses available) Mamiya 645's, Mamiya RB's great, but can be heavy, Hasselblad's great, but pricey and Rollei Tlr's. But, if I was going to spend that much on a camera, I would at least get one where more than one lenses were available.

If you're interested in getting the most bang for your buck and that this is a hobby you're not too committed to yet, try an RZ67. It's affordable, has good glass and has the convenience of a revolving back [the film back revolves to give you portrait and landscape with the camera in the upright position with auto masking in the finder to reflect the change. Very important for MF especially if you're using a WLF... I think it'll be quite silly to do a portrait shot using a WLF sideways. Of course, a Hassy doesn't have such a problem since it is a square format.]. But do note that this is a very heavy camera that has been described by one of the forum members as a "mailbox". (: My set weighs in at 2.544kg.

I'm a student in Singapore who has no income whatsoever, so I think I'm as cheapo as it gets. I bought a 2nd hand RZ67 + Sekor C [meant for the RB] 127mm f3.8 + RZ67 Pro II back + WLF for 400SGD approx 270USD only. They aren't in excellent physical condition, but nothing is falling apart whatsoever. There're heavy scratches and dings on the film advance lever, which bears testament to the "mailbox's" amazingly durable build. The lens is very clean and the shutter seems quite accurate. Buy a proper Sekor Z lens plus an AE prism and you'll still have cash to spare from your 1000USD for film and processing. Oh yea, one advantage of using the Sekor C lens is that, you can run the camera on full manual, no need for batteries. The Sekor C doesn't meter with the AE prism though.

The mamiya 645 pro is worth considering too. Though it makes a small image on film and it costs more, it makes for a good transition from 35mm SLR.

So now you've got recommendations on just about everything<g>. Another good buy might be a Fuji rangefinder.

"So now you've got recommendations on just about everything<g>."

Hahahas, that's true. Most people would recommend their own gear and stuff. Well pretty much of the survivors in the MF are worth buying. Key considerations would be:

1) Price, as always - you can't buy what you can't afford 2) Availability of servicing - you won't want an expensive paperweight 3) Resale value in terms of price and demand for it - you don't want to get stuck if you find it unsuitable for your uses 4) Weight - you won't want to quit halfway up a trail cause' your gear weighing too damn much to bear 5) Durability - you won't want an assortment of expensive paperweight from one camera 6) Future proof - if you're rich and intend to attach a digital back to it

Weigh between the 6 and you'll probably still find a whopping lot of options. Just take a gamble and pray hard.

Do avoid the Russian cameras if you're totally new to the hobby. They can be quirky. One advice I've read off an old thread somewhere - if you're buying Russian cameras,look for the ugliest ones. They must be good to be that well used. The pretty ones are probably the dead copies which is why they're never used and minty. There are always exception to the rule though.