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Nikon L37c -- OR -- B+W mrc 010m f-pro?

Tony Bynum , Jan 18, 2005; 03:36 p.m.

I need to put a uv/haze filter on my new 70-200. I have Nikon L37c filters on all my other lenses but I noticed that B+W has a nice filter with new coating - is it any better than the Nikon or what? Any advice will be gladly accepted.

Thanks, Tony

Responses


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Jerry Litynski , Jan 18, 2005; 03:42 p.m.

You may not notice much between the two filters: the glass in the lens is what does the 'magic' in capturing the image. Some folks take the filter off to shoot, and put it back on to store and or haul the lens about. Your choice.

Vivek . , Jan 18, 2005; 04:15 p.m.

What is the point of putting L37 filter on all the Nikon lenses that will not let in any UV even down to 390nm or so?

Would it make any difference to have a L37 or a similar filter on your 70-200? No.

Klaus Klein , Jan 18, 2005; 04:51 p.m.

In case protection from mechanical damage is the sole purpose (the need to inhibit UV transmission is becoming a rare one, like Vivek said), a transmission-neutral protection filter such as Nikon's LC or B+W's Neutral 007 MRC should be an even better choice.

Shun Cheung , Jan 18, 2005; 04:58 p.m.

I am confident that you won't be able to see any difference as long as you have a good VU or clear filter in front of your lens.

However, if you always remove the filter before you shoot and then put it back on immediately afterwards, you might as well use a lens cap. It is much faster to remove a lens cap and if you keep screwing and unscrewing filters on and off, it is a matter of time that you'll accidentally drop the filter on your front element. My L37c's are on my lenses all the time unless I have the sun inside the frame; in that case I usually remove the filter for those shots.

David H. Hartman , Jan 18, 2005; 05:28 p.m.

The Nikon L37c has an aluminum mount and will deform so as to transmit less damaging energy to the lens. The B+W has a phosphor bronze mount which is stronger, less likely to bind in aluminum lens attachment threads (not found on your lens). Phosphor bronze is stronger than aluminum and more likely to transfer damage your lens. I’m pretty sure the attachment threads on your lens are of a poly fiber material so there is no aluminum on aluminum chaffing.

Preferences in filters are like preferences in motor oils. Just avoid the bad ones, (Pennsylvania grade like Pennzoil), too much paraffin, too much sludge.

An L37c filter is fine and adds no color cast. Hoya HMC filters are fine though they may have an CC025Y or less yellow cast.

There is too much dogma surrounding filter preferences and too few facts. The sure facts are take the filter off if you can’t keep the sun from shinning on the front of the lens and take the filter off for night photography with any bright light source included, street light, the moon, etc.

No, multicoated filters are not hard to clean. Use regent grade anhydrous methyl alcohol from school and science supply companies.

Aaron Ng , Jan 18, 2005; 08:13 p.m.

Hoya's HMC and SHMC filter coatings get dissolved by methanol (or ethanol). The ones that I had from years ago have their coating come off by cleaning with solvent and now the Hoya HMC and SHMC filters sold here in Australia come with a little warning note not to clean using any solvent. I tried distilled water, and that still caused the coating to lift slightly and resulted in patches on the coating that are observed when you tilt it against the light.

I now use B+W's MRC filters and also have an Nikon L37c. The coatings on these are still good and when you clean them, you can feel that the B+W and Nikon coated filters are more slippery compared to the Hoyas.

Like the previous poster said, just avoid the bad brands. Once you get the top brands (with top price), there is a minimal difference between them, unless you are purchasing colour control filters where you need a specific colour temperature.

Arnab Pratim Das , Jan 18, 2005; 08:53 p.m.

Aaron, that's interesting to know. If some coating gets dissolved by plain Ethanol of whatever concentration, it'd be more of a paint than coating.

Tony, I purchased a couple L37c filters two weeks as they work great as lens protectors too. They'll replace the Nikon Conversion A2 filters I have been using for film shoots. I like the fact that they can be used on Canon lenses (of compareable dia) too with appropriate stepping rings.

David H. Hartman , Jan 18, 2005; 10:20 p.m.

“Hoya's HMC and SHMC filter coatings get dissolved by methanol (or ethanol).” --Aaron Ng

I have used regent grade anhydrous methyl alcohol purchased from TRI-ESS Sciences, Burbank, California, 91506 as my exclusive lens cleaner since October 1978. I’ve used it all my Nikkor lenses owned from then to date. I’ve used it on my 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor Auto lenses vintage 1965 and 1968. I used it on my Pentax 6x7 SMC Takumars and Hasselblad/Carl Zeiss T* lenses. I’ve used it on all my Nikon and Hoya HMC filters.

Absolute methyl alcohol is the recommended lens cleaner in the Nikon instruction manual for my 210/5.6 Nikkor-W large format lens and subsequent Nikkor large format lenses. I know the date when I started using anhydrous methyl alcohol because of my insurance records. The instruction manual for my 55/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor recommends absolute ethyl alcohol. Does the maker of most of my lenses know what to use as a cleaner? I think so.

I’ve used methyl alcohol on few of my Nikon focus screens. A camera repairman friend warns that methyl alcohol will melt Canon focus screens. Nikon focus screens, at least the ones I own, are made of an optical acrylic. I believe Canon’s are made of an optical resin. YMMV!

I do not recommend cleaning focus screens though I’ve done it maybe three or four times. My camera repairman friend complains that he has to pay a liquor tax on absolute ethyl alcohol. Ethyl alcohol is “white lighting.” Methyl alcohol will cause blindness.

The only problem I’ve ever had with methyl alcohol is it removed the blacking around the front element of my vintage 1973 Schneider 135/5.6 Componon-S enlarging lens. I do not recommend methyl alcohol for vintage German cameras and lenses and other collectible cameras and lenses.

Tony Bynum , Jan 18, 2005; 10:30 p.m.

thanks for the answers. My purpose for a filter is for protection against dust, water, and scratches to the coating and glass.

Thanks again for the help!

Tony


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