A Site for Photographers by Photographers

Featured Equipment Deals

4 Current Trends in Engagement Photography Read More

4 Current Trends in Engagement Photography

Photographer and author Stephanie Williams discusses four current engagement photography trends.

Latest Equipment Articles

10 Stocking Stuffers under $50 Read More

10 Stocking Stuffers under $50

We've searched high and low to put together this list of 10 small photo-related gifts that any photography lover would be delighted to receive. No matter your budget, these are also fun to give (or...

Latest Learning Articles

State of the ART: The Little Lens That Could Read More

State of the ART: The Little Lens That Could

Fine art photographer Pete Myers talks about his love for the Cosina Voigtländer CV ULTRON 40mm SLii, a lens he considers to be "The Little Lens That Could."


Good studio lens for portrait work

Responses


First     Prev     1   |   2    

Ralph Berrett , Aug 13, 2007; 03:06 p.m.

Mine is tack sharp, this is my second tokina 28-70mm.. No issues so far. If it was soft I would not use it. I do a lot of work with it at f/2.8. I have learned like all wide angle zooms they are really sensitive to being dropped or banged around.


The tokina at f/2.8

Adam Maas , Aug 13, 2007; 03:06 p.m.

@Ralph Barrett: The 12-24 is a 18-36mm equivalent on 35mm. The conversion comes from the smaller than 35mm format of the camera's sensor, not whether or not the lens is digital specific. Focal Length is focal length, but focal length and the size of the negative/sensor both determine field of view. The 1.5x factor is just an easy way of comparing field of view between 35mm film and DX-format digital.

Ralph Berrett , Aug 13, 2007; 03:08 p.m.

Caption correction meant to say 28mm

Dave Moss , Aug 14, 2007; 03:32 a.m.

get the 85mm 1.4. it is nikon's best portrait lens. forget about the small sensor thing. and if you ever shoot film, you'll have it for that too.

i wouldn't recommend the zooms, unless you plan on doing things that zooms are good for. the 85, combined with your 50mm 1.8 are a formidable tandem for "portraits".

even the 105 makes a decent portrait lens. not as good as my beloved AIS 2.5, but it will do in a pinch ;=)

try the sigma 30mm 1.4 for 3/4 to full length shots on DSLR. very nice indeed.

Radu Pavel , Aug 14, 2007; 05:28 p.m.

Go for the 85 1.4 - the 1.8 version is decent too. If you mostly do studio work (you have control over your subject), you don't need any zooms. The 85 1.4 is a fast, great lens and better in all respects than a 85 2.8 on a 70-200/80-200. There is also the Zeiss ZF 85 1.4.

Jeff Spirer , Aug 14, 2007; 05:48 p.m.

The choice of lens depends to a great extent on the size of the studio. Without knowing the maximum distance between you and the subjects, and many studios are small enough to control that distance, nobody can tell you what you need, in particular for a full body shot. I've worked in large studios where 150mm would work and small ones where 35mm was the longest possible for a full body shot. Here's an example, this was shot with a 35 and I couldn't even go full body.


Angyl, Copyright 2006 Jeff Spirer

Paul A. - Los Angeles, CA. , Aug 15, 2007; 02:45 p.m.

Ralph, nice shots. Jeff, nice shot but a little soft in the eyes.

I'm the anamoly but I like the 85/1.4 Zeiss and 50/1.4 Zeiss for portraits.

Dimension of studio critical.

Jeff Spirer , Aug 15, 2007; 03:12 p.m.

The point of the photo wasn't focus, it was that you can't tell someone what lens will work until you know the size of the studio.

And what outdoor-nude-on-the-rocks photos have to do with working in the studio escapes me.


First     Prev     1   |   2    

Back to top

Notify me of Responses