What lens for birds and other wildlife?

Get Sigma 120-300 / 2.8 Digital Series and matching Sigma 1.4X tele-converter.

If your plan is for wildlife esp. birds you'll want the longest lens that you can afford. Zooms are nice for composition and creatures that allow you to get very close. Most birds do not let you get close and for those that do seagulls, pigeons, etc you can use your 18-200 VR.

Out of all the lenses you mentioned the 300mm AF-S will have the best optics (not sure how it stacks up to 200-400mm but that's out of the question anyway). The Sigma is pretty heavy so what you gain in OS still requires some type of support for long outings. The 300mm AF-S is hand holdable though I use a monopod when possible. 300mm works well with TCs. From word of mouth I hear the 50-500mm DG lens is sharper than the newer Sigma zooms. For what it's worth I'd go with the Nikon 300mm AF-S + TC or Sigma 50-500mm. Get a Bogen or Gitzo monopod and start shooting. My preference is for good optics over utility (e.g. zoom) and if I have a zoom lens for wildlife I'd be at the far end most of the time so makes sense for me to get the tele prime. For sports rather than skiddish wildlife I can see the purpose of a zoom.

Good luck.

I have a Sigma 50-500 mm that has been doing a pretty good job for wildlife. I'd really like more focal length, but everything else is way too pricey to justify.

BTW, a solid tripod is an absolute must! I have a Manfrotto carbon fiber with a fluid damped Manfrotto head. This combination works fine, and is not a compromise.

300mm or 400mm manual Nikkor and a TC convertor to get you out there and most bang for the buck...

denny

Richard, You can also check into some of the older Nikon AF-I series lenses.

I have a 300 f2.8 AF-I, and a 500 f4 AF-I. The AF-I lenses offer fast enough focus, and are considerably less expensive then any of the current lenses of this speed.

The only drawback is if they need repairs, there is a limit on what can be repaired because Nikon does not supprt this series of lenses any longer.

But these lenses work great for me!

If you want to go the Manual lens route, look at a 500mm f4 P lens. This lens is a sharp lens also. And as others have indicated, and tripod is a must for any of this large glass. Good luck in your search.

Serious glass for bird and wildlife photography will cost serious money. My advice would be to save up for the AF-S VR Zoom- NIKKOR 200-400mm f/4G IF-ED. Long, fast, primes would be better, but why don't you try the 200-400mm first and then if bird/wildlife photography becomes your passion, you can start looking at prime lenses. If not, the 200- 400mm lens holds it's value well for resale.

My response is based on your statement of wanting serious glass. If you are not serious, there are lots cheaper options which will seriously compromise the ease of capture and quality of your images.

Save up, Richard. I know it is hard, but it will be worth the wait.

You'll want at least the Nikkor 500mm F4, with a good tripod and a gimbal head for what you've described. Okay, you can't afford that now, it took me a long time too! Just keep in mind that what you're buying now will be temporary so you should consider the resale value for when you make the big step.

Ideally,
birds = 600mm/4
large wildlife = 200-400VR


Compromised solution:
birds = 200-400VR + TC14IIE + DX platform
large wildlife = 200-400VR


Highly compromised solution:
birds = 300/4 + TC17IIE + DX platform (viewfinder will not be bright enough and you'd be struggling with AF when bird is in shade)
large wildlife = 300/4 should be fine as long as you are willing to take a little more risk getting closer
Fantasy solution:
birds = 400/2.8 (without TC) = bright viewfinder and higher shutter speed at lower ISO
wildlife = 400/2.8 (take a few shots before I get killed because this lens cannot be handheld)

About that Sigma 120-300mm/2.8 HSM (no OS, by the way), it seems attractive based on the specs. But, as you may already know, maintaining an extremely tight tolerance for adhering to the design during manufacturing is very costly; and, it gets even costlier when a partially manufactured product has to be rejected because it is not within the tolerance range. Only the really anal company, so to speak, is willing to do that and that's why their products cost more. Based on my own experience and others experience, Sigma's tolerance range for maintaining the product to specs during manufacturing tends to be wider than Nikon or Canon. As such, I suggest getting the lens from a nearby store and returning/exchanging when you find something wrong. Check the outer ring of your images from your sample lens carefully. If they are too soft shot wide open, you might wanna think twice.