Sorry ... but another 50mm question.

[[ If I understand it right, the D-80 apperture effect is only f2]]

You do not understand this correctly. The camera body has nothing to do with the maximum aperture of the lens. If the lens is a f/1.4 lens then the largest available aperture is f/1.4 regardless of camera body.

[[You don't have to explain (unless you would like to), but I'm simply trying to find a place that can explain what all of this means so I can properly assess and purchase a lens that will work best for me.]]

How exactly will anyone be able to tell you what the acronyms mean if they can't explain what the acronyms mean? I don't understand what you're asking for here. Your goal should be to learn what these terms mean and how to apply them to your own photographic needs.

If I understand it right, the D-80 apperture effect is only f2, so there is no difference in puchasing a f1.4 or f/1.8.

That is not correct at all! The D80 will give you whatever apperture the lens has. This is not something that is ever determined by the camera body.
AF-S simply means that the lens is fitted with a silent internal focusing motor, as does HSM. the f/1.4 D means that the lens gives the camera information about the distance 'D' to the subject.
FWIW, all those lenses will work perfectly on a D80 and a D50.

"How exactly will anyone be able to tell you what the acronyms mean if they can't explain what the acronyms mean?"

All he was saying was "you don't need to type it all out (unless you want to), a link will be fine."

http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/support/faq_lens.htm

http://www.ndreview.com/nikon-glossary/nikon-lens-term-glossary/

AF-S means the lens has ultrasonic motor in the lens itself (in case of D40 which doesn't have a motor, AF-S are the only lenses that autofocus with D40)
AF-D came after AF, and the "D" stands for Distance which is communicated during flash.. something something
EX DG HSM... those are good letters, the more 2-3 letter acronyms with non-Nikon lenses the better :-). I think HSM=hyper sonic motor, and EX is something, not "excellent" but it should make the lens excellent
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you want to stay with Nikon if you can, otherwise there are all kinds of issues..... unless you want to save 30% or more of the price and you're ok with possible issues in future, including autofocus, lens not registering properly in EXIF, front-focusing issues, etc
there is 50mm f/1.4D and 50mm f/1.8, and latest is 50mm f/1.4 AF-S. $200 vs $110 vs $300... and i would pick the $110 50mm f/1.8D case closed, easy.... and you can spend money on something else [photographic]
the f/1.4 or f/1.8 is the maximum aperture of the lens, has nothing to do which body you are using. as you can see, it's $100 difference from f/1.4 vs f/1.8 in this case. the f/1.4 lens specifically is more appreciated for portraits, while the f/1.8 lens is more appreciated as all around, good enough, just as good as f/1.4 lens in many cases

Laura, Robert is being facetious with most of his post, and that may or may not be obvious to you depending on your experience level.

Nikkor AF-S 50 mm f/1.4 - What does AF-S mean? Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 D AF - What does D AF mean.Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM - What does EX DG HSM mean? (Digital and HSM is how Sigma says auto focus

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/nikon_articles/other/compatibility.html

Also every lens is different, for example Nikon 85mm f/1.4 is $1100 but 50mm f/1.4 is $200... or 85mm f/1.8 is $400 but 50mm f/1.8 is $110

The best would be to get for example 50mm f/1.8 and take so many pictures that you start seeing limitations of the lens, then rent a more expensive version of the lens, in this case $200 is not that much, but other cases are different... and IF you can see a difference in YOUR pictures, then you could benefit from that. Besides the cost, the weight becomes a factor too, the bigger the aperture [or smaller the f-stop number.... so f/2.8 is going to be lighter lens than f/1.4].

If you just have a 18-55mm kit lens with f/5.6 on the high end,
* $110 50mm f/1.8 would let you do portraits and enjoy f/1.8 or so at 50mm, being close-up to the subjects
* $770 105mm f/2.8 VR macro would let you do macros and portraits too
* $1100 300mm f/4 AF-S would let you take pictures of animals, birds [some birds... it's all about the technique and patience and waiting if you want awesome keepers.. and tripod too]

Those 3 lenses above you can do amazing things with, and it's a lot of money, but it's still the cheap HIGH-QUALITY way to get awesome pictures. The zooms like 70-300mm f/4-5.6 and 55-200mm f/4-5.6..... well sooner or later you will realize their limitation and get frustrated with, and one day you try the higher priced fixed primes like 105mm and 300mm f/4 and then you'll appreciate them..... assuming your technique has progressed to see pictures in your head before taking them :-)

And don't be afraid to ask questions, that's how you learn

Wow, Rob? Who ate your cupcake? I apologize if my wording was not to your liking, but it's obvious that I don't know what I'm talking about. Hence my posting to this forum and the request for help from experts like you. Thanks for more accurately restating my need: "Your goal should be to learn what these terms mean and how to apply them to your own photographic needs." Exactly. Which is the reason for my posting.
Sp, thanks for seeing through all the drivel and giving me what I needed.
Hammas and Robert, thanks for the explanations. I was given this erroneous information from a salesman in a camera shop and am glad that I double-checked with you.
Should anyone else feel the need to expound or pummel, have at it. I'll be in the bathroom crying.

I think it should be a rule that anyone who buys a Nikon DSLR and a kit lens also buy the 50mm f/1.8 (AF-D). Doing so will teach an incredible amount about:
Prime vs. zoom technique.
Fast vs. slow DoF and how it affects composition.
Prime vs zoom/kit sharpness.
Full aperture AF speed on your camera.
Etc., etc.

Given that the other basic tools which can drastically improve a beginner's photography cost several times the cost of this lens, it really ought to be a requirement. (I'm thinking dedicated flash and decent tripod and head.) The really nice thing about the 50mm f/1.8 is that it is priced to be damn near disposable. Hell, you can probably pick one up used for the cost of a high quality UV filter. As it stands it cost less than a high quality circular polarizer.

FYI: I have a Nikon D-80 and Nikon D-50 and would like to get a 50mm prime lens. If I understand it right, the D-80 apperture effect is only f2, so there is no difference in puchasing a f1.4 or f/1.8.

sigh...

Not your fault, Laura, so don't get me wrong. But I'm betting you're referring to a recent thread asserting that Nikon's can't accurately meter with lenses faster than f/2. It simply isn't true. But moderators have to walk a fine line between trying to maintain accurate information and not stomping on folks simply because they misunderstand how things work.

Anyway, even that bit of misunderstanding doesn't apply to most Nikon film SLRs made during the past couple of decades or any dSLRs and any Nikkor or third party lens with electronics. The aperture information is relayed electronically, not through a mechanically positioned ring.

Nikkor AF-S 50 mm f/1.4 - What does AF-S mean?
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 D AF - What does D AF mean?
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM - What does EX DG HSM mean?

AF-S Nikkors incorporate Nikon's Silent Wave Motor (to my knowledge Nikon does not use terms like "Ultrasonic" in describing their technology, since that term is used by another manufacturer). Directly from Nikon's own product literature, the SWM "converts 'traveling waves' into rotational energy to focus the optics, enabling high-speed autofocusing that's extremely accurate and super-quiet." In other words, the autofocusing motor is actually inside the lens.

AF Nikkors use what is sometimes referred to as a "screwdriver" type focusing mechanism. The gearing for autofocusing is inside the lens, but the body must provide the motor to drive the gears. There is, literally, a slotted screw type connection on the lens and a spring-loaded "male" screwdriver connector on the Nikon cameras that are equipped with internal AF motors (most, but not all autofocusing Nikon bodies are equipped with internal mechanical AF motors now).

This type of autofocusing method is surprisingly quick and accurate with pro and upper level Nikon bodies. Even some of the "lesser" bodies, such as my old N6006, are capable of quick and accurate autofocusing with AF Nikkors that don't have heavy moving masses of optical elements to be driven. I've been able to shoot sports such as skateboarding stunts using the N6006 and 28-85/3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor and 50/1.8D AF Nikkor. The N6006 would fare somewhat less well with something like the 80-400 VR Nikkor due to the heavier moving masses and, with other designs, the slower gearing that requires more rotation.

HSM is Sigma's proprietary designation for their lenses equipped with internal electronic autofocusing technology, their equivalent to Nikon's Silent Wave Motor in AF-S Nikkors.

Joel Jermakian , Jan 28, 2009; 03:29 p.m. (edit | delete )

I think it should be a rule that anyone who buys a Nikon DSLR and a kit lens also buy the 50mm f/1.8 (AF-D).

Unfortunately it's not that simple. The 50/1.8D AF Nikkor is not 100% compatible with all Nikon dSLRs.

And while I grew up in an era when virtually every camera was equipped with a "normal" focal length lens for a given format, whether a non-removable 80mm lens on a 6x6cm TLR or a typical 50mm lens on a 35mm SLR, that era is long past and that paradigm is no longer relevant to the needs of most photographers. Not only do most photographers prefer the flexibility of a midrange zoom, the 50mm focal length is no longer "normal" for any camera with a format smaller than 24x36mm.

So if a photographer using a smaller format dSLR wants or needs a faster lens, it's also appropriate to consider which focal length is best suited to that individual's needs. I may still find plenty of use for a fast 50mm lens with a DX sensor Nikon, but others may prefer a wider (or, in some cases, longer) focal length.

laura, no need to cry. robert just forgot his meds :)

lens nomenclature IS confusing. all it really means is that there are two versions of the nikon 50/1.4, one with a built-in motor for autofocus, one without. also that the sigma 50 has a similar motor. since you select aperture on your camera body, not on the lens with a DSLR, you dont have to worry about D or G. DG is sigma's way of saying the lens has multicoatings to reduce flare; DC means the same as nikon's DX, i.e., a digital-only lens. and EX stands for EXcept for these lenses, Sigmas arent very good -- j/k; it's sigma's higher-grade line with a build and finish significantly better than plastic consumer-grade glass, nikon kit lenses included. the optics are generally better than bottom-bucket sigmas too.

in terms of the 50mm choices, all are good. you might want to start with the nikon 50/1.8 which is very sharp and inexpensive. the 1.4s will give you better bokeh, or rendering of out of focus elements, and a better build than the 1.8. but the 1.8 might actually be sharper overall. since 50 is more of a short portrait length than a normal length on DX, it may not be worth it to spend more than $120 for one; the money you save vs. a 1.4 could go toward a nikon 35/2 or sigma 30/1.4, both of which are considered 'normal' lenses on DX.

personally, if i was choosing a 50/1.4 today, i'd look at the newer nikkor--the G model with AF-S vs. the sigma 50 HSM. check out photozone (dot) de and dpreview (dot) com for reviews. the sigma's bokeh appears to be significantly better than the nikkor, a source of consternation among nikon loyalists, no doubt.

You need to understand the viewfinder ceases to get brighter with a 2.0 or 1.4 over a 2.8 lens, but the camera metering and exposure can take advantage of a faster lens.

The new 50 1.4 Nikkor G is an awsome lens with a price to match. Worth it over a $300 1.4 AF in my opinion if you will use 1.4. Otherwise get the 50 1.8 AF Nikkor.

I would avoid non Nikkor lenses for many complicated reasons. Mostly because they they frequently do not focus properly now and the electronics may not match a new camera and you end up with a paperweight.

lol, ronald. you are aware the only normal-on-DX prime that will "focus properly" on a d40/d40x/d60 is the sigma 30/1.4, right?

Eric beat me to it. Two excellent lenses from Sigma would be the 30mm 1.4 and the 50mm 1.4. By almost all accounts the early issues with focus have been resolved and Sigma did an good job of working with people who had issues.
I used the 30 on a D200 and absolutely loved the lens. It performed flawlessly for the entire time I had it (unfortunately stolen a few months ago).
As for the 50, the Sigma is highly regarded in almost every review I've read. Time to stop beating up a company that's trying to make a good product.

Unfortunately it's not that simple. The 50/1.8D AF Nikkor is not 100% compatible with all Nikon dSLRs.

Perhaps I should mention that I think that DSLRs sold without the internal motors should also be outlawed for first time buyers for exactly that reason.
Yes, I totally recognize that I'm being unreasonable here. It was a rant, and like all good rants it contained something like 50% reasonable and 50% unreasonable content. (I also recognize that a person who quantifies rant content is a bit off ;-) )

http://photo.net/equipment/nikon/
http://photo.net/equipment/sigma/
The two links should give you just about all the nomenclature for the lenses. The only one I didn't see is the D designation for the Nikkor lens which meant that the distance information is transmitted to the camera for eTTL flash power calculation for exposure.

Joel - piggy-backing on your 'rant'...
OR....
Nikon should urgently upgrade its key AF-D primes to AF-S (as it has done with the 50mm) so that we have - at minimum - an AF-S option at each of 20mm, 35mm, 50mm (done), 85mm, around 135mm, and 180mm.
I realise this means that the joy of the current 50/1.8 as a super-cheap great quality 'introductory prime' might disappear...

Laura, you should be pretty well confused by now. My favorite 'makes-no-sense' example is Nikon's AF-S which typically refers to their Silent Wave Motor in the lens. Why not call it SWM instead? Because AF-S sure sounds neater than SWM even if it doesn't make sense.

Just in case you think you are getting this, Nikon also uses AF-S to refer to focus selection on some camera bodies like the D300. Here, AF-S refers to single servo mode which has nothing whatsoever to do with any AF-S lens, much less Silent Wave Motor.

I don't know who wins for longest name of a lens but Sigma sure has to be in the running with this.......... Sigma AF 150mm f/2.8 APO EX HSM macro DG D. Not to be outdone, Tamron came out with their updated Tamron AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF]. And Nikon has to be considered for their popular Nikkor AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR II DX lens.

I have no idea what all these initials mean but each manufacturer website explains them.

bruce, you forgot the Tamron "SP" designation, which means Super Performance or Sharp for the Price.

Thanks for mentioning that, Eric. I know there are certain Nikonistas here who would just love to say Tamron's SP means Short_on_Performance to them. :-)

Perhaps I should mention that I think that DSLRs sold without the internal motors should also be outlawed for first time buyers for exactly that reason.

Joel, should beginners be even using autofocus?

should beginners be even using autofocus?

Sure. Just like beginning drivers should have the option to learn on a car with an automatic transmission. There are many things for a beginner to learn. They can turn off the AF when they want to master that aspect of things, but if it's more important for them to first consider issues of composition or exposure, then - really - are we so worried that an AF camera is going to result in a cruel case of arrested development? I grow weary of the notion that AF is some sort of crutch that prevents people from realizing their potential. Yeesh!

The word of the day is "nomenclature": a system of words used to name things in a particular discipline; "legal terminology"; "biological nomenclature"; "the language of sociology." Or in this case, photographic terminology.

Thanks everyone for your patience and help. I learned a lot and have bookmarked Photo.Net's equipment page (Thank you Hansen). All I have to do now is figure out which lens works for me and will give me the best value for my dollar.

should beginners be even using autofocus?
Well, since I learned to drive on a 18 speed tractor...

It is a very good question. The camera I learned on had a much better focusing screen than anything I've used since (Minolta SRT 201, back in the 70s which was a great thing to learn on apart from having to unlearn thinking in shutter priority mode since changing shutter speeds required lowering the camera from my eye.) On that camera I found focusing completely natural and insanely accurate.
Today, given the almost inevitability the need to learn autofocus systems, of course beginners should be using autofocus. The key in my mind is that they should also be learning manual focus and how to focus bracket, prefocus, etc., as well.

My bit...to cut through the crap.
The only current digital Nikon body that won't auto focus with the AF-D lenses is the D40, becuase it doi=es not have the screw driver motor. Look at your D80 lens mount on you camera. See the little hole at about 7 O'clock. Thats the auto focus shaft from the internal motor. When you put an earlier AF or an AF-D lens on the camera, this shaft pops out and engages with the focus mechanism in the lens, like a little screw driver turning. Its a mechanical connection and on smaller lenses is VERY fast. The AFS (Silent Wave) lenses have their own motor and the camera talks to this motor electronically to do the focus adjustments. That's why the latest AFS lenses are so thick...the AFS focus motor stuff wraps all around the lens and the case has to make room for it.
All Nikon AF cameras (except the D40) since the F3 have had and will continue to have the shaft and motor in the body. Thats Nikons way of protecting your investment in all the older AF lenses.
Just go and buy an AFS or AF-D 50/1.8 and enjoy. The 1.4 is three times the cost and you won't notice any sharpness issues (1.8 is sharper, actually, esp after 2.8).

Stephen: You're forgetting the D40x (a variant of the D40), and the newer D60... which are also lacking the internal AF motor.