Roy Skridlov , Feb 01, 2009; 09:15 a.m.
How do I check this is operational? Jamming my ear against the camera and selecting it doesn't reveal any sounds of cleaning activity. I've seen associated noises referred to a couple of times so I'd expected to hear something. I have the function set apply on start-up too.
This whole dirty sensor issue is one of the biggest PIAs of today's otherwise miraculously good cameras. I just checked, and after about 1500 shots my D700 already has about half a dozen conspicuous specks visible @ F22. I have a D200 which I've had professionally cleaned at £30 a pop a couple of times last year. I'd hoped that the D700 might be a little more immune to the problem but it clearly isn't. Or the self-cleaning isn't happening.
I've looked again and again at the range of cleaning products available, and read dozens of opinions on various sites and there seems to be no clear consensus about how to clean sensors. No surprises there, then. Or put another way I have become completely confused by the options/viability. Post a question about cleaning sensors and you get a great flurry of contradictory answers in relation to the available tools. Of course this is all made more fraught by the possibility of guarantee-invalidating damage. Wet cleaning in particular gives me the horrors as "wet" and "camera" are two words that co-exist very unhappily in the same sentence (I speak from expensive experience). I was practically stupified recently when I read that the Eclipse solution (widely praised) actually exists in two formulations applicable to differently specified sensors: then I read some more and discovered that this requirement is arguable. Arrrrggghhh...
Looking at the price of various cleaning products, given that I have two bodies with different sensor sizes, and at the various tools available (for example it makes sense, I believe, to have a loupe so that it's possible to closely examine the newly-destroyed sensor) a comprehensive cleaning solution is pretty expensive! The Arctic Butterfly looked like an elegantly conceived product until I'd read some more opinions, by which time I had visions of it smearing camera grease (!) all over the place. Not that I can see any way that it differs from any other brush, apart from its electrostatic self-charging ability.
Let's see if I can formulate a different, but still useful question: has anyone out there actually damaged a sensor (or filter) whilst cleaning - or made the mess worse to the point of requiring professional attention?
In case it's not obvious, this is really bothering me.
Roy
Ilkka Nissila 
, Feb 01, 2009; 09:33 a.m.
The self-cleaning function in the camera just shakes the sensor. It may or may not remove any particular dust particle you have.
Why are you testing at f/22? Image quality at that aperture is really poor. Use f/11 for your tests and see if you can live with the dust.
I've never done wet cleaning of any of my DSLR sensors although I switch lenses several times per day and have shot about 75000 frames with them. When I have dust I just up the mirror and blow air on the sensor. Has worked every time so far. But I don't shoot at f/22.
Peter Gilbert , Feb 01, 2009; 09:41 a.m.
Roy:
Here's a thread you may find interesting (I trust you can read this without being a member of that group):
http://www.nikoncafe.com/vforums/showthread.php?t=209125
I have mine set (D700) to clean on shutdown only, I know Olympus cameras do their cleaning on startup (and there is an indicator light to show that it's functioning). DP Review has consistently criticized Olympus for cleaning on startup as it delays the camera being ready to shoot.
I have an Arctic Butterfly kit, but I've never had the need to use it. That's fine with me! I would never attempt a wet cleaning.
Peter
Roy Skridlov , Feb 01, 2009; 09:43 a.m.
Ilkka
Thanks. F22 just makes the dust obvious without having necessarily to tweak the levels to see it. But I take your point - if it's not visible at F11, it doesn't exist. I'd never voluntarily shoot anything at F22!
I've never blown air at the sensor - a simple and obvious strategy - because it seemed likely to stir dust in the chamber and make things worse. I'll give it a try now that I have someone to blame if it does (joke BTW!)
edit. Rocket blower or canned air (clean variety)?
Pete Harlan 
, Feb 01, 2009; 09:45 a.m.
Roy,
Like anything else, some options are meant for different things.
The self cleaning sensor on the D 700 works with certain kinds of dirt & dust. This option is more preventative in nature than it is a "clean all." (Welded) dust and dirt will probably NOT be solved with the self cleaning sensor. Now (new) dust can be removed before it becomes a problem. I'm a bit surprised you have so much dust already? You must change your lens often?
Good technique when changing lenses can minimize the sensor dust & dirt problem, such as avoiding changing lenses outside when possible..holding the lens opening downward when changing etc...
I'm not sure if I would want to enable the camera to clean every time I start it up. The system works by introducing multiple frequency sonic vibrations to the sensor. I have no proof to offer that frequent use of this is harmful except it goes against my better judgement having a good grasp on basic physics.
all the best,
Pete
Roy Skridlov , Feb 01, 2009; 09:59 a.m.
Peter. Interesting thread - makes me feel a bit better about my caution if still equally indecisive.
Pete. Yes, I do change my lens often (I do spherical VR panos quite a bit and the 10.5 fe isn't exactly versatile). I would hate to think twice about fitting the appropriate lens because of the dust problem. I'm as careful as the next person about changing lenses but it still gets in there. Your point about vibration is well made - I haven't come across many mechanical devices that are enhanced by vibration either - it makes most things fall apart. But it's an option to run on startup, and I would assume without hazard. Or had assumed.
Still, I repeat the original question. How can you tell if it's operational?
Edit. And again compressed air from a can? I once trashed a microswitch in a film body using it.
Roy
Bruce Margolis , Feb 01, 2009; 09:59 a.m.
Rocket blower or canned air (clean variety)?
Only use a rocket blower. The canned air type can leave a residue. A large bulb blower really does a decent job in most cases, and don't forget to also use it on your lenses, especially the rear contact. The lens caps should be cleaned as well because each can hold dust than can attach to the lens.
Roy Skridlov , Feb 01, 2009; 10:03 a.m.
Bruce. Post overlap. Yes, I usually blow all around the mount. Cap too although I sometimes forget this. One pair of hands whilst shooting is seldom enough hands. I frequently shoot in old buildings which are invariably dusty.
Kent Staubus , Feb 01, 2009; 10:58 a.m.
Do NOT used canned air. It often has liquid propellant in it. I use the large sized Rocket Bulb, and it works pretty well. I've never done any damage, and it does chase the dust out. I hold the camera upside down so gravity is my friend.
Kent in SD
Doug Santo 
, Feb 01, 2009; 02:50 p.m.
I started to notice some funky hazy areas in photos taken under certain circumstances with my D200. At first I couldn't figure out what it was, but it finally dawned on me that I had dust on the sensor. It took some time to get up enough guts to actually do something about it, but I finally did. I use a combination of dry and wet cleaning techniques. I got them from this site. http://www.copperhillimages.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=4
I start with the sensor sweep. I prepare for the cleaning by vacuuming my table saw and garage to remove wood working dust. I work on my metal table saw surface after it is cleaned. Adjacent to the work area I setup the 4" diameter hose from my woodworking dust collector so that when the collector is on it draws air right through my work area. Turn the dust collector on and allow it to run for a minute or two. Prepare your camera by removing the lens or body cap. Use the camera menu to set mirror up for cleaning, but don't activate it yet. Now, prepare the sensor sweep brush by holding the bristles against the edge of the dust collector hose so that the incoming air strongly agitates the bristles. Roll the brush around to get both sides. This electrically charges the bristles and makes them more efficient for cleaning. Activate mirror up and clean the sensor (actually it is not the sensor, but a filter that sits over the sensor). Do one pass with the brush at a time recharging the brush at the dust collection hose after each pass. Go long ways, then short ways across the sensor surface with care as you go into or start at the corners. This usually gets all the particles off the sensor surface.
Sometimes I follow the dry cleaning with a sensor swab wrapped in a Pec Pad and wetted with a couple drops of eclipse fluid. I do the wet cleaning right in front of the dust collector hose so the incoming air crosses right above the camera. The eclipse fluid dries almost instantly using this setup.
It works.
