Contents

• Introduction
• Equivalent Model Names in Europe/Japan and the U.S.
• Introduction to the N-Series
• Comments on Older N-series Cameras
• Views on the N50, N60, N6006 and N70
  • N50 vs. N6006
  • N60
  • N70
• N70, N6006, N60 and N50
• N8008 and N90
• Why I chose Nikon

In response to ongoing queries about which SLR is a good choice for beginners, I've compiled data on the Nikon N-series cameras into a pair of charts. The first chart compares the N70, N6006, N60 and N50 bodies. The second chart compares the these four cameras to the N8008(s) and N90(s). Note that the notation "N8008(s)" refers to the N8008 and the N8008s and that "N90(s)" refers to the N90 and the N90s. Also included is a chart of model equivalencies between the American and European/Asian naming conventions and a very subjective comparison of the N50 and N6006.

I've been asked to address the F100 and the Pronea-S here. I only know a little about the F100 and unless I hit the lottery (or my photography starts paying off better), I won't have much chance to use one. What little I do know about it is included in notes here and there, but it's not formally a part of the comparison. If I do get lucky and get to use one, I'll write a review when I can. The Pronea-S is an APS camera and, since this section is about 35mm equipment, I won't include it here.

The larger issue of whether to buy Nikon or Canon is addressed on the Nikon vs. Canon page. There is also some more in-depth comparative information on the Nikon and Canon review pages. For what it's worth, I've also included a little blurb on why I prefer Nikon at the end of this page.

I hope this will help those who are considering the purchase of a Nikon make a more informed decision. If there's anything I left out or if you find errors, let me know via e-mail -- I want this table to be a help, not a hindrance.

Please note that most of what is here is hard fact, but that I've added my opinions in quite a few spots. These are MY opinions and you're free to disagree with me, but flames will be summarily ignored and will just cause you to be added to my kill file.

N-series Model Equivalencies:

Those of you who are more familiar with the European/Asian naming convention should note the following model equivalencies...

U.S.	Europe/Asia
N50	F50
N60	F60
N70	F70
N90	F90
N90s	F90x
N2000	F301
N2020	F501
N4004(s)	F401(s)
N5005	F401x
N6000	F601m
N6006	F601
N8008(s)	F801(s)

Introduction to N-Series Cameras:

The N-series encompasses the models listed in the above table. Nikon introduced the N-series in the mid-eighties to compete with the automated cameras from the other manufacturers like the Maxxum and early EOS cameras. The line didn't really get popular with pro photographers until the release of the N8008. Today, lots of pros use the N8008(s), N90(s) and quite a few still use the N6006 as a backup and/or a second body. Some still use the N6006 as their primary camera, though this is less common.

The N2000 and N6000 are manual focus cameras -- the rest are autofocus. All of these cameras have the Nikon F-mount, but none will allow pre-AI lenses to be mounted without damaging the aperture indexing tab. If you have any pre-AI lenses, they'll need to be AI-modified before you can safely mount them on any N-series camera.

The N-Series cameras are a great way to get into the Nikkor lens line and have autofocus without spending a ransom on an F4 or F5 body. The used market for these cameras is huge, so if you can't afford the price of a new camera, chances are you can find a very good used one for a lot less.

Comments on Older N-series Cameras:

I haven't included the data for the N4004(s) or N5005. Suffice it to say that I DON'T like these cameras, least of all the N4004 as it's AF is pretty close to worthless. The AF on the N4004s is better, but it's still insufferably slow. The N5005 is better -- I like its interface better than that on the N50 because it's simpler. The N4004(s), N5005, N50 and N60 are unable to use Nikkor AI or AIS manual focus lenses. The lens will mount, but the meter will not function. Personally I hate this as there are piles of good used Nikkor manual focus lenses available, none of which can be used on these cameras without a separate light meter.

The interface on the N4004(s) and N5005 is like that on the F5 and F100 (and N60, kinda) in that the aperture is set by turning a dial on top of the camera instead of by twisting the aperture ring. This is nice, but switching between a traditional Nikon body like an F3 and a 4004/5005 can be a bit frustrating if you're in a hurry. In the implementation of this feature, Nikon designed the camera so that the meter will only function when the lens is set at its narrowest aperture (marked in orange on the aperture ring). If you're using an AF lens on a conventional camera such as the F3 or FM and you swap that lens to the N4004, N5005 (or N50/N60 for that matter), you MUST remember to twist the aperture ring to the narrowest aperture and lock it even if the latter camera is in aperture priority or manual exposure mode. Also, on the N4004/N5005, the only indication that the aperture ring is set wrong is the "+" and "-" LEDs alternately flash at you. With the N50/N60, you'll get an "FEE" display in the finder which is a bit more informative. Note that with the F5 and F100, you can still use the aperture ring to change the aperture -- you just don't see the aperture value in the LCD display (ugh). At least the F5 has a little window (the ADR window; ADR="Aperture Direct Readout") that lets you see the aperture ring; the F100 doesn't.

The N2020 isn't included here either. It is the predecessor to the N6006. Its AF is pretty unimpressive, though it seems a little better than that on the N4004; faster anyway. However, it has an interface somewhat like the old FA which is MUCH nicer than that on the N4004(s), N5005, or N50. Also, unlike the N4004(s), N5005, N50 and N60, the N2020 can use any manual focus Nikkor AI or AIS lens -- a feature that can save you a LOT of cash. It doesn't have the limitation that the aperture ring must be at the orange mark in manual or aperture priority exposure mode, so for those who use older manual focus cameras, swapping lenses isn't as cumbersome. If you discount it's old AF technology, the N2020 is a neat little camera.

The N2000 and N6000, as mentioned earlier, are manual focus versions of the N2020 and N6006. I've had no experience with either camera. Given that the N2020 and N6006 are available used at such inexpensive prices, you'd be better off to get the AF cameras. Even the AF on the N2020 is useful if you have the time and the scene has enough contrast to let it work.

Views on the N50, N60, N6006 and N70:

N6006 and N50:

In my view, the N6006 is a much more capable machine than the N50. The only two features (both minor at best) that the N50 has over the N6006 are the 3D meter and the 1/2-stop clicks on the shutter speed dial. The 3D meter in the N50 is NOT used for flash metering, so it offers no real advantage. 3D metering only has a significant effect on flash photography -- in my experience and that of others, it seldom has any detectable effect on available light photography.

On the N6006, exposure compensation can be used to change the shutter speed in 1/3-stop increments when using program AE or aperture priority AE. In shutter priority AE, exposure compensation causes the aperture to be shifted in 1/3-stop increments, so you can still control the exposure to 1/3-stop. In manual mode, the aperture ring can be set anywhere, not just at one of the click stops (the click stops are ONLY reference points), so you can fine-tune the exposure by slowly turning the aperture ring until the electronic analog display shows a perfect exposure. The N50 uses button pushes to change the aperture and shutter speed in half-stop increments. Thus the N6006 offers finer control in this regard.

The N6006 and N50 both use the AM200 AF sensor, so despite the fact that the N50 uses the same naming convention as the N70 and N90s, it has the SAME autofocus as the N6006. The N70 uses the CAM274 sensor which is MUCH more sure-handed than the AM200.

In all other respects, the N6006 is a much better camera than the N50. If nothing else, the N6006 can use manual focus lenses without losing its metering, unlike the N50. Considering the large number of used MF Nikkor lenses available, that alone is a huge advantage.

The interface on the N6006 is an extension of that found on the N8008(s) and N90(s). A "shift" button was added to the N6006 to allow access to the flash features. This interface is easy to get used to especially if you've ever used an N8008(s) or N90(s). The interface on the N50 is another matter entirely. This is strictly my opinion, but the interface on the N50 just feels cheap and cumbersome to me. I used to have a Maxxum 2xi and was always jealous of Nikon and Canon users who could change the aperture and shutter speed with a twist of the aperture ring or a turn of the thumb-dial. On the N50, you use a button to scroll through the apertures and shutter speeds. Note that the aperture-ring caveat that applies to the 4004/5005 also applies to the N50; if you take an AF lens off of a more conventional camera that's working in aperture priority or manual mode and mount it on the N50, you MUST turn the aperture ring to the narrowest aperture (the number marked in orange on the aperture ring) or the N50's meter will not function. This is true even if the N50 is set for aperture priority or manual operation.

N60:

Most of the technical limitations of the N50 also apply to the N60 when comparing it to the N6006. It has the older AF sensor, it can't use manual focus lenses without losing its metering and it has the aperture ring caveat mentioned above. A few features have been added that make it more competitive with the N6006 from a useability standpoint, but I still prefer the N6006 by a wide margin.

The big difference between the N50 and N60 is the interface, and it is a HUGE difference. The N50's interface is a nightmare; the N60's is a dream. The N60's interface is designed after that on the Canon EOS cameras -- long known for their simplicity. In short, the N60 is as user-friendly as the N50 is "user-irritating." That horrendous button-driven scrolling to change the aperture and shutter speed on the N50 has been replaced by a thumb-dial and an aperture button. It's not perfect, but it beats the daylights out of the N50's methods. Here's the scoop by mode.

• Program shift in Program mode is as easy as turning the dial. That's Program mode, not AUTO mode.
• To change the aperture in aperture-priority mode, just turn the dial.
• To change the shutter speed in shutter-priority mode, just turn the dial.
• In manual mode:
  • To change the shutter speed, just turn the dial.
  • To change the aperture, hold the aperture button and turn the dial.

The N60 changes the aperture and shutter speed in 1/2-stop increments.

If money was tight, I had to buy an AF backup body and I couldn't buy used, I could live with an N60. The N50 would wind up at the bottom of Lake Erie.

N70:

The N70's feature set much like an upgraded N6006. It has superior AF, 3D metering for both ambient and flash photography, and several flash features the N6006 lacks. The user interface on the N70 has received mixed reviews. It's very logical, but it's not fast and you must take your eye away from the viewfinder to change most settings. Personally, I like the interface on the N6006 better than that on the N70. There is still no depth of field preview or mirror pre-fire on the N70, nor is there a vertical grip for it. Given the absence of these features and the slower interface, Nikon will probably continue to take a beating from the Elan II(e) in the mid-range amateur market. Those trying to decide between the N70 and the Elan II(e) should first check Philip's Nikon vs. Canon page. There's some more in-depth comparison info on the Canon reviews page and the Nikon reviews page.

Several folks have expressed a fear that the N70 isn't as tough as the N6006. On initial inspection, it's easy to see where this impression comes from as the N6006 just seems heftier and similar in build quality to the N8008(s). However, reports from the rec.photo newsgroups have not borne out this fear. The N70 seems to be plenty reliable for most work. It likely won't take the pounding that an F4 can take, but under normal circumstances it should be fine.

More detailed info on the N70, N6006, N60 and N50 can be found in the following table and corresponding notes.

Comparison of Features - N70, N6006, N60 and N50*:

The N70 and N6006 are very similar in function. Although Nikon states that the N70 replaced the N8008s, its feature set is more reminiscent of the N6006. The N50 is the consummate Ph.D. camera (Ph.D. = "Push here Dummy"). Fortunately, the N60, N6006 and N70 can also be used in "Ph.D." mode.

Common Points:

• All four systems have a pop-up flash.
• All four systems have a maximum flash synch speed of 1/125th sec.
• All have an analog exposure scale (see note below)
• All are available as QD models (QD=Quartz Date), but none have interchangeable backs.
• None is able to use high-speed flash synch with the SB-26 (see note below).
• None of these have depth of field preview (see note below).

Note that adjacent rows with a ## in the note column are related.

N70	N6006	N60	N50	Note
CAM274 AF sensor	AM200 AF sensor	AM200 AF sensor	AM200 AF sensor	(1)
Will AF with AF-I/S lenses	_NO_ AF with AF-I/S lenses	_NO_ AF with AF-I/S lenses	_NO_ AF with AF-I/S lenses	(2)
3D ambient metering	2D ambient metering	3D ambient metering	3D ambient metering	(3)
3D flash metering	2D flash metering	2D flash metering	2D flash metering	(3)
Monitor Pre-flash	_NO_ Monitor Pre-flash	_NO_ Monitor Pre-flash	_NO_ Monitor Pre-flash	(3)
Red-eye reduction	_NO_ Red-eye reduction	Red-eye reduction	_NO_ Red-eye reduction
Flash compensation	Flash compensation	_NO_ Flash compensation	_NO_ Flash compensation
Rear-curtain Synch	Rear-curtain Synch	_NO_ Rear-curtain synch	_NO_ Rear-curtain synch
Slow Flash Synch	Slow Flash Synch	Slow Synch	Buried Slow Synch	(4)
28mm flash coverage	28mm flash coverage	28mm flash coverage	35mm flash coverage (worse)
Will autozoom w/SB24-28	_NO_ autozoom w/SB24-28	_NO_ auto-anything with w/SB24-28	_NO_ autozoom w/SB24-28	(5)
Spot Meter	Spot Meter	_NO_ Spot Meter	_NO_ Spot Meter
1/4000th sec shutter	1/2000th sec shutter	1/2000th sec shutter	1/2000th sec shutter
Works with MF lenses	Works with MF lenses	_NO_ MF lenses	_NO_ MF lenses	(6)
Electric remote Release	Mechanical remote rel.	_NO_ remote release	_NO_ remote release	(7)##
Bulb Exposure	Bulb Exposure	"TIME" exposure	"TIME" exposure	(8)##
_NO_Mirror lock or pre-fire	_NO_Mirror lock or pre-fire	0.5 sec mirror pre-fire	0.5 sec mirror pre-fire	(9)##
Has +/- focus guides	Has +/- focus guides	_NO_ +/- focus guides	_NO_ +/- focus guides
DX Override	DX Override	_NO_ DX Override	_NO_ DX Override	(10)
"Canned" programs	_NO_"Canned" programs	"Canned" programs	"Canned" programs	(11)
Good interface	"Standard" interface	EOS-like interface	Mediocre interface	(12)
Quick Recall (QR) mode	_NO_ Quick Recall	_NO_ Quick Recall	_NO_ Quick Recall	(13)
QR-0 = "Simple Mode"	Two-button "Simple Mode"	"AUTO" Mode	Adv./Simple switch	(14)
Auto-bracketing	Auto-bracketing	_NO_ Auto-bracketing	_NO_ Auto-bracketing	(15)
3.1 fps film advance	3.1 fps film advance	_NO_ continuous advance	_NO_ continuous advance

* Much of the info here comes from Bo-Ming Tong's excellent Nikon FAQ

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Notes

1. The CAM274 is the successor to the CAM246, the sensor used in the N90(s). The AM200 was used in the N8008(s) and F4.
   
   
2. The AF-I and AF-S lenses have internal focus motors. These are very quiet and fast and allow you to do the same simultaneous AF/MF trick that you can do with Canon's USM lenses. Unfortunately, Nikon elected not to add the circuitry necessary to drive these lenses to the N6006, N60 or N50.
   
   
3. The N50 and N60 have 3D meters, but only use 3D for ambient photography, NOT for flash metering. But flash metering is where the 3D meter really shines. Go Figure...

   3D metering only works with D lenses.

   3D flash metering uses barely visible monitor pre-flashes to determine the flash exposure. Unlike any previous system, the camera knows the flash exposure before the shot is taken.

4. Slow flash synch allows the camera to use shutter speeds below 1/60th sec when using the flash in program or aperture priority autoexposure. This is very useful for tripod shots in which you want to illuminate a foreground object with flash and still properly expose a darker background under it's own ambient light. An example would be a person standing in front of an illuminated fountain at night. You'd have the person essentially "freeze" during the time the shutter is open. The flash would illuminate the subject for the first instant (or last instant if you're using rear curtain synch), and the background would subsequently be exposed.

   The N50 and N60 have a "Night" program that has slow synch built in (thanks to Steve Bergens for pointing this out). The N60 allows you to select slow synch explicitly in any autoexposure mode, but with the N50, the only access to slow synch is via the "Night" program. You can do slow synch in manual or shutter priority mode on the N50 by using the flash and just using a slower shutter speed, but there's no way to do it in program or aperture priority modes.

5. The N50, N60 and the N6006 will not zoom the flash head automatically when you change the focal length of a lens or even when you change lenses. The N60 wouldn't talk to the SB-25, SB-26 or SB-28 at all except to receive the cut-off signal. The film speed isn't transmitted, nor is the aperture. I don't know whether this is true with the N50, but try it before you buy. It would probably be best to get an SB-22 or an aftermarket flash if you want an accessory flash with the N60. The SB-16b would do nicely, but it's not cheap.
   
   
6. You can mount manual focus lenses on the N50 or N60, but the meter won't work. With the N70 and N6006 (and N8008s, N90s & F100) you only lose matrix metering with MF lenses.
   
   
7. The N6006 wins here. The electric release for the N70 is a lot more expensive than the cable release for the N6006. The lack of any provision for remote release on the N50 and N60 is just ridiculous in my opinion.
   
   
8. This is like the "TIME" exposure on the F3 except that you can't use a cable release with it and you can't use it when the camera is powered off. Essentially, it's "BULB" without having to hold the shutter button down. You depress the shutter, the mirror fires, and a half-second later, the shutter opens. You hit the shutter button again to close the shutter (thanks again to Steve Bergens for pointing this out).
   
   
9. Not a bad feature, but I wouldn't rely on that half-second lag between the mirror and shutter to damp out oscillations unless you're using a beefy tripod like the Bogen 3051. Better to do the old hat trick -- put a hat or dark cloth over the lens, trip the shutter, and then gently remove the hat/dark cloth for the exposure period. When the exposure is done, put the hat/dark cloth back over the lens and then close the shutter. Of course, this wouldn't be as big an issue if the camera had a socket for a cable release.
   
   
10. DX Override is a nice feature for times when you want to shoot a roll of film at a speed different than its rated speed. You can do this on the N50 & N60 using exposure compensation or in manual mode by metering the scene, and then adjusting the exposure to be however many stops from the metered exposure. This, however, is a lot less intuitive that just setting the film speed yourself.
    
    
11. These are only of limited usefulness IMO. Unfortunately, slow synch is buried in one of these with the N50 -- no other way to get at it.
    
    
12. The interface on the N70 is a little slower to use, but is very logical once you get the method down. The interface on the N6006 is an extension of that on the N8008(s) and N90(s). The interface on the N60 is reminiscent of that on the EOS cameras -- in other words, well done. You can keep it simple or you can get into the more sophisticated stuff with a turn of the mode dial. The interface on the N50 is easy if you keep the camera in simple mode (i.e. program AE, AF, etc.), but if you try to use manual mode or aperture priority mode, or access the advanced features, it gets unnecessarily awkward.
    
    
13. The N70 allows you to set three memory settings. These will remember the camera's state (i.e. exposure mode, flash modes, metering, etc.) when you store them so that you can recall that state later on. These storage areas are called QR-1, QR-2 and QR-3.
    
    
14. ...or how to set Ph.D. mode. If you set the N70's Quick Recall setting to QR-0, you pull up the factory default settings -- matrix metering, program mode, focus priority AF, wide-area AF sensor & single film advance. The N6006 has a similar function that is accessed by depressing two of the buttons on the circular 4-button cluster on the left side of the camera and holding them for two seconds. Remember, you have to set the aperture ring to it's highest (numerically) setting to use Program mode.
    
    The N60 wins here. You set the mode dial to the green "A" setting and voila, Ph.D. mode. With the N50, you set the "Advanced/Simple" switch to "Simple."
    
    
15. The autobracketing on the N70 will only give you one frame on either side of the metered exposure. The N6006 will give you one or two frames on either side.
    
    Rob Claessen pointed out that you can use exposure compensation to shift the bracketing on the N70. He writes, "By overruling the metered exposure (e.g. bracket + or - 1/3 stop, and then add 1/3 stop to the metered exposure), it will make an autobracketing set of: 0, +1/3 and +2/3 stops." Thanks for letting us in on this, Rob.

Note on the Analog Scale:
This is the scale that tells you how far the exposure is off when you're in manual mode. It's essentially the same thing as the match-needle metering of the Photomic cameras of old. I find it indispensable for manual photography. In the last revision of this page, I stated that there was no scale on the N50. I might have been wrong or maybe Nikon slipped one in on later models, but the last N50 I looked at had one. The N8008s has the best analog exposure scale of all the N-series cameras. It shows +/- 2 stops whereas the N50, N60, N6006, N70 and N90(s) only show +/- 1 stop.

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N8008(s) and N90(s):

These cameras are more oriented toward pros than are the N70, N6006, N60 or N50. The N90s has the fastest AF of any existing Nikon camera except the F5 and F100. The N90 AF is slower, but a bit faster than that of the N8008s. The N90 and the N70 have similar AF speed. The N6006 and the N8008 have slower AF, but still faster than the N5005 or N4004(s). The N90s is the only N-series camera rated by Nikon as a pro camera. It has better weatherproofing than the N90, N8008s or N8008.

One of the biggest advantages to these cameras is the 1/250th sec maximum flash synch speed. For shooting action with fill flash, the extra stop helps cut down on motion blur.

The autofocus and metering on the N90(s) and N70 have similar performance characteristics. The N8008 performs much like the N6006; the N8008s has faster autofocus, but its AF accuracy is about the same as the N8008 and N6006.

The N8008s doesn't have all the latest technical wizardry of the N90s or even the N70, but there's just something about this camera that makes it fun to use. For those who need a pro-grade Nikon SLR for a reasonable price, a good used N8008s will fill the bill nicely. The only big design deficit with this camera is that it doesn't autofocus with Nikkor AF-I or AF-S lenses.

Other points:

• Both systems will work with manual focus lenses.
• Both systems have depth of field preview (1).
• Both systems have a maximum flash synch speed of 1/250th sec.
• Both systems have a 1/8000th sec max shutter speed.
• Both will autozoom with flash units that support this function.
• The only one of these cameras that lacks a spotmeter is the original N8008.
• Both have +/- focusing guides.
• Both systems have DX Override.
• Both systems have a two-button "Simple Mode" The N90(s) uses two buttons marked with a green dot; the N8008(s) uses the same method as the N6006; hold two of the four buttons in the circular cluster for two seconds.
• Both systems have BULB exposure, but for "TIME" exposure, you need either the multi-function back or, with the N90(s), the MC-20 remote release or the data link system. Time exposure on these differs from that on the N50/N60 in that you can specify the time the shutter remains open up 100 hours.
• Both systems can do flash compensation with the SB-24, SB-25, SB-26 or SB-28 (not sure about the SB-27). To do flash compensation with other flash units on the N90(s), the multi-function back is necessary. I don't think the multi-function back for the N8008(s) will do flash compensation.
• Neither system has mirror lock-up or mirror pre-fire.
• Neither system has a Quick Recall function.
• Neither system has a pop-up flash.

The following table compares the N70, N6006, N60 and N50 to the N8008(s) and N90(s). The N70, N6006 and N50 will be referred to as the "Amateur Models" not because they're unsuitable for pro use, but because of their intended market. Also, a *** in the "Amateur Models" column means the data is as noted in the amateur models comparison table.

DOF preview means "Depth of Field" preview. This feature is very useful for seeing what will and won't be in focus when the shot is taken. This only works in aperture priority auto mode and in manual exposure mode!! The DOF preview is mechanical, not electronic, so it sets the diaphragm to the setting on the aperture ring ONLY. Because the aperture ring must be at its highest numerical value when the camera is in shutter priority or program AE mode, the DOF preview will close the diaphragm all the way down in these modes no matter what the camera selects as the actual aperture setting.

High speed synch allows you to use a shutter speed of up to 1/4000th sec with the flash. This is useful for using flash with very fast action or for getting a very shallow depth of field in a flash shot. The N90 and N90s are the only N-series cameras that support this function.

The N6006, N50, N60 and N70 have all their flash functions built in to the body. Thus you can buy a less expensive flash and still get most of the functions of the N8008(s)/SB-24 or the N90(s)/SB-26 combination. The N90(s) has slow synch, rear synch and red-eye reduction on board. To use slow synch on the N8008(s) set the flash for rear-curtain synch. For an explanation of slow synch, see note 8 in the amateur models section. The flash intended for the N8008(s) is the SB-24, the flash for the N90 is the SB-25, and the flash for the N90s is the SB-26. The SB-25 can be used on the N90s, but red-eye reduction won't work. The SB-26 is completely functional on the N90, however.

3D metering works only with D lenses. The N90(s) also uses 3D metering for ambient light shots. 3D flash metering uses barely visible monitor pre-flashes to determine the flash exposure. Unlike any previous system, the camera knows the flash exposure before the shot is taken.

The amateur models only have date imprinting available. The American amateur models don't have interchangeable backs, but the European models (F50, F601, F70 and, I believe, the F60) do. With the American models, you have to buy a "QD" model ("QD" means "Quartz Date") or the plain model. The plain model not only lacks the QD back, it lacks the circuitry to drive it.

The N8008(s) and N90(s) can use the multi-function backs which allow many features that aren't built in to the camera. The MF-25 for the N90(s) is merely a date imprinting back, but the MF-26 allows multiple exposure, data imprinting, flash compensation with non-dedicated flash units, freeze focus, intervalometer, and others. The MF-20 for the N8008s is a data-only back. The MF-21 is similar to the MF-26 except that it has no flash compensation.

The N90(s) data link system has all the features of the MF-26 except data imprinting. It will, however, record exposure data for up to 52 rolls and allows you to reprogram exposure curves and such. It also stores the entire N90(s) user's manual on line. You need a Sharp Wizard (tm) personal organizer for this, so it isn't cheap.

The top deck LCD lamp is a NICE feature for anyone who does low-light photography. It's too bad the N8008(s) and the amateur models lack it.

The N8008s wins on this count. Its analog exposure scale is +/- 2 stops. The N6006, N70 and N90(s) only show +/- 1 stop.

The CAM246 has very nearly the same capability as the CAM274 sensor used in the N70. The CAM246 is MUCH more accurate than the AM200. The AF on the N8008s is okay, but that on the N90s is much better.

AF-I and AF-S lenses are the ones with the focusing motor in the lens. To use these, the camera must know when an AF-I/S lens is mounted and have the smarts to send the "Focus In" or "Focus Out" signals to it. With conventional AF lenses, the lens is focused by a motor in the camera that links to the focusing mechanism of the lens via a little rotating screwdriver blade on the lensmount.

Why Nikon elected not to add AF-I focusing to the N8008(s) is a mystery. This is a black mark on an otherwise very good camera. Note that the F4 was introduced before the N8008s and it is able to autofocus with these lenses. N8008(s) users wanting a 300mm f/2.8 AF lens can look for the older, mechanically focusing Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 AF. For longer AF lenses, there are several 3rd party options available. The new motorized 28-70mm and 80-200mm f/2.8 lenses probably won't work on the N8008(s), N6006, N60 or N50, but the older, non-motorized versions can be used on these cameras (at a significantly lower cost).

The autobracketing available with the MF-26 is more versatile than that built in to the N6006 or N70. It'll allow up to 19 exposures -- eight frames on either side of the metered exposure. I don't know if Rob Claessen's technique of shifting the bracketing with exposure compensation will work with the MF-26.

 

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Why I chose Nikon

A bit of a rant...

It basically came down to the compatibility issue. I wanted a backup body that I could rely on in even the ugliest conditions and one that could take some "all-thumbs-photographer" fumbling without quitting. Why this obsession?? In December of 1994, I lost a shot that might have generated more than just a few bucks, not to mention a great deal of personal satisfaction. I was in Tampa photographing Manatee at the Tampa power plant's cooling water discharge. These friendly 1-ton critters come up into the channel in the winter because the water is about 75 degrees and the Gulf is too cold to sustain them at that time of year. Suddenly we noticed a Manta Ray (or a very big, very dark Channel Ray) jumping out of the water in much the same manner as a dolphin would. I decided wanted that shot but it wasn't to be. Why didn't I get it?? The shutter on my Maxxum 2xi had jammed. The camera sounded a bit odd right after I'd reloaded it, but I didn't have a backup so I just set up and hoped for the best. A few minutes later, the ray jumped right into my field of view, I fired the shutter and immediately all manner of congrats flowed from the other photographers there. Unfortunately, the shutter had only opened about 1/8th inch and all that praise was in vain.

I didn't remember touching the shutter blades -- I'm usually very careful about that. I phoned around and finally found a repair tech -- a real pleasant, competent Russian guy with a little shop near the Tampa airport -- who was willing to stick around and try to fix the camera that evening. I told him that I was certain this wasn't my fault. He reasoned that maybe the film leader had snagged the left shutter blade guide during the previous rewind and pried the blade loose. Whether he he really meant this or just said it because I looked so pitiful is something I'll likely never know.

A modest $25 later, the camera was fixed and I was back in business, but the Manta (or whatever it was) shot has eluded me ever since.

At any rate, I began the search for a backup body and was soon convinced that the F3 was the best choice. This camera has a horizontally travelling, dual-curtain, titanium shutter as opposed to the bladed shutters found on most cameras these days. The dual-curtain shutter is a lot less prone to damage if you inadvertently touch the curtains than the bladed ones are. Also in the running were the Minolta SRT-101 and the Canon F-1N. All three have reputations as tough, no compromise cameras that will come through in rough conditions. At the same time, I wanted a modern, all automatic camera with all the gee-wiz gizmos on board. If I had opted for either the Minolta or the Canon, I'd have had to buy two separate sets of lenses -- one for the AF camera and one for the backup. This seemed silly, so I went with Nikon because the lenses and cameras are interchangeable.

Do I regret that decision?? No. This system has worked out very well for me. I would like to see Nikon engineer some good method for allowing simultaneous AF/MF with conventional AF Nikkor lenses. I also wish they'd release a lens similar to Canon's 35-350; though the Nikkor 75-300 makes astounding images. The Nikkor 24-120 is a truly awesome lens and has become my standard for photographing home construction sites. Previous to buying it, I was forever switching between a 35-135 and a 24-50.

The one thing that has really irritated me about Nikon has been their steadfast refusal to put both mirror lock-up and DOF preview on anything but their pro-level AF cameras. To ask a hobbyist to shell out in excess of a grand just to get these features is ludicrous, especially in view of Canon's feature-packed, mid-priced cameras like the Elan II(e). The rumor is that there's some new blood in management at Nikon and that they're interested in evening this disparity, so keep an eye open for new releases from Nikon with high-end features on mid-range cameras. The price reduction on the N90s is a definite step in the right direction.

After reading Philip's review of the EOS-5, I looked and found that I concurred with his assessment of the EOS finders and screens (I looked at the Elan II and the Rebel-X). For someone like me who needs glasses and can't use contacts, Nikon's finders are a lot easier to use. I haven't had the chance to evaluate Canon's flash system first hand, but given the results shown in that review and given all the flash work I do, I'm glad I don't have to deal with that problem.

There's been a lot of debate about which company makes the best AF. Well, the EOS is definitely smoother in this regard because of the USM lenses. Whether the EOS cameras are more tenacious at locking on is an argument that will probably never be settled. The N90s, N70, F100 and F5 all have very good AF, though the EOS seems faster than the N90s or N70. The AF on the other N-series cameras ranges from okay (N8008s) to awful (N4004). The two new AF-S lenses from Nikon may even the playing field between Nikon and Canon in the AF department. IF Nikon prices the 28-70/2.8 AF-S and 80-200/2.8 AF-S competitively, and IF they make mid-range cameras that'll AF with these lenses, they could give Canon quite a run for their money.

With the lens/camera interchangeability and the awesome flash exposure technology and competent AF on the N90s, Nikon was the ticket for me. Don't misunderstand, though, all the brands have their benefits and shortcomings -- nobody has managed to build the perfect system yet. Everyone has to weigh the benefits and shortcomings in the different cameras, size up what kind of shooting they'll do and make their choice based on that. It all comes down to which feature set best enhances your photography and which set of headaches you can most easily live with.