My dear Deb,
If you want B&W you have to use B&W film; at this point in time, digital camera only give the B&W option as well as any computer software, but they are all interpretation of color in B&W. They are not true B&W.
When you shoot in B&W film, it is light burning a surface compose of salt silver pigment, as oppose to what a program on any digital camera can interpret.
Since you seem to be using Nikon, you could get yourself at a fair price at eBay, some second hand Nikon F model or Nikkormat manual camera. Second get prime lens such as 35mm or 50mm or 135mm (portrait), or you could invest into a 35-135 zoom if your budget is restrictive? or maybe if you have a friend that owns a manual camera, maybe borrow it and give it a try.
Then I would suggest Ilford film (Kodak also makes excellent film), 50ASA for very slow and low grain, or if you feel creative 200 or 400 ASA film, finally, like being real creative use 3200 ASA? now that is VERY fast, so get ready to work into the f16 to f22 with speed in the range of 1/500 to 1/000.
It may sound complicated, but it is not; the big difference, is that you will not see the result for at least 24 to 48 hours before you get your film back from the lab? so bracket your exposures.
I would strongly suggest giving your film to a professional or semi-professional lab, forgetting about those cheap labs such as Wal-Mart or something similar.
I have a lab in my region that charges me $14.00 for the processing of a 36 exposures film, scan and burn unto a CD; it would be a bit more expensive to get a print of each exposure.
Finally enjoy and then you will see one BIG difference between digital B&W and true B&W film.
Let me know how it went, and don?t get discourage if the result are not as you would expect; it takes a bit more time to master B&W as oppose to digital, but then the result are astounding.
Cheers, Francois
P.S. Check th work of Ansel Adams as a starter on the Internet, he was the master of B&W photography.