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Editor's note: This excerpt first appeared in photographer and author Harold Davis' recent Focal Press book, Photographing Flowers: Exploring Macro Photography with Harold Davis.
The closer you...
Agra is a city about which it might justly be said that "there is no there
there". The population is in the millions yet there are hardly any multi-story
buildings. Thus you get the feeling of being in a crummy village that goes on
forever and has inexplicably horrible traffic.
Balanced against Agra's crumminess as a city is the convenience of Agra as a
base for touring Mughal monuments, the most famous of which is the Taj Mahal.
The Taj
Shah Jahan had three wives plus a nice harem of concubines. But his favorite
was 2nd wife Mumtaz Mahal, with whom he had all of his children. Mumtaz died at
age 39 while bearing Shah Jahan's 14th child.
"He intends it shall excell all other," reported Peter Mundy, an employee of
hte English East India Company, "The building goes on with excessive labour and
cost, prosecuted with extraordinary diligence, gold and silver [being] esteemed
common metall, and marble but as ordinarie stone."
Much of the treasure that was part of the Taj Mahal was stolen, along with
Shah Jahan's Peacock Throne and the Koh-i-Nur diamond. The guides will tell you
that these were stolen by the British. In fact, the loot was taken to Persia by
Nadir Shah around 1739.
North (road from Agra back to Delhi)
On the way north back to Delhi, stop first at the Mathura McDonald's, where
you'll find clean restrooms, carefully segregated vegetarian food, no beef, and a
special dining area for drivers (wouldn't want them mixing!).
North of the McDonald's, but south of the main town of Mathura, is the grand
temple being constructed by followers of Bab Jai Gurudeo (
www.jaigurudeo.org). You can't donate money to
the construction if you eat meat, support aggression, or are otherwise unworthy.
All the workers are volunteers. According to the brochure, "If you are a true
seeker of God, you will not be disappointed. ... The Divide Light is going to
spread from [this temple]. The clouds of miseries are thundering and if we do bad
and cruel actions, the world may see a major disaster."
Mathura is the birthplace of Krishna. In the year 1018, the main temple here
was described by Mahmud, an Arab invader, as having taken at least 200 years to
build. His secretary said that it was "beyond description" and made with tons of
gold, silver, and precious stones. The Muslims proceeded to loot the temple, burn
it to the ground, and kill all of the nearby Hindus. In general, the Hindu
defenders were at a disadvantage in most of their conflicts with Muslims. The
Muslims expected that each Hindu killed would get them closer to Heaven whereas
the Hindu religion did not provide any credit for killing. Consequently the
Hindus usually tried to retreat and rebuild their temples in more remote parts of
India.
A bit closer to Delhi is Brindavan, an important pilgrim center packed with
cows, temples, and people bathing at ghats by the River Yamuna.
Hotels
If it didn't cost $20 each time you walked into the monument, it would be
great to stay in one of the hotels within walking distance of the Taj Mahal. The
Welcomgroup Mughal Sheraton is one of the nicest hotels in town. It is a 5-minute
drive to the Taj Mahal parking lot, from which you must then take a rickshaw or a
bus. If you find yourself oppressed by Agra's sprawling ugliness the Sheraton is
a nice retreat with flower gardens, an archery range, and a medium-sized pool.
mughal@welcomgroup.com. No in-room
Ethernet.
