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Mumbai (Bombay)

by Philip Greenspun, 2001


Digital

Mumbai proper offers little for the tourist interested in culture and history. However, if you can stop for even 24 hours on your way to or from India, it is possible to see one of the great World Heritage sites within India: the Elephanta Caves.

Carved into the rocks of a Bombay Harbor island six miles offshore, the caves bear witness to a lot of painful excavation effort and subsequent exquisite artistry.

Elephanta was a Hindu fortress named Gharapuri in the 7th and 8th centuries. The Portugese eventually stumbled upon the island and found a stone elephant (now in Victoria Gardens), hence the modern name.

Digital photo titled india-gateway-vertical You visit Elephanta Island by taking a ferry from the Gateway to India arch. In theory there are "luxury boats" that include guides but you may have to hunt to find one. Boats leave between 9:00 am and 2:15 pm. After a one-hour boat ride, you arrive at a little fishing port. You can take a little train instead of walking 10 minutes along the flat wharf. Unfortunately, the train stops just as the going gets tough. The caves are up, up, up a series of staircases.


Souvenir vendors clog the sides of the narrow stairs. You can allegedly find porters to carry you to the top in a palanquin but we didn't see any.

Now you're ready to go home. There are a bunch of smaller caves on Elephanta but they're not worthwhile for the tourist. If you want to see more caves, visit Kanheri Caves, 42 km from Mumbai in Borivali National Park. The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) and the Government of India tourist office both run tours to Kanheri (and around the city, for that matter, if you're interested in the sights of Mumbai).

Hotels

Guests at the Taj Mahal or Taj Mahal Intercontinental, adjacent to the Gateway of India, can walk from their rooms to the Elephanta Cave ferries in about 5 minutes. http://www.tajhotels.com claims that the rooms are equipped with "Internet connectivity", which in India usually does mean a proper 10baseT DHCP connection for a laptop's network card.


Text and photos copyright 2001 by Philip Greenspun.

Article created 2001

Readers' Comments


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Joe Benavides , June 23, 2006; 04:33 P.M.

Why is the article on Bombay almost only about Elephanta? There's infinite possibility for great street photography and other sights with much more charm. The Jain temple is great (and active), the Red Light district is a must visit (like go through, not visit, but from what I hear, maybe visit as euphemism also applies) there's a massive ghat in Malabar Hill-ish where all you can see is guys doing laundry as far as you can see, and much more. Just is sad to see the Bombay article focus on something so dull.

If you want to see cave temples take the trip to Ellora/Ajanta.


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