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Between Rome and Florence you have probably the densest concentration of
cultural and lifestyle treasures in the world. The regions separating these cites
are Umbria and Toscana. If I were a serious travel writer, I'd give you deep
sections on all of the three-star towns. The light frescoes of the cathedral of
St. Francis in Assisi, my favorite in all of Italy. The medieval atmosphere of
the Tuscan hill towns like San Gimignano. The art treasures of Siena, Florence's
major rival. But I'm not a serious travel writer so all you get are two little
photo exhibits.
San Galgano
Galgano was a knight born to rich parents in 1148 but he renounced the
material world and also the arts of war. He attempted to break his sword against
a rock, but instead the sword was swallowed by the stone, a sign that God
approved of his project. He died a hermit in 1181 and was declared a saint in
1185.
A Cistercian abbey was built near the site of Galgano's hermitage in 1218 in
Gothic style, reflecting the French origins of the monks. The abbey's church now
lies in ruins in the magnificent Tuscan landscape.
Parco dei Mostri
Once the backyard of the Villa Orsini,
this 16th-century sculpture garden was built by the same sculptors who worked on
St. Peter's. Subtlety is not wasted on these monstrosities.
[Practical note: the park is about 90 minutes north of Rome, near the town of
Bomarzo, which has almost nothing to recommend it. I advise that you bring a
picnic from Rome because I remember a particularly bad and expensive restaurant
in Bomarzo. I also vividly remember being chased around the park by an old
caretaker, upset that I was using a tripod. The Cadogan guide notes that the
privately-owned park is run like an "Alabama roadside attraction, complete with
tame deer for your children to pet, an albino peacock, miniature goats, and
plenty of souvenirs. ... It may be the only important monument of the 16th
century that neither the goverment nor anyone else is interested in
preserving."]
Actualy, the Cistercians used a particular and
private architectural style called Half Gothic,
which structuraly was just like the Romanesque
style of the earlier middle ages, but had semi-
pointed arches like Gothic. It's important to
realize the difference, however, in the style of
the Cistercians and the secular bishoprics of
northern France. Half-gothic didn't allow the
huge windows and inconsequencial walls that true
Gothic does; the inside of the churches were
still dark and low. This reflected extreamly
conservative nature of the Cistercians as
compared to any other monastics of the time
period. While after their spiritual leader St.
Bernard of Clairvoix died they did become more
open and architecturaly cosmopolitian, they did
not adopt Gothic architecture.
You gave a conceited title to a poor description of non-representative places in what you call "Between Rome and Florence".
You just forgave the two thousand years of history, art and beauty that Tuscany can express. And again, you did it with very bad shots.
Maurizio, I'm not sure why you think this is not representative of the title and is not between Rome and Florence. Bomarzo is in the province of Viterbo (an area where I grow up) which is in the north of Lazio bordering Tuscany. A little know jewel of a province without the hype (and tourists) of Tuscany and just as rich as Tuscany in beauty and history. The most important etruscan centres where in this province too. It's just that Tuscany took it's name from the etruscans.
I think you totally missed out on the meaning of that park. I have actually been there. Apart from what silly travel guides such as the irreverent, dirt cheap (in any sense) Lonely Planet or any other have to say, Bomarzo Park was the off streamline vision of a protester of the time. While everybody else was being esthetic and formal, he commissioned works that would be able to bring the viewer into a different dimension and have a perspective of things that was far from reality. After centuries, the park still keeps its message intact, proof of the ingenuity of he who conceived the idea behind it. Most of the times what is not understood is labeled dangerous or crazy. Thank goodness it was the case of the latter, otherwise we would not even have a Bomarzo park at all. After all,
Lazio and Tuscany are not rich in canonic art only. If you want to know more about Tuscany you can follow this link to a blog on Tuscany. It is apt to travellers and with good heart (at least it seems so...) Tuscany Travel
Tuscany has become, in recent years, one of the most popular destinations for a nice relaxing holiday. Tuscany is also easy to reach since the main low cost airline do operate flights in the main airports: Florence and Pisa. The Tuscan countryside is really worth visiting, places such as the Chianti region, Siena, Cortona and S. Gimignano just to mention a few, are a necessary stop to really feel the atmosphere of a magic place. There are a few luxury resorts that would really leave a sign but if you are a traveller on a budget these places are accessible to you as well. More modest Tuscany hotels, B&Bs or apartments do give the possibility to all travellers to visit these magnificent places.
I suggest to stay in Tuscany farmhouses, the "agriturismo" offers a fresh alternative, at the italy hotels, for those who want a more rustic holiday. Siena hotels are few but very nice.
Tuscany is a region that can satisfy the widest range of travellers from the youngest who are in search of crowded city life and budget accommodations, to the more mature traveller who appreciates the peace and quite of the rural countryside
I have just returned from my last vacation in Tuscany: I was in Florence and every time I discover the rich cultural suggestions and new seductions. I suggest to visit this online guide to book Florence hotels.
I hope this help.
