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Introduction to Italy

by Philip Greenspun


Italy has always been my favorite country for tourism. It combines artistic treasures, friendly people, a beautiful language, fascinating history, and great food. You could be a tourist here for your whole life and still there would have been something worthwhile up a little country road or behind an obscure church that you hadn't seen.

Sixty million Italians share a peninsula 800 miles long by about 100 miles wide (75% of the size of California). Rome is at about the same latitude as New York City, but the surrounding Mediterranean results in milder winters.

The main problem with Italian tourism is that while you are there trying to soak up medeival atmosphere and Roman history, 60 million Italians are trying to ignore it. You were just enjoying an arch over a narrow medeival street when three of the ubiquitous motorbikes come roaring through, shattering your eardrums. You were trying to imagine how Marcus Aurelius felt as he surveyed the forum when a herd of noisy schoolchildren are herded through on a mandatory trip, oblivious to their guide. If you want to experience Italy as it once was, you have to either go to a town so small they don't have motorbikes (if you find one, let me know) or a place where cars are impractical (Venice and Capri).

The standard tour of Italy starts in Rome with the Vatican and the ancient buildings from the Empire. One then proceeds to Florence to admire the flowers of the Renaissance and finishes up in Venice for the atmosphere and more art. Still, I think my friend Stephen had the best trip to Italy. He went to Vicenza with his wife and lived like an unemployed Italian for a week, mostly sitting in cafes. You'll never see it all so you might as well enjoy the Italian lifestyle.

Merchants in Padua's Piazza Delle Erbe

A pastel view from Florence's Boboli Gardens

Kids playing soccer in the Venetian ghetto. Only a handful of Jews live in Venice and very few live in the old ghetto region.


Article created 1997

Readers' Comments


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Walter A. Aprile , May 12, 1997; 02:42 P.M.

I am convinced (as an Italian) that the beauties of Italy hide in the small cities. As a starter that is not too inconvenient, I'd suggest a tour of the Via Emilia, that is start from Milan (which is convenient for the airport) and then quickly proceed to Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, Modena, Bologna and then seawards, with Ferrara and Ravenna. Just remember to avoid Rimini and Riccione in the summertime, unless your idea of fun include huge sunburnt crowds.

Probably many Americans avoid the smaller cities because they are used to the "small place" = "Jerkwater" equation. Well, this does not work for Italy.

Vicenza is an excellent example of a very small place with glorious architecture. Another very good one is Parma (besides, it would be worth visiting Parma even only for the food).

Claire and Jim Hamilton -- , February 22, 1998; 03:52 P.M.

Surely no trip to Florence or Tuscany anyway could be complete without at least stopping in el campo in Sienna and touring if only briefly Chianti. A must must be San Gimignano.

dario -- , March 10, 1998; 11:55 A.M.

sorry for my english, it's very poor. I'm Italian, from treviso, another small beauty city. people think italy like a museum. in the cities there are people who works and live and culdn't think every time "this is a romanic church, this is a middelage castle". anyway,all of you, come in italy.

anna RADICE , May 29, 1998; 03:51 P.M.

I agree, you can travel to Italia every time and always discover something different . The south is an area that definetly goes underrated. The people are "mano a mano" the traditions perseverent and the landscape is sensual.

I am of italian descent and last year was fortunate to spend two months in the Basilicata region and two in Milan. I get the impression that the north forgets where they origianted, ashamed of their humble beginngs. Il meridione is what Italy is all about, it is what we love and what we go back for.

Robert Connors , July 01, 1999; 11:11 P.M.

Italia is a delight. For those with an interest in art, history, architecture, delicious food, and breathtaking scenery, there is perhaps no other place on earth with a finer offering of all these, and more. Her modern culture reflects the complexity of her history, and, for the most part, her people are fascinating and friendly. Some favorite places that we return to time and again include il Lago di Como, and it's beautiful small towns along the lake shore; the Valle d'Aosta and Monte Bianco; San Gmignano, with its medieval towers; the wondrous art of Firenze, the Abbey of Monte Cassino, and the incomparable Costiera Amalfitano.

If you plan to go, take the time to study the language. E non difficile (it's not difficult) and will make your experience so much richer. l'Italiani appreciate a visitor who speaks a little, unlike the French!

George Gilliland , August 16, 1999; 09:12 A.M.

A quick footnote to seeing Venice properly: From the very beginning, Venice has been organized around it's hundreds of churches, each possessing its own "campo" or square. These campi are like the synapses that link the incredible network of allyways and canals that snake through the city. (The very large number of churchs in this tiny city is a fascinating testimonial to the extremely parochial nature of human beings).

A great way to explore Venice is to make it a goal to visit each and every campo and then to explore each and every canal and street that radiates outward from it. I tried this but ran out of time. . . I don't think you can properly tour Italy without living there full-time for a few years (sigh).

Bill O'Neil , June 10, 2001; 02:48 P.M.

I find myself scouring the isles of specialty food stores for fine prosciutto ham, baby artichokes and fresh mozzarella made from buffalo’s milk. I find myself strangely drawn to people with Italian accents to grill them on their origins while sharing my own tales of their beautiful homeland.

We can't stop thinking about our Italian Journey. We visited Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome, the ruins of Pompeii, and Positano on the Amalfi coast.

Along with the romance of these amazing cities, there is an unavoidable amusement park aspect to them as well. I wondered what these historical places were like fifty years ago before the crowds of tourists engulfed them. What were they like 500 years ago? There were enough historical scraps in these cities to piece together a blueprint of the birthplace of western civilization. Oh, and the food’s good too.

Andrea Matranga , November 26, 2001; 03:12 P.M.

If you want to come to Italy, chances are you won't want to miss Sicily. The island has been succesively conquered by the Punics, the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs, the Normans, the French, the Spanish, and of course Italy. All these cultures have left an imprint that is further made interesting by the way the cultures mingled (christian churches with arabic domes and frescoes for example). If anyone is planning a trip to Sicily feel free to e-mail me and I'll be glad to give you a few pointers.

Frank May , August 21, 2003; 02:55 A.M.

please apologize my bad english.
i read several of your travel reports and think they are amazing. amazing in a meaning that you pretend to have your mind open, to understand other cultures, to accept other values and perspectives - but in fact your reports prove that you are full of prejudices and that in your thoughts only the american way of life is the only acceptable way.
this point of view and the resulting behaviour is the reason why most people either laugh about us-americans or hate them. the world could be a much better place if people like you would open the eyes and the mind and would start to accept that not only the american perspective is correct.
best regards!

Maria Bostenaru , April 08, 2005; 05:31 A.M.


The complex in Pisa, March 2003

There is much more to see around Italy, even as the extended tour you took :)

As I was saying in a "personal journey" I wrote for Science NextWave (see link contributed bellow), it was one of the enjoyments of staying in Northern Italy, to be able to enjoy its rich cultural heritage. From Pavia, which is near Milan, I was able to undertake 1-day trips up to so far as Florence, Ravenna, or Venice. As you were saying: staying up at sunset. If I left Pavia at 8am and returned at 1am in the night next day, even the 4-5 hours of train (trains in Italy are often delayed) to, and another 4-5 back, were to be managed.

In Northern Italy I find there are the following cities one shall visit, additionally to those you reported about: Ravenna (for its mosaics), Mantova (for a renowned church), Genova (for its acquarium, and apart of it a nice seaside, with a Renzo Piano modern architecture work I like since I was 1st year architecture student) and Pisa (see photo). Genova and Pisa I could connect and see in just one day, as the highlights are placed connected. Also in Milano there are things to be seen, among others a church with a Leonardo painting, and the Vittorio Emmanuele galleries, a perfect example of shopping arcades, actually much more interesting than the dome near which they are, at least for an architect.

About Pisa so much, that for the tower one had to buy the ticket few hours in advance, as the number of visitors allowed on it is limited.

Kah Kit Yoong , June 14, 2005; 03:43 P.M.

I am having a wonderful time in Italy as an Australian on holidays. What really strikes me are the vast differences between the regions despite being such a small country. Having taken heaps of trains all over the country, it is quite easy to recognize the region by looking outside the window. Alas my time is almost up here. However I have been able to visit every region except Sicily and Apulia. I started out with an organized 2 week bus tour to get an overview. I followed this with a 5 week language course and believe this has really enhanced the experience as it is possible to gain some fluency after 3 weeks. Sonce then I have just been travelling around and letting the culture seep in. Of course Roma, Firenze and Venezia are big attractions. You could spend months in Roma in particular. However my advise is to get out to the small towns which I found much more interesting. My highlights in Tuscany were Siena and San Gimignano. If possible a week in Siena and a weekend in San G. The cathedral & piazza del Campo of Siena are possibly Italia's best. Trips out of these towns allow you to explore the most beautiful countryside in Italy, the Val d'Orcia & Val D'Elsa. Pienza which can be done as a daytrip from Siena should not be missed. In Emilia I ate my way through Bologna, the gastronomic capital. It is also very photogenic having medieval towers and is apparently one of the most porticoed cities in the world. Parma was also a highlight of Emilia-Romagna. It has wonderful architecture, atmosphere, a lovely park and in my opinion the most beautiful baptistry in Italia. My favourite seaside town in Italy was Vernazza part of the Cinque Terre, 5 towns dramatically sited linked by walking paths in Liguria. It gets my vote for the best kept secret in Italy. Vicenza has already been mentioned; I think it is quite possibly the most elegant city in Italia.

Clau Giagno , September 11, 2006; 05:19 A.M.

Hallo to all!!! I have been in Italy for 3 weeks and I travel around the peninsula: really great country!! For my accommodation in Italy I visited the Italy Hotels web site... If you'll visit Florence I suggest to visit Florence accommodations... Have a good time!!!

Amanda Weir , December 04, 2007; 12:55 P.M.

Today Rome has become one of the easiest, cheapest and quickest destinations in Europe to be reached thanks to the always more numerous low-cost airlines. Everybody is aware of the beauty of Rome, its attractions are famous worldwide although for those who never thought of Rome as a possible destination, here we are, what a nice surprise can they find once in Rome! We also have an efficient train station ? Stazione Termini - from those who decide to start their tour of Italy somewhere else. For Italy hotels and Rome hotels i suggest to visit these two guides. Remember: Rome cannot be missed out!


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