Kyoto

Of the pebble Zen garden first pictured; this garden is worldly famous, but when you first encounter it you might not understand why. There are 15 stones in the garden, but one can only see 14 from any given point of observation. When one stone disappears, the 15th stone which you could previously not see begins to come into view. It is amazing to think that someone conceived this concept in their head and then laid it out on earth.

As Philip mentioned eastern Kyoto contains a large number of temples and their associated gardens and it is probably the best place to go if you have limited time.

I have just come back from 10 days in Kyoto (October 16-25, 2000). Kyoto is an easy place to get around as the city is planned in a grid like structure and is quite flat apart from the surrounding hills. Walking around Kyoto should be considered as an option as walking through the various streets provides an insight into how Kyotans live, gives great examples of some of the old wooden houses plus provides numerous small shops that the tourist would normally not see. For those who want to wander further afield or visit many sites it is possible to hire a pushbike for about $10.00 a day with a deposit of course.

The Miyako (found in eastern Kyoto) and the New Miyako (slightly south from the Kyoto Station) run a service bus at no cost (as long as you are a renting one of their rooms in either of the hotels) between their hotels which leaves every 40 minutes during the week days. This can be used to great advantage to save time and money from other forms of transport.

I was told that to see the autumn colours at their best in Kyoto the best bet is to plan a visit during early to mid November onwards rather than in mid/late October.

On October 22nd each year (or closest Sunday from my understanding) there is the Jidai Matsuri Festival which starts from the Old Imperial Palace (at noon) and winds its way through to an eastern Kyoto temple (sorry cannot remember its name). The procession contains about 2,000 people dressed in period costume of the times while Kyoto was the Capital of Japan of about 1200 years. If you want to see traditional clothing this is the place to go but be prepared to get a spot at least 2 hours earlier and I would suggest to find a spot within the Old Imperial Palace Gardens to help out with the photo backgrounds.

As Philip mentioned it is extremely safe even at night time. Another must place is the Gion district where if you are lucky you will see Geishas walking through the streets while on their way to entertain their clients (especially Friday and Saturday nights).

Kyoto is a great spot to soak in a huge amount and range of temples, shrines, culture and architecture as well as having many photo opportunities. There is so much to talk about so always feel free to send me an email if yuo have any questions.

Rob Birtles robbirtles@yahoo.com

I was in Kyoto recently, and found a little known photographic gem. It's in Arashi-yama, just at the west edge of Kyoto. It's the Iwata-yama monkey research station located in the mountains overlooking Kyoto.

Not only can you find great mountain scenery, but you will be literally surrounded by wild monkeys. I've seen a few Japanese pro photographers up there. You don't even need to lug a huge telephoto around, I took most of my animal shots with a 105mm, and found it almost too long.

Just a few quick points about getting around in Kyoto. The bus service is great and cheap. If you are lucky enough to have a JR rail pass (something I highly recommend), don't miss out on travelling to nearby Nara and Himeji.

-Harvey

For the past two years, I spent my annual vacations in Japan. I based myself in Kyoto in Nov 1999, and Tokyo in Oct/Nov 2000. Based on my experience, I would recommend a slower pace for photographers, for there are so many photo opportunities. Spending less than one week in the Kyoto vicinity is simply too hectic a pace.

For one week in Japan, I definitely recommend staying in Kyoto only. Better yet, stay in a hotel nearby the Kyoto railway station. The reason is logistics: every tourist destination in the Kansai area is within easy reach of Kyoto by train. Nara and Osaka is only half an hour train ride, and very cheap (about 500 yen. this is pretty cheap comparing to Osaka subway. Two subway stops in Osaka cost me 250 yen already.) For more distant destination like Himeiji, you should investigate the Kansai rail pass available to foreign passport holders. (http://www.westjr.co.jp/english/english/travel/con04/kansai.html) The one day pass cost less than the trip to Himeiji. For traveling within Kyoto, the public bus and subway system is very easy to use. The Kyoto city bus terminal is located right outside the station. And there is a subway stop at the railway station.

Worried about getting lost in Kyoto? Well, nearly all buses terminate at the railway station. And the buses announces the next bus stop in English. And distances is minimal. A lot of attractions (including downtown) are within one hour walk.

During my stay in Kyoto, the most memorable places I visted (amongst others):

1) The hiking trip from Takao to Arashiyama. Two hour journey on foot downhill, but took the whole day. Takao is considered the premium place to watch autumn leaves, and the autumn foliage in Kyoto is spectacular (I grew up in Canada, and I must say Kyoto's autumn foliage rivals that in Canada, in a different way. The autumn foliage in Kyoto peaks in the third and fourth week of November). It wasn't just the autumn leaves, it was the atmosphere. This is the place I definitely will re-visit. It takes one hour bus ride from the railway station, on winding hilly backcountry roads. Kyoto's TIC, located under Kyoto Tower hotel right across the railway station, has details and maps of this hiking route.

2) Gion. I was there during a Geisha festival. Lots of Geisha, many rolls of films.

3) KyomizuDera and Sannensaka area. Very relaxing, can take a whole day.

4) Himeiji Castle. At least half a day. Much more impressive than Osaka Castle.

5) The Aquarium in Osaka. Very impressive.

6) Osaka's Dotombori area (Downtown) at night.

I didn't visit Nara. There wasn't enough time.

If you have another week, and want to travel to the countryside, do consider Takayama and vicinity. I was there in Oct/Nov 2000 (But from Tokyo). Now, a long distance bus service travels directly from Kyoto to Takayama, costing half as much as the train, and just as fast. Takayama is located in the mountainous region. The autumn foliage peaks at different time, depending on elevation.

The attractions in Takayama region:

1) Takayama itself. The autumn foliage peaks in early November.

2) Shirakawa-go. two hour bus ride(approx 50km) from Takayama railway station. Consider spending a whole day here, if not more. It is a small village, half an hour walk from one end to another. But there is so much to see. I spent 3 rolls of 135, and 4 rolls of 6X6 here. All in one day. And I don't consider myself a frivolous shooter.

3) Hirayu Onsen. One hour bus ride from Takayama railway station. This is a hot spring area. Hot water gushes out from the ground and rocks everywhere. Cheaper hot spring is simply a small pool dammed by rocks in the forest, with hot spring water continously gushing out from the rocks. These are further away from the bus station, approx 20 min walk uphill. The water was really hot. I could only withstand 5 minutes at a time, even when the outside temprature approaches freezing point. And it cost only 400yen. Or you can bathe/stay in one of the numerous hot sping hotels. Lots of photo opportunities.

4) The Alps. But not as spectacular as the Canadian Rockies.

5) Tsumago/Magome. I didn't go there, again not enough time.

As a traveller, I enjoyed these two places more than Tokyo.

The Shrine referred to by Robert Bittles (Jidai Matsuri) is the Heian Jingu Shrine. P.S. Matsuri Fesitval is redundant.

As a resident of Japan for over three years now, and a resident of the Kansai area (North Osaka) for over two years, I thought that I might be able to add a couple of hopefully useful comments.

The best times of the year for photography: August/September for clear blue skies and puffy white clouds. Drawbacks: think of North or South Carolina in the summertime. I have found that it really makes a big difference in your photo composition what kind of skies you are able to shoot in, especially when photographing buildings (temples/shrines/castles).

The skies in the spring time are often overcast and do not give the best lighting effects. If you visit in early April, however, you can catch "sakura hanami" or the cherry blossom time. Around this time both cherry and plum trees are in bloom (in the Kansai area) and make for wonderful photo opportunities. Beware, however, it is also a big travel time for the locals, so expect crowds.

Fall - I don't remember the exact timing, mid to late October, I think, but there are good opportunities for fall foliage photo shoots (with the usual warning regarding the crowds). Kyoto, of course is good this time of the year, and really all year for photo opportunities. Fall is an especially good time to visit Mino waterfall, near where I live. Many maple trees line a path of about 2.5 km from Hankyu Mino railway station to the waterfall. At the waterfall, it is possible to occasionally have a close encounter with wild monkeys looking to steal your food.

Winter - We just don't get much snow on this side of Japan, so winter is usually just cold and dreary. I was hoping for some snow this year to photograph temples in Kyoto in the snow. Unfortunately, the one time it did snow, we were back in the US.

Comments about some of the photos shown: As usual, Philip Greenspun has shared with us some wonderful photographs. Regarding the views of Ryoan-ji, the photos of the end view surprise me. I have only visited Ryoan-ji once, but I don't remember visitors being allowed access to an area which would permit the perspective shown here (shooting from the narrow end of the rectangular garden, lengthwise). I shot several photos from the long side, but I will have to make a return trip and see if such an end view is possible. -- update: as someone recently pointed out to me, the photo I referred to is not of Ryoanji, but of another temple, Daitoku-ji. Another mystery solved.

The first of the "Snapshots" is (as listed) a small section of one side of a door at the Nishi (West) Honganji in Kyoto (about 400 meters or so north of Kyoto station). I have taken an almost identical photo of the door myself, so it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling to see it here. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about this temple is the fact that it is actually very un-remarkable - with the notable exception of this door. The rest of Nishi Honganji seems to me to be a modern Buddhist facility. As I recall reading somewhere, it is actually of 16th Chinese design, which explains its rather flamboyant appearance. If you have time, seeing the door is worth the trip. -- update: I also recall that the last time I visited (last year?) the main temple buildings were still undergoing renovation and one could not visit the temple interiors.

Kyoto -

East Kyoto: Kyomizu dera (Beware of the false geishas! There is a thriving trade in the area where girls can pay to be made up like geishas and go out to the temples and have their pictures taken in costume). Well, just don't tell your friends back home that they might not be real.

Sanjusangendo (around 1000 different wooden Buddhist statues, but NO photography allowed inside the temple).

Gion district (the traditional geisha area). You'll have to be pretty lucky to catch a glimpse of a real geisha, however, unless you visit one of the geisha houses. I think you can then expect to pay an arm and a leg for your entertainment. -- update: I just read an newspaper article here recently about geisha that reported that unless you know somebody with connections, you can forget about any chance of going to a geisha house. Apparently it is impossible for "real people" to visit. It sounds like trying to get into a Sumo Basho. Northeast: One suggested walking tour is from Ginkaku-ji, down the "Philosopher's Path" and ending at Nanzen-ji (apparently there really was once a philosopher, well, a faculty member at any rate, and he really did walk along this path).

One thing you learn about Japanese, especially after learning some of the language, is how pragmatic the people were when naming things. It takes some of the romance out of things. E.g. Kyoto, means Capitol city, Tokyo, means East Capital. Ochanoyumizu (in Tokyo) means Tea Ceremony Water (apparently a good place to make tea). Well, the list goes on, and I am by no means an expert.

Ginkaku-ji (The silver pavilion. One of the Ashikaga shoguns originally intended to gild the pavilion in silver but never got around to it - as I recall because civil war broke out, again). It has a very nice rock/sand garden, and some other features. Oh, I just realized that a picture from Ginkaku-ji is included on the page.

Nanzen-ji (Specifically Sanmon, or the 3rd gate. You can pay to walk up to the 2nd floor of this gate. This is quite unusual. It gives a nice view of Norther Kyoto, and there are some historical artifacts on display - NO photographs of the displays are allowed).

Central Kyoto: Higashi (East) Honganji - Nice Buddhist temple buildings. Nishi (West) Honganji - Chinese gate North-Central: Nijo Castle: Not a traditional Japanese castle, go to Himeji for that, but more of a palace. Built by the first Tokugawa shoguns as a subtle (not so subtle?) message to the Emperor to stay out of politics. Nijo features beautiful painted door panels and a "nightingale" floor that squeaks when you walk on it (please leave your shoes at the door, of course) to warn the sleeping shogun of intruders. No indoor photography is allowed, but you can photograph the exteriors and the gardens. The Old Imperial Palace: you will need to get permission ahead of time to visit. This can usually be obtained the same day (apply in the morning and join the afternoon tour). You may or may not be allowed photographs. Officially, all of the information leading up to my visit said no photos were allowed. When we were on the tour, however, the tour guide said it was OK.

Northwest Kyoto: Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion, which is actually gilded in gold leaf.) Ryoan-ji (famous Zen rock garden). Ninna-ji (Contains replicas of the 88 temples of Shikoku - it is a good last part of a walking tour combining Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji, and Ninna-ji).

Nara: If you have the time, it is well worth the visit, especially if you like deer. Tame deer wander freely throughout Nara where they are protected. Quite a number of small stands sell deer cookies so that tourists can feed the deer.

Todai-ji: The largest wooding structure in the world (according to them) containing a large bronze Buddha, and several other interesting statues. The truly adventurous can see if they are prepared to enter Nirvana by passing through a small hole in one of the temples support pillars, purportedly the same size as the entrance to the divine other world.

Kaisuga Taisha: Lanterns, lanterns and more lanterns. If you like Japanese stone lanterns, many of the walking paths (especially around Kaisuga Taisha) are lined with stone lanterns. At Kaisuga Taisha, there are also brass lanterns.

Himeji Castle: from Kyoto or Osaka, the fastest way is by Shinkansen but you can save a lot of money (if you do not have a JR Rail Pass) by taking a JR express train. The travel time by Shinkansen is about 30 min from Shin Osaka and about 60 minutes by the express. Himeiji Castle is the original castle from the late 1500's (not a modern reconstruction) and really a must see. If you have time, also stop by the nearby Himeji Castle gardens. For a view of Himeji Castle, I have added one photo to my photo.net gallery: http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=178775

If you get a chance to visit Japan, by all means do so. Of course, for a real change of perspective, you cannot beat living in another country for a good stretch of time. You really do begin to see the world in a new way.

I visited Kyoto the year before last in September missing the cherry blossoms and the fall foliage unfortuntely. I did however manage to get off over 600 pictures a day while i was there. I recommend the place i stayed called Ryokan Nishiyama. Our wireless internet connection actually came through the floors so we did have internet access somehow in the room which was nice. Well one 2 foot spot in the room anyway. http://www.ryokan-kyoto.com/ The Ryokan was on a quiet street with good access to the town.

When going to the Gion district we waited outside a Geisha house for an hour or more hoping to spot the girls leaving or going. Finally when one was walking down the street i felt so bad for her trying to duck all the "paparazzi" i failed to take a picture. I just walked away and we went on a search for a ramen shop. Luckily the next day on the Philosphers Walk i spotted two girls dressed up and asked to take their picture. They were very kind.

Also after Ramen we caught a show in the geisha district which i was picked to sit in on the tea ceremony. Even though 100 people sat in the room staring at me for 20 minutes it was worth the experience. I would defintely go to a tea ceremony while in Kyoto.

Overall the trip was priceless, anyone who visits.. pace yourself. Theres lots to see.