What to look for while roaming the country of ever-steaming trains, ever-singing Bards
and never-muted nationalists, country of wide horizons and even wider place names: Wales Medieval Castles
are undoubtedly among the greatest of Welsh attractions. They have been photographed from
all conceivable angles at all lighting conditions, and you are not likely to come up with
a strikingly novel image. Neither this, nor the fact that the national pride of Wales was
built by an English King (Edward I.) should put you off. The castles are just too
omnipresent and too majestic to be ignored. What's more, the most beautiful ones are
conveniently located along the railway system.
If you have time to see only a few of them, then Conwy Castle must be on the top
of the list. It is easily accessible by train on the Chester - Holyhead line (actually,
the trains stop just next to the castle). Several B&B as well as a Youth Hostel in the
town make it easy to stay overnight and take advantage of the early morning/late evening
light in the harbor or night floodlighting of the castle and the suspension bridge. The
Conwy town with its medieval fortification and the harbor with “The smallest house in
Great Britain“ are also worth exploring.
After a few more stops westwards from Conwy, the train reaches Bangor, a university
town and a good base to survey the north-west coast. The Penrhyn Castle, located 1
or 2 miles from Bangor, does not belong to the large family of Edwardian castles, but its
ivy-covered walls exposed to the evening light are very photogenic anyway. It is a
strenuous walk along a busy road from the town; taking a bus or taxi is a better idea.
Towering over the Harlech village and located next to a train stop, the remarkable
structure of Harlech Castle, a World Heritage site, is, again, unavoidable. Many
campsites and caravan parks are available in the village, and if weather permits, an early
morning walk along the sandy beach nearby provides a myriad of photo-temptations.
The ruins of Aberystwyth Castle on the central coast of Wales may look a bit
pathetic compared with its majestic cousins of the north, but good evening light makes all
the difference. Aberystwyth is a picturesque university town easily accessible by train
offering many other architectural targets to aim a lens at: the Cathedral and Wales
University are within a stone-throw from the castle ruins. At nice weather, take the Cliff
Railway to the top of Constitution Hill to enjoy a nice view over the Cardigan Bay or take
a look through Camera Obscura. The Vale of Rheidol Railway starts its 12-mile journey to
Devil’s Bridge at Aberystwyth train station.
For other information, see: http://www.castlewales.com/home.html
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Portmeirion
As if in contrast to the cold stones of the castles, the shining walls and glittering
roofs of Mediterranean-like architecture are concentrated in the little village of
Portmeirion. Chantry, gloriette, colonnade, pantheon.... buildings designed by Sir Clough
William-Ellis on a little peninsula evoke an atmosphere closer to a spa-resort rather than
cold Atlantic coast. At nice weather, that is.
Portmeirion is reachable by train; get off at Minffordd from where public signs will guide
you safely to the village (1.5 miles). From the Minffordd train station, you can get on
the famous Ffestiniog Railway train which will take you through the beautiful scenery of
Snowdonia up to the slate quarries of Blaneau Ffestiniog.
For other information, see: http://www.portmeirion-village.com |
To perceive Wales through other senses than just your camera, going around by train and
tenting in the mountains of Snowdonia is a good decision. Take a ride on one of the famous
narrow-gauge steam railways, which gives you a chance to take a slow look at the
country, meet interesting people, and laugh at drenched train-spotters at the railway
stations (the last one is not to be done too loudly).The Vale of Rheidol
steam-train ride is an hour-long journey through scenic countryside, which makes an
excellent half-day trip from Aberystwyth. It winds up at Devil’s Bridge, where three
bridges span a spectacular waterfall in a deep canyon.Already mentioned Ffestiniog
Railway runs between Porthmadog and Blaneau Ffestiniog. The fare is included in the
“Explore Wales Flexipass” (see bellow).For other information, see: http://www.festrail.co.uk
Snowdonia National Park
Located around the highest mountain of Wales, the Snowdonia NP offers a
plethora of photo-opportunities, including landscape, fauna, flora or even sports (during
the railway races). Reaching the top of Snowdon is not reserved to the physically
determined; since 1896, a narrow-gauge railway has been whisking visitors from Llanberis,
sweat-free, right up to the summit café, pub and post office. As a consequence, the
summit can get very crowded (and it does during the summer months and Bank holidays).
Walking possibilities are unlimited, weather permitting, and wild camping is allowed from
a certain altitude (around 1000 feet, I believe); if you obey the rules, however, the
wardens do tolerate small tents bellow this point.
Be prepared. Although not exactly impressive in terms of height, Snowdonia are real
mountains with all the wiles following sudden weather changes.
For other information, see: http://www.star-attractions.co.uk
Rainy day alternatives
With annual rainfall of up to two feet in some areas, water in
any form needs to be counted with when preparing an itinerary to North Wales. Here are
some options that can be done at bad weather:
Visiting Eisteddfodt, an annual assembly of Welsh Bards dating from the 12.
century, gives you a great chance to see the authentic Welsh - dressed in their alluring
national costumes and performing their traditional singing and dancing.
Eisteddfod festivals take place throughout the country during the summer months. The most
famous one is held in Llongollen - a competition attracting dance groups and bands from
all over the world. Another big one is the Royal National Eisteddfodd of Wales held in
early August in South Wales and North Wales in turns.
For other information, see: http://www.eisteddfod.org.uk/english/index.html
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While waiting for the weather to clear up before setting off to the top of
Mt. Snowdon, you can pay a short visit to The Welsh Slate Museum in Llanberis
located on the site of the old Dinorwic Quarry. Many still-life settings full of rusted
mining machinery and slate plates are to be explored with a camera.
For other information, see: http://www.nmgw.ac.uk/wsm/index.en.shtml |
Visit any other from the many Welsh museums and galleries.
For other information, see: http://www.nmgw.ac.uk
To avoid
Unless you have some bizarre reason to take pictures of vacationers from
North England, desperately exposing their chalk-white bodies to every single shaft of
light that makes it through the thick baldachin of clouds, the holiday resorts skirting
the north coast are best avoided.
Facts for the visitors
When to go
All seasons have loads to offer but try to avoid coming during English Bank Holidays.
Spring and fall are the best times if you want to avoid the July and August crowds.
Getting There & Away
Wales is easily accessible from all around the world. The most sensible way is to fly to
an English international airport (London or Manchester) and continue from there. Many
English and Welsh cities are connected by a number of coach/train links. It takes about
two hours by train to get from London to Cardiff or from Manchester to Conwy.
Long-distance buses are the cheapest way of getting to Wales from England. Renting a car
at the airport and driving west will take about 3 hours for the respective journeys.
Getting Around
Driving your own car is the most flexible way to explore Wales; only snow and ice
can slow down, or block, your progress through higher elevations. Wales drives on the
left; speed limits are 30 in built-up areas, 70mph on motorways and 60mph on dual
carriageways. Car rental costs from around L130 per week with unlimited mileage.
For those considering traveling by train, The Freedom of Wales Flexi Pass offers
an economic way to get around. Apart from traveling cheaper, it also entitles you to some
discounts at other attractions. The North Wales version (North and Mid Wales Flexi Rover)
covers even the famous journey from Portmadog to Ffestiniog on a steam rail.
For other information, see: http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/passes/freedom_wales_flexi_pass.htm
To look up your train connection, click here: http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/planmyjourney/
The long-distance coach services run by National Express duplicate many
intercity rail routes, often at half the price or less. The frequency of services is often
comparable to rail, and in some instances the difference in journey time is minimal.
Coaches are comfortable, some with drinks and sandwiches available on board.
http://www.nationalexpress.co.uk
You can get by using train or public transport services. Timetables are not
exactly dense (actually, rather transparent on Sundays), but distances are short and
careful planning of train-bus-walk combination will take you to most of Welsh places of
interest.
Hitchhike
Having successfully hitchhiked in many European countries, Canada and even Japan, Wales
was the first place where my thumb was left unnoticed. I must have looked too English for
the Welsh locals (or too Welsh for English vacationers).
Accommodation
Wales lives from tourism and you should not have troubles finding a bed in a variety of
dormitories. Hotels are pricey, but a reasonable place in Guest houses and Bread &
Breakfasts will cost around L18 a head. Book in advance in the peak season. Several Youth
Hostels and Campsites are run throughout the country (www.yha.org.uk). Camping rough is tolerated in National Parks if you
show respect to the nature.
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