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Editor's note: This excerpt first appeared in photographer and author Harold Davis' recent Focal Press book, Photographing Flowers: Exploring Macro Photography with Harold Davis.
The closer you...
The cow sign was moved to the trunk to avoid any further difficulties if we
should be pulled over for a traffic violation. The small road where we found the
sign eventually crashed into Interstate 5 which we took until we could escape to
State Highway 132. This was also a small road but it wasn't as empty as the one
we had recently abandoned because it headed through a few small towns. There was
another interesting sign we saw right before a little shopping area. It read:
SLOW
300 FT
CHERRIES
I should have pulled over and taken some pictures. I've never seen a 300 foot
cherry and I'm not surprised they're slow.
I hate to admit it, but California is an extremely beautiful state. As we got
closer to Yosemite the mountains became taller and more lush. We passed about
five deep blue, glacier fed lakes stopping every once and a while to absorb the
view. When we finally got to Yosemite there was a toll booth, but, apparently,
they stop manning it after about 6:00 PM. We tooled right into the park for
free.
One of the first sights you see as you drive in is Bridalveil Falls - a
waterfall that flows over a 600 foot cliff. I found a place to stop the car and
we hiked through the woods. After climbing a series of boulders and rocks we made
it to the crystal pool at the base of the falls
and looked straight up to see foaming white water
barreling over granite cliff below an azure-blue sky. A mist sprayed out from the
falls and created a bright multi-colored rainbow. When I moved to the edge of the
boulder we were standing on, the rainbow's arc grew and seemed to end right at my
feet.
"The End of the Rainbow!" I thought, "Where's my pot of gold? I've been ripped
off!"
Slightly put off, I peered past the tips of the towering, green trees
surrounding me and again looked toward the top of the falls. Mist from the
waterfall fell lightly on my face as the sounds of crashing water filled my ears.
I looked back at the sharp colors of the rainbow and realized I hadn't been
ripped off at all.
I just misunderstood.
Obviously the camping arrangements inside Yosemite weren't designed with people
like Kenny and me in mind. You have to reserve a spot a few weeks in advance and
they probably want you to pay for it. Not having a reservation or money (yeah, I
had a job but I still had to buy books for my next semester of school)
we drove just outside the park and saw a little highway
turnout right next to this huge roaring river. We hadn't planned on doing any
camping when we left Pasadena - other than counting on being back in Pasadena by
Tuesday morning for work we hadn't planned the trip at all - but we were lucky
enough to have thrown a tent in the trunk. However, we weren't lucky enough to
have packed hiking boots - the closest thing I had were worn down tennis shoes.
Kenny was less fortunate, all he brought were boat shoes. Any anxiety over our
footwear quickly melted away as we pitched our tent and the sound of the river
lulled us to sleep.
The next morning my talking Mickey Mouse watch went off to wake us up:
"RRRIIING-Ha, ha! it's 5:01! See ya'! RRRIIIING-Oh, boy! It's one past five!
RRRIIING." I pressed Mickey's fingers together to shut him up. I'm not sure why,
but a cheerful voice that early in the morning makes you want to kill things -
postal worker style.
We got up that early because we were starving college students and we wanted
to try and get inside the park before they manned the toll booths -
it worked and we got into the park free for a
second day in a row. We found a place to park, ate breakfast, and decided to take
the trail that goes to the top of Half Dome, a granite peak that gives a 360
degree, panoramic view of the Yosemite Valley.
We weren't really sure where the trail started so we asked this man who was
walking with his son and his nephew. He said they were going that way so we could
just follow them. His name was Chris, he was fairly young (around thirty), used
to live in Texas, and had been to the park over a hundred times. We walked the
whole trail with him and it was like having our own personal tour guide. He knew
all the trails, the names of everything, where you could swim (the water was too
high when we were there), and had a pump with a filter so we could drink straight
out of the mountain streams. We talked for a while and after I told him I was
from Dallas and Kenny was from Austin he said, "Oh, are you guys Aggies?"
"Yeah, thanks for not guessing Longhorn." (For you non-Texans, the Longhorns
are Texas A&M's bitter
archrival)
It's an 8.2 mile hike to the top of Half Dome but it doesn't seem nearly that
long because
behind every corner is
another breathtaking view. At one point we had to walk up stairs that were carved
into the rock next to Vernal Falls . The falls are so huge that the spray rises
up and covers you the entire way. By the time I got to the top I was soaked from
head to toe - cold and shivering - and it felt great. The five of us hiked on
further to another giant waterfall that was upstream from Vernal Falls.
The path didn't go as close to this waterfall (Nevada
Falls) but there was a great side view of it. The frothing river shot out from
the top of the grey wall and conjured up images of a thousand of white stallions
stampeding over the edge.
We trudged on in a battle against gravity and the hot sun for five hours until we
neared the top of the mountain. The soil and vegetation disappeared completely as
if it were afraid to be so high up and we were suddenly standing on nothing but
pure granite. We still weren't at the top though. At the end of the huge rock
were standing on another huge rock, shaped like a half dome, jutted up another
400 feet or so into the sky. Half Dome's sides are a smooth, glassy granite that
go up at a 45 to 50 degree angle (which is much steeper than it sounds). Two
steel cables, held in place by pairs of iron rods every six to eight feet, hang
from the top of the dome.
At the base of each pair
of iron posts is an old wooden 2X4 to help give you a good foothold.
The cables didn't look particularly safe but I really wanted to try the climb.
I needed to be on top of the rock - I was being drawn to it the same way Richard
Dreyfuss's character was drawn to Devil's Tower in Close Encounter's of the
Third Kind. I asked Chris if I'd have any problem making it up with the
shoes I had on. He said "You can make it, just hold onto the rope and don't look
down."
My shoes were way too slick on the granite to get much use out of them. I had
to pull with my arms and push off from each 2X4 using my momentum to help carry
me to the next plank.
It took about thirty
very tiring minutes to get to the top. When I finally got there I immediately
went straight to the highest point on the rock. The view was wonderously gorgeous
- I felt as if I was litterally on top of the world. The only word that even
comes close to describing it is "majestic." I could see the entire valley from
the snow capped mountains to the lush green valley floor. There were at least
four huge waterfalls in sight including Yosemite Falls which is the second
biggest waterfall in the world. It is something that can't be described with just
words. Everyone should see this view before they die - even if they already have
a cow sign.
I had walked all over the rock amazed by the panorama for about fifteen
minutes when I saw a little furry, prairie-dog looking creature.
I was really pissed off. I huffed and puffed my way up
the side the rock for twenty minutes using cables and 2X4's and there was a
little rodent up here already sitting on the rock like he owned it.
I pointed at it and asked, "What the Hell is that?" to no one in
particular.
Another hiker spoke up, "It's a marmot."
I looked at the hiker and asked another question, "How'd it get up here?"
The hiker just shrugged. I looked back at the marmot. The marmot calmly looked
at me, looked away and then moved behind a rock.
When the rest of my group got to the top we
went to another side of the dome and had lunch. Across the valley gorge at
Glacier Point were some of Chris's friends. Because it was the Fourth of July, he
folded out an American flag so his friends across the gorge could take a picture
of it. I found it very fitting considering the holiday because I'd like to
believe that most people still think of the romantic image of the American West
when they think of our country and not of unsatiable commercialism or a nation
armed to the teeth.
The top of Half Dome is 4700 feet above the valley floor. I had to
look over the edge. There is a place near the high point of the dome where the
more daring hiker can crawl through a hole in the rocks and then scoot out on his
belly like a lizard to look straight down to the bottom of the valley. I did this
and when my eyes reached over the cliff I peered down forty seven hundred feet -
almost a mile - straight down. I was at first amazed and then frightened. Amazed
at the magnificent sight and frightened of how little it would take for me to
kill myself. I cringed back from the edge and took a deep breath. As I laid there
I looked over to my right. The marmot was back again, about ten feet away,
standing on the very edge of the cliff and staring at me. He seemed to be looking
at me as if to say:
You wimp. How could you climb all the way up here and be frightened
now. You got here because you wanted to be here. When you're climbing, on your
way to the top, you shouldn't look down because you have to concentrate all your
energy on moving up. There will be forces trying to pull you down in any
situation. When you're rock climbing the force happens to be gravity. There will
always be forces working against you when you try to ascend anything. Your
volition must be committed to pulling you up. What's below you shouldn't concern
you then.
Of course, when you're on the way up you should have a safety to catch you
when the uncontrollable happens:
The rock under your foot can break loose.
You may get cancer.
Your mother will die.
Make sure you've got a rope when you're climbing in case that rock breaks
loose. Make sure you experience as much as you can while you're healthy so that
when you're dying you won't feel you missed your chance at life. Make sure you
stay close to your parents so you'll have memories of them when they're gone.
But now that you've gone as high as you can go you might as well look around.
It's true, it's a long way down if you were to fall from here but, at least when
you fell, you fell from the top. So go ahead and look over the edge - you might
get cancer one day.
The marmot took a glance over the side and then walked back behind a rock. I
scooted back over the edge and looked down forty seven hundred feet to the valley
floor. Every instinct in my body told me to move back to safety but, the longer I
stared past the staggering distance to the valley floor, the longer I laid there
without falling, and the more I was able to trust that I wouldn't fall. As I felt
the tension and fear leave my body I let out a relaxing sigh - and made a mental
note to write my mother.
We climbed back off the dome and hiked the 8.2 miles back to the car. Kenny and I
said good-bye to Chris, his son and his nephew and left on a highway that headed
east through Toulomne Meadows in the northern part of the park.
Once we got on the east side of the park we started heading south past the
Mammoth Mountain ski resorts. As the sun went down we came up on a lake with cars
lining both sides of the highway. We figured there must be something going on so
we stopped too. We put out a blanket and invited three girls from the San
Bernadino Valley who parked behind us to share it. In a few minutes fireworks
from a Fourth of July celebration lit up the sky and seemed to dance with the
full moon.
 America: Home of the Free.
After the fireworks ended we continued south to Bishop, California. We badly
needed a place to stay because it was almost midnight and we had been up since
5:00 AM.
When we rolled into
town we passed a nice Best Western and a Holiday Inn but that wasn't what we were
looking for. A little bit further down the road was an old neon sign that flashed
the name; "Thunderbird Motel." Our search was over. You can stay in a Holiday Inn
or a Best Western in just about any city in America but only in Bishop,
California can you stay in the Thunderbird Motel (or so we thought at the time -
subsequent travels have shown me that there is at least one Thunderbird Motel in
every western state).
We both slept for eleven hours until the hotel manager called us and asked
"Are you staying or leaving?" We told him we were leaving, packed up, and headed
south toward L.A.
As we drove, the snow capped mountains
eventually gave way to the lower, brush covered, desert hills which in turn gave
way to the flat desolate wasteland of the Mojave Desert. The desert seemed like
it would go on forever but it eventually stopped at the edge of the San Gabriel
Mountain Range that contains Los Angeles to the north. Almost immediately upon
entering the San Gabriel National Forest I could see a haze against the mountain
sides. The smog was feeling through the mountains with smoky tentacles and
searching for me.
Because the road winds so much it takes roughly an hour to travel through the
mountains on the Angeles Crest Highway to L.A. At one point we were high up on a
mountain and could see all the way down in to the valley that cradles the city.
The smog was still there. It was a little bit thinner than when we left, probably
starved by the positive emotions created by people spending the holiday with
their families, but it was still there. It sat at the bottom of the L.A. basin, a
thick grayish-white with brownish tint, like milk curdled at the bottom of a
glass. It was staring up at me and sneering, "I knew you'd be back." This time,
rather than not look at it and speed away, I stared back at it. The smog didn't
move from its arrogant stance but it didn't seem nearly as indomitable as it did
when I left it just four days before. I narrowed my eyes, grinned slightly
without parting my lips and thought:
Yeah, I'm back. But you can't touch me now. I know what the mountains
and sky really look like. You can keep on trying in vain to choke me but I know
I'll still be able to climb Half Dome or any other peak as soon as I leave. You
can bombard me with images of people who have given up but I know it won't happen
to me: I have family and friends in Texas who stay in touch to remind me where I
came from. I'll continue to move up with school, my career or what ever else I
end up doing. As long as I'm moving up, it doesn't matter how far I could fall.
I've got a rope.
I won't look down.
And I have this awesome cow sign.
END
text copyrighted by Phillip Rittmuller, pictures copyrighted by Phillip
Rittmuller and Ken Clausen
I'm no longer at the jpl e-mail address. You can reach me through my webpage where I write under the pen name Adam: http://www.pineapple-girl.com/adam.
-Phillip Rittmuller