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Hanoi, Vietnam

Northern communist-oriented capital city by Amanda Nourse and Glen Weinreb,


Overview

Hanoi is the current capital of Vietnam, and was the capital of North Vietnam during the Vietnam War. Hanoi is considered a communist strong hold, yet as noted in our "Traveling Vietnam" discussion, these communists support free markets, and are therefore closer to European socialists than traditional communists, although as of 2002, they only allow 1 political party.

The "Old Quarter" section of Hanoi is the recommended spot to set up a base camp. It is several blocks from the Hoan Kiem Lake, which marks the center of town. US Senator John McCain landed in this lake when shot down during the Vietnam War. His parachute opened late, he suffered injuries upon impact, and to make things worse, some taxis drivers beat him up after dragging him from the lake since they were mad about US bombing of their utility infrastructure. What would you have done?

Where We Stayed

  • Van Xuan Hotel - There are many good hotels in the Old City section of Hanoi. The Van Xuan offers AC and hot water for $15/double, is a little run down, yet is fine for the price.

Where we Ate

  • The Tamarind Cafe (at 80 Ma May Rd, 20m South of Luong Ngoc Rd) is a terrific American / Asian food restaurant with $4 dinners. They open at 6am and are known for their great breakfasts (e.g. French toast with bananas, fruit smoothies made to order) and their terrific dinners. This spot is run by 2 French women who have an eye for design and a penchant for quality. You would not be disappointed here, other than the premium paid for the additional quality.

What We Did

The Water Puppet Theater, located at the North side of Hoan Kiem Lake, features a world famous puppet show.

Walking around the Hoan Kiem lake is relaxing way to see the town.

Personal Reflections

Amanda: I loved Hanoi!! .We stayed in the "Old Quarter" section of town and it was friendly and cool (temp-wise and hip-wise), with lots of terrific restaurants. One night we went to the Water Puppet Theatre and saw the famous water puppets - (I had wanted to see them since I watched that first video on Vietnam!) - they were absolutely delightful. Not trying to sound cheesy, but that is really the word for them - I was filled with what I can only call delight - like a little kid - my eyes were wide and I had a big smile on my face the whole time, except in the suspenseful moments, when, say, a fisherman was pulled off his boat by a huge magical fish, and then I was on the edge of my seat. There was (live) traditional music accompanying the performance too. It was (as the Brits love to say) just brilliant.

The hotel we stayed at was very friendly - when we arrived the guy ran out and shook my hand and the woman gave me a huge hug. This incredibly warm welcome was sort of surprising because I had read in the LP guidebook that the people in the North are "more reserved" than the people in the South.

One day we walked into an art gallery. There were modern Vietnamese painters' works in there and they were wonderful. We tend to think of Vietnam as 'third world', but they have an incredibly developed culture, with art, music, literature, and theater. Really fine stuff.

Glenn: Our hotel was owned by the gov't and is therefore obligated to buy from other gov't run shops at low prices. An example of where this leads to problems is shown to the right. This toilet paper holder uses two vertical plastic side supports with close to no strength, and a springy plastic inner roller that lost its ability to spring back long ago. If an engineer designed this in the USA, he would be fired. If a company in the USA manufactured this, no one would buy it, and the company would be the laughing stock of their industry. Also shown is a 50% oversized step at the top of this stairwell which is hazardous if one is not paying attention. Since many suppliers are subsidized by the gov't, they are in affect monopolies, and can therefore deliver horrible quality with few repercussions. In a non-monopoly scenario, if a supplier is bad, buyers go elsewhere, forcing suppliers to get their act together. In the case of this step, there may have been one gov't building manufacturer that cuts corners, sometimes literally, to make buildings Quickly (i.e. they are judged by the number of buildings they build per sum of money, as opposed to Quality, which is more difficult to quantify).



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Readers' Comments


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Anh Tran , February 05, 2003; 10:14 A.M.

I am glad that you have visited Vietnam. However in Hanoi section, I have to tell that this is the worst traveling article section I have ever read. Guys, This is Photo.net and this Hanoi review section has no good travel photos but try to show the poverty of Hanoi, where are the beautiful view of Old Hanoi, Hoan Kiem lake and nice, hospital people overthere? What is the point in the opening when you stated that John McCain was beat up by TAXI driver while he was wounded? There is no TAXI during the war time in Hanoi, Taxi only existed around 1990's, so there are no TAXI drivers there to beat up Mr.McCain. About Glenn's overview, you should understand that this is 2002-2003 and Vietnam is opened-market long time ago. There is no obligated to buy the cheap stuffs from Govn. the problem you have in your hotel is very common in the low price hotel. and the paper tower holder that you spent many boring lines for the demand-supply lesson, is made in CHINA, which million American house-holds are using today. I laughed outloud when you tried to point out the Vietnamese engineers are so stupid that they couldn't design the toilet paper holder.The problem you got is just because the holder is old, out of order, it can happen here in US if your paper holder is old enough and out of order too. I am using one at home(in US) with the same style with the one you described in Hanoi. It's just that so simple. :-D

About the oversize step, this is a fun part of the review, you can fell and in danger and hurt yourseft anywhere if you don't pay attention, you are not simply in danger because of Vietnamese oversize step. Just give you some history about the oversize step, there is a ancient tradition about stair step in Vietnam. the steps are represented as the lucky charm, they count from the first step as Living, the second step is Oldness, the third step is Sickness and the fourth step is Death. then when they reach to the fifth step they count back as the first step as Living , the 6th is Oldness and so on. The counting ends when you reach to the end of the stairwell. The rule is always the final step have to fall into LIVING. so the size of final step is double the size of all other steps because if they create 2 normal size steps then final step will fall into OLDNESS or DEATH , that's why instead of 2 nomral size they make 1 big final step so that the final step will be LIVING which is lucky. you can see oversize final step in many many houses because of above LIVING reason.

Hope that you have more generous opinion about VIETNAM. not just "poor communist-oriented country".

Peter Stibal , February 07, 2004; 09:56 P.M.

I would like to congratulate Anh Tran's comments on your article about Hanoi. Learn the facts and history before commenting. If you loved the place so much why dwell on such trivial issues as a toilet paper holder design or a big step. If I were only to write about substandard utilities and services I've encountered, I would need a few spare years. I live in the west and could criticise many products designs that are appaling. I have travelled the world extensively and in many third world countrys. Seen poverty and corruption. Communism or no communism. The reason I enjoy it so much is to discover the different, the weird, the unusuall and the wonderful. Accept it and become a little more enlightened. I travelled through north Vietnam in 2000 and loved it all. And unlike you wasn't surprised by the friendliness of the north Vietnamese. I live amongst many of them in probably the most multicultural country in the world. Australia. People are people where ever you go!.

Linh Viet , August 03, 2006; 02:38 P.M.

Hanoi has absolutely nothing to offer to tourist:

1) There traditional "pho" tasted like dish washing water and ruber band. 2) Hanoian "digging" tourist for "American dollars" while they delivering "anti American propaganda" on the loud speakers at every street conner every morning. 3) Hanoi atmosphere is badly poluted with human's waste as Hanoian urinating and shiting on the street right in front of tourist. 4) Hanoi girl making love publically in city parks including tourist attraction area like "Sword Lake", "West Lake". 5) Famous entertainments in Hanoi are: Ho Chi Minh Grave (who murdered millions Vietnamese), Water Pupet Show like what I used to play in grade school, and Karaoke with a bunch of cheap prostitude. 6) Hanoi girls are smelt very bad with strong odor as they rarely take shower because running water in Hanoi is only supplying for "high class communist officers" 7) I wouldn't even want to waste a penny to return to Hanoi.

Hung Pham , August 05, 2006; 10:13 A.M.

Hanoi has always been one of my favorite destinations in Vietnam. It is a very charming city with many lakes and tree-lined boulevards. A visit to Vietnam would not be complete if you don't come to Hanoi. To Linh Viet: your comments stink and they show what kind of person you are: a fanatic anti-communist AND anti-Vietnam. Such hatred for Hanoi and its people has no place here, and as a matter of fact, anywhere on earth. Shame on you!

thanh dao , September 11, 2009; 02:15 P.M.


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Yeah, Viet Congs could have murdered million of innocent Viet people and condemned Viet Nam to the cesspool through the teaching of Marx, Lenin, Stalin and Mao. But as a Vietnamese we should not criticize them. Well the reason is that commies don't like criticism, even the lightest one!


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