8mm Film to DVD transfer (Do it yourself)

I assume you mean you have a 8mm camcorder that you want to transfer to computer? If so this is what I do. I have a ATI video card that has a video in port that I plug in my camcorder to and capture the movie. Depending on the quality you save it as determines the size of the file. There are many video cards that can do this and mine was only around $50.00. I dont have a DVD burner yet so I am still burning my home movies to CD

There are several ways to go about transferring 8mm, super 8mm, 16mm, etc. to digital, and ultimately to DVD if that's your goal. You asked about 8mm, so I'll just answer for 8mm.

Elmo used to make an 8mm telecine transfer machine. They show up on ebeigh from time to time. They usually sell for $1500 to $2000. You run the film just like in a normal projector. The machine projects the film onto a ccd cell, and the output is typical VHS quality output. You can feed this just like a live TV broadcast into something like the Phillips DVD burner that has recently come available, but the quality won't be very high (typically around 250 to 300 lines per picture). The Elmo units have a frame per second and shutter blade combination that synchs the film to the TV signal. The closest easy synch for 8mm is to run it at 20 fps with a 3 blade shutter, but I don't know for sure that this is what the Elmo unit does.

Goko used to make a Telecine Player model TC-20. There are 8mm and Super 8mm models. You can pick these up on ebeigh too. They usually sell for $1000 to $1400. The Goko units are also similar to projectors, but instead of projecting the image onto a ccd cell, they project the image so that it appears to be floating in air inside the machine. You use your own video camera to capture the image by alligning it with a little window on the back of the TC-20. The interesting thing about the Goko units is that they use a 24 facet prism as part of their projection system, and for some reason they will synch with the TV at any speed. The range of speeds on the unit is typically from about 16 fps to about 24 fps. If you use the Goko approach, you can get a 3ccd cell camera, like the Canon GL1, XL-1s, or similar, and you can then get a digital file that you can run into your computer via the fire wire port. Resolution for miniDV is about 500 to 525 lines per picture. It holds up pretty well, even on a 54" TV. The Goko units are still supported in the US, so if repairs are needed, there is a place to send them. If your Goko and camera are properly adjusted and properly lined up, you can get very high quality by this approach.

Another approach is to use an 8mm projector with an adjustable speed control. If the unit has a 3 blade shutter and you can adjust it to run at 20 fps, you can synch with the TV. Normal 8mm projection speed is 18 fps, so this is only a 10% difference, and it isn't noticable to most viewers if there's no audio to deal with. You project the image onto either a telecine transfer box (mirror and ground glass), or onto a white screen, and you capture the image with your digital camcorder, like with the Goko unit. You typically project the image to a size of maybe 4" or 5" square. With the high quality digital camcorders, if you use the ground glass approach, resolution can be high enough to show the ground glass texture, so some people prefer to forget the telecine transfer box and just project onto a clean white sheet. If you're using the telecine transfer box, your camera will be at an angle of approximately 90% to your projection. If you used the clean white sheet approach, your camera will be located very close to the axis of the projector lens.

If you are interested in this general area, you can go to Google and do a search using the key word "telecine." There is another method that I have not used that involves frame by frame capture using a specialized set up that is being sold over the internet. I haven't looked at it recently, and I've never tried their gear. They are very negative about the Elmo and Goko methods in their literature - but my experience with the Goko is that the negative hype that this guy publishes is based on the results you get when your Goko lamp and camera are misalligned. The web page where this method is discussed is at http://www.moviestuff.tv/8mm_telecine.html.

FWIW, I would pass on the Elmo telecine transfer units just because of the modest resolution. The video camera chip in these units is about 15 year old technology. My prefered method is via a 3ccd mini DV camcorder and either the Goko or the variable speed projector. You can get good results with either method. The one thing to watch out for is that most of the folks who are selling projectors on ebeigh seem to be overly optimistic about the functionality of their unit. These old projectors can eat the film and ruin your stuff pretty quickly. It is for this reason that I finally settled on the Goko TC-20 for my own 8mm film to DVD transfers.

If you would like to transer your old V8 or Hi8 tapes in DV formate to computer, the best way is to get a Digital8 camcorder. Sony D8 backward support V8 and Hi8, so you can just simply insert the V8/Hi8 tapes into the D8 camcorder, then transer them to computer in DV format through firewire cable. The price of cheapest Sony D8 is about US$500. If you are interested in buying a analog-digital converter to connect your Hi8 and PC, you can try Sony D8 video walkman for US$600. Of course, you also can buy a univeral analog-digital converter to convert RCA/S-VHS signal from you V8 to DV format like Dazzle's Hollywood DV-Bridge for US$300. However, the video qulity will not be as good as the other two.

Just a quick note that I saw a different piece of equipment that was touted as being better than the Goko. Here is the web address: http://www.moviestuff.tv/8mm_telecine.html The equipment to do it was only $700. You need a camcorder to record the video though, but I assume you have one. Not a bad price considering how expensive it is to have a company do it for you. I have not used it but am looking into getting one as a possibility.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1946122152 I'm selling a GOKO TC-20 R8

However, a variable speed projector slowed down a little from 16fps to 15 fps does just fine and is quite easy if you have a rear projection screen.

If we speed up the film how will that effect super 8 sound?

how does the Goko unit work with sound? I see a ds-20 on ebay

thanks

I worked transferring home movies to video for about 18 years, about 8 years in my own business (now out of the business). This is my opinion about these issues.

I tried many types of projectors, but ended up only using Goko Tc-301s and Tc-302s. These projectors replaced the Goko Tc-20s and are far, FAR, FAAAR superior in image quality. This is understandable because the Tc-20s were based on a cheap revolving prism just like a low end consumer film viewer. Every time the corner of the prism went by you would get a little "pull" in the picture. This pull as the edge goes by 18 or 20 times a second can be noticed in any film viewer, and in transfers made with the Tc-20s. I suffered with these sh#tty machines for two years in the mid eighties before the TC 300 series replaced them. The image in the Tc20s was also not very bright cause the light had to go through the entire prism (about 3 inches thick).

We were getting a lot of complaints with the tc20s and the new units really saved us. No more complaints after the 300 series came on.

Goko never really overcame the bad rep for consumerish quality generated by these early machines. I'm amazed that people are actually buying them still. I can't believe the prices people are paying for these things. They're just crappy modified viewers.

The Tc301s and Tc302s on the other hand are typical telecine projectors with aerial imaging systems (no screen, just like the Tc20s) and they run at 20 fps (with almost no flicker and much brighter images than the TC-20s). In order to handle super 8 sound at this speed (the chipmunk effect) you need a pitch adjusting device like a digital pitchtraq. Speed issues aside these projectors were for me real workhorses and I was very successful for many years using them. They almost never break. Just don't let the tail end of the film go through the gate at the end of the roll as this sometimes results in bent film claws.

Elmo made very good telecine projectors but the transvideo (built in camera) units had horrible quality ccds, even for their day. The units without the built in camera are far superior.

Don't waste your money on Goko Tc-20s or Elmo Transvideos. Buy Tc301s (reg 8) or Tc302s (super 8) or regular Elmo telecine projectors (not transvideo).

Just my two cents, hope it helps someone.

I recently started to explore this as my mother-in-law has a bunch of old Super 8mm film that she was wanting to transfer onto DVD. I use a decently old Sony Digital Handycam DCR-TRV315 with a DV (firewire) port. There is a setting with this camcorder to where you can record the projected film with little to no flicker. I used the Program button on it and just kept pressing the switch/select button until the flicker went away. I have to looke at the manual for what it is exactly, but looks like an alien space ship icon ... :-P. I use a Canon Cine S-400 projector to a white board about 2 feet away. With just the right settings, the film transfered nice. Decent enough to put on DVD. I'm exploring with lighting, exposure settings and distance before I'm happy. I transfered a few to DVD ... well, VCD format since they are the 3" (3.5 min) films ... so practice will be perfect.

I've been copying reg 8 and super 8 and super 8 sound movies to VHS for several years using Bell and Howell autoload projectors using DJL bulbs (150w) , a piece of white stationary taped to a black music stand, and a Panasonic PV 800 full size VHS camcorder.

Today, I cleaned all lenses and was surprised at how dirty they had become. A friend turned me on to other sources of paper to project the image on. All white paper is not equal and I had no idea the copier paper / printing paper had a Whiteness Number -

My friend gave me a piece of white printer paper with a 92 number and when I compared it to what I had been using, I was quite surprised and pleased and just how much whiter the paper was. He told me that it comes up to a # 99 number - which I'm going to try and find. I know that the # 92 paper will give me a much better picture. It was such a difference, you'd think I'd put a new bulb in the projector !

I plan on obtaining a MiniDV camcorder in the near future for a higher quality picture. My setup gives me very good pictures from very good film. I'm surprised at the quality of reg. 8mm films shot outdoors from the 60's. I'm not so happy with the look of Super 8mm sound films shown on my sound projector. I have a Super 8 silent projector that gets a sharper image than the sound one. I think the zoom projection lense may be part of the problem. I'm going to look for a fixed lense for the B&H 626R projector. It has a 1" barrel facing the apeture with a groove around it.

I've copied many 16mm films with the setup and I'm very happy with the end results - even on VHS ! Good lighting and good photographing skills make all the difference in home movies. I just did a 94 film job of Super 8mm sound and it was horrible. Every scene was improperly focused. Every zoom was out of focus, the lighting was deplorable - only the sound saved the project. But, it earned me $5 per film just the same.

I think that people who order VHS copies of their home movies are glad to see ANY picture from their old films. Quality seems to take back seat to the CONTENT of the films. I've yet had a complaint regarding my film transfers to VHS. And, some have been transferred from VHS to DVD - the 94 film job was. Someone else did the DVD for the client.

I'm a retired Audio recording engineer having worked in Nashville area studios since l968, and prior to that worked at KING Records in Cincinatti, and Criteria Recording in Miami.

Email me directly if I can be of help. Leehazen@aol.com Hendersonville, TN

Eugene, A true scanning device will set you back at least $1500 USD. The Workprinter by Moviestuff.tv is an example. We tend to feel that all the advice about Goko and other less capable things such as Buhl or a Laird multiplexer is a bit mythical since they are as rare as hens teeth. No matter what device you try to obtain or do get you need to be aware of a few things as none of it is straight forward or simple as some make out and the results may satisfy those who think they have a great set up using VHS systmes. VHS systems are fine on most PC's however if using DV you better look at the expense involved for RAID and a decent CPU and high end video card. If you have a small amount of film take it to a pro for scanning, they know what they are doing and have ALL of the gear and software that works and the know how to give you a great result. Nothing is simple and requires not only hardware and MONEY, but knowledge skill and ability, why? you have only started to look at the sharp end of the stick, there is so much more to it than instamatic point and shoot including videoscope analysis colour balance since film is so different from video, then there is contrast range, saturation and authoring a DVD seems simple, but with film, frame rate and camera capability is just part of the equation. I could go on but I really think I have said a lot. If you are looking for the challange and satisfaction of doing it your self be warned the learning curve is steep, some get lucky and obtain acceptable results. it is rewarding and very stimulating challenge.

Good luck

Jonathon

The usual DIY way (note, the projector is ideally variable speed, adjust the speed knob until flicker is gone). Keep the camera and projector as close to eachother as possible, do your transfers in a room that is dark.

BTW, Clean your film with something like Film Guard and a soft cloth, also lube the projector with Film Guard, as it is a good lubricant as well. Ebay has Film Guard or similar movie film lubricating/cleaing fluids.

A good film cleaner is Filmrenew. It is sold by Urbanskifilm online at urbanskifilm.com. The best results are from a telecine using an aerial image. Aerial images are sharper with better color than projection on a white card or using those boxes with the mirror and frosted glass screen. A good unit is the Cinemate20 manufactured by Moviestuff. I use this unit in my film transfer business.

Thanks for the tip on Filmrenew. You are right, aerial image is probably better than the paper matte screen, but aerial image units are difficult to find, although possibly you can rig one up using a 5" magnifier and using a video camera that has at least 12X zoom. The white paper, while not ideal, works quite well. And it's just more fun to DIY than to have someone else do it.

Is it possible to loop the signal from the camcorder into a computer thru firewire at the same time that you're recording the film transfer?

We use a piece of equipment from moviestuff. Heare are some sample images of captured 8mm film. We are very pleased with the frame by frame capture method. Thanks for looking. Dave Stoneburner

I made the unfortunate decision to pay over $600 to have my 8mm movies transferred to DVD by Film-To-Video.com / Film-To-DVD.com. Their manager, Carol, demonstrated the most astounding rudeness that I have ever experienced. Indeed, she was so shockingly ill-mannered that the only place I can imagine such behavior going unnoticed is in New York City. Lack of professionalism aside, the quality of the finished product was no better than what I could have obtained locally for a fraction of the price (and without being subjected to anyone?s appalling lack of manners). Buyer beware. B. J. Lowe, Phoenix

Well it's been four years since I started this popular thread. I went on to start a successful film transfer business based on some of the input I received - so much appreciated to everybody that helped along the way. While I would wish the best of luck to anyone that attempts to take on this project themselves, much like I did, there's several caveats. I've compared my quality over the years to different film transfer techniques, including the old Elmo and Goko machines and the new Workprinter machines with high-definition optics. Everytime we would upgrade the quality would get better and better, and I would start to wonder - how many people out their have VHS, MiniDV, or DVD versions of their 8mm/S8mm/16mm films and are content with their quality. A lot of companies that offer these services (with below par equipment) bias the public into thinking that due to the age of their film, the quality is not good to begin with. That's how I thought until I saw what a good high-definition transfer can offer. The colors are subtle and true, the focus is pixel perfect, and the 1080p resolution makes you feel like you're back in the decade that the film was shot. I'm not saying to go with my company over any other, but I just want people that have their films transferred to know just how beautiful their digital version can be if done properly. So to anybody that has transferred their films or is thinking about transferring their films, be sure to store the originals well, in dry, cold conditions. As technology evolves, you will still have the victor over the question of time and quality: 8mm, super 8mm, and 16mm film.

I read Jose T's comments about a home telecine with the website of www.saveyourmovies.com, but when I went there it would not open. Does someone know what the correct website is? It purports to use a digital video camer and a computer and gives good quality. John

I googled goko tc-301s and could not find a source to but one. Does anyone know where to get a new or used one? Thanks, Alan

Oh my gosh you guys are complicating this way too much, I did this for my grandmother the other day. I took all of her 8mm tapes, and made them in to dvd's in a 1,2,3. And you dont even need a Computer to do this. Okay, first all you need is a VCR, which probably everyone has in a closet somewhere, a VHS tape from the 99 cent store, A TV, a DVD R/W, a couple of blank DVDs, oh and your old 8mm camcorder. Although it takes a few steps, its super easy to do. *First connect your VCR to your TV, place a blank VHS in to the VCR. *Take your 8mm tape, place it in your camcorder. *Take the AV in and out, and connect it to your camcorder and the other end to your VCR, (make sure you have your VCR NOT set on LP, because of picture quality) *Turn on VCR (Make sure you fastforward a little of the blank tape, just about 3 secs, you dont want any thing to get cut off) *Turn on your camcorder(Make sure your 8mm tape is completely rewinded) *Press RECORD On the VCR, Press PLAY on the Camcorder. *Now go get a bowl of chips and sit with your family to watch the home movies. (Aaaa, memories) *After youre done watching or done doing something else, Stop the camcorder, and turn it off. Take your, VHS and Rewind it. *Leave the VHS in the VCR. This time place your blank DVD in the DVD player, and Record, every thing off the VHS. THE END. ***If you also want, you can also, Connect your Camcorder to the DVD R/W.

Hi, Dude, you misunderstood the topic here, the question was about Transferring 8mm Film to DVD, not the modern 8mm video TAPE, again you could go to: http://canaanmedia.com/16mm-film-transfer-8mm-film-to-DVD.htm to see what a 8mm film should look like.

I just had some early 1960's 8mm film transferred to DVD. I used the YesVideo service at Ritz camera. While the DVD is very nice, there does not seem to be any way of importing the files into IMovie or any other Macintosh movie editing program. Any suggestions?

Very dramatic and novel length ad there, Philip. That is one piece of literary work there. I also noticed how after I posted how to DO IT YOURSELF which is what this thread is about, all of these fly-by night transfer services (no offense intended) started coming out of the woodwork like lawyers chasing an ambulance. See, I can type dramatic pablum too. Fly by night you say? Yeah, check out the post by "jose t" and go to the website. Some sort of website is there, but the transfer biz isn't.

First Rule Of Marketing : What you already have is unsatisfactory.

Suck on this:

Tired of paying to have transfers done? Annoyed by marketers trying to bilk you for something you can do yourself? Insulted by their insinuations that you the customer are too stupid to do it correctly? BOTHERED BY THE THOUGHT OF MAILING YOUR PRECIOUS AND IRREPLACEABLE FILMS THROUGH THE MAIL? Afraid that the fly-by-night company may lose your films if the mail doesn't? Well then DO IT YOURSELF! The info is in cyberspace, so you can look up how to do it, but only between 12 am - 12 pm, every day of the week, every week of the year, every year until your demise. Not only that, but you can do your own transfers MANY different ways, learn about video equipment, optics and when you are done you can feel a sense of accomplishment that you would never get from risking losing them in the mail or getting lost when the fly by night business goes out of business. Cost is up to you, time is whenever you feel like it, and you get total control over the process! You can even use FREE software like VIRTUALDUB to clean up and edit your transfers if you chose to record them via computer.

always try and do it yourself. research the internet and take your time. the Retired Film Guys

The point of this forum is to 'do it yourself' but the point that comes up again and again here is that why reinvent the wheel people. Sure, have a go, but ruin your film in the process with a crappy old projector like I did, spend a small fortune and immense time and dire frustration with unsatisfactory results. Do your research on companies, don't just take there word for it on websites, spend a few bucks on a sample transfer, compare the results of what you are getting, with that, you will get a feel for not only quality of transfer, but quality of customer service, turn around time etc, then work a deal, if you have quantity, ask for discounts, free copies etc.

Sure, some people have to mail, but with fedex/ups, it's old school ignorance to think that technology & tracking capabilities haven't far surpassed risk. The odds are far greater of your car blowing up on the way to the UPS store than them losing it. You either mail them or let them rot in the closet.

As for the lengthy reply of 'Philip' above, that shows passion and a belief in what he and his company achieves, not 'fly by night' Sure, companies come and go, do your research before you use any company. We all have passion, passion for preserving our memories and getting the best quality and service.

Whether its done "in house' or "do it yourself" one has to deal with rotten dried out film splices. Lets say you have a "Europe Trip" from 1963 shot with regular 8mm; the complete movie might be on a 500ft reel; the work of say 2 dozen or more rolls shots; with 50% + editing. Its easy to have 100 splices; the bulk of the splices done in 1963/4. The darn movie might have last been shown/projected in the 1970's or 1980's. Now Mom and Dad pass away and the kids want the "Europe Trip" vacation movie they all thought was boring on a DVD. The mvie reels might have never been projected for several decades, have been stored in the basement in a shoebox, the box being wet once when the sump pump failed. The "in house' or "do it yourself" convertor has to deal with a long movie that might be stuck together, that every 5th splice fails. The project then evolves into converting a dozen or two segments.:) A real poor movie reel to convert is going to take more time. DIY for conversions is over 1/2 century old; its in the "how to" collumns in Pop Photo back in the 1950's. Then folks were often converting to another film format; later in the late 1970's converting to Beta tapes evolved; then VHS tape; now its to a DVD.

I'm DIY-ing it and having something like results. I have several large reels of Regular 8 and Super 8 that I've managed to collect over the years. I found them at thrift stores and yard sales and have no idea who the people in the films are, but they made some great films! So, with a 2400 optical dpi flatbed transparency scanner, vcr parts, a PC dedicated to the task, and automation software, I present the following:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=s3YsPZGC1-U

Automating image processing tasks can be challenging. I'm trying to teach my computer to find the sprocket holes and grab each frame. About 8000 in a 50 foot reel. A very slow, painful process, but it seems to work. A vacation at Gitmo might be more fun.

I've updated the link to view my sample:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij0Bh18kDkM

Just abit of semi-perfectionist tweaking.

That was a lot of fun to watch, Ken!! I don't understand how you did it, but it's very interesting. Are you saying that you scanned the film frame by frame, then used some sort of animation software to make it play again? Cool. I have a scanner that can do that, but it seems to me that it would be a very, very long process!

I started a VHS, slides, and photos to DVD business about 2 years ago. I'm constantly being asked if I put 8mm or Super 8 on DVD. (No one in my area does it, and, sorry, but people just don't want to send their films out by mail or carrier. Too many things can and have happened to them.)

As a result, I decided to bite the bullet and add that service. Since I've actually never done it (but have a lot of other experience with film and with transferring other things to DVD, I have been doing a lot of research on what method I should use, the costs, the ease of transfer, etc.

I've finally decided to go with one of the moviestuff's machine. I'll probably start with the less expensive and as my business grows, I'll upgrade as Eugene Gekhter, the originator of this thread, has done. The reason I've decided to go with moviestuff is because I've read a lot of forums with people talking to each other about the machines and I've never read or heard one negative thing about his machines (except that you have to wait a while to get one)... also, from what I read, he is very supportive and very nice--even walks people through repairs (his machines can be repaired with parts at radio shack) and helps people learn how to use the machines....I can use that sort of support starting out. I'm really excited about providing this service in my area and learning how to do this....and of course, my family has its own movies from the 60s that need to be saved, so my first "batch" while I learn will be ours....then for Christmas Gifts to everyone, I'll be making the DVDs!

I wouldn't recommend someone who is just going to DIY their own films to spend a lot of money on a moviestuff machine, because they are expensive, but I think that for a small business such as mine, they are an excellent product with excellent support...in any case after I get mine, I'll let you all know how it goes.

For DJ Gibbs. I am curious if you are happy with your decision to buy moviestuff's machine. I am thinking about it. Want to check with you. Appreicate your reply.

I just wrote a short 'how to' article on how I transferred my 8mm to DVD. But I sent it out to have it done -- the DIY route was too expensive and not as good quality as I wanted.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4705008_transfer-mm-dvd.html

Bryan

Hi guys, just thought I'd post an update on my progress making frame-by frame digital transfers of 8mm movies using a flatbed scanner and home computer. I'm moving up to Hi Def, which seems like overkill since 8mm film comes nowhere close to HD resolution, but that's the hot thing these days. It's still a slow process, but it works. Total investment: maybe a couple hundred bucks, plus 50 cents.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nE8KXvTu-0

Investors, anyone?

I enjoy reading your posts. I find them informative and educational. I'm taking on a project of transferring 8mm & super 8mm, this is a first for me. Any recommendations on dual film editors, any I should stay away from? Also, where is the best place to purchase Film Guard?
Many thanks.

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my post when I asked for recommendations on dual film editors. I am NOT looking for someone to do the work for me because as I stated, "I'm taking on the project of transfering ..." I'm asking for recommendations for a machine called a, DUAL FILM EDITOR that is used for editoring 8mm and super 8mm. To reiterate, I am NOT looking for a company or individual to transfer my film, I'm asking for recommendations and suggestions on how, " I can personally transfer the film."
Thank you.

Go to http://www.moviestuff.tv They sell some fantastic equipment at reasonable prices. I bought their Cinemate. I've been extremely busy with other aspects of my business, but I will be adding 8mm and super8 transfers to DVD services by the end of the month to my DVD business. The Cinemate does both for me, and the results are "shake free" and quite clean and remarkable. I think that the Cinemate will give you the best bang for you buck--and you might even end up with a little "cottage business"on the side for extra money!

Howdy everyone,

The photo.net forums are not to be used as some sort of "free advertising" location for you to push your business. I hav egone through this thread and deleted all of the ads and all the suggestions that came from users who just "happened" to only have one post to their name on photo.net and that post just "happened" to be suggesting somewhere to spend your money.

Suggestions of professional services from active members are welcome. Word of mouth is the best way to find good service providers. But using the forums for advertising is a violation of the site's rules and is an annoying insult to the site's members.

I have found that using my dry erase board at a distance and slight angle higher than my projector works amazing. I use my JVC Everio GZ-MG255U hard disc camcorder with a shutter setting of 1/15 to capture the home movies with firewire to my computer's hard drive and my projector is angled up very little the results have been nice rich color, and a really nice clear picture.

After many attempts at transferring 8mm film to digital media and not being quite satisfied with the results, I believe I have hit on the most cost effective manner to perform what is essentially a frame-by frame transfer, and it is surprisingly simple. I purchased a dual Super8mm/8mm projector on ebay which is capable of projecting in a “step” mode (2 frames per second). My particular model is a Bell&Howell 471A but there are a lot of different projectors out there which will do the same. I paid $70. I then purchased a stop motion software package (StopMotion Maker HDMI) which is capable of time lapse capture from a firewire device and hooked my Panasonic PGVS-120 camcorder to my PC. I removed the tape cassette and plug in the camera to AC which makes the camera work similar to a web cam.

If you project the film onto a white surface at 2 fps and then activate the time lapse capture at 500 msec (0.5 sec), the stop motion software captures one digital frame for each frame projected. The stop-motion software reassembles the captured frames into an AVI motion picture and, Voila- you have a frame by frame transfer.

There are some limitations in that the AVI format used by my software limits the AVI file size to 2GB which translates to roughly 2000 frames at NTSC resolution. This means you will have 3-4 separate AVI files for each 50 foot roll of 8mm film, and the transfer does take time and patience. However, once the AVI files are edited and converted to MPEG in your favorite editing software, the results are noticeably superior to a camcorder capture of the film running at normal speed. Also, having many small AVI files to work with can be an advantage in some editing software packages when it comes to applying filters and enhancements.

Best of all, if you have the hard disk space, you can maintain the uncompressed AVI files so that is you ever need to re-edit the films for a new DVD presentation you will not be working with a compressed MPEG file.

Anyway, it works well for me. And it only cost $140 for the projector and the stop-motion software (plus a lot of free time on several weekends)

Phil, that is essentially what the fancy pants telecine machines do. Only for a lot more money (and in better quality most likely).

Dwayne's photo will transfer 8mm and Super 8 to DVD for $9.00 for a 50 foot roll.

My plan was to project onto a smooth white surface, project the film onto it. Then place a digital video camera in front of the projector, frame in and focus on the projected image. And capture directly to hard drive with firewire. I use a Panasonic PVGS-65 with Sony Vegas 6 software. My B&H projector was re-worked to sync with the video. I don't have a line running through it but the image pulses. Except for that last bit, the procedure that many others have followed works. Any idea why the pulse?

In the DIY category, see the link below for an interesting article where the author uses a flatbed scanner to capture 7.7" of film at a pass and then stitches them back together with a computer. He says it takes 2 hours to process a 150' roll of film.
He also includes some good background information on the process of digitizing old film.
http://www.linuxjournal.com/article/10373

Why not transfer from VHS to blank dvd with dvd recorder?

We're talking about 8mm FILM that runs through a projector. Not VHS tapes.

When you say film do you mean what is called Hi-8 that is used in camcorders? If not, does anyone know the best way to transfer 8 mm (Hi8) to a dvd other than transferred to a video and then to a dvd. I'd do that but because of the one transfer it will lose some of it's quality. Any way you to do it directly from the camcorder/hi 8mm film to a dvd or directly to a computer where I can then burn it?

No--we are talking about the old film that ran through a projector--8mm and super8. Through a projector--like this:
http://www.bolexcollector.com/images/projectors/185_1.jpg
There are several ways to transfer Hi-8. I have a Sony multi-function DVD recorder. I simply hook up the Hi-8 camcorder (or any other camcorder or camera) to it and play the tape I want recorded and the DVD recorder does the rest. This machine has made my business more money than anything else I've done so far because it is so easy and does such a great job. I use printable discs so I can print images onto the DVDs. The machine I use is this:
http://dvdvideoburner.com/images/sony-vrdmc5-dvdirect-dvd-recorder.jpg

I have been experimenting with copying 16mm films to DVD using my sony handicam DVD108 camcorder. The challenge I have had may be the "flicker"mentioned elsewhere in this forum. The projected image is fine. When recorded with the camcorder I get periodic "blackouts." If I adjust the film speed, I can minimize the speed at which these occur to some extent, but I cannot get rid of them. I am supposing that these are the result of some sort of pattern based on the projection speed and the camcorder recording speed. I can only adjust the projection speed so much...or the image begins to look like a Keystone Cops movie (which, hey, I enjoy but perhaps is not a good way of archiving the rare family footage). My questions are:
1. Is this the "flicker" that has been mentioned?
2. Is there a camcorder option that allows for the speed to be adjusted?
3. Is this a problem with all projectors, or is my projector the problem?
I would love to be able to send the films out to be done. There are no funds available to do that.

Thanks for the years of wonderful info in this thread!
As to the 'flicker question', it may be the shutter speed setting on your camera that's to blame. This from the Cinemate 8mm site;
Your camera must have the ability to lock the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second for NTSC or 1/50th of a second for PAL or you will get flicker.

Here is all the information you need below that will give you everything you need.
Film transfer equipment videos:
Super 8, Regular 8: http://www.blip.tv/file/2381157
Super 8 Sound: http://blip.tv/file/2380247
16mm : http://blip.tv/file/2396753
Sample transfer.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1069952628252

http://www.howtotransfer8mmfilmtodvd.com/8mm-movie-film.html

I' m sure you can get the answer from this website,because it has particular introduction to various of DVD transfers,such as Plato dvd transfer,ImTOO DVD transfer.Hope it can help you to work through:)
http://www.dvd-creators.net/dvd-creation-tools.html

hi everyone.
i have a diy setup for 8mm transfer that's almost identical to philips post:
http://www.blip.tv/file/2381157
the only thing i'm missing is the camera.
i would like a recommendation for an inexpensive camera that will take still pictures in HD quality.
I don't want a video camera as I will be doing a single frame by frame capture similar to ken does on his flatbed scanner.
any ideas?

Hi Everyone - Can anyone recomend an easy to use free High Definition video editing software? I have recorded some 8mm film with a Sony HD SR12 camera and wish to add a soundtrack and perhaps experiment with altering contrast, colour etc.

DIY Guide, http://web.archive.org/web/20080405015930/homepage.mac.com/onsuper8/diytelecine/

I have some 8mm film that i am trying to project. I borrowed a sears easi-load super eight to play them. But i believe the film was shot with a bell and howell camera. Was the film back them proprietary? Because it plays fine, but is upside down. I believe i am loading it correctly for the sears projector. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Although I'm a novice when it comes to 8mm film transfer, one thing I'm certain of, is the reason your film shows upside down in the projector; because it's backwards. What you think is the beginning is actually the end of the film and vise-versa. You'll need to rewind the film. You mentioned 8mm film and super 8mm projector, unless your projector is dual 8mm, hold off viewing it on the projector because you can damage your film. Visit this web site, http://www.goaggressive.com/8mmFAQ.html it's informative, easy to understand and you'll learn something. Please let me know how your transfer goes, I'm still learning. Good luck.